Discontinued ThermoVape

jambandphan03

in flavor country
Gouda and Tasty!! Couch tour rocks!! Get to jam out and do vape hits w/ my T1 with out the shake down...

You can watch it too on Iclips for a fee...
 
jambandphan03,

darkrom

Great Scott!
This is out of thermovapes control but its worth posting, choose the USPS shipping over the damn fedex shipping. I don't know what the hell made me choose fedex by accident. My friend in town ordered a package the day after I ordered mine. He's had his for a few days now and mine went from scheduled for the 10th to the 11th all of a sudden. I ordered on the 3rd. 8 days is quite a bit of time for a 1.2lb package that I paid pretty high shipping costs for. Not to mention that 5 times out of 7 (real statistics for me) my Fedex packages have arrived broken or not at all, generally with them telling me to suck it.

I know this is a thermovape thread not a complain about shipping thread, but for anyone considering ordering this go USPS or UPS or even carrier pigeon, but avoid Fedex. Why I ended up picking that by accident I can't be sure, but I'm really kicking myself in the ass right now.
 
darkrom,

Bart

Well-Known Member
I feel your pain. Ordered on the 5th. Hit FedEx and est delivery on th 11th. Ouch.
Last order took 3 days USPS.
I'll be practicing patience for a few more days.
Thank god I have an evo while I wait on my t1
 
Bart,

darkrom

Great Scott!
Glad its not just me. The worst part is the difference between USPS and FedEx was under $1 for me. I simply chose poorly. I don't understand how fedex can even stay in business if their service everywhere is as bad as here.
 
darkrom,

Bart

Well-Known Member
Mine was only pennies. I actually expected it to be quicker. Got tracking number later that day and oh well. I know better now. Definatly not my last order. Might even get in on this sale again.
Gotta give tv credit. They gave it to FedEx same day. It's FedEx that can't move it quick
 
Bart,
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Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Hey guys, have been pondering an idea on the slider thumb pad. Seems quiet in here so thought a good time to throw this in. I finially found the search phrase to get close the what might just be a pretty good solution. Looks like quite a bit of searching might be needed and maybe some others helping might hit the "right fit" for the job.
If you search the term "super arc magnet" and view images only, you will quickly see where I'm going with this.
I have tried a super magnet I have just to see if at all possible and seems promising. The sleeve itself is not magnetic but the batteries are. So my idea would be to use a thin layer of some type of material between the magnet and the sleeve which purpose would be to prevent slipping, heat insulator and to prevent scratching of the sleeve. The outer side of magnet could be up all kinds of things. Including emblems, logos, anti skid tape etc.
Would have to remove for battery replacement for obvious reasons.
Funny thing is, at the moment I have been using mine without a pad now for over a week and have had no problems. Odd how at times it just get ignoring and other times it seems no problem. Anyway, would be nice to have a re-usable option sitting around.

Any ideas, help or suggestions on this ongoing topic? of??

Here's a picture of what we need to find in the right size.

Motor_Arc_Magnet.jpg


Pipes
 
Pipes,

PhreedomPhries

High Plains Drifter
Hey guys, have been pondering an idea on the slider thumb pad. Seems quiet in here so thought a good time to throw this in. I finially found the search phrase to get close the what might just be a pretty good solution. Looks like quite a bit of searching might be needed and maybe some others helping might hit the "right fit" for the job.
If you search the term "super arc magnet" and view images only, you will quickly see where I'm going with this.
I have tried a super magnet I have just to see if at all possible and seems promising. The sleeve itself is not magnetic but the batteries are. So my idea would be to use a thin layer of some type of material between the magnet and the sleeve which purpose would be to prevent slipping, heat insulator and to prevent scratching of the sleeve. The outer side of magnet could be up all kinds of things. Including emblems, logos, anti skid tape etc.
Would have to remove for battery replacement for obvious reasons.
Funny thing is, at the moment I have been using mine without a pad now for over a week and have had no problems. Odd how at times it just get ignoring and other times it seems no problem. Anyway, would be nice to have a re-usable option sitting around.

Any ideas, help or suggestions on this ongoing topic? of??

Here's a picture of what we need to find in the right size.

Motor_Arc_Magnet.jpg


Pipes
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/300443934/Tile_permanent_magnet.html

Looks like sourcing the right size is a done deal. :) Is there any need for concern of damage to the cells while in operation as the result of magnetic proximity?
 
PhreedomPhries,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Now that was quick...lol
I saw those kinds of places but see the minimum quantity. 3000.
The size is critical and at this point not sure how they even size them.
I would assume radius and degrees and length.
Like 1/2" radius by 60 degrees X 1 inch long. (quick eyeball guess)
Would be nice to have access to a retailer with multiple sizes to try out.
Motor stator magnets are another possibility but they are not as strong or as nice looking.

Maybe TV could look into this as well. Would make another good accessory.

Cheers,
Pipes
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Any ideas, help or suggestions on this ongoing topic? of??

Fun idea, Pipes (not surprised at the source....), but I think you're working too hard.

How about mold release (wax) on the sleeve, mask off a patch of the right size for the button, putting several small high power magnets in the area and gluing them together with some JB Weld? The magnets hold the epoxy button (complete with molded in ribs to match the sleeve) in place in use yet let it be easily removed.....

You could even mold a lip at the top of the button for your thumb to push up against.

OF
 
OF,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Fun idea, Pipes (not surprised at the source....), but I think you're working too hard.

How about mold release (wax) on the sleeve, mask off a patch of the right size for the button, putting several small high power magnets in the area and gluing them together with some JB Weld? The magnets hold the epoxy button (complete with molded in ribs to match the sleeve) in place in use yet let it be easily removed.....

You could even mold a lip at the top of the button for your thumb to push up against.

OF
Now that's what I'm talkin about. cool stuff OF.
And the JB Weld also comes in putty form now so can design any shape you want.
Maybe a layer of the thinner stuff first to fill in around the magnets then the putty to shape it.
Going to look for some super magnet chips or whatever.?

I did try the epoxy before in an attempt to get the grooves duplicated but ended up going bad. I used some vegetable oil to try and stop the epoxy from sticking to the sleeve but the crap still stuck. Took me an hour to get it off. Never thought of wax.

Me, work hard. Never heard those words used in the same sentence before.

Just throwing together a video of the magnet I currently have and use for temporarily holding my TV while needing my second hand back. Will post shortly. It shows just how strong a magnet can grab this puppy.

Pipes
 
Pipes,

OF

Well-Known Member
Now that's what I'm talkin about. cool stuff OF.
And the JB Weld also comes in putty form now so can design any shape you want.
Maybe a layer of the thinner stuff first to fill in around the magnets then the putty to shape it.
Going to look for some super magnet chips or whatever.?

Never thought of wax.

How about something like these (I have some here from another project, fun to play with and awfully strong). Not a perfect fit, but four of them with a bit of tape on top works (tried it)......
http://www.amazon.com/Magcraft-NSN0...=UTF8&qid=1341803037&sr=8-11&keywords=magnets

They sell 'mold release' for this sort of thing (as you discovered oils don't work....) but a couple of layers of good paste wax (Johnson's is my favorite) is a lot tougher. The putty should work fine from I'd think, but two layers is also a good option. Modeling clay might make a good 'dike' to keep it where you want it if you go with the thin version. It can easily be filed and otherwise worked when hard of course. You can easily file grooves in the top for instance? Or even inlay something fun in the top.....

Sounds like another 'Pipes Product' in the future....

Have fun.

OF
 
OF,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
How about something like these (I have some here from another project, fun to play with and awfully strong). Not a perfect fit, but four of them with a bit of tape on top works (tried it)......
http://www.amazon.com/Magcraft-NSN0...=UTF8&qid=1341803037&sr=8-11&keywords=magnets

They sell 'mold release' for this sort of thing (as you discovered oils don't work....) but a couple of layers of good paste wax (Johnson's is my favorite) is a lot tougher. The putty should work fine from I'd think, but two layers is also a good option. Modeling clay might make a good 'dike' to keep it where you want it if you go with the thin version. It can easily be filed and otherwise worked when hard of course. You can easily file grooves in the top for instance? Or even inlay something fun in the top.....

Sounds like another 'Pipes Product' in the future....

Have fun.

OF
Those look fun.

EDIT. Thinking more about this and think you hit the nail on the head for the easy way for sure. I might just order some of them gems. Never know where they could be used. So you say 4 is good enough? And with the added slide support from the epoxy would make it really solid.
I like. You going to give it a try OF? I'm game.

No plans to make another sell-able project. Just giving ideas up as the topic keeps coming up.
Then again....LOL nooo

Finished the video on my daily pouch. It's a $8 pouch from Walmart IIRC.
Added a piece of flexible plastic along the back, under the liner, to give support and keep things straight along the opening. Also, helps to keep it closed. Cut and sewed the inner liner to keep top separate from the bottom, which is accessed from the side.
The magnet is from a capstan motor in a VTR. The slip on battery holders I use for most of the stuff in the top as it unities the length and gives something to grab onto for removing. Left one side of the inner liner the full length as the bottom portion doesn't go past the zipper. So claimed the realistate for the magnet and my back up ejuice.
Also used a drop of crazy glue on the zipper so it doesn't open all the way down. Keeps stuff from falling out the side.
The magnet holds pretty well but only use it for freeing up a hand quickly and to store my TV so always keeps my basic needs together. Would not use it for holding my TV for walking around too much. In fact it did fall off once already when getting into the car. (It caught on the door frame as I was getting in) Battle wounds...
The way I have it configured is holds 2 sets of batteries, T1, EVO, spare ejuice and 2 containers for herb. Could have just one and a third set of batteries if needed.


Enjoy, :popcorn:
Pipes
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Those look fun.

EDIT. Thinking more about this and think you hit the nail on the head for the easy way for sure. I might just order some of them gems. Never know where they could be used. So you say 4 is good enough? And with the added slide support from the epoxy would make it really solid.
I like. You going to give it a try OF? I'm game.

They are fun. A lifetime supply of refrigerator magnets if nothing else..... Four worked fine, it just happened to be what I had handy. I just stuck them on and put a piece of tape over the top of them to link them together. As I see it, in the end, all they have to do is hold the button in place. The force is still taken by the grooves in the sleeve (in my test this is what the magnets pushed on), the key is the epoxy body I think.

Fun video, lots in that 'war bag' for sure. I'm not brave enough to carry it held by a magnet I guess, too much of a chance to get it knocked off somewhere. I'd rather have it zipped up inside.

Speaking of zippers, I've done the shorten up the run trick, too. But after trying thread (works OK but wears out) I now use copper wire 'staples'. A U shaped loop poked through across the closed part with the arms bent in on the inside. Strong and easy to remove if you change your mind.

OF
 
OF,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Fun video, lots in that 'war bag' for sure. I'm not brave enough to carry it held by a magnet I guess, too much of a chance to get it knocked off somewhere. I'd rather have it zipped up inside.
OF

Yeah, found that out myself. Use it more for just keeping my stuff together. The TV likes to roll around and since my pouch is usually around that's where I keep it. Less to look around for in the morning too. If on my belt just use it for a very temporary place to put it if both hands needed. I tend to set it down and a few minutes later can't find it. Must be an age thing.?

Speaking of zippers, I've done the shorten up the run trick, too. But after trying thread (works OK but wears out) I now use copper wire 'staples'. A U shaped loop poked through across the closed part with the arms bent in on the inside. Strong and easy to remove if you change your mind.
OF

Sounds good. I first used a safety pin. After a couple good pricks I got out the crazy glue.

And PLEASE change the battery in that smoke detector :p that "CHIRP" drives me insane :freak:

Is that were that chirp is coming from? Gotten so use to it. Consider it changed. :\

Cheers,
Pipes
 
Pipes,

SameOldTim

Previously Known as 'ThermoCoreTim'
Manufacturer
Hey everyone,

Sorry about the lag in getting your Power Adapters. We just got a bunch of the last machined part we needed and are building them all right now.

BTW there is only one day left of the sale everyone! These Power Adapters are selling out as quick as we can build them! We are still on track to receive the glass next week so that we can ship out every ones orders.

Cheers,

Tim
 
SameOldTim,

Nick Brand

Bud Vaporer
Hey everyone,

Sorry about the lag in getting your Power Adapters. We just got a bunch of the last machined part we needed and are building them all right now.

BTW there is only one day left of the sale everyone! These Power Adapters are selling out as quick as we can build them! We are still on track to receive the glass next week so that we can ship out every ones orders.

Cheers,

Tim
It was confusing to see, and rx an email saying, that my T1 and PA ordered on July 2 was shipped. Only to get an email today (after I had to ask) explaining that my order actually wasn't shipped at all. Btw, I know first-hand the growing/coordination pains for a start-up, and I'm sure you all will eventually get it dialed in.

Will you send another email that our order has finally shipped out today?
Thanks amigo
 
Nick Brand,

bmann007

Member
this probably has been touch upon but what would you guys prefer the Thermovape or the vaporblunt
also im having trouble understanding the lingo going on in this thread lol like the t1 has mods and im trying to understand the different variations. can anyone try to explain it to me ...before you make fun understand im very new to the vapor world and just seeking the best portable vaporizer..
 
bmann007,

jambandphan03

in flavor country
Welcome to the fun bmann007! Thermovape has a bunch of different products that work off of the same battery set up. You have the T1, for herb, the Revolution/Dart for oils/concentrates the Evolution also for herb and the AVA for ecig juices. All of them can be purchased to run on 6v configuration (SV) but the Evo, Rev, and AVA can also be purchased in a LV version that runs on 3.7v batteries. It can be a little confusing at first, but there are separate threads going for each of these parts. You are in the T1 thread now,

Rev/Dart thread: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/thermovape-revolution-for-concentrates.4927/

Evolution thread: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/thermovape-evolution.5685/

I hope this is at least a good starting point for you. Lots of info here to take in for these devices. Most of the modding that you will read about is partially due to people enjoying being able to tinker, but some of is does improve performance of the devices as well. It's a bit of a mixed bag. Happy reading!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
this probably has been touch upon but what would you guys prefer the Thermovape or the vaporblunt
also im having trouble understanding the lingo going on in this thread lol like the t1 has mods and im trying to understand the different variations. can anyone try to explain it to me ...before you make fun understand im very new to the vapor world and just seeking the best portable vaporizer..

For a whole host of reasons I'm in favor of the TV (so much for the easy part...).

To 'vape' herb, you have to raise the THC (at least) to the 'magic temperature' (usually held to be just under 400F). Go just a little bit higher, and other gasses start to 'come off', the taste changes a bit toward 'burnt popcorn' taste then something starts to oxidize which generates heat.....and combustion happens. The goal is to evenly roast your herb without letting any spot get past say 425 degrees? Not easy.

There are only 3 ways to heat something, therefore only 3 types of basic systems, although some have multiple aspects of course. We can use conduction, like the MFLB does, to heat herb in direct contact with the hot surface. We can also use convection to heat the air and use the hot air to transfer the heat (no direct contact). Lastly we can use radiation to use Infrared Red to 'beam the heat' like a bathroom heater. This latter is how the TV Revolution and DART work, and how the T1 heat core works.

So, to make the T1:
http://thermovape.com/collections/all/products/kit-black

work, for instance, you load charged batteries in the bottom and ground dry herb in the bowl on top and screw the cover on. Above the battery, under the bowl, is the heat core with it's two heaters (about 20 Watts each if you care). You power it on, wait a bit (say 20 seconds?) for IR to heat the core up uniformly inside, then draw slowly heating the air in the core then pulling it into the load (convection heating). Several seconds into this you'll have the very bottom of the load, nearest the hot air input, hot enough to vape. The more you draw, the more heat, the higher the production (a typical convection trait), much like blazing weed in a bong of joint.

T1 is perhaps 'top of the heap' for purists since you can soak things in alcohol and even boil them to clean them 'brand new'. Like medical gear (where TV has their roots...).

What's best for any one person is, of course, an open question. It depends mostly on what you want to do. If you have concentrates available it changes the game a lot IMO. Also, many vapes don't do so well on lower grades of herb (many just don't hold enough).

Another factor is to get the proper benefit you'll really have to at least try giving up blazing for a month or so depending on your history. You really are inhaling a bunch of junk with the THC, some of it darn nasty. It's part of the high (the 'loaded' or 'stoned' part mostly) but it's also getting in the way. I'd say the average vaper cuts their weed bill to 1/3 of what it was. Yes, that means a gram lasts like an eighth used to.....

So, what's your pleasure?

OF
 

jambandphan03

in flavor country
So I wanted to try this out for a bit before posting it... I have been using the Tintest Disk (from the Solo thread) that was meant to go in my solo to improve the airflow with the stock stem, as a topper for my T1 bowl... instead of a screen. I found it works great because the dimple puts a small air gap between the lid and the disk, and the air holes are off set from the cap, so less clogging happens in the cap air path. I don't know if he still sells/makes these, you have to contact him through PM. It is stainless steel...

xgcNq.jpg


sGlCs.jpg
 
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