Discontinued Thermovape Cera

OF

Well-Known Member
Whats wrong with the warranty you ask? (cut and pasted from actual warranty)

Cera heater is the most important part right?

An on/off momentary switch and ceramic tube with a fabricated nut in it is not.

Thanks very much, that's what I saw too. I still see noting alarming, surely nothing out of the ordinary with the policy?

Hard to say what "the most important part" is, and in this case it doesn't matter. Trouble shooting looks for the trouble, not some ranking of importance. We know from experience that the cores are very reliable, the problem areas are identified to be both the switch and strap, both subject to 'infant failures' like you experienced. Yesterday there was no problem to find, right? Something failed in service, that can be corrected easily and quickly as I think you'll find out soon.

Sorry about your friend's manners, can't help you there.

Thanks buddy.

I really REALLY enjoyed it yesterday and this morning at the beach. Now its dead.

6 months then a fail, I can deal with.

Like I said this thread convinced me to buy, so maybe these posts will be read by someone who is on the fence like I was...

As we've discussed here before, the nature of such in service failures is that there will be more early on. Devices, people and kittens tend to die early on or live a long and normal lifespan, it's the nature of such things. Looking at a calendar is not a useful clue in troubleshooting.

Any such device is way more likely to die in the first week than any other.

Since you've read this thread, and were persuaded by the positive experiences of others, hopefully other folks will find the same information and decide accordingly. I sincerely believe it's a superior product with a growing group of satisfied owners. I hope when this problem is sorted out and you get to actually using it you'll find it (and vaping) were a major step forward for you.

OF
 

Flightrisk

New Member
Thanks very much, that's what I saw too. I still see noting alarming, surely nothing out of the ordinary with the policy?

Hard to say what "the most important part" is, and in this case it doesn't matter. Trouble shooting looks for the trouble, not some ranking of importance. We know from experience that the cores are very reliable, the problem areas are identified to be both the switch and strap, both subject to 'infant failures' like you experienced. Yesterday there was no problem to find, right? Something failed in service, that can be corrected easily and quickly as I think you'll find out soon.

Sorry about your friend's manners, can't help you there.



As we've discussed here before, the nature of such in service failures is that there will be more early on. Devices, people and kittens tend to die early on or live a long and normal lifespan, it's the nature of such things. Looking at a calendar is not a useful clue in troubleshooting.

Any such device is way more likely to die in the first week than any other.

Since you've read this thread, and were persuaded by the positive experiences of others, hopefully other folks will find the same information and decide accordingly. I sincerely believe it's a superior product with a growing group of satisfied owners. I hope when this problem is sorted out and you get to actually using it you'll find it (and vaping) were a major step forward for you.

OF



Thanks OF.

Friend is hot and shes coming over with her crappy plastic vape to console me so all is well.



Ive vaped before and the Cera worked GREAT. For about 2 days.




I hate that MJ is still underground...

I hate how MJ gadget manufacturers and their products reflect this.

'nuff said
 

tavosvo

Active Member
Respectfully you are missing the point.

It needs to work regardless if I intend to use it as a novelty or not.

More so if someone DEPENDS on it to dispose medicine which luckily I am not.



$300 is a lot of money.

That will buy you a nice Android tablet.

If that Android tablet took a sh*t after 2 days you would be a little upset, no?


Respectfully, no. I didn't miss the point. Hit up TET; they will make it right and your device will be like all the others out there that work amazing and have happy owners. There are no unresolved issues to note.

And a $300 android tablet IS likely to crap out as I've bought a $500 one that sucked my balls out of the package. However, I returned it to best buy and they gave me a new one and violà here I am, happy as dog getting its nuts scratched.

Have some faith. Return your body and switch if you haven't tried the foil test to determine if switch is good or not. They will fix it. That's the best part. These guys care, and they will fix our shit. If I'm not mistaken, its a LIFETIME warranty. That's basically forever to me, so sounds like I'm covered. And even if a cart rebuild was $20 and I had to do it every year? HA I'm laughing.

Sorry you are bummed mate. I hope you see everyone is trying to make you feel better. You didn't buy a piece of junk. Send it back. Save your wax in your cart. Charge your batteries. And stalk the postman for the next week after you send it in, ready and waiting in anticipation of a huge wax vapor choker wherever you see fit.
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
One should expect to replace wheels when buying a car. Except these wheels get replaced for $15 and shipping to TV. I'll, uh, gladly be miserable with your unit if you decide to send it my way ;) (he says as he uses his ThermoVape Ultra and DART)
 

Flightrisk

New Member
Respectfully, no. I didn't miss the point. Hit up TET; they will make it right and your device will be like all the others out there that work amazing and have happy owners. There are no unresolved issues to note.

And a $300 android tablet IS likely to crap out as I've bought a $500 one that sucked my balls out of the package. However, I returned it to best buy and they gave me a new one and violà here I am, happy as dog getting its nuts scratched.

Have some faith. Return your body and switch if you haven't tried the foil test to determine if switch is good or not. They will fix it. That's the best part. These guys care, and they will fix our shit. If I'm not mistaken, its a LIFETIME warranty. That's basically forever to me, so sounds like I'm covered. And even if a cart rebuild was $20 and I had to do it every year? HA I'm laughing.

Sorry you are bummed mate. I hope you see everyone is trying to make you feel better. You didn't buy a piece of junk. Send it back. Save your wax in your cart. Charge your batteries. And stalk the postman for the next week after you send it in, ready and waiting in anticipation of a huge wax vapor choker wherever you see fit.


Thanks Brah.

The people in the forum are cool and going on a rant before I even hear back from them isnt fair so I will wait until resolution.

One should expect to replace wheels when buying a car. Except these wheels get replaced for $15 and shipping to TV. I'll, uh, gladly be miserable with your unit if you decide to send it my way ;) (he says as he uses his ThermoVape Ultra and DART)


$282.52 with tax and shipping to Cali (no battery or charger).

Dead within 48hrs.

Just sayin'
 

Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Am I the only one having problems? No. Read prior threads.

Refining the device? DONT-RELEASE-IT-YET

Jesus

If you go throught most of the threads in the forum, I would say the majority of them have problems/needs refinement after they are released. Beta testing gets rid of the major kinks but theres simply no way to know every problem that will arise after production begins.

Examples:

Arizer solo- after over a year on the market theyre on the 10th or so revision
Extreme Q has had multiple versions since release
Pax had to get redesdigned after release
Vaporfection came out with vivape 2 after about 6 months
VXH cloud had to get redesigned within a year of being released
Davinci redesigned to davinci 2
Wispr reworked within a year of being released


Im sure the list is a lot longer, thats just what immediately came to mind. I learned my lesson after the about 8 wispr replacements within 6 months. It sucks but thats the reality, now you know for when the next big vape comes out.

As for your comment about being pissed about an android tablet crapping out after a day or so, Im sure it would be annoying but I doubt anyone would be as pissed as you are about the Cera. If your android tablet crapped out after a couple days you could easily go to the store and exchange it. Its harder to do that in the counterculture market
 

BLAZING OG

Vaping is a way of life!
Meh fanboy'ish post.

I could care less if the toilet bowl material that Cera is built with is replaced with the stuff Dung Beetles roll up for hatch-lings.

I just want it to work.

After HESITANTLY spending $300 on another MJ fad gadget (and I have been through them all brah) I am not surprised its just another turd that craps out and/or loses its novelty after a couple of days...

No offense, but you made the decision to be an early adopter, get it fixed, or sell it and be done with this useless angry rambling!!!!!
If you took just a second to listen to yourself, " oh she worked great for the first 2 day"
Maybe you got an out of spec unit? it happened to me!...........but Now Iam blowing all my friends pens out the water!!!!!!!!
I dont want to sounds like a prick, because I do feel your pain(trust me), but if you can wait to get her fixed up and then make your decision.
Not every person in the world is gonna love the cera. I honestly sold my dart thinking it didnt work properly,My cera EO will go to the grave with me lollol!!!
Have some patience my friend, and i do believe youll be happy!!!
Are you local???? If so, Ill let you take my cera for a spin to let you decide if shes up to your standards!!!

Well I'm not complaining.
Just giving my opinion.
I have built a power supply that suits me better even with the ghetto switch setup.
Darb, id love to know the size and nut to make this!!!!!
sounds awesome !!!!!
It might have been mentioned before, but is any one interested in a diy step by step on building that cool copper body,might be helpful for people with broken cera bodies!!!!
I thnk i want to build one and order another core to ri=un on it !!!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Darb, id love to know the size and nut to make this!!!!!
sounds awesome !!!!!
It might have been mentioned before, but is any one interested in a diy step by step on building that cool copper body,might be helpful for people with broken cera bodies!!!!

3/8-24 threads (NF). Quite standard, but not all that common. McMaster Carr carries a wide assortment.

An issue for DIY is securing the nut. The design in question involves silver soldering (past most guys abilities IMO). The adapters I'm messing with typically need soft soldering, not a lot better really.

OF
 

VaporTech

silently seeking
way to go JoeK and Darb those are sweet.

Quick question aside, would the PCB protected zombie response cells work in the cera? These here. Because...well, zombies. do the protected cells really make fully 10% less power?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Quick question aside, would the PCB protected zombie response cells work in the cera? These here. Because...well, zombies. do the protected cells really make fully 10% less power?

I'd think they work OK but will most likely not give top performance. Many/most of these guys were tested by TV and not chosen, usually for the very reason you cite: internal resistance added by the PCB lowers the full load output voltage a little bit extra so the current follows it down and the product of the two, power, suffers. The capacity, in mAh, is just fine, it's just that the voltage 'sags down' a little more than with the preferred types (which they also seem to carry?).

If you're after best possible performance I'd stick with the exact models TV sells, they selected them for sound reasons. These guys are likely not far behind, but behind none the less?

OF
 

YeeeBuddy

Well-Known Member
Meh fanboy'ish post.

I could care less if the toilet bowl material that Cera is built with

LOL since when do they make toilets out of zirconia?


Also what i meant to say earlier was I read the warranty again and didn't notice anything suprising. Like others have said I think its more than fair, yea 15$ to rebuild your core if it dies after a year, OUCH.
 

BLAZING OG

Vaping is a way of life!
3/8-24 threads (NF). Quite standard, but not all that common. McMaster Carr carries a wide assortment.

An issue for DIY is securing the nut. The design in question involves silver soldering (past most guys abilities IMO). The adapters I'm messing with typically need soft soldering, not a lot better really.

OF
Thank you to OF, JoeK, Darb, Pipes & any one crafty enough to mod and share with us !!!!

Now, would you not recommend some type of epoxy to secure the nut??????? (if its out of the air path, is this even possible?)
Just thought about the epoxy, it might not be conductive, not sure if that would even work???!!!!
HMMMMMMmmmmmmm:\
Thanks again for any info!!


Oh, and the body is that 1/2" copper tubing?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thank you to OF, JoeK, Darb, Pipes & any one crafty enough to mod and share with us !!!!

Now, would you not recommend some type of epoxy to secure the nut??????? (if its out of the air path, is this even possible?)
Just thought about the epoxy, it might not be conductive, not sure if that would even work???!!!!
HMMMMMMmmmmmmm:\
Thanks again for any info!!


Oh, and the body is that 1/2" copper tubing?

You're welcome.

Epoxy would be a problem heat wise, it gets pretty hot up there, especially with LL use. Also, as you point out conduction is an issue. Soldering it is probably best for both those reasons. You can also drill and tap the flats on a nut and use small machine screws to bolt it in place. I trust you see why I keep coming back to soldering? The adapters I'm making these days need a file, small torch, hacksaw some Teflon tube from McMaster Carr and a piece of brass rod from the hardware store. And a hand reamer to open the hole in the 510 threaded fittings I'm using to fit the PTFE tube in.

Darb is using 3/4 inch copper I think (it's rated by nominal inside dimension although there are 3 standard thicknesses and the outsides of all 3 are 7/8 inch. Confusing. The nut is hard soldered into a reducer (3/4 to 1/2 inch which has and OD (and therefore ID on the reducer) of 5/8 inch, just about perfect for a small pattern 3/8-24 nut 'across the corners').

I think you'll also need a short piece of pipe, being as it comes in 20 foot 'sticks' you'll no doubt be looking for someone to sell you a foot or so? Plan on sawing and file dressing the ends, tube cutters will distort the end too much I think?

You might have some luck on a solderless version using a flange nut inside a 3/4 to 5/8 reducer counting on the flange to make solid contact against the wall, something I've been meaning to look into. You'd need to cut the reducer back some so the cart could screw on I think although there are some sweat pipe connectors that have a raised lip inside to center tham that might catch the flange and let cart pass through? There's also options using a thin nut and 3/8 washer instead of the flange nut..... Lots to play with.

However, I caution that TV has something up their sleeve that may well address lots of these issues. They are not stupid nor ignoring folks. The idea of a lighter, more compact, less fragile body for the mini Cera is no doubt a consideration don't you think? Why else would the tell the world they planned on making one even before delivery of the Cera? And following that they intend an adapter family that's sure to include new adapter pieces for the Ultra and T1 bodies using the larger thread size of the Cera cart. Putting a Cera cart on your T1 or Ultra body in a clean way would solve a lot of problems.

Fun stuff for sure.

OF
 

BLAZING OG

Vaping is a way of life!
You're welcome.

Epoxy would be a problem heat wise, it gets pretty hot up there, especially with LL use. Also, as you point out conduction is an issue. Soldering it is probably best for both those reasons. You can also drill and tap the flats on a nut and use small machine screws to bolt it in place. I trust you see why I keep coming back to soldering? The adapters I'm making these days need a file, small torch, hacksaw some Teflon tube from McMaster Carr and a piece of brass rod from the hardware store. And a hand reamer to open the hole in the 510 threaded fittings I'm using to fit the PTFE tube in.

Darb is using 3/4 inch copper I think (it's rated by nominal inside dimension although there are 3 standard thicknesses and the outsides of all 3 are 7/8 inch. Confusing. The nut is hard soldered into a reducer (3/4 to 1/2 inch which has and OD (and therefore ID on the reducer) of 5/8 inch, just about perfect for a small pattern 3/8-24 nut 'across the corners').

I think you'll also need a short piece of pipe, being as it comes in 20 foot 'sticks' you'll no doubt be looking for someone to sell you a foot or so? Plan on sawing and file dressing the ends, tube cutters will distort the end too much I think?

You might have some luck on a solderless version using a flange nut inside a 3/4 to 5/8 reducer counting on the flange to make solid contact against the wall, something I've been meaning to look into. You'd need to cut the reducer back some so the cart could screw on I think although there are some sweat pipe connectors that have a raised lip inside to center tham that might catch the flange and let cart pass through? There's also options using a thin nut and 3/8 washer instead of the flange nut..... Lots to play with.

However, I caution that TV has something up their sleeve that may well address lots of these issues. They are not stupid nor ignoring folks. The idea of a lighter, more compact, less fragile body for the mini Cera is no doubt a consideration don't you think? Why else would the tell the world they planned on making one even before delivery of the Cera? And following that they intend an adapter family that's sure to include new adapter pieces for the Ultra and T1 bodies using the larger thread size of the Cera cart. Putting a Cera cart on your T1 or Ultra body in a clean way would solve a lot of problems.

Fun stuff for sure.

OF

wow, lots of info, love it!!!
Iam fortunate that one of my best friend's a plumber, so i have all that i need at my disposal!!!
Iam very excited that TET will have adapters to run carts on different bodies(Variable Voltage EO,LL,EL mmmmm) & a cera mini in a Titanium body or Stainless Steel would be dam sexy!!!!!!!!!!:mmmm:

The Effects of the Eo cart have me imagining a titanium or SS cera mini body!!!!!!:mmmm:

Imagine a futuristic cera made out of AEROGEL!!!!!!!!

htTjMIt.jpg


or one of my favorites
Amorphous metal

1O5G3N3.jpg


Amorphous metals, also called metallic glasses, consist of metal with a disordered atomic structure. They can be twice as strong as steel. Because of their disordered structure, they can disperse impact energy more effectively than a metal crystal, which has points of weakness. Amorphous metals are made by quickly cooling molten metal before it has a chance to align itself in a crystal pattern. Amorphous metals may the military’s next generation of armor, before they adopt diamondoid armor in mid-century. On the green side of things, amorphous metals have electronic properties that improve the efficiency of power grids by as much as 40%, saving us thousands of tons of fossil fuel emissions.
 

Darb

Well-Known Member
3/8-24 threads (NF). Quite standard, but not all that common. McMaster Carr carries a wide assortment.

An issue for DIY is securing the nut. The design in question involves silver soldering (past most guys abilities IMO). The adapters I'm messing with typically need soft soldering, not a lot better really.

OF
I just lightly hammered the nut into place. Had to grind the nut to about half the original thickness so the positive lead on the cart would stick out through. I got some silver solider yesterday and I will solider my next version.
 

darkrom

Great Scott!
$282.52 with tax and shipping to Cali (no battery or charger).

Dead within 48hrs.

Just sayin'


I had the same thing happen. I believe I got 3 days. They improved the battery tube based on customer feedback. They had it back to me within a week. It is all working great now. Give it a chance because if you can't see that this is NIGHT AND DAY better than those chinese Gpens then there is no need to even own this vape and I suggest you sell it and get a GPEN. However, from what I know about their poor materials and generic design you should be MUCH happier when you get it back. If not resell it on the forum here and I can guarantee it will sell. This vape is very much in demand, and I think if you give it an actual fair chance you will think it is worth it.


I've never once heard anyone say "I sold my TI nail setup after getting this awesome Gpen!" but that IS something we have been hearing with the cera. That has to mean something. Trust me I was just as frustrated as you are when my new cera failed, however I've had the joy of working with thermovape back when the T1 was out. I think the difference in attitude between me and you is probably because I know they WILL take care of their customers in a better than normal fashion.

Good luck and try to relax (tough I know when its not working). It will be worth it to you in the end, and if not you can probably sell it in the classifieds section in no time at all and use the money to buy TWO Gpens.
 

jdee

Well-Known Member
Just wanted to shout out iamn3ko for posting the ceramic screen + extended drip tip setup for the ll cart. It makes the ll cart so much more usable, better airflow, cooler vapor, and no more burning lips because of a too hot mouthpiece. I haven't even touched my oil cart since switching to this setup, and I honestly bought the ll cart as an afterthought, thinking it would not get much use at all. Color me pleasantly surprised, but I haven't had a need to use the cloud in quite a while, thanks to cera.
 

Skored

Well-Known Member
BMX handle grips work superbly for protection — thermal/impact — style too

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015FR1N8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another option for you guys is a rubber racquetball grip. These are nice and thin, but still handle the heat and provide a great grip. They are 1 inch in diameter, so they fit the Cera really well.

http://www.racquetballwarehouse.com/descpage.html?PCODE=PYGR

This is one company that makes them in a variety of colors. But check the site for other companies that offer similar grips with a variety of colors and grip patterns.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
As long as we're spitballing about whiz bang materials for vape use, I propose lowly graphite. As you probably recall it's first cousin to diamond, made of carbon exclusively, but linked in two dimensions (plates) rather than 3 (solid) like diamond. So the plates can slide past each other making it an excellent lubricant in some uses?

Well, large crystals of the stuff show electricity (and therefore heat) conducts very easily down the layers but not so through them. That is heat transfers very fast on one direction (two actually) but not the third. By a huge factor, like 100 or more to one IIRC.

Think about this, a layer or two in the right place in a ceramic vape body like Cera could literally duct the heat away from one area (say just below the cart) to some other (say upward, away from your hand.....). This means heat no longer spreads down as fast as before and more is retained where it's needed.

Much easier to deal with the heat if 99% of it's going someplace else........

Fun stuff.

OF
 

Soflo

Only birdshit and fools
OF, I don't know where you get your info from, but I have been a glass blower for 12+ years and would never want graphite in my vape, it is VERY brittle, holds ALLOT of heat, and will get carbon dust everywhere it touches. I for one am all about a clean air path. No black dust in my lungs, thank you! If you are looking for heat dispertion why not look at lava rock type material, look up lava sheild, it is for automotive applications, but I'm sure you could eliminate the adhesive. I have been burned worse by graphite than glass. It definatly holds heat longer than glass.
 
Soflo,
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OF

Well-Known Member
OF, I don't know where you get your info from, but I have been a glass blower for 12+ years and would never want graphite in my vape, it is VERY brittle, holds ALLOT of heat, and will get carbon dust everywhere it touches. I for one am all about a clean air path.

I actually get a lot of my information the same as you it seems, by experience? A machine I worked on used just such a graphite foil as a beam stripper. It conducted huge heat loads away to the water jackets half an inch from where it was incandescent from beam strike. Pretty amazing stuff, not your run of the mill graphite, a single crystal oriented correctly.

Please don't put words in my mouth, I said "a layer or two in the right place in a ceramic vape body like Cera"..... The body, not the airpath. Big difference.

As far as 'holding the heat' there's really no such thing. It's a combination of two factors: specific heat (how much heat energy it takes to warm the mass up one degree) and thermal conductivity (how fast heat energy moves through it). They combine to form what we loosely call 'holding the heat'. Insulation (thermal transfer) and 'thermal mass' (how much heat per degree is there) are another way of looking at this kind of thermodynamics stuff. You've no doubt seen the glowing Shuttle tiles you can touch? Moderate thermal mass but very very little conduction. Fun stuff, years back I actually got a chance to pluck a glowing block of it out of a bucket of water.....pretty cool (at least on the outside surface).

I'm suggesting tasking advantage of a neat selective thermal conductivity property of the material. A barrier of the stuff should direct the heat to the side like a seawall does to a wave I'd think. I'd use it to transfer the heat from the ceramic bulk outward to the surface then coupling it to a good surface (like dark aluminum) to radiate and convectively remove it before it can conduct itself further downward to your hand and battery. No exposed graphite anywhere, right?

OF
 
quick question about the EO cart. i have noticed that with some oils there is what looks like oil which accumulates on the inner walls of the cartridge and will not vaporize or absorb into the ceramic. are they leftover waxes and other schmaltz that are indicative that i shouldn't use that oil in the EO cartridge?

also sometimes during extended sessions i find oil comes out of the mouthpiece, am i over-filling it?
 
llama_lorry,
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