Discontinued Thermovape Cera

[tavosvo]

Dropped my Cera on hard tile floor today and guess what happened?

Nothin', nothing at all.

Nice to know but I'd still be careful!! I dropped mine last week and chipped the top cap pretty bad in two places. Replacement piece $40. I'd be ultra bummed if I cracked the body.

I think the cap would break easier though, seems like a fall would strike it on an edge, maybe the ceramic is weak to shearing forces. This would leave the body safe on most falls but crack MPs. Prob explains how Noah was able to smash a beer bottle. At his desk. On his keyboard. Glass and beer everywhere.

 

[Breathemetal]

Come on Friday...please bring me mucho cash so i can dive into the TV world

 

[nopartofme]

Good news: I've been successfully re-vaping ABV (I know) using the Cera instead of the launch box as I usually do. High-temp vapor is certainly available.

The ABV I'm using was first vaped and then re-vaped in the MFLB and looks like very dark chocolate with flecks of milk chocolate, so it wasn't under-vaped in the first place, no sir.

 

[ekulaj]

Ill let them know to double check the info email, Sounds like it could be an intermittent issue, possibly the body. You can also give us a call at 888-428-VAPE

Thanks Tim, but still no reply. I called just now and couldn't get through either. I would have left a voice message, but I don't get reception most of the time so it's usually more of a hassle to try and contact me by phone. It does seem like an issue with the connection, but after investigating it multiple times it seems like there's contact where necessary...

 

[Rocco]

Good news: I've been successfully re-vaping ABV (I know) using the Cera instead of the launch box as I usually do. High-temp vapor is certainly available.

The ABV I'm using was first vaped and then re-vaped in the MFLB and looks like very dark chocolate with flecks of milk chocolate, so it wasn't under-vaped in the first place, no sir.

IM not alone! haha, I actually tried this myself last night for the first time. It wasnt bad as long as I didnt ride the line between vape and combustion too hard. Made for smooth hits compared to throwing her in the Vapor Genie for the re-vaping.

 

[coffinoff]

I just modded a BMX grip as a protective/thermal cover for my Cera being that I dropped it today on a tile floor. The grip works perfectly and looks good. All I had to do was size it to length and punch holes for the air intake vents and a little ISO to slip it on. There are many different colors and grip patterns to choose from. I took the Cera looking like a dildo a step further — my Cera is now "ribbed" for pleasure.

Man, I had the same thought but I don't have any handlebar grips around. I used a sleeve off of an air regulator from a paintball gun, and a grip from a baseball bat.

Edit because it's a bit absurd:

Honestly, I feel like the core is really the best thing about it. Yeah, ceramic does have some beneficial properties for this application but I could do with a completely different base and mouthpiece. The position of the switch still annoys me every time I use it. I really just need to get off my ass and build something but... I'm way too busy sitting here hitting this Cera.

 

[sneaky101]

I'm here with my Cera too and it occured to me it's time to put away the TI nails and the blow torch. Makes a room look ghetto. Now with the Cera doing so well with concentrates the EO cart alone makes the Cera worth it. I feel like I have my room back. lol

So glad to hear that steama! I had issues out of the box and had to send it in for repair without ever loading it. But while it was away I went ahead and ordered the LL cart too. I've never! Never! Ordered an add-on for something that failed out of the box! Got it mainly for kif when I'm too lazy to make more oil for the EO cart. Thanks everyone for the reviews of this thing...can't wait to add my own.

 

[nopartofme]

The strangest thing just happened… I had been riding this one bowl of ABV all day, just swapping out batteries underneath it (five batteries now instead of one, what a relief). The taste had become very special, shall we say. Well, I hadn't been able to get much vapor out of the last attempt, so I went ahead and swapped in some "fresh" ABV.

…The new bowl actually tasted good to me! Blasphemy! Someone get this man some fresh flowers!

 

[OF]

Gentle Friends,

I've just returned from a group of errands that included a visit to TV to show off my latest projects, talk a little shop and have a laugh or two. Another Forum Member timed a visit so we could gang up on Tim. Too bad Travis was off, he was part of my reason for the trip. On the way I hit another local hardware store, got 3 more potential springs from a different maker (Hillman), all washouts. When I got home my package from McMaster Carr was here with the ideal part for the Ti Cera with strap (or switch) issues project I think:
http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#catalog/119/1215/=md6jmx

This guy is .720 inches outside, just small enough to fit the .750 tube past the strap, it slips in and out nicely. It's made of much heavier wire (.071 not .041) giving us nearly four times the steel to conduct (lower resistance and therefore losses). It's also a 'just right' fit on the 14500 battery due to optimum wire size. The ends are ground square (much improved contact at top and bottom), again adding even more heat to the core from losses elsewhere. It's stiffer (thicker wire, same length) but the free length is only half an inch longer so it loads very easily now (no need to tape the dimes).

To convert over you remove the 18650, drop in the spring, drop the 14500 in the spring, put six (give or take) loose dimes on top, put the inverted Doob Tube cap in last as a spacer and to protect the spring on the end cap which you now screw on. Cera lights up just before the cap gets tight (and turns off by backing the cap off a turn from snug). My Cera has what I think are 'typical to good' strap connections and my switch is the latest production (I'm told). In doing A/B testing (quickly shifting batteries between hits) I honestly can't tell a real difference between the AW IMR 15400 and the 2250, switch and side strap with my Ti EO cart. At first I thought the 18650 was faster (although both reached the same level), then I realized it was easy and fast to dump all the pieces out and drop the single 18650 battery in and go. With the 14500 I had to deal with all the pieces, so the core was cooling down...... Once I realized I was goofing up the test it was nearly too late. But the last two hits (from cold standing starts against the clock) seem to be a push to me.

The 14500 won't last anywhere near as long, of course (maybe only 1/4 or 1/3 the capacity) but it'll give you way more serious hits than most mortals can deal with. Say 10 minutes? What started out as a field test/work around for the strip issue is getting to the point I'm about to recommend the springs to any Cera owner with 14500s, a Doob Tube (cap) and sixty cents. In the bargain (if you call it that) you get a 'latching' twist on/twist off switch. I'm not too comfortable with that, still, since I have a Cera that's had 3 accidents that way (two different borrowers) boiling all the oil out over time, but the fleas come with the dog. I'll have to be content with the hope folks will treat it with due respect and not leave it cooking away on it's own I guess. At least the 14500s will run down faster, I guess?

Bummer you have to buy six and all, and MC doesn't tell you shipping until after it's shipped. But first class mail for this box (several pounds of other stuff) was five bucks. I think this spring is an excellent accessory to Cera even if your switch and strap have never given you pause for concern. Cheap insurance and a useful option for running the Cera as well IMO.

So now you know as much as me..... Thanks for the attention.

…The new bowl actually tasted good to me! Blasphemy! Someone get this man some fresh flowers!

What's the old joke about the man hitting himself on the head? When asked why he said, "because it feels so good when I stop!".

Love it, thanks.

OF

 

[amilehigh]

I've searched for a while now but can't find any instructions on how to properly clean my cera, specifically the EO cart.

Ive seen mentions of soaking in ISO and then boiling, but i want to make sure i do this right so i dont break it. How long is the soak? Then I can just throw the EO cart in boiling water? As well as the cap? And i shouldnt need to soak/boil the body, correct? Am i missing anything here? If someone could direct me to the post i would appreciate it.

 

[tavosvo]

I soaked in 99% iso over night, shook it a few times. Rinsed with fresh iso then boiled for 15 min to get rid of iso smell/taste. Then toss in warm oven for a while or shake out and do 20 or so 20 sec burns to evap the water. It will hiss and make all kinds of noise if still wet inside. Good as new.

And i wouldnt boil or soak the body. A paper towel with some iso will wipe it clean.

 

[OF]

It's a tough little rascal, I think there's lots of good ways to clean it and few if any bad ones.

I like to boil first, since it gets most of it out easily and doesn't foul the jar of ISO. I don't reclaim this, those that do will want to do it the other way around (ISO soak to reclaim as much as possible) then boil to clear the iso and get the last of it hopefully.

I usually fire up a pan of water to start with, once it boils I steal a cup for tea and lower it in with a fork. I don't drop it fearing chips. I leave the rings on, but they're also easy to take off. I boil it (rather more of a heavy simmer, not a rolling boil) while I enjoy the tea, maybe 15 minutes, probably less. I then usually fish it out with the fork and run it under cold water so I can handle it. I shake out as much water as possible (not to water down the ISO). Leaving the water in the pan for later. Then into the jar of ISO for maybe 10 or 15 minutes with a few inversions to stir things up.

The final boil is usually pretty short, just to wash the ISO out. 5 minutes? Then I dump the water and core, put it in the over and wash out the pan right away. There's a 'bathtub ring' you don't want hardening. Sometimes I have to use a paper towel and a few drops of ISO to get the last of it.

Meanwhile the core is sitting (on it's side) in the toaster oven at minimum temp (200F IIRC). I put it on a piece of foil and have learned not to grab it......

I did this a fair bit when first testing the cores but found LL didn't taste much and after a point wiping it out kept it plenty clean for my tastes for a long time. The EO core cleans out nicely (usually) between strains but you loose .2 or so every time you do it. Therefore I don't clean it very much at all. It will go many grams and still taste just fine to me. I take care to not get the core really hot which may have something to do with it.

IMO much easier to take care of than DART for instance.

OF

 

[amilehigh]

It's a tough little rascal, I think there's lots of good ways to clean it and few if any bad ones.

I like to boil first, since it gets most of it out easily and doesn't foul the jar of ISO. I don't reclaim this, those that do will want to do it the other way around (ISO soak to reclaim as much as possible) then boil to clear the iso and get the last of it hopefully.

I usually fire up a pan of water to start with, once it boils I steal a cup for tea and lower it in with a fork. I don't drop it fearing chips. I leave the rings on, but they're also easy to take off. I boil it (rather more of a heavy simmer, not a rolling boil) while I enjoy the tea, maybe 15 minutes, probably less. I then usually fish it out with the fork and run it under cold water so I can handle it. I shake out as much water as possible (not to water down the ISO). Leaving the water in the pan for later. Then into the jar of ISO for maybe 10 or 15 minutes with a few inversions to stir things up.

The final boil is usually pretty short, just to wash the ISO out. 5 minutes? Then I dump the water and core, put it in the over and wash out the pan right away. There's a 'bathtub ring' you don't want hardening. Sometimes I have to use a paper towel and a few drops of ISO to get the last of it.

Meanwhile the core is sitting (on it's side) in the toaster oven at minimum temp (200F IIRC). I put it on a piece of foil and have learned not to grab it......

I did this a fair bit when first testing the cores but found LL didn't taste much and after a point wiping it out kept it plenty clean for my tastes for a long time. The EO core cleans out nicely (usually) between strains but you loose .2 or so every time you do it. Therefore I don't clean it very much at all. It will go many grams and still taste just fine to me. I take care to not get the core really hot which may have something to do with it.

IMO much easier to take care of than DART for instance.

OF

Thanks OF!

I would've boiled first but I already put the LL cart, EO cart, cap & mouthpiece into a glass of ISO (nice call with the jar... next time). I think its 94% ISO.. hopefully thats okay. I'll let it sit for another hour then boil & bake. I was worried of it cracking if I just threw it into boiling water; I picture it rattling around at the bottom. A simmer sounds like good advice.

Cant wait until its dry so I can see the difference in taste since my first few tries.

 

[OF]

Thanks OF!

I would've boiled first but I already put the LL cart, EO cart, cap & mouthpiece into a glass of ISO (nice call with the jar... next time). I think its 94% ISO.. hopefully thats okay. I'll let it sit for another hour then boil & bake. I was worried of it cracking if I just threw it into boiling water; I picture it rattling around at the bottom. A simmer sounds like good advice.

Cant wait until its dry so I can see the difference in taste since my first few tries.

You're welcome. Like I said I don't think there's a wrong way (within reason of course). The jar idea is cool as it makes it easy to store for next time (very important if you plan to reclaim) and the lid also makes it easy to simply invert it for a few seconds then back again to sit a few more minutes more. This keeps stuff stirred up, helping to get the gunge out of the recesses inside.

I learned on Revolution/DART the advantage in boiling first, the oil tends to break free and float up rather than sitting around like in ISO. Getting the 90% out of the way gives the ISO a cleaner shot at the last ten I figure.

Remember to not freak out about any stains, they're no big deal. We want to clean the pores out so the fresh oil has a place to go. We want the spaces, not the ceramic itself.

Enjoy it.

OF

 

[Musicslv]

Anyone know where can I get replacement washers for my EO core? Taking them off for boiling ruined one and nicked another. I do have the replacement washers they gave me but now what? The hardware store? Are they just "normal" O Rings?

 

[toros23]

Anyone know where can I get replacement washers for my EO core? Taking them off for boiling ruined one and nicked another. I do have the replacement washers they gave me but now what? The hardware store? Are they just "normal" O Rings?

Here ya go:
http://thermovape.force.com/IdaProductDetail?id=01t50000001qhmPAAQ

 

[nopartofme]

Another question along the same lines: is there a useful trick I'm missing on how to get the o-rings out easily? I nicked two of mine, also.

 

[tavosvo]

Anyone know what the thickest o ring is for?

A toothpick might work well. I use my dabbing tool, looks like a dental pick, and carefully pry off.

 

[nopartofme]

Anyone know what the thickest o ring is for?

That's the one that holds the two parts of the mouthpiece together.

Edit: No, scratch that, I see the one you're talking about now. I think that's provided for connecting it to a female GonG joint.

 

[amilehigh]

soaked it for 2 hours, simmered it for 15 minutes, let it dry, then baked it at 210 for 12 minutes or so. When i turned it on dry it sizzled a lot. Is that supposed to happen? I was just pulsing it at first. I kept pulsing it thinking the water would vaporize and the sizzle would stop; it didnt. It got pretty hot so I stopped but took an up close look and a whiff to see/smell what was going on and it had a faint note of what it smelled like before. I then got a little lightheaded and felt strange. Could i have inhaled some alcohol vapor?

 

[hektik8625]

Happy Monday Everyone!

So big news for Ti! We got back a few assemblies with the new welded strap, having a couple of them endurance tested then a production run! Its looking pretty good though and gets completely away from solder on the body.

I estimate the remaining Ti orders/repairs will be out the door this week!

Cheers,

Tim


P.S. OF that is pretty sweet! Gets me thinking about a shorty body maybe in the future.

Damn! Wish I would have waited Im LOVIN the SS version...EO AND LL.... Ill get it one way or another =)

 

[Rocco]

I cant wait for A TI Mini...hopefully it will add to the Stealth Aspect!

 

[OF]

soaked it for 2 hours, simmered it for 15 minutes, let it dry, then baked it at 210 for 12 minutes or so. When i turned it on dry it sizzled a lot. Is that supposed to happen? I was just pulsing it at first. I kept pulsing it thinking the water would vaporize and the sizzle would stop; it didnt. It got pretty hot so I stopped but took an up close look and a whiff to see/smell what was going on and it had a faint note of what it smelled like before. I then got a little lightheaded and felt strange. Could i have inhaled some alcohol vapor?

I'd make a couple changes. First boil it, it needs to be full temperature. Water vapor (steam) has to form inside the water. It doesn't have to be a rolling boil (that eats up the water fast but doesn't get hotter than 212F), a heavy simmer where only a few bubbles at a time form and rise will do fine as that's still 212F but you need it in water that hot. It has to be hot enough and long enough so that the entire core is hotter than the boiling point of the alcohol (181F) all the way through so the ISO boils away with the steam. Given that the metal conducts heat well, a few minutes at 212F should do fine (and has for me) so I'd boil it for sure.

And 12 minutes is not nearly enough drying time (obviously) for the water you had left. Did you shake out as much water as you could get first? If it comes out wet, dry it some more, no big deal. You don't want to be hitting pure ISO, but modest amounts you smell should not be an issue.

So, I'd boil it a bit more then dry it out again. If you're smelling ISO you didn't boil it all out, if it's sizzling there's still water inside. I guess you could always keep heating the core until the sizzling stopped but then you'd probably have a clean Cera and no battery to work it with.

You're getting there, I think you just need a little more action at the end. Be a bit more aggressive?

Good luck.

OF

 

[tavosvo]

soaked it for 2 hours, simmered it for 15 minutes, let it dry, then baked it at 210 for 12 minutes or so. When i turned it on dry it sizzled a lot. Is that supposed to happen? I was just pulsing it at first. I kept pulsing it thinking the water would vaporize and the sizzle would stop; it didnt. It got pretty hot so I stopped but took an up close look and a whiff to see/smell what was going on and it had a faint note of what it smelled like before. I then got a little lightheaded and felt strange. Could i have inhaled some alcohol vapor?

12 min not long enough at 210. Just for reference it took me about half an hour of pulsing the cart with a fresh batt before it stopped hissing. Used one battery for 15, then switched. It finally stopped making noise after a while. Lol. Next time ill leave in oven at 225 for half an hour or so.

 

[Darb]

Another question along the same lines: is there a useful trick I'm missing on how to get the o-rings out easily? I nicked two of mine, also.

An oring pick works great. Also comes in handy for many other vape related tasks. I use the one with a 90 degree bend mostly.

My new EO cart weighed 42.19 grams when new. After cleaning and drying it weighs 42.32 grams. Does this seem average? Or can I get it cleaner?