Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

OF

Well-Known Member
Wait.. the AVA tube is going away?

Are you talking about the actual AVA's not being sold anymore? And I assume that "when they are ready" means they aren't ready yet?

No, sorry for the confusion. I'm guessing that the option of getting a DART built with AVA tube will go away when the supply of 'Revolution specific' ceramic is used up. AFAIK AVA will continue on but with it's own tubes and ceramic parts.

The replacement version of DART is no doubt 'in the works', in fact it sounds like Beta testing is either happening or is about to. As a blind guess, they should be available in time for filling Christmas stockings but I'm not betting on it, problems happen sometimes you know.

My advice would be to try to find the bucks to buy at least the custom 'AVA/DART' core if you think the unknown risks of delays in the new version could be a real hardship. The rest could be bought later I think. IIRC it's $35, money I'd think you could easily recover with a sale of a 'new in box' version when such are 'not available for love or money'?

OF
 

shredhead

Specialist
Okay so i wanna order up some 510-601 screw adapters and while i was looking at those i came across more 17670 batteries with higher mAh then the ones Thermovape has to offer. Anyone use batteries outside of the ones TV has on their site?
 
shredhead,

OF

Well-Known Member
Okay so i wanna order up some 510-601 screw adapters and while i was looking at those i came across more 17670 batteries with higher mAh then the ones Thermovape has to offer. Anyone use batteries outside of the ones TV has on their site?

Without looking at the specifics, I'd advise against them. The most important characteristic to us, ability to deliver highest possible power output rate, is usually traded off against capacity within a given chemistry type. And the chemistry itself selected for low internal resistance (the factor that most controls that 'flash power out'). For example, AW brand IMR batteries are the top choice in Persei even though they have lower capacity than other IMR batteries (even their own model of high capacity IMRs) and as a class much lower capacity than protected Li-ions in that size.

The engineers at TV are actually very competent, they researched it well and chose wisely IMO. If there were better batteries for the use, they'd be using them I'm sure. And yes, I've tried many of the others.

OF
 

shredhead

Specialist
Without looking at the specifics, I'd advise against them. The most important characteristic to us, ability to deliver highest possible power output rate, is usually traded off against capacity within a given chemistry type. And the chemistry itself selected for low internal resistance (the factor that most controls that 'flash power out'). For example, AW brand IMR batteries are the top choice in Persei even though they have lower capacity than other IMR batteries (even their own model of high capacity IMRs) and as a class much lower capacity than protected Li-ions in that size.

The engineers at TV are actually very competent, they researched it well and chose wisely IMO. If there were better batteries for the use, they'd be using them I'm sure. And yes, I've tried many of the others.

OF
Thanks. I was just curious. Looks like I'm gunna order some screw adapters and a power pal VV with USB pass through for some experimenting!
 
shredhead,
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OF

Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,

I just got back from a brief visit to TV. I was there to return some gear and stick my nose in where I could to see what the future holds. Two points came up, first the supply of parts to build DARTs is getting low indeed. If you want to get one of the custom made ones (with the AVA tube) while the supply of ceramic parts holds out (making it possible still), time is rapidly running out. If you want to get in on it, I suggest doing so today. Beta test units for the replacement models are still a couple weeks out, IMO (and this is only my somewhat educated guess) orders are probably going to be opened around Thanksgiving, making delivery for Christmas a real possibility. If there's any problems uncovered in the Beta testing that schedule will of course suffer. Your call, but remember the new stuff will be 'downward compatible' that is you can put the new version of DART, no matter what it looks like or when it gets here, on the Ultra or whatever supply you buy today.

Secondly, I got a couple 'peeks behind the curtain' on the new stuff. Keen as the existing stuff is, this is better (or will be) in a number of ways. Most, if not all, the requests have been addressed. It will likely offer improved battery capacity, ease of use, load capacity adjustments and so on. Nothing overly radical AFAIK, but what many will find useful improvements. I have no trouble recommending the current line, but good as it is I'm sure some will complain that it's not up to the new standards. Human nature, but IMO not overly logical. The existing products are excellent tools, and will remain so for a LONG time.

That said, I too am anxious to see what the new stuff is like.

But if you want a DART before they're all gone, best get the card out.....

OF
 

NoName

Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,

I just got back from a brief visit to TV. I was there to return some gear and stick my nose in where I could to see what the future holds. Two points came up, first the supply of parts to build DARTs is getting low indeed. If you want to get one of the custom made ones (with the AVA tube) while the supply of ceramic parts holds out (making it possible still), time is rapidly running out. If you want to get in on it, I suggest doing so today. Beta test units for the replacement models are still a couple weeks out, IMO (and this is only my somewhat educated guess) orders are probably going to be opened around Thanksgiving, making delivery for Christmas a real possibility. If there's any problems uncovered in the Beta testing that schedule will of course suffer. Your call, but remember the new stuff will be 'downward compatible' that is you can put the new version of DART, no matter what it looks like or when it gets here, on the Ultra or whatever supply you buy today.


That said, I too am anxious to see what the new stuff is like.

But if you want a DART before they're all gone, best get the card out.....

OF

Hey OF and fellow SJ area FCrs:

You might also want to pull out your card for this:

Yerba Buena Saratoga: 4211 Barrymore Drive (not too far from the 280)

Pure Gold Ampules for $32 each. Dispensary eats the sales tax. You only have to pay the additional 7% SJ MMJ tax. Picked some up this morning - gonna be a goooood weekend!!

Also looking forward to all new products - already starting to get into the "holiday spirit".

NoName
 

Fully Melted

It's OK to enjoy your medicine.
$32 for 1/2 gram ampules is pretty good! I did find a place in LA near my Daughters that has them for 2 for $60 either the PureGold Plus Flavinoids or PureGold Classic. If you need the name, PM me. I was surprised as I live in Humbee and can't even get them up there! I have to drive all the way to the middle of California....the bay area to find them.
 

quattrocrazy

Active Member
Gentle Friends,

I just got back from a brief visit to TV. I was there to return some gear and stick my nose in where I could to see what the future holds. Two points came up, first the supply of parts to build DARTs is getting low indeed. If you want to get one of the custom made ones (with the AVA tube) while the supply of ceramic parts holds out (making it possible still), time is rapidly running out. If you want to get in on it, I suggest doing so today. Beta test units for the replacement models are still a couple weeks out, IMO (and this is only my somewhat educated guess) orders are probably going to be opened around Thanksgiving, making delivery for Christmas a real possibility. If there's any problems uncovered in the Beta testing that schedule will of course suffer. Your call, but remember the new stuff will be 'downward compatible' that is you can put the new version of DART, no matter what it looks like or when it gets here, on the Ultra or whatever supply you buy today.

Secondly, I got a couple 'peeks behind the curtain' on the new stuff. Keen as the existing stuff is, this is better (or will be) in a number of ways. Most, if not all, the requests have been addressed. It will likely offer improved battery capacity, ease of use, load capacity adjustments and so on. Nothing overly radical AFAIK, but what many will find useful improvements. I have no trouble recommending the current line, but good as it is I'm sure some will complain that it's not up to the new standards. Human nature, but IMO not overly logical. The existing products are excellent tools, and will remain so for a LONG time.

That said, I too am anxious to see what the new stuff is like.

But if you want a DART before they're all gone, best get the card out.....

OF
I don't think the new cartridges will be 54 dollars either so if you want a good cartridge 54 dollars sounds like a good price comparred to what you will probably pay for a new one.
 
quattrocrazy,

Bluntcrush

Director of Vapor Research Labs™
Hi Friends!
Just wanted to stop in and catch up on any items I may have missed and also say that my Revolutions are still working wonderfully!!! Many thanks are due to all of my favorite correspondants here in this thread! I will keep faithfully reading and anxiously waiting to find out what the new generation of TV will have to offer! Many happy puffs to all of you out there in Revolution land!
 

glenda

underground artist and musician
Outstanding! Gotta love you Brit's ability to exploit this strange language we pinched off you way back for clear communication. No mistake in your results or opinion!

I agree with you, I want my gear 'rock simple and tough as nails'. And made in a Craftsman like manner. It's a tool, not a piece of artwork. I think TV is on board with that idea. We Yanks of the west have an expression about fences, they should be "bull strong, horse high and hog tight". That, I think, you now have. Use it with pride.....but discretely of course.

I usually do both. ISO soak first (maybe 3 to 5 minutes in the same vial I've been using for some time), once softened up a boil for 5 or 10 minutes flushes it out well and completely eliminates the alcohol. Draining it hot drys it fast as well. I usually boil a pan of water, steal enough to make a cup of Earl Gray and drop the bits in the pan. When the cup of tea is done, so are the parts.

You're very welcome, glad it's worked out well 'over there'. As, I'm sure are others. Thanks for passing the good word.

Best regards.

OF

Well after a few weeks trying this out, I'm yet to be convinced. the build is great but its hard work getting a decent hit of pollen, you get one but most of time it tickles you but does not hit you... and boy does the whole thing get damn hot before you do. on other units i hear warm up time of 10 - 20 seconds, on this at least 30 and more, when you feel the heat through the battery casing it's ready lol

I prefer its build to the iolite but you got reasonable hits and a vapor trail, with this you get mild trail or just the taste and obviously it will never match the hits or vapor through my da buddha

jury is still out, i'll keep trying, I'll have to for the dollar it cost ;o) x
 
glenda,

OF

Well-Known Member
Well after a few weeks trying this out, I'm yet to be convinced. the build is great but its hard work getting a decent hit of pollen, you get one but most of time it tickles you but does not hit you... and boy does the whole thing get damn hot before you do. on other units i hear warm up time of 10 - 20 seconds, on this at least 30 and more, when you feel the heat through the battery casing it's ready lol

Understood, it's not easy. Pollen and Kief are far from ideal, bubble works better in my experience and it's in it's own with oils and waxes. But it's the best vape going for the job if you can get it to perform well. I think the key is technique, principally keeping solid contact with the ceramic. I found mine works best kind of dirty and gummy. That is fresh cleaned is not as good. I do 'batches' making a ball about half the diameter of the tube. Between hits I use a wooden toothpick and scoop the mass up and knead it against the wall a time or two before poking a fresh surface down for the next hit. It does indeed get hot, but it's designed to to a large extent. If the mass is warm and the contact good you can get vapors with less extra heat which not only keeps it a bit cooler by extends battery life. I only got good results when I said 'screw the battery life (for now)' and concentrated on the heat part.

Heat transfer is clearly the key, we need to get the THC locked inside up to the magic temperature. Thinking out loud for a minute, how about making a paste with say peanut oil (stable at our temperatures)? I bet that would improve heat transfer......

Wonder what TV says? Tim, you got your ears on?

Hey All, just stopping in and thought I'd share my thoughts on the Revolution. Sweet piece

Thanks.

I think you'll find your troubles with other 510 stuff is because you're not resetting the switch in the Ultra. Pull the switch out, gently grab the battery contact near the spring end with your fingernails and pull it straight down. You can also poke it out with a matchstick of something through the bottom of the socket. Then pull the o-ring out to the hole that was holding it in. Push the ring all the way down to the bottom of the hole (I use the reversed switch for this, the match also works fine...) before pushing the switch all the way in with nothing in the socket. Screw the battery tube back on and put you cart on. It will push the switch back as it does so, making solid contact. Sometimes the short version (take out the cart, unscrew the battery tube and push the switch as far in as you can (I use the plastic skirt and a thumbnail) works, but often the o-ring stubbornly returns the switch forcing you to remove it to reset.

Omicron and a few other carts are m601 threads, to use them with 510 gear you need a thread adapter, five bucks.

Evolution's power demand is far past what e-cig supplies are ready for. By like twice. Your VV supply never made it to 4.8 Volts. However Ultra will, barely. I joke 'about a hit and 3/4', but with a couple charged batteries and some 'hot swapping' you can really do pretty good if you want to. You might want to try it.

Good luck.

OF
 

glenda

underground artist and musician
Understood, it's not easy. Pollen and Kief are far from ideal, bubble works better in my experience and it's in it's own with oils and waxes. But it's the best vape going for the job if you can get it to perform well. I think the key is technique, principally keeping solid contact with the ceramic. I found mine works best kind of dirty and gummy. That is fresh cleaned is not as good. I do 'batches' making a ball about half the diameter of the tube. Between hits I use a wooden toothpick and scoop the mass up and knead it against the wall a time or two before poking a fresh surface down for the next hit. It does indeed get hot, but it's designed to to a large extent. If the mass is warm and the contact good you can get vapors with less extra heat which not only keeps it a bit cooler by extends battery life. I only got good results when I said 'screw the battery life (for now)' and concentrated on the heat part.

Heat transfer is clearly the key, we need to get the THC locked inside up to the magic temperature. Thinking out loud for a minute, how about making a paste with say peanut oil (stable at our temperatures)? I bet that would improve heat transfer......

Wonder what TV says? Tim, you got your ears on?



Thanks.

I think you'll find your troubles with other 510 stuff is because you're not resetting the switch in the Ultra. Pull the switch out, gently grab the battery contact near the spring end with your fingernails and pull it straight down. You can also poke it out with a matchstick of something through the bottom of the socket. Then pull the o-ring out to the hole that was holding it in. Push the ring all the way down to the bottom of the hole (I use the reversed switch for this, the match also works fine...) before pushing the switch all the way in with nothing in the socket. Screw the battery tube back on and put you cart on. It will push the switch back as it does so, making solid contact. Sometimes the short version (take out the cart, unscrew the battery tube and push the switch as far in as you can (I use the plastic skirt and a thumbnail) works, but often the o-ring stubbornly returns the switch forcing you to remove it to reset.

Omicron and a few other carts are m601 threads, to use them with 510 gear you need a thread adapter, five bucks.

Evolution's power demand is far past what e-cig supplies are ready for. By like twice. Your VV supply never made it to 4.8 Volts. However Ultra will, barely. I joke 'about a hit and 3/4', but with a couple charged batteries and some 'hot swapping' you can really do pretty good if you want to. You might want to try it.

Good luck.

OF

got a very thin piece of volcano pad sitting between pollen and the bottom of tube and holes as suggested on here to stop dust going into cart, does that matter? currently i get it as hot as hell but only get one decent hit as you feel it and see vapor, rest of hits are flavored warm clear air/vapor

would like to get this evolution doing its thing, far better than the revolution which cant deal with this substance x
 
glenda,

OF

Well-Known Member
got a very thin piece of volcano pad sitting between pollen and the bottom of tube and holes as suggested on here to stop dust going into cart, does that matter? currently i get it as hot as hell but only get one decent hit as you feel it and see vapor, rest of hits are flavored warm clear air/vapor

would like to get this evolution doing its thing, far better than the revolution which cant deal with this substance x

Understood, just rattling along about Revolution and how it's a hassle to do pollen and kief there as well. Maybe there's no link?

Let's look at this another way. You get a solid hit (so we know it's at least possible), followed by hot air with no vapor worth having. Air that's plenty hot? That is refilling the bowl will get vapor with the same battery? Perhaps we did get all or nearly all out 'in one shot'? That sounds weird and all to me, but it is a light load (weight wise) so it should heat real fast. Remember, evolution stores a lot of heat in the core, we can tap a lot of calories when we demand them. It's like when the nail heads dab oil onto a super hot piece of metal, the action happens real fast.

I'm reaching here, maybe, but if you put it in, it should be coming out if it's still there?

OF
 
OF,

glenda

underground artist and musician
Understood, just rattling along about Revolution and how it's a hassle to do pollen and kief there as well. Maybe there's no link?

Let's look at this another way. You get a solid hit (so we know it's at least possible), followed by hot air with no vapor worth having. Air that's plenty hot? That is refilling the bowl will get vapor with the same battery? Perhaps we did get all or nearly all out 'in one shot'? That sounds weird and all to me, but it is a light load (weight wise) so it should heat real fast. Remember, evolution stores a lot of heat in the core, we can tap a lot of calories when we demand them. It's like when the nail heads dab oil onto a super hot piece of metal, the action happens real fast.

I'm reaching here, maybe, but if you put it in, it should be coming out if it's still there?

OF

Yeah get where your coming from and to some degree I think its correct.... but with pollen usually in iOlite or da buddha you get a fair few hits as its obviously denser and and holds more oil.

I filled the tube 3/4s full last night with grated pollen (dust) this obviously when heat passed through it dropped down, reduced in mass and only filled 1/4 of tube and got that decent hit with some other hot air ones that felt like there was a little something there. But when i emptied it out this morning a small amount is dry but the majority is still has 'chewy' texture and i think later (as i have done before) it will give me more hits in da buddha. I would expect a unit of this price and build to finish the job as the iOlite does every time. I'll keep trying different combinations etc as realise it is a suck it and see situation and expected it not to be as straight forward as the iOlite ( because of set temperature) but did not expect it to be this big a learning curve.

If you remember started with revolution but did definitely not deal with pollen, I may try some da buddha oil when I clean it out to see how it handles that.... x
 
glenda,
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adam w

Well-Known Member
Hey All, just stopping in and thought I'd share my thoughts on the Revolution. Sweet piece. I do Vaporizer reviews in my spare time so subscribe if you have a youtube account. I will have videos up very regularly.


Lol @ "Its who I am...It's what I do..It's my job"

Just a note on your video, the button to slide and activate the heat rests in a default off position to avoid it turning on in your pocket, according to TV.
 
adam w,
Well after a few weeks trying this out, I'm yet to be convinced. the build is great but its hard work getting a decent hit of pollen, you get one but most of time it tickles you but does not hit you... and boy does the whole thing get damn hot before you do. on other units i hear warm up time of 10 - 20 seconds, on this at least 30 and more, when you feel the heat through the battery casing it's ready lol

I prefer its build to the iolite but you got reasonable hits and a vapor trail, with this you get mild trail or just the taste and obviously it will never match the hits or vapor through my da buddha

jury is still out, i'll keep trying, I'll have to for the dollar it cost ;o) x

Understood, it's not easy. Pollen and Kief are far from ideal, bubble works better in my experience and it's in it's own with oils and waxes. But it's the best vape going for the job if you can get it to perform well. I think the key is technique, principally keeping solid contact with the ceramic. I found mine works best kind of dirty and gummy. That is fresh cleaned is not as good. I do 'batches' making a ball about half the diameter of the tube. Between hits I use a wooden toothpick and scoop the mass up and knead it against the wall a time or two before poking a fresh surface down for the next hit. It does indeed get hot, but it's designed to to a large extent. If the mass is warm and the contact good you can get vapors with less extra heat which not only keeps it a bit cooler by extends battery life. I only got good results when I said 'screw the battery life (for now)' and concentrated on the heat part.

Heat transfer is clearly the key, we need to get the THC locked inside up to the magic temperature. Thinking out loud for a minute, how about making a paste with say peanut oil (stable at our temperatures)? I bet that would improve heat transfer......

OF

I've never tried straight pollen or kief in my dart, but I would imagine that they're tougher to use than oils and waxes. Personally, I prefer not to even use full melt hash in my dart.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the heating core has 2 ceramic discs and the bottom one is meant to be a reservoir? If the load doesn't completely melt and soak the disc, then I imagine performance would be less than optimal.

The ultra and ultralite can definitely get really got, but I haven't had my dart+t1 handle get so hot that I had to set it down. Again, I think the type of concentrate used will determine the warm-up time and consequently the temperature of the body? With wax, I typically have to warm it up for only 10-15 sec.

One thing I can say for sure- it's gonna be hard for another device to knock the dart out of my rotation. Although it needs to be loaded more frequently than d9 carts, the flavor of the vapor from the dart is super clean. It's my device of choice for vaping PG.

Edit: Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I think the design of the dart loader is genius.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the heating core has 2 ceramic discs and the bottom one is meant to be a reservoir? If the load doesn't completely melt and soak the disc, then I imagine performance would be less than optimal.

Close, there are two pieces, the disk you can see and a ring around the heater just under it. Both are the same porous ceramic both serving as reservoirs provided the goods will melt as you point out. Pollen, keif and to some extent bubble and other hashes need to depend on conduction heating from actual contact so are slow and need to be constantly stirred.

The OP in this adventure is in the UK, no oils but has pollen available. The current goal is to use Evolution to do convection vaping, but it seems like it may be all going up in a quick flash (I'd think do to the fine texture and low mass?).

I was trying to draw on my frustrating experience with Revolution but the best I can come up with is the THC is getting out in 'one hit'. Well most of it anyway?

OF
 
OF,

Krazzykid

Well-Known Member
I would just like to point out to glenda that it is extremely easy to go from pollen to a hash oil using isopropyl alcohol. It's pretty much just soak, shake, filter, and evaporate. When using pollen it can be just as good as any butane hash oil.

That is if you still have your revolution. Can't remember if you still have it or traded it in.
If you still have it that would be the way I would go without a second thought.
 

ictus

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,
Currently TV is sold out of most products, but I figured I'd take the time to figure out what I should get from them.

I bought an INH004 and after being initially excited about it, I don't think it is what I was expecting. I really like what I see about the TV stuff, but I honestly find it confusing.

They say all their stuff works with all their other stuff... well I don't understand how the Low Voltage stuff works on the regular T1 base? It's 3.7v does that mean just 1 battery instead of two in series? How does the user change between those different voltages on the same T1?

Also... I've never done anything with "Oils" of any kind. My first thought is that this is only for people with some kind of Medical prescription... can anybody make the oil themselves?
 
ictus,

Krazzykid

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,
Currently TV is sold out of most products, but I figured I'd take the time to figure out what I should get from them.

I bought an INH004 and after being initially excited about it, I don't think it is what I was expecting. I really like what I see about the TV stuff, but I honestly find it confusing.

They say all their stuff works with all their other stuff... well I don't understand how the Low Voltage stuff works on the regular T1 base? It's 3.7v does that mean just 1 battery instead of two in series? How does the user change between those different voltages on the same T1?

Also... I've never done anything with "Oils" of any kind. My first thought is that this is only for people with some kind of Medical prescription... can anybody make the oil themselves?

It can be a little confusing for a newcomer for sure. I had to read through this entire thread to understand everything. Lots of useful stuff in here.
First off, yes everything they carry can be used with (just about) everything, sometimes an adapter is needed which they sell. The LV models are designed to be used on probably already owned 3.7v ecigs(such as ego or other brands). That being said they also sell the alpha ultra and ultra lite 3.7v bases.
You can use the T1 base as 3.7v but you will need a larger 3.7 battery or a battery spacer to fill the gap, which will add to the cost.

The LV models function the same as the normal, just designed for 3.7v.
Yes anyone can make oil themselves it just takes a little knowledge and SAFETY.

Sorry if that doesn't make sense but someone else more knowledgeable will chime in I'm sure

Edit: You could also just shoot Thermovape an email explaining exactly what you need to accomplish and they will steer you in the right direction. They are a very helpful bunch of people and won't do you wrong.
 
Krazzykid,
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PB88123

Vaporist
Hey guys,
Currently TV is sold out of most products, but I figured I'd take the time to figure out what I should get from them.

I bought an INH004 and after being initially excited about it, I don't think it is what I was expecting. I really like what I see about the TV stuff, but I honestly find it confusing.

They say all their stuff works with all their other stuff... well I don't understand how the Low Voltage stuff works on the regular T1 base? It's 3.7v does that mean just 1 battery instead of two in series? How does the user change between those different voltages on the same T1?

Also... I've never done anything with "Oils" of any kind. My first thought is that this is only for people with some kind of Medical prescription... can anybody make the oil themselves?

The regular T1 base is the 6v (Standard Voltage) that takes 2 RCR123A batteries. If you want some more hits per set of battery you will want the low voltage core for the T1 and a low voltage battery. You can unscrew the standard voltage core and screw in the low voltage one and then switch out the batteries and you are good to go.

You can also screw in an adapter called the DART into the T1 base. You can buy an UFO mouth piece so when you put oil in you won't get any oil into the mouth piece when inhaling. You can make oils yourself and there is a ratio of bud to oil so the better your stuff the more oil you will get. There is another section on this site that talks about making them.

Their stock is low or out of stock as they are getting ready for their next generation.
 
PB88123,

Sleepy96

Member
So I see everyone saying they they are no longer making the DART. What does this mean for those of us that have one that need them repaired? (IE clogged ceramic that needs replaced). What am I supposed to do when they don't carry the DART parts anymore? Am I shit-outta-luck?
 
Sleepy96,

OF

Well-Known Member
So I see everyone saying they they are no longer making the DART. What does this mean for those of us that have one that need them repaired? (IE clogged ceramic that needs replaced). What am I supposed to do when they don't carry the DART parts anymore? Am I shit-outta-luck?

No, send it in, they will take care of you. Contact them for details.

OF
 
OF,
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jpdnkstr

Well-Known Member
No, send it in, they will take care of you. Contact them for details.

OF
I figured we wouldn't have any problems with repairs, my top ceramic piece fell out while cleaning. I will be contacting TET as well, and I can't wait to see the New gear from them!
 
jpdnkstr,
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