Thanks for your helpful advice Tim, Zeki got back to me by email this afternoon, explained the situation at hand and has me well on the way to getting my Cera in for repair.
A sleeve that the stock Cera slides into and has a slide lever that can press the stock switch might be a great solution for many.
Edit: a follow up from my last cleaning when dark sludge bubbled up after first fill after cleaning. I loaded approximately 1.5g over a few days with only light colored reclaim then black sludge. I heated and wiped sludge away until no more bubbled out, about .1g came out. I then vaped the remaining down to an almost dry ceramic and loaded a new oil. Full flavor of the new oil, I am finding this sludge bubble out to be a the easiest clean out and less wasteful then a full clean. The next step is to see how long this works before a full clean is needed, it has already kept me from 1!
i compared the main pic of the parts with the diagram of the switch and i can kind of see how it goes together... got me thinking of mounting a mini version of it in a rubber/silicone/sugru puck 5-10mm thick, relying on battery pressure to hold it in and attaching the female threaded switch through the safety pin hole. no materials though and i guess could cause resistance issues if the stainless used was too thin(even heat under these high drain conditions?). damn tempted to make the whole thing but in stainless cool male bayonet fitting on the battery cover too i thought, clever german geezer for sure!Hey Vapouring, welcome to the fun!
I think this is something for our friends here with the skills to copy it(you know who you are)
BTW what kind of packaging was it, the big jar with charger or just the tube with only the Cera?
I'm just asking because my Cera is on its way to me again, but now without charger/ wall plug,
so now its in this tube and I was a bit concerned if it is strong enough to take some impact/hits?
Herbalist23
Would love to see a video on this being done. Not exactly sure what your doing to do your clean out process, could you please give more detail?
just curious how often do you all of you do the full clean method? (the water,iso,water clean way) is there a visual sign I be aware of as a indication to clean?
It was a crazy idea but I put a shot of Everclear in my mouth and gently blew it through the core. It worked great but was not fun. Try at your own risk. Also I have noticed with the core if you keep the end that touches the battery clean by gently scraping it and a little ISO the connection is 100%. I had my core acting funny so I got a magnifier and had a closer look at the end that touches the battery, I noticed there was a small (almost microscopic) piece of what looked like the plating off the positive side of the battery. With some ultra fine sandpaper I gently buffed the core end and the battery positive end and my connection has never been better. Just a heads up for you guys the smallest of pieces(.) will affect the connection. Peace be the journey
I've given up on anything custom. $550 is the cheapest quote I received.
Does anybody know the exact diameter for the piece of stainless steel that screws into the body? How about threading? I think I'm going to buy a nice stainless steel pipe fitting and mount in a larger non-threaded piezo switch. It's 22 MM and it's rated for 5A DC which should be perfect.
Is there a way to check if the switch is bad? I believe I read somewhere about using tin foil. I have the newer laser weld strap so hoping it is the switch.
Clip from 420, was watchin it cause I miss my Cera lol
So the Cera works out of the box with a piece with an 18mm male joint? use glass adapters for other joints (18mm female, 14mm male and female?)
Easy to test. Unscrew the end cap, jam a walnut size wad of foil in behind the battery. You need solid contact with the bottom of the battery and the SS ring the end cap screws into.
Good luck. I was just by the shop and forgot to ask, but as of last week none of the soldered or welded straps had failed at the connections. If it's not the switch, the 'smart money' is on the strap breaking at the top where it takes the turn. It's glued to the wall and solidly attached to the plate. If it's too short or the plate too loose it breaks it seems?
OF
Thank you OF!
The bad news is my friend will not be getting his Cera until my body returns, all good for me though.
Edit: so if I understand correctly the strap is going to fail at the 90degree bend before it even attached to the nut?
So I take it the more heat and cooling going on the more stress the 90degree bend takes?
Lol, that's how I started and now look at me, it only leads to harder stuff.
Good point about the connection tip, soaks in various degrees of dirty alcohol can leave a residue behind, just gave mine a cleaning. Holy milk cloud batman, I owe each of my batteries an apology, I thought they where getting low in performance.
It was a crazy idea but I put a shot of Everclear in my mouth and gently blew it through the core. It worked great but was not fun. Try at your own risk. Also I have noticed with the core if you keep the end that touches the battery clean by gently scraping it and a little ISO the connection is 100%. I had my core acting funny so I got a magnifier and had a closer look at the end that touches the battery, I noticed there was a small (almost microscopic) piece of what looked like the plating off the positive side of the battery. With some ultra fine sandpaper I gently buffed the core end and the battery positive end and my connection has never been better. Just a heads up for you guys the smallest of pieces(.) will affect the connection. Peace be the journey
You're welcome. Sorry it's not the answer you wanted, but at least now you know. I'm not sure I agree about the bad new part, you get a unit to keep you going until the original returns and your friend gets a well checked out Cera, sounds like a win-wim more than bad news to me?
I've never actually seen a broken strap, only had the break location described to me a trip or two back when we were discussing what the failures they were seeing were. We thought it was the float issue, it didn't seem to happen while the strap was clamped under a split steel ring with an o-ring backing that up (had some 'give') but once it got soldered solidly instead this problem showed up. The heat cold thing we didn't consider, but I think it has merit. It should be easy to rig up a timer and supply to cycle power on and off to a core and see if we can force a failure that way......food for thought.
I'd intended to get into this area with 'the guys' but the talk about the new model took over instead. Then lunch time came and a couple of the usual suspects had to leave.....so I did too. I have to go back next week and modify some gear for them next week. I think I'll see if I can get this conversation going. Someting is going on that needs understanding I think, lots of units are humming along with heavy use, some with almost no hours are failing on the strap at that point.
Fun stuff. Frustrating, but fun. There has to be an answer if we can only ferret it out....
OF
My fingers and toes are all crossed for you brother I really hope it gets through to you I'm sure you will love it. I used to find myself inventing excuses just to touch her (hehehe sounds dirty).I was thinking the same (silence)
BTW, my Cera seems to be here in a few days (if the customs dont fuck me up again)
When it arrives I will make a review as well
I hope its getting more active in here again!
Just to mention, in case of another hold by the customs or if the Cera will maybe fail one day and need to be shipped back, I just ordered a MFLB as a backup
Herbalist23