Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

[OF]

Ok thanks OF, looks like I missed my opportunity to try it but I'm sure ill be happy enough with my cera when it arrives. I've always heard the dart was a great oil product though, as I'm sure your ole know already

You're welcome, of course. DART is a keeper IMO.

It was, and is and excellent vape for sure. But trust me, a Cera is great consolation. In fact, some might say it's just the medicine for fighting DART addiction? Lots of us seem to be leaving the DARTs at home, but very few are selling them off.....there's a clue there I think?

OF

 

[Bob Loblaw]

ArchVape---Thanks for sharing the cleaning idea!!
MNIM--- Feel the same way about my UltraMax LV and the 17670's--A true beast!

Just got 2 rebuilds back from TET, absolutely great service!! Zeki treated me 1st class the whole way thru. Kudos to everyone at Thermo Essence Technologies!!!


For those interested i found that Vip mini at Vaporstore
https://www.vaporstore.com/proddetail.php?prod=vip-vape-pen

have you checked the Dabbler by vapor bros? safer company. vitolo approved. good for a dab at a time hits. safer than microG and all that other crap

 

[Silver420Surfer]

have you checked the Dabbler by vapor bros? safer company. vitolo approved. good for a dab at a time hits. safer than microG and all that other crap

I have a Dabbler. I was just posting that link to the Vip mini because the guy a few posts prior brought it up. I didn't link it because i was interested. I am very content with my TV Darts and have also been enjoying the Dabbler. I wouldn't trade my Dart even for a Cera. For me, my UltraMax LV Dart is the perfect size, shape,etc., and hit wise, I'll put it against anything else used for the same purpose.

 

[Mynameismud]

I have a Dabbler. I was just posting that link to the Vip mini because the guy a few posts prior brought it up. I didn't link it because i was interested. I am very content with my TV Darts and have also been enjoying the Dabbler. I wouldn't trade my Dart even for a Cera. For me, my UltraMax LV Dart is the perfect size, shape,etc., and hit wise, I'll put it against anything else used for the same purpose.

Couldnt have said it any better. One of my 2 darts is probably going to be buried with me whenever that time comes...

Ive been using my ultramax for two days straight without having to charge it and its still going strong! I could be slightly smaller length/height wise but thats just me nit picking. I may order some of those mouthpieces from PV and see if that changes anything but I have no problem keeping it in my pocket all day. Now if only they could make an adapter like the T1 510 adapter so I can just plug a cera into it already.

 

[NoName]

Couldnt have said it any better. One of my 2 darts is probably going to be buried with me whenever that time comes...

Ive been using my ultramax for two days straight without having to charge it and its still going strong! I could be slightly smaller length/height wise but thats just me nit picking. I may order some of those mouthpieces from PV and see if that changes anything but I have no problem keeping it in my pocket all day. Now if only they could make an adapter like the T1 510 adapter so I can just plug a cera into it already.

Hey MNIM,

When I made the OP re: the MP's from PV I forgot to mention that I plug the new MP directly into the non-windowed version of the Dart core (I do not plug it into the dabber tip part of the original MP). If done this way you will reduce the overall length of your setup by almost half an inch (vs original MP's length and I believe the reason you originally sought another MP?). I personally prefer the original dabber MP and only stumbled upon using the PV MP on the REV/DART (I use the PV MP's on another Vape and was looking for an easy way to 'consume' any medication that got sucked up through the flue and accumulated on the bottom of the MP). BTW, this works. Allows you to get that last little bit and leaves your MP pretty clean (LOL).

NN

 

[OF]

For the past 6 months I been using a 510 atomizer cleaning tool called the plunger to clean out my revolution window and the dart stems every 2-3 weeks.

I just got the ones I ordered, and unless they've radically changed (which I doubt) there's no way these will clean a healthy Revolution/DART. I know, I just tried it on two. ZERO FLOW. Absolutely none, nor should there be looking at it. It doesn't work for this use.

The pieces is a simple, well made part for what it does. But it expects to inject through the center of the connector, not through the vent holes. To get to the vents it would have to 'weep' up the treads (plastic on brass, good luck with that). The only way I can see it getting in at all is to force it's way past the seal around the center pin either on the ID or OD.

It no doubt works OK for some other 510 cart use, but save your money if you're thinking of using it on Revolution/DART would be my advice until some else reports some success. From what I'm holding here, it's a bust.

I just ordered the small kit; thanks for the pointer. It looks like a great idea to clean all my 510 carts.

It's a great idea all right, but IMO needs a bypass cut in the threads and an o-ring (or at least proper seal surface) at the top.

I hope you didn't buy extras for friends like I did? Maybe I can hang them on the Christmas tree later on.....

OF

 

[Haywood]

Nah, I only bought the one for myself; I learned (the hard way) long ago not to order a bunch for friends until I check. My 510 carts don't have a center feed hole either. Have you tried one of your files on the threads? Maybe four channel cuts at 90° would work, while still remaining liquid tight.

Seemed like a good idea at the time...

 

[OF]

Nah, I only bought the one for myself; I learned (the hard way) long ago not to order a bunch for friends until I check.

Have you tried one of your files on the threads? Maybe four channel cuts at 90° would work, while still remaining liquid tight.

It's OK, I took the risk, the ding is small, but I sure don't want others to follow until the situation is more clear. But yeah, I shoulda known better.....what of it?

Yes, I've been thinking of the slot idea (what I called " a bypass cut in the threads"). A single slot deeper than the 'root' of the tread should do it. There's no big rush on size past a point where pressure on plugs can be brought to bear I think?

The issue I see is the seal at the top of the adapter. The thread will no longer seal it like designed. I don't think an o-ring will work (too narrow, no room for a retaining groove it would most likely 'blow out' at an inopportune moment? ISO in the face is to be avoided. Likewise all over the family kitchen or bathroom. Best avoided. Maybe a very narrow one in a notch at the top edge or a flat gasket, maybe a Teflon washer? I'm thinking maybe an external sleeve with two inset rings (one on the adapter OD, the other the cart body above the threads).

A vent out of the adapter side above the ring and slots on the top of would duct the ISO around the threads and into the holes in the cart.

Seemed like a good idea at the time...

Sure did, sold me on the idea. Still does, I just don't think this exact tool suits our needs. But the idea it too good to abandon I think.

Where's Pipes? Somebody go wake him up, he's clever......

OF

 

[Atomsk]

A few questions about the Dart:

The Dart is the default cart that comes with the Revolution, am I getting that right?
What thread is the Dart, is it worth picking up for $40, and is TV still doing the $15 rebuild?

Thanks for humoring a newbie.

 

[NoName]

A few questions about the Dart:

The Dart is the default cart that comes with the Revolution, am I getting that right?
What thread is the Dart, is it worth picking up for $40, and is TV still doing the $15 rebuild?

Thanks for humoring a newbie.

Hey Atomsk,

About to crash, but maybe I can help.

Revolution came in 2 versions: First a 'windowed' version followed by the 'Dart' version (most find the Dart version to be the more desirable of the 2 because its' 'dabber' MP tip simplifies loading (windowed version has no 'built-in' dabber and can be somewhat messy opening/closing the window during loading.

510 threads. And yes, TV still does rebuilds (for $15 IIRC). $40 seems like a very reasonable price for a well made device that is getting harder to find (TET no longer makes them having turned their attention to their new 'Cera'). I love my Dart(s) - I have three. Well made American product, extremely dependable yet repairable by a company that IME defines 'Customer Service'.

Try it. I think you'll like it.

NN

 

[Bob Loblaw]

seriously, anything under a bill for a dart is worth it at this juncture, imho

 

[OF]

seriously, anything under a bill for a dart is worth it at this juncture, imho

Right now, DARTs make about the best investment going..... Forget Real Estate and T Bills, go with DARTs....

OF

 

[Atomsk]

Hey Atomsk,

About to crash, but maybe I can help.

Revolution came in 2 versions: First a 'windowed' version followed by the 'Dart' version (most find the Dart version to be the more desirable of the 2 because its' 'dabber' MP tip simplifies loading (windowed version has no 'built-in' dabber and can be somewhat messy opening/closing the window during loading.

510 threads. And yes, TV still does rebuilds (for $15 IIRC). $40 seems like a very reasonable price for a well made device that is getting harder to find (TET no longer makes them having turned their attention to their new 'Cera'). I love my Dart(s) - I have three. Well made American product, extremely dependable yet repairable by a company that IME defines 'Customer Service'.

Try it. I think you'll like it.

NN

Thanks, NoName, Bob, and OF. After NN's post, I believe the cart for sale is actually the windowed version. Here's the pic from CL. Can anyone confirm this, please? If it is the wind-dart, is it still worth getting?

From what everyone says about the Dart, it's everything I've been looking for. Hope to find one, and soon.

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

That is the original window Revolution. The one on the left goes over the one on the right and you twist open/shut. You load through the window. DART has the built-in dabber and no window. Revolution in general turned out to be an excellent investment for me.

 

[OF]

That is the original window Revolution. The one on the left goes over the one on the right and you twist open/shut. You load through the window. DART has the built-in dabber and no window. Revolution in general turned out to be an excellent investment for me.

What the man said. Don't sell Revolution short, it's exactly the same beast 'under the hood', only the loading is different. Either is a solid tool that will give excellent service, the difference is really slight IMO.

OF

 

[Deadshort480]

I don't know if it is across the board, but the hole inside my Rev cart that exposes the ceramic is a smaller diameter than that of my Dart cart. Can TET bore that out, or is the difference in design necessary?

 

[OF]

I don't know if it is across the board, but the hole inside my Rev cart that exposes the ceramic is a smaller diameter than that of my Dart cart. Can TET bore that out, or is the difference in design necessary?

IIRC the size of the lip that retains the top plate (what you're looking at at the hole) changed a couple of times. It turns out to not matter in terms of production (counter intuitive as that is) but does have to be large enough to retain the plate worst case but not so large as to block the vent(s) on the side of the plate.

Again, since the vapor happens inside (where the heat is higher) not on top of the plate, exposing more is not really a useful advantage and has a potential downside.

As I recall the lip and opening are part of the upper tube, the part that's recycled when the body is rebuilt (the stuff below is replace as it can only be crimped once). Boring it out would destroy the plating.....

OF

 

[SameOldTim]

I don't know if it is across the board, but the hole inside my Rev cart that exposes the ceramic is a smaller diameter than that of my Dart cart. Can TET bore that out, or is the difference in design necessary?

The bypasses next to the ceramic was added with the DART, we found that with liquid concentrates the ceramic would plug up when cold. The bypass allows the air to flow around it while it heats up and starts to flow again. If you tend to use your 'windowd' Rev with those thinner concentrates shoot us an email at sales@thermovape.com and ask about our rebuild service for the Revolution, we might be able to put something together for you.

Cheers,
Tim

 

[Zingbuddah]

Yawn....hope everyone is having a great day and getting some needed time off....


...just on here crusin trying to read up on how to clean the LV DART

Scored one in perfect shape from someone that just didn't want it anymore...they had no idea I was wanting one! Just sitting on the shelf.

 

[SameOldTim]

Yawn....hope everyone is having a great day and getting some needed time off....


...just on here crusin trying to read up on how to clean the LV DART

Scored one in perfect shape from someone that just didn't want it anymore...they had no idea I was wanting one! Just sitting on the shelf.

Its pretty easy, heres a quick rundown:

1, soak the DART in ISO for an hour or so
2, Boil the DART in water for 30 min
3, Let the DART dry overnight on something warm (Cable box, computer, etc)
4, "20-20 burn" Fire the core for 20 second on-off intervals about 20 times

Thats about it, although im sure there are a few similar versions.

Cheers,
Tim

 

[OF]

1, soak the DART in ISO for an hour or so
2, Boil the DART in water for 30 min
3, Let the DART dry overnight on something warm (Cable box, computer, etc)
4, "20-20 burn" Fire the core for 20 second on-off intervals about 20 times

Thats about it, although im sure there are a few similar versions.

I like to boil 'em first since it seems to get the most gunk out fastest. I don't recover from the ISO so I'm not all that worried about a bit of water being left. Then ISO soak and final boil (although I find five minutes boil is enough to get the ISO out.

I also don't usually do 20/20/20 burns if it's otherwise clean enough to load up.

OF

 

[hoptimum]

I like to boil 'em first since it seems to get the most gunk out fastest. I don't recover from the ISO so I'm not all that worried about a bit of water being left. Then ISO soak and final boil (although I find five minutes boil is enough to get the ISO out.

I also don't usually do 20/20/20 burns if it's otherwise clean enough to load up.

OF

OF and Tim, how often do you recommend doing this cleaning process?

 

[Vakas]

What about the Revolution? How do we clean those. I mean which part do we boil? or the whole thing is submersible in water?

 

[hoptimum]

What about the Revolution? How do we clean those. I mean which part do we boil? or the whole thing is submersible in water?

Vakas, I think the procedure is the same, except with the window cartridge taken apart, soaked in ISO and boiled instead of the Dart. I've found that the window gets very hard to open after only a session or two without cleaning the cartridge.

 

[OF]

OF and Tim, how often do you recommend doing this cleaning process?

It depends on what you feed it. Clean concentrates can go grams, bubble fouls quickly. You loose a bit of residual each time, so I don't do it until I think it needs it. It gets slow into action, and production gets 'weak' and 'muddy' to my taste. I probably go too long now, unlike when I first got it, since there's a big improvement when I do it (it needs it.....), unlike at first when I cleaned all the time. I used to clean between strains, something I generally don't do any more.

What about the Revolution? How do we clean those. I mean which part do we boil? or the whole thing is submersible in water?

The entire unit except battery and switch are. I separate the cart into pieces, leaving the o-rings on, and boil the body parts but usually not the MP.

OF