Severmore
Well-Known Member
Nibbler T?
Discontinued Thermovape Cera
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
OF
Well-Known Member
OK, so, having brought the topic up, I decided to have a lash at this myself. Since it can be programmable I hope to use it for other tests I want to do (at much lower power levels and continuously) for another (non vape) project.
Thus far I'm able to read the voltage, check it's above a set level (to not over discharge the battery), then put a selectable resistance load on it for a selected time (seconds) representing using the battery in the Cera followed by a delay to rest (again selectable) before checking the voltage again. It's logging only load cycles where it passes the voltage test.
My plan is for two 'standard Cera discharge profiles' and would like Members to help me decide what they should be. I'm suggesting starting with EO, but both recommendations are welcome.
To start the discussion, how about 15 seconds of heat for the hit followed by say 30 secnds between hits? 10 seconds on, 45 off?
Other thoughts?
TIA
OF
Krazzykid
Well-Known Member
If you make it so it reads the battery resting voltage, battery voltage under load, and voltage being delivered to the load then I think you are on to something here. We could determine which battery performs the best and for the longest. This way you would also be able to determine battery sag and internal battery resistance.
Edit: Maybe after x number of hits you give it lets say a 20-30 minute rest to signify the end of a session as well
Edit: Maybe after x number of hits you give it lets say a 20-30 minute rest to signify the end of a session as well
Krazzykid
Well-Known Member
Assuming said testing equipment could perform these actions, and someone had fresh batteries from all being tested (and lots of time on their hands) we could keep track of the data over many charges/discharges. It could then be determined which batteries began to age and fail first by keeping an eye on the battery sag and internal resistance. These values will get worse over time, but how much time vs the cost of the battery is important too.
OF
Well-Known Member
OF
Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,
So, I've been toying with my battery tester kluge and already it's showing some interesting (at least to me) stuff about NCR18650 and CDR18650CH.
The fixture is programed to put a load (representing the EO core, about .90 Ohms total) on the battery for 15 seconds every minute (45 seconds 'rest'). I can watch the battery voltage on a separate meter, the controller logs the voltage at the start of each load cycle and also at 10 seconds into it (no load and loaded).
Both show nearly identical 'sag under load' numbers, about .45 Volts, basically what I measure on my Cera. I think it's a pretty test.
And both run nearly the same number of cycles between 4.0 and the 3.5 Volt cutoff I have programed (loaded voltage just above 3.0). There are more useful cycles above 4.0 but I matched the curves at that point. The first went 116 cycles, the second 109. However, in 'mid run' the NCR was slightly ahead (say .05 Volts) so it gets a boost mAh wise. It also 'looked better' at the end, so there's probably more cycles if I took it to say 3.4 or 3.3. Both fell at about .05 Volts per cycle, taking 20 cycles to drop .1 Volt on average.
The NCR also seems to have a slight advantage above 4.0 Volts but that's outside the data I analyzed as well.
Thus far, based on this one test, it looks like the two are basically a push????
OF
So, I've been toying with my battery tester kluge and already it's showing some interesting (at least to me) stuff about NCR18650 and CDR18650CH.
The fixture is programed to put a load (representing the EO core, about .90 Ohms total) on the battery for 15 seconds every minute (45 seconds 'rest'). I can watch the battery voltage on a separate meter, the controller logs the voltage at the start of each load cycle and also at 10 seconds into it (no load and loaded).
Both show nearly identical 'sag under load' numbers, about .45 Volts, basically what I measure on my Cera. I think it's a pretty test.
And both run nearly the same number of cycles between 4.0 and the 3.5 Volt cutoff I have programed (loaded voltage just above 3.0). There are more useful cycles above 4.0 but I matched the curves at that point. The first went 116 cycles, the second 109. However, in 'mid run' the NCR was slightly ahead (say .05 Volts) so it gets a boost mAh wise. It also 'looked better' at the end, so there's probably more cycles if I took it to say 3.4 or 3.3. Both fell at about .05 Volts per cycle, taking 20 cycles to drop .1 Volt on average.
The NCR also seems to have a slight advantage above 4.0 Volts but that's outside the data I analyzed as well.
Thus far, based on this one test, it looks like the two are basically a push????
OF
Sad to say that my cera will be sent back to TET for a third time now. I had it back for a week? two weeks? Worked beautifully. Then the core dies. Which I found extremely annoying since It was rebuilt along with the body(copper failed, was laser welded)according to the 'report card' they send when a unit returns from a repair. I say to myself, shit happens I have a brand new LL core that DOES work. I purchased as a back up so why cry about it. Same day the epoxy? Around the metal ring did not hold up anymore and the ring begAn to wobble and come loose.
I hold it with one hand most of the time to vape, but this was not an issue when I first received it. It now comes off completely ,I can only speculate what caused it. I also noticed that the metal ring was different from the one that it originally came with. Which was a good thing. The switch screws in smoothly now, as opposed to roughly when it first arrived. I would cringe every time I changed the battery, very annoying. The threads looked jagged in small areas.
Oh well, TET does respond and does act very quickly. I hope that this time it is fixed for good. Saw a post where a guy had to return it more times then me. Ouch! I have a new EO core arriving on Monday so it's a bit depressing, but TET will take care of it.
The customer service is real, and does meet the expectations that I had when I brought this product. I wan to love the cera lol but it seems like a love/hate relationship right now. May purchase one from the classifieds As a back up. There are some Nice looking ones out there. to anyone on the fence get the cera. It is a worthwhile investment. I can't wait to get it back
I hold it with one hand most of the time to vape, but this was not an issue when I first received it. It now comes off completely ,I can only speculate what caused it. I also noticed that the metal ring was different from the one that it originally came with. Which was a good thing. The switch screws in smoothly now, as opposed to roughly when it first arrived. I would cringe every time I changed the battery, very annoying. The threads looked jagged in small areas.
Oh well, TET does respond and does act very quickly. I hope that this time it is fixed for good. Saw a post where a guy had to return it more times then me. Ouch! I have a new EO core arriving on Monday so it's a bit depressing, but TET will take care of it.
The customer service is real, and does meet the expectations that I had when I brought this product. I wan to love the cera lol but it seems like a love/hate relationship right now. May purchase one from the classifieds As a back up. There are some Nice looking ones out there. to anyone on the fence get the cera. It is a worthwhile investment. I can't wait to get it back
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OF
Well-Known Member
Bummer. It is indeed epoxy and in kind of a tough spot, surprisingly. The steel ring and ceramic tube respond differently to heat. Being a ring makes it more complex (huge tensions but not much displacement, like a stiff bow might be). The upshot, as I understand it, is that lots of stress can show up on a flaw or even a too thick or thin part of the glue job. Add to this the strap and weld (that's the reason for the new ring, the new strap comes welded to it) and it's even more complex. IIRC right it got 'opened up' some early on (I don't recall which side changed but do recall Tim saying lots of nasty words trying to torch it apart at one time.....).
This is the first failure there I've heard of, and I try to pay attention to such stuff. Interesting, thanks. For sure you want to get it fixed. You need solid welds on the strap at both ends (it's a 3 piece assembly, fitted all at one shot now). I hope you have better luck from here on out. As you point out, a backup of some sort is basic. Having a back up Cera is a luxury few can claim......
OF
Hey OF I just came across this post from back in the day and was just wondering what are you and tweak are doing on TET's wall of fame (and just what is TET's wall of fame?ThermoCoreTim said: ↑
Well we didn't quite make the 50 for this shipment. But we are still here to get more ready for the AM pickup!
Cheers,
TimIf some one had hypothetically ordered on November 26th would their package be amongst those pictured, hypothetically?
J.D.......hypothetically it may be possible but I just thought I'd chime in and say that I ordered my unit on Nov. 20 and I did not receive a shipping notice. Congrats on your CERA purchase though!
) just as the Cera was first being shipped? Just peaks my curiosity.
OF
Well-Known Member
Hey OF I just came across this post from back in the day and was just wondering what are you and tweak are doing on TET's wall of fame (and just what is TET's wall of fame?
If you look close you'll see it's actually a dart board.
Those are winning targets.
OF
After 5 months of hit (and mostly) miss, with the LL cera for pollen, I`ve finally cracked it ! The trick is to use a grinder for the hash. Lights up every time now and goes on forever ! Job done but I nearly gave up out of frustration at one stage. Without grinding first, it is difficult to get any kind of vapour, whatever technique is applied, so the three steps works with solids if you grind it fine enough to start with.
Krazzykid
Well-Known Member
Sorry it took you 5 months to crack it, we would have been happy to help. It has been known that pollen and bubble hash are a treat in LL ever since Cera was just a test unit in OF's hands.
If you don't get it broke down then it is just the outside of the hash that is heating up, therefore not enough comes up to temp at the same time. Glad you cracked the code and can now enjoy it as it should be.
OF
Well-Known Member
I too am very sorry you 'didn't get the memo'. You've been missing out on real treat, as you've just found out. I found that bubble hashes the lump together into a gooey mass don't work anywhere near as well as the ones that don't. Same thing I think? Being true convection, if the hot air gets past the load, it gets past the load. It (the heat) is up the pipe and out of the game. Surface area is the key, the hot air has to touch or no joy.
Anyway, important insight, thanks for bringing it up. If it got past you somehow, you're sure to not be alone.....
OF
I used to crumble the pollen after warming with a lighter, the same procedure as in making a joint. After acquiring a strong metal grinder, I experimented with breaking small bits off and grinding a bowlful into powder. This seems to have made all the difference. Game on !
Krazzykid
Well-Known Member
Ah, must be the overall texture of your material. I use the same method of warming with a lighter for a second and then crumbling with my fingers and this works perfectly for me because it crumbles to powder with my hash/pollen.
Glad you are enjoying it.
OF
Well-Known Member
I tried it for a few times. I think it helps a bit but is rapidly overrun by the EO. It could do a much better job of 'holding it's own' against a DART. And the volume is so much higher with Cera, the ceramic insert gets covered with oil (sealed off) and needed cleaning nearly constantly.
I too found the ceramic top from the LL core to be the best for my use. I experimented some with the little metal UFO from the earlier products (like the DART loader, with the tip ground off), the results were OK but the tiny ports quickly jam with collected condensate. The ugly ceramic top is the winner, IMO, with the silicone cover.
OF
Czechyourhead
Well-Known Member
I too have found the LL ceramic cover works best. I tried a dart loader with the tip ground off, and it clogs way too fast to make it worth while. Every other mouth piece falls out in my pocket.
stickstones
Vapor concierge
Should I break out the old coffee grinder and pulverize my weed into powder for use in the Cera LL? Do you guys like to grind it that fine?
OF
Well-Known Member
Not normally quite that fine, but IMO it doesn't hurt as long as you don't pack it in really tight. The UFO does a great job of keeping the herb where it belongs even if it's very fine.
Give it a try, see if you like it?
OF
btka
Well-Known Member
For herb i found it better to be coarse... grinded to fine works better with conductionstyle vapes... if my herb was to fine it clumped together and in the middle of the bowl there will be a empty hole... i got bigger clouds and longer sessions with coarse herb.... but what will work for me maybe must not work for you... maybe you have an other draw technic then mybe fine would work better for you...
OF
Well-Known Member
I agree, guys should experiment.
However, I disagree with the two above objectives WRT to grind. First off, "bigger clouds" and "longer sessions" are mutually exclusive usually. That is doing either calls for more mass of bud to be used (at the expense of the other?), doing both at the same time without changing something else is not going to happen.
Up until you pack so tight you block air flow too much finer grind exposes more surface area to the hot air so will produce more 'vapor per gram' of load. Likewise, longer sessions need more grams of herb in the bowl to support them, favoring fine grind since it packs more herb (and less open spaces) in the bowl. Both bigger clouds and longer sessions are favored by grinding within reason 'if some's good, more's better'....as we used to say in the dynamite business.
OF