Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
i feel like the latching switch wouldn't be as big of an issue if the button wasn't on the bottom, my two cents
Discontinued Thermovape Cera
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
Cera's back and just in time as her being gone was starting to cost me. Cera is an unbelievable herb miser — Let the savings begin!
Definitly! I noticed that in about 3 weeks my reserve has doubled because of Cera's superb efficiency in the LL department.
I am maybe a once a day oil user and a little bit of that shatter goes an extremly long way!
My other three vapes are collecting dust right now.
That happened to me too. Had to have a lot of pressure on the carts to make them work. Just call TET, shoot it back to them, and youll have it up and running better then ever in less then a week.
mod note: Please avoid back-to-back posts, use Edit instead. Two posts merged.
OF
Well-Known Member
Because nobody makes them?
The original test switches were custom samples, made from existing parts that have a nine month lead time (from France). I understand (but could be wrong) that even they didn't last long (I'm told I have the last working one).
Even if you remove the 'made in USA' restriction, there are basically no switches made anywhere in the world that fit mechanically and electrically. Lots of us have spent many many hours trying. It's a very demanding rating, the high current DC ratings are a deal killer. Some momentary ones exist, but for a host of technical reasons latching is very difficult (or the makers would do it).
This is not trivial. While you were wasting your time with lesser vapes TV shipped a bunch of dome top switches that started failing in service due to the high DC currents.....they had to recall/replace them all. This was an approved switch.
Noah told me that original switch took them a very long time to source, and it drove part of the design effort. Even after lots of evaluation and testing their selected momentary failed.
The switch I posted is the best fit I can find, it's electrically right (most important to me) but cosmetically bad.
So, the short answer is even if the Lawyers would let them, nobody can supply the basic switch part that suits the need? Not for lack of looking.....
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
I don't think that's the major concern, certainly not the only one. My Beta unit with it's latching switch and EO cart has made a big mess 3 times now. Left on and unattended they eventually spit the oil out.....all over as I hear it. Two of those was the same guy! Both guys had borrowed it, I've never done it personally, but it could very easily happen.
How'd you like to get a bill for new leather for some guys car? Me either. Once the possibility was identified, I can understand how the Lawyers would raise their hand? That's just an educated guess.
It's an obvious idea (in was included in Beta testing.....) but it has problems with oil that don't exist with LL.
For sure it's been exhaustively tried, feel free to join in the fun of finding the 'easy solution'? There's probably well over a hundred posts on this alone.
This parallels my experience. I've made several mechanical latches, even posted a couple here. I have a latching kluge I sometimes use for LL, but right now my Cera has the factory momentary switch with the EO cart.
I think it's an idea that has extra appeal to guys who've never tried it?
Then again, a guy needs some 'shortcoming' to pick on sometimes.......
As a Capitalist I'm confident that if it's possible and enough real demand is there it will happen. Until then Cera is still a mighty force to be reckoned with.
OF
Me too, shit, I can't even do it anymore. I tried some small girly hits and it just wasn't worth it.
No more combustion for me. Also need to thank OF for prodding me in the direction of the Cera. Seriously, thanks. For once I listened and it paid off.
Congrats! OF does some good work around here, top notch in my book!
hm.... sneeky little shot there.
I was about to post the same observation ("is that the mini"), but everyone beat me to it. If you look at a closeup of the blueprint (@2:00 and @2:38), rather than the image on the monitor earlier, you'll see the drawing of the Mini next to the Cera; don't know if they ever made a prototype though. It's also the first time I've seen the coil close up (@1:25 in), and I'm astounded how tightly wound it is (i.e., how close the turns are to each other). Gives me a new perspective on why OF has been saying how hard it is to bring the resistance up to 1.0Ω or higher!
Oh, and I suspect the reason you're seeing the top slide switch used once or twice is because some of the clips in this piece were shot before the decision was made to change the switch arrangement. Same thing with regard to the latching bottom switch. There is one section (@ 2:15) where the voice over is explaining how to use the Cera by "turning on the [bottom] switch for 30 seconds" (which is ambiguous as to whether she's talking about a latching switch or a momentary switch), while the video clearly shows the use of a bottom latching switch.
I miss Noah's clouds and smashes though.I hope he's doing well.
I miss the smashing too@
I have a good feeling about the larger diameter coil
IlmaoGlow in the dark would be pretty EPIC lol
Here's a little secret, yes you have to buy at least 50 to 100 but what I did was ask for a sample , and they sent them to me!!!
There were other websites that you can order 1-5 pieces, let me see if i can find it again!!!!
***EDIT***
Here are a few pics of my first attempt,I ran out of the clear silicone messing around so i had to add the black one to the end cap for now!!!!
A couple with the body sleeve i made and some with the full body sleeve including TET's mouthpiece cover(really looks like a woman's toy now)
And the tool I bought to make the holes, a standard hole punch probably would of worked!!!
**Edit#2**
without the momentary switch sleeve
Looking good!
There is something in the works, but its still dependent on the actual latching switch. Production of them is very low for the correct one and we need there to be a guaranteed amount we can acquire.
Update:
We got back a large batch of welded Titanium interfaces! They are in the process of being assembled and should start having them ship out this week to get all caught up.
For me I've been out of the shop a lot recently working on a few other projects, i apologize for not being on the forum as much to give you all updates. I'll try to get more updates out to you in the coming weeks as progress gets made.
Cheers,
Tim
darkrom
Great Scott!
Tim thanks for the response. OF made it clear to me that it was a "we are trying but its hard" kind of situation, which I personally respect a LOT more than a "we don't want to because some people can't handle it".
Once I know its due to actual difficulty I can be as patient as needed
Once I know its due to actual difficulty I can be as patient as needed
toros23
Well-Known Member
Tim thanks for the response. OF made it clear to me that it was a "we are trying but its hard" kind of situation, which I personally respect a LOT more than a "we don't want to because some people can't handle it".
Once I know its due to actual difficulty I can be as patient as needed
Yeah, that was kind of a pointless post by GR... Unless the point was to stir up the pot again..
darkrom
Great Scott!
Maybe he simply thought that was the case? I don't know I knew there were issues with it, but I didn't know why. It seemed like a decent guess IMO, I can see a company not wanting to risk the legal issues, but I knew thermovape could do it correctly, IF they wanted to.
Now they and OF have helped me understand that they are not opposed to it, they just need to do it correctly in a mechanical sense. I fully appreciate that honestly. I want a product that lives up to the thermovape name, not a crappy toggle switch that won't work as expected. If it can be done they will do it. They helped us tinker with the first gen of products, so I know they don't mind.
Does anyone know what kind and size bolts are in the LL core (4 tiny ones). Can they be tightened up at home?
OF
Well-Known Member
2-56 IIRC.
No, user tightening (or messing in any way) is not recommended. The word from TV is 'please send it in if needed'.
Do not tighten them up unless you know what you're doing. They thread through a thin tube inside and are stopped by a crimp on the screw. If you over tighten them a bit too much and you short the heater just under them. Likewise, being so shallow, they can cross thread like a big dog, so don't take them out and try to put them back in was Tim's advice.....FWIW I agree with it having been 'inside' the cores.
BTW, they're set screws, not bolts not that it matters....no heads.
OF
Now you have gone and hurt my feelings. However I agree OF gave a much better answer and takes most the emphasis away from attorneys, which is always a good thing IMHO.
Not trying to stir anything up at all, I just was giving my answer, been there done this, Lawyers have the last word in business, like it or not.
OF
Well-Known Member
Just for the record, guys, I also think a latching switch on the bottom is not always a good idea. And I have the advantage of having used both as few others have. Notice, though, than many of those who have used the Beta switch or mechanical gadgets agree with that stand as well. There are real risks with using it. This is a machine that can distract a fellow. Having it shut down when you pass out is a feature. It's not just to save battery that vapes time out, my HA does too, and it plugs in.......
As a 'use at your own risk' accessory I think it's fine, of course. But I'd ship with momentary switches.
OF
As a 'use at your own risk' accessory I think it's fine, of course. But I'd ship with momentary switches.
OF
Thanks OF. So would you say a little wiggle with the bottom screw is ok being that the unit is working properly? I think I'm gonna start switching the core with the battery out because the tightining of the LL core with the battery in there has a little friction which I think loosens the bottom thread of the core (second time this has happened) Should I just send it in? Your input is greatly appreciated
Thank you.
I am a little frustrated being without my Cera for two weeks now, I guess some of that stress came through although I did not intend it to happen.
IMO I was getting used to the switch, my fingers where building calluses where needed and strength was being developed, lol. I then discovered the switch did not need to be depressed fully to operate, slight pressure was only needed to activate the connection. This discovery coincided with the switch or the strap failing.
I agree with Bob that a side switch would be my preference, I am mainly an oil user so latching switch is low on my priority list. A side switch would allow more stealth and comfort. As for LL use I think a side switch would also be nice .
Had my Cera EO for a while now and I'm just letting everyone know it's a durable, reliable, and CONSISTENT vaporizer. As long as you have the perfect amount of concentrate within the core, you'll get great clean performance with little maintenance. If you add too much concentrate you'll find that it's easy to clog the air holes and it has a tendency to leak out of the core from the top if held at an unusual angle. This is not a problem at all if this happens though because the design of the mouthpiece is so ingenious it gives somewhere for the oil to go while still having airflow. Any leaked out from the core is enclosed in the mouthpiece design which allows for reclaiming easily when cleaning. I occasionally use a cotton ball to wipe the inside of the mouthpiece and the top of the core where oil is primarily condensing. I figure I can soak it in iso alcohol at some point and reclaim whatever I've collected from cleaning it. It's very user friendly and I love that.
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
make sure you are using organic cotton. many vapes will allow you to straight vape the cotton ball, cloud, 'cano, etc.
OF
Well-Known Member
Thanks OF. So would you say a little wiggle with the bottom screw is ok being that the unit is working properly? I think I'm gonna start switching the core with the battery out because the tightining of the LL core with the battery in there has a little friction which I think loosens the bottom thread of the core (second time this has happened) Should I just send it in? Your input is greatly appreciated
Yes, in fact that's a feature. That screw has a floating nut on the other end held in place by the heater behind that. It traps two insulating ceramic washers (one of which you see) in wells machined in the connector preventing the screw from shorting out. But with heat the ceramic parts expand more slowly (insulation) and to a lesser degree (lower "coefficient of linear expansion", a fancy name for the measure of the difference in expansion rates with heat of different materials, usually in '% per degree'). If it's tight cold it'll be loose hot. If it's loose cold, it'll be looser still. If it's snug hot, it's broken cold..... Don't worry about it, it's normal although some show it more than others.
Yes, I always pull the battery (or back the cap off enough) so the cart 'homes' on the plate. Stainless Steel doesn't 'slide well' without lube, Ti is even worse. The threads should be considered as holding rather than 'snugging up' (that is used as a stop, not a lever in machine terms). The much coarser threads on the end cap are much better suited to tightening up under load. Good call.
I think you're walin' in tall cotton. Enjoy it.
OF
Herbalist23
Well-Known Member
Hello everyone, I'm a long time lurker and a very first time poster (read since the first time of cera introducing- also the first thread, which was closed because of chaos)!
I hope I can join the fun soon, ordered my cera on march 2, so my cera reached my country but was stoped by the german customs two weeks ago!
They said I can't have it because TET don't put an CE certification and no operating instructions in it, also the plug and AC adapter would not be compatible whith the german current! So in the end they send back my cera!
Yesterday I mailed Zeki and he said they had an CE certification for the T1 and he will see what he can do!
Hopefully he can fix this!?
Just want to ask if someone else had similar problems whith customs in europe (I know some guys from Belgium and France also got their units, but anyone from germany ???)
I hope I can join the fun soon, ordered my cera on march 2, so my cera reached my country but was stoped by the german customs two weeks ago!
They said I can't have it because TET don't put an CE certification and no operating instructions in it, also the plug and AC adapter would not be compatible whith the german current! So in the end they send back my cera!
Yesterday I mailed Zeki and he said they had an CE certification for the T1 and he will see what he can do!
Hopefully he can fix this!?
Just want to ask if someone else had similar problems whith customs in europe (I know some guys from Belgium and France also got their units, but anyone from germany ???)
OF
Well-Known Member
Howdy. Welcome to the fun, I hope you get the unit you paid for soon?
Bummer the 'nanny state' thing has reared it's ugly head here, the CE issue is I think resolved, operating instructions and mandatory guarantees required in various markets often are more problematic. And, as you suggest, perhaps randomly applied?
AFAIK this is the first flat out rejection and return.....something I'm sure you're not proud of. Zeki's good folk, if it can be sorted out, he's your guy.
I hope the Cera finally makes it though all the layers of customer protection to the end user (you) who is fine with the product as offered. IMO Cera is worth the wait and extra effort.
Best wishes, hope to hear happy news from you soon.
OF
Delphi
Well-Known Member
I'm from England, I ordered a EO and LL on 25th April and it arrived 7th May, their was a public holiday in the UK last weekend, so it would have probably took around 9 days without the public holiday.
As far as UK customs, I had no issues at all, I paid my taxes on collection from the local postal office, no mention of missing CE mark or instructions.
However I didnt order any batteries or charger from TET, maybe because you had batteries/charger included in your order, this raised the attention of German customs ?
Maybe TET can resend it without the batteries/charger, and also include a print out of the FAQ on the TET website, hoping that these will cover as instructons.
Good luck in your quest.
Darb
Well-Known Member
And I thought Canadian customs sucked!! Good luck! I feel for ya.
Has anybody ever looked at these batteries?
18650 3.7V Panasonic Hybrid IMR CGR18650CH rechargeable battery cell is made for high current (max. 10A) applications. 10 Amperes is more than enough to run almost any high drain (high discharge current) electronic device.
It is an excellent choice for people who are looking for high drain IMR 18650 battery cells (Personal Vaporizer-Electronic Cigarette, Flashlights, or any application that requires high discharge current)
I use the Panasonic NCR18650A's today (double protected) and I think they're better than the unprotected ones that ship from TET. My current batteries only hit 6.2A. Is using a 10A battery going to melt my core, switch, (or hands)?
18650 3.7V Panasonic Hybrid IMR CGR18650CH rechargeable battery cell is made for high current (max. 10A) applications. 10 Amperes is more than enough to run almost any high drain (high discharge current) electronic device.
It is an excellent choice for people who are looking for high drain IMR 18650 battery cells (Personal Vaporizer-Electronic Cigarette, Flashlights, or any application that requires high discharge current)
I use the Panasonic NCR18650A's today (double protected) and I think they're better than the unprotected ones that ship from TET. My current batteries only hit 6.2A. Is using a 10A battery going to melt my core, switch, (or hands)?
nopartofme
Over the falls, in a barrel
Those are the ones that are being discontinued, that many around here are picking up wherever they can find them and hoarding. The best for the job right now.