Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

OF

Well-Known Member
Just got my Evolution conversion kit, yet to fire it up as have to go in studio to record, so later ;o) before I read your answer I cut the volcano pads on edge in square and did get little pieces, but rolled it in my fingers to make small round slightly flattened wire ball (petite pois pea size) and intend to slide that down heating tube. The holes are not that big at the bottom I'm glad to see but can see the dustier elements of pollen would get in their.

Hello again. Thanks for the update. I know what you mean, when I first tried it I too used some wire cutters to nibble a chunk out of the side of the pad. It was in my HA and worked OK but the strands kept coming out with the spent load. Lucky the pads I got came two at a time. That's when I discovered the pull it apart idea. By cutting off a bit of the tube you get one long wire wound back and forth, it stays put in the tube and stuff (even burnt oil) doesn't seem to stick very well to it.

Please let us know how it works, others have the same constraints you do.

Thanks again and best wishes.

OF
 
OF,
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StickyShisha2

Well-Known Member
after running most of a gram of my "dark oil" through this lv tv dart cart, i loaded something tastier into it. i expected it to still taste like the reclaim but it didn't.
so, when do i "need" to clean it? i expected my dark oil to clog something, but it seems to work fine.

its more of a battery hog than i was ready for. i tried to do some multimeter tests to compare to a 1.5ohm Omi cart, but i don't really know what i'm doing with the tool. it seems to use the same amount of battery to vape 0.15g when testing, but out and about, i would use up my charge, which didn't happen with the Omi cart.
 
StickyShisha2,

glenda

underground artist and musician
Hello again. Thanks for the update. I know what you mean, when I first tried it I too used some wire cutters to nibble a chunk out of the side of the pad. It was in my HA and worked OK but the strands kept coming out with the spent load. Lucky the pads I got came two at a time. That's when I discovered the pull it apart idea. By cutting off a bit of the tube you get one long wire wound back and forth, it stays put in the tube and stuff (even burnt oil) doesn't seem to stick very well to it.

Please let us know how it works, others have the same constraints you do.

Thanks again and best wishes.

OF

you mentioning cutting of tube? is this in pad as not seen that, i went for cut , roll in fingers and shake method ;o) seems to shake of loose bits, i just over cut pad chunk to accommodate lossage lol The only concern with loose bits in them passing through holes to heater but this looks unlikely especially if you remove adapted pad while upside down.

only downside is they left out two of extra spare bits i purchased so will call them business hours commence across the atlantic

Its down to suck it and see lol and i will see when I get some mixing done to see if these vocals are any good, i think they are... ... hoping vaping with this hits the mark and puts icing on todays cake ;o)

thanks and enjoy x
 
glenda,

OF

Well-Known Member
i expected it to still taste like the reclaim but it didn't.
so, when do i "need" to clean it? i expected my dark oil to clog something, but it seems to work fine.

its more of a battery hog than i was ready for. i tried to do some multimeter tests to compare to a 1.5ohm Omi cart, but i don't really know what i'm doing with the tool.

Yup, pretty neat that way. Taste seems to 'vape away' pretty well, you can 'change tastes' pretty quickly. I only clean mine when production drops because it won't 'melt in' well any more. Sometimes I go too long and have to boil it a couple of times between ISO soaks. Remember there's 20/20/20 burns available if you really get it gummed up.

There's about 1.5 Ohms so they are on par with 1.5 (not 2.4) Ohm Omicron carts. However they also take more heat to 'get going' since the mass is bigger (Omicron only heats a drop and a bit of wick). Against that is a couple of fat hits will beat a pile of little sips from Omicron.

IMO the two complement each other. Doob tubes and thread adapters let you have the 'best of both worlds' handy to follow your whims.

Good luck, enjoy the getting acquainted part. I'm betting you become fast friends.

Its down to suck it and see lol and i will see when I get some mixing done to see if these vocals are any good, i think they are... ... hoping vaping with this hits the mark and puts icing on todays cake ;o)

thanks and enjoy x

You're welcome, fingers crossed for you. I tried it with some unpressed kief and got good results. The dregs were gooey and stuck together well and were very easy to dig out with a toothpick.

I love the 'suck it and see' bit. I used to work with a bunch of Brit Experimentalists (a class of scientists), it was a common expression there, I picked up. I won't tell you how it got me in trouble when I absent mindedly used it at the wrong time with the wrong bunch.....

OF
 

glenda

underground artist and musician
Yup, pretty neat that way. Taste seems to 'vape away' pretty well, you can 'change tastes' pretty quickly. I only clean mine when production drops because it won't 'melt in' well any more. Sometimes I go too long and have to boil it a couple of times between ISO soaks. Remember there's 20/20/20 burns available if you really get it gummed up.

There's about 1.5 Ohms so they are on par with 1.5 (not 2.4) Ohm Omicron carts. However they also take more heat to 'get going' since the mass is bigger (Omicron only heats a drop and a bit of wick). Against that is a couple of fat hits will beat a pile of little sips from Omicron.

IMO the two complement each other. Doob tubes and thread adapters let you have the 'best of both worlds' handy to follow your whims.

Good luck, enjoy the getting acquainted part. I'm betting you become fast friends.



You're welcome, fingers crossed for you. I tried it with some unpressed kief and got good results. The dregs were gooey and stuck together well and were very easy to dig out with a toothpick.

I love the 'suck it and see' bit. I used to work with a bunch of Brit Experimentalists (a class of scientists), it was a common expression there, I picked up. I won't tell you how it got me in trouble when I absent mindedly used it at the wrong time with the wrong bunch.....

OF

lmao

Yeah some of us British are very resourceful....

Jus fired Evolution up to help me deal with listening to and mixing my vocals, gets a bit much hearing same song and words over and over again lol

Did as I said, used the pea sized bit of V-pad, made it slightly bigger for snug fit so bits don't migrate down the side and UNLIKE the first time with the REVOLUTION, the first time I fired this up it worked. i gave it a good 10 seconds before I took a hit and then long and slow as I always do so not too much heat been drawn from element and low behold instant hit and clear vapour trail.... CONVECTION is way to go for solids, very happy, think this will last years.... was a couple of bits that were slightly blacked on very edges, very minimal but thats just a learning curve and knew technique and getting to know your device and substance would be essential to avoid this and get decent vapour hits.

...I'm old fashioned lol expect that if I pay a premium price for quality build of anything that it lasts, and preferably 10 years to life ;o) iOlite is too fragile and your putting your 'medicine', in what I believe to be an aluminium bowl, has always troubled me.

I hail the THERMOVAPE EVOLUTION king of the portable, stealth, easy hits and hardcore durability.... you can drop the thing, throw it etc and it still works and if not can be easily fixed with inter-changable parts...design at its best. I did consider the ARIZER SOLO, which from my research is the only other Vape to consider beside TV and iOlite, but there is too much technology, flashing lights, it's fragile and you cannot drop it plus beeps which does not make it a true portable device, to be portable you need stealth, durability and portability in our law drenched lives ;o)

For cleaning do you soak in ISO and then boil or use a combination of both depending on state of TV-E?

Thanks again

x
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I hail the THERMOVAPE EVOLUTION king of the portable, stealth, easy hits and hardcore durability.... you can drop the thing, throw it etc and it still works and if not can be easily fixed with inter-changable parts...design at its best.

For cleaning do you soak in ISO and then boil or use a combination of both depending on state of TV-E?

Thanks again

Outstanding! Gotta love you Brit's ability to exploit this strange language we pinched off you way back for clear communication. No mistake in your results or opinion!

I agree with you, I want my gear 'rock simple and tough as nails'. And made in a Craftsman like manner. It's a tool, not a piece of artwork. I think TV is on board with that idea. We Yanks of the west have an expression about fences, they should be "bull strong, horse high and hog tight". That, I think, you now have. Use it with pride.....but discretely of course.

I usually do both. ISO soak first (maybe 3 to 5 minutes in the same vial I've been using for some time), once softened up a boil for 5 or 10 minutes flushes it out well and completely eliminates the alcohol. Draining it hot drys it fast as well. I usually boil a pan of water, steal enough to make a cup of Earl Gray and drop the bits in the pan. When the cup of tea is done, so are the parts.

You're very welcome, glad it's worked out well 'over there'. As, I'm sure are others. Thanks for passing the good word.

Best regards.

OF
 

Sleepy96

Member
The cores are not serviceable, But for $15 you can send it in and we will rebuild it to new functionality!

e-mail us at sales@thermovape.com and we can get you setup.

Cheers,
Tim

Well it looks like I'll have to do that soon! I think my ceramic may be past cleaning at this point, Its pretty gummed up. lol. Does anyone have any suggestions on really cleaning it out before I try to send it in?

Thanks!
 
Sleepy96,

glenda

underground artist and musician
Outstanding! Gotta love you Brit's ability to exploit this strange language we pinched off you way back for clear communication. No mistake in your results or opinion!

I agree with you, I want my gear 'rock simple and tough as nails'. And made in a Craftsman like manner. It's a tool, not a piece of artwork. I think TV is on board with that idea. We Yanks of the west have an expression about fences, they should be "bull strong, horse high and hog tight". That, I think, you now have. Use it with pride.....but discretely of course.

I usually do both. ISO soak first (maybe 3 to 5 minutes in the same vial I've been using for some time), once softened up a boil for 5 or 10 minutes flushes it out well and completely eliminates the alcohol. Draining it hot drys it fast as well. I usually boil a pan of water, steal enough to make a cup of Earl Gray and drop the bits in the pan. When the cup of tea is done, so are the parts.

You're very welcome, glad it's worked out well 'over there'. As, I'm sure are others. Thanks for passing the good word.

Best regards.

OF

Greetings Again

Language was made to be pulled about and recreated... ;o)

Thanks for further info on cleaning

I will say I find the extended mouth piece is better so far as greater air flow than one it came with, so better hits. It does get rather hot, even the switch/battery compartment. You need at least 15 secs before you begin to pull and switch is on most of time except when vapour trails seem to heavy, don't want blackening of pollen and it not to be pure vapour, so let off switch briefly to bring temp when required. As it is solid and heat needed batteries last for 1-2 'bowl' fulls, a small pinch.

enjoy your day x
 
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Bob Loblaw

Astralnaut
Well it looks like I'll have to do that soon! I think my ceramic may be past cleaning at this point, Its pretty gummed up. lol. Does anyone have any suggestions on really cleaning it out before I try to send it in?

Thanks!
20-20-20
20 min in iso
20 min boil
20 times off and on every 20 sec. hold button down to heat up unit.
there are also other instructions on tube flushing in this thread iirc
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Language was made to be pulled about and recreated... ;o)

Thanks for further info on cleaning

You're welcome, although I doubt you'll need cleaning for some time to come.

I'm not so sure how much language should be 'modified' vrs followed. We've had some disastrous flirtations with 'Ebonics' and other liberties being substituted for actually learning to use the rules everyone else does. Whole generations of the most vulnerable of our young ended up communicating in what others saw as nonsense, unable to fill out job applications and other necessary things......but with soaring self esteem. I'm not big on 'Cambridge English', but IMO folks should learn to spell and use the same punctuation as everyone else they're trying to communicate with.....more or less.

A fun trivia bit regarding language. Didja know that early on (for us as a young nation) there was a huge debate on what to use for an official language? We narrowly 'escaped' German as a (second) official language! The 'Pennsylvania Dutch' being a large and vocal group from the start. The US speaking German.....I bet the world would have turned out a little different had that happened.....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_language_in_the_United_States

Cheers.

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
20-20-20
20 min in iso
20 min boil
20 times off and on every 20 sec. hold button down to heat up unit.
there are also other instructions on tube flushing in this thread iirc

Cool enough. I think more than a few minutes in ISO doesn't buy all that much more, could be wrong. And 20 minutes boiling seems over long, but like chicken soup 'can't hurt, might help'.

The 20/20/20 drill I was referring to is the last. Fresh battery, empty, 20 seconds on, 20 off, repeated 20 times. Gets it good and hot. I usually go ISO then boil afterward to wash out anything broken loose by the burn.

OF
 
OF,

Bart

Well-Known Member
Just tasted my first abv qwiso from my dart.
A tad harsh but wow that knocked the edge off a bad day.
Concentrates are all but extinct where I live. Been playing with t1 and evo while saving up for a run of my own.
First impression of dart. It's amazing.
Might shoulda only hit it twice though.
Comatose medicated
 

OF

Well-Known Member
First impression of dart. It's amazing.
Might shoulda only hit it twice though.
Comatose medicated

Very cool, glad you found it. Bummer about not having good concentrates to feed it.......

Live clean, think good thoughts, maybe the oil will find you.....

OF
 
OF,

Bart

Well-Known Member
My state will be the last I'm afraid.
They just made it legal to buy alcohol on Sunday. But only after 12.
That doesn't bother me much. Alc is right up there with pharmaceuticals.
Stuff I don't care for or want in my life.
 

VirginHarvester

Well-Known Member
Hi all, new DART cart user. Just joining the discussion, will go back through the thread and see what I can learn about the DART specifically.


Had been using Omicron v1 and thought the worst of it. Switched to a different base unit because the Omicron was so underpowered. So my configuration was a variable voltage base and Omicron carts. But the Omicron carts were consistently leaking and losing precious Pure Gold oil- it was a mess, a loss of great meds, and cost me money a lot of money on top of the already overpriced and weak Omicron.

So, thanks to some good advice I am using a variable voltage base unit and the DART low voltage cart. I like it, perhaps a lot. But I'm not quite there yet as far as loading it and heating. So I'll be popping in with some questions occasionally.

One question I have right now is, how do you load yours? I have been trying to use the DART but it seems like it does not pull enough oil out of the vial. It gets coated, which is good. But then when I heat base unit it the oil on the DART stem(?) doesn't actually melt off onto the ceramic disk easily. It would be nice if that happened, then I would dip the DART again and repeat this until I have a full enough chamber to session a few times. But that's not happening.

Would I be better off actually dripping a drop of oil onto the disk rather than trying to dip the dart several times? Also, any reason I could drop a "glob" of budder/wax onto the ceramic disk when that's what I want to vape? The object is to get medicine into the chamber and down onto the ceramic disk, right?
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Would I be better off actually dripping a drop of oil onto the disk rather than trying to dip the dart several times? Also, any reason I could drop a "glob" of budder/wax onto the ceramic disk when that's what I want to vape? The object is to get medicine into the chamber and down onto the ceramic disk, right?

Howdy, welcome to the fun.

I agree, getting good results with Omicron and PG is not at all easy. I also assume you meant '....any reason I could not drop a...' above?

Yes, I drop PG 'down the tube' and onto the disk. 3 or even four drops from clean (should be between .15 and .20 grams total), a 1/3 of the half gram vial? When it runs 'out' (there's still a lot left, but production slows up) I add another drop (.05). The tip serves two functions, one is to direct condensate back onto the disk so it can be vaped again. Secondly it's a good way to add thicker concentrates. There it can easily hold .05 grams.

Good luck and enjoy the DART. IMO it's really going to work better for you with PG once you figure it out.

OF
 

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
Hi all, new DART cart user. Just joining the discussion, will go back through the thread and see what I can learn about the DART specifically. [...snip...]

One question I have right now is, how do you load yours? I have been trying to use the DART but it seems like it does not pull enough oil out of the vial. It gets coated, which is good. But then when I heat base unit it the oil on the DART stem(?) doesn't actually melt off onto the ceramic disk easily. It would be nice if that happened, then I would dip the DART again and repeat this until I have a full enough chamber to session a few times. But that's not happening.

Would I be better off actually dripping a drop of oil onto the disk rather than trying to dip the dart several times? Also, any reason I could drop a "glob" of budder/wax onto the ceramic disk when that's what I want to vape? The object is to get medicine into the chamber and down onto the ceramic disk, right?

What OF says.

I have an UltraLite base that I use with my DART, exclusively for PG. I don't use the DART extender at all though, just a mouthpiece directly into the DART core. I found that with PG, everything worked MUCH better without using the DART extender. (And how did you get the DART tip into the PG vial? My vials were much too narrow to allow me to dunk the DART tip into the PG). I purchase my PG in the .5g squeeze ampules now. That works out perfectly for what OF suggested (and exactly how I use my DART core with PG). You cut the very end of the ampule's tip off with a scissors, then hold the ampule just above the top of the DART core (so you can see what's coming out of the ampule, and where it's going when it drips into the core), and squeeze it gently until one drop comes out, and (if your aim is good) drops directly on the ceramic insert. I then turn the base on for a couple of seconds, just long enough for the PG to be absorbed into the ceramic (and beyond). Then I do the same thing again, loading a second drop. You can load three drops if you are going to start vaping right away, but I wouldn't load more than that, and I only load two drops if I'm putting the UltraLite in my pocket for later use. (It's warm enough in your pocket that if the UltraLite isn't perfectly upright, the PG can seep back into the cylinder, which wastes battery because you have to heat up the whole thing to get the PG to drain back into the main core). If you start using the ampules instead of the vials, a good trick is to cut down a medium (not the smallest, not the largest) paperclip to about 2mm-3mm, bend one end into a tiny loop, and use the straight end to plug the open end of the ampule until it's empty.

We had a discussion about the best ways to use PG in a Revo/DART/AVA earlier in this thread. If you have the time, reading the whole thread is pretty enlightening. Otherwise just click here to start reading from the recent PG discussion. You might also want to check out Jam's thread about the Alpha UltraLite. It's primarily about the hardware, but PG and other concentrates are discussed too.

The DART with PG is the most stealthy vape I have, with regard to smell and speed, and I love it. Vaping PG in a DART core is the way to go!
 

shredhead

Specialist
Trying to get my ceramic somewhat clean. Not havin the best of luck. did a 24 hour iso soak with shakes inbetween and changes of iso. boiled, iso'd again real quick (still discoloring of iso, only slightly tho) and boiled again. Doing a 20 20 20 burn but i feel as if the top ceramic needs a bit of a scrub? Any thoughts? I think its so gunked from when i first got it:lol:
 
shredhead,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
I miss my pure white ceramic too. Showed the orange glow of the coil below it nicely as well. Now I have to look in the little opposing gaps to see if the coil is really glowing.

Still, mine works just as well as it did when white. I have 2 LV cores and 1 SV core, and they're all the same. I just cleaned one of the LV cores. Half hour soak in ISO, with me manually picking the core up, letting the ISO drain out of the lower airholes, then putting it back to soak, every minute or so. Followed by a 10 minute run in boiling water. Then another ISO dunk, with no discoloring (indicating to me that there was no more resin inside). Works like new, only the ceramic is black (gray, really).

If you figure out a way to make it white again, short of sending it back for a new piece of ceramic, or maybe hitting it with a blowtorch, (both impractical), let me know. :)
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
I miss my pure white ceramic too.

Works like new, only the ceramic is black (gray, really).

If you figure out a way to make it white again, short of sending it back for a new piece of ceramic, or maybe hitting it with a blowtorch, (both impractical), let me know. :)

Yup, me too. The white was pretty, but didn't last long. It seems to get carbon stains very quickly in the tiny pores of the 'sponge' I put 'the glass' on it, it's really in there, not a surface deal.

As Brother HW so correctly point out is cosmetic, the unit still works just fine.

If you can get the ceramic out (needs a disassembly fixture to get it out, and a die an arbor press to reassemble.....) you can flame it. Torch it until it glows big time. That's what Tim showed me anyway when he was rewinding one of the prototypes. It was still a little dull and the glow was gone again in no time.

OF
 
OF,

shredhead

Specialist
Okay i just hit my "super-cleaned" windowless and it gave me a "brand new" hit:tup: better than any other cleaning I've done in the past. I fill the cartridge holder TV gives you with the PureFlow with iso and shake my cart inside it for a few rounds. I heard shaking isn't the best for it but Im quite careful. Seems to work really good.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
I fill the cartridge holder TV gives you with the PureFlow with iso and shake my cart inside it for a few rounds. I heard shaking isn't the best for it but Im quite careful. Seems to work really good.

Brilliant! I seriously doubt that kind of shaking will cause you any problems. Really slamming it around might, but its strong ultrasonic vibrations that seems to be the issues, not the same thing at all.

Great idea and news. Thanks much.

OF
 
OF,
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