The Toasty Top

[momofthegoons]

You're welcome Lycanthrope. Glad I could help.

My Zap is still my daily driver. But later in the day, I like that little extra heat the Top gives.

 

[Lycanthrope]

Yea, that's what I was thinking, use my Zap during the day and switch to the TT at night just before bed time.

 

[biojuggernaut]

you guys have it all backwards. Top during the day then the tower at

 

[gvape]

Yea, that's what I was thinking, use my Zap during the day and switch to the TT at night just before bed time.

Exactly! I do this all the time!

Been so busy, but meaning to post that Alan MUST include the high temp rubber bands. I finally got around to trying them with the TT and not the PD and WOW... I get PERFECT hits every time... It browns much more even as I can gauge EXACTLY how far I want the tube to go in. Just makes me love the device that much more.

 

[Alan]

Glad you are liking the silicone rings gvape. I had originally bought them to use for connecting the stainless tube to the glass tube. It didn't work out. They do work well for limiting the depth of insertion of the roasting tube into the heat sink tube. I will start including them with every tube.

Thanks for the kind words mom and adding the Toasty Top to your arsenal of vapes. I'm glad to provide a device that can make people happy. I'm always looking for improvements in design and function.

I'm with biojuggernaut. I use the Toasty Top during the day. Slow roasting gives me the full spectrum of flavors and effects.

 

[Orestes]

you guys have it all backwards. Top during the day then the tower at

hear hear. If it looks like the last pic and burns a few degrees hotter than the Top, I'll certainly pick up a tower.


Though alan-- What's the deal on international shipping? I might be headed to the UK soon. I'll get a few clean tubes beforehand, regardless, but I dont want to miss out on the next stages of Toasty evolution!

 

[Alan]

Orestes - I'll be sure that you don't miss anything. Friends can send gifts to each other. Glad you like the Tower.

 

[placetime]

Glad you are liking the silicone rings gvape. I had originally bought them to use for connecting the stainless tube to the glass tube. It didn't work out.

I'm curious-- What went wrong with using the silicone rings for connecting the stainless to the glass tubes? Did you find a solution for making glass tubes?

 

[Alan]

I'm curious-- What went wrong with using the silicone rings for connecting the stainless to the glass tubes? Did you find a solution for making glass tubes?

I would have needed multiple rings to support the stainless and keep it straight. They moved around too much. Silicone tubing works much better. The trick is getting glass tubing with the perfect inside diameter.
I have an idea of what to do. Just need to give it a try.

Stay tuned.

 

[biojuggernaut]

you mean stay toasty Alan just broke my first glass stem but found that the inside of a 14mm male joint houses the silicon ring and stainless flawlessly. I currently have a bent stem that produces excellent hits.

edit: just got your email about the new thicker glass. Haha good timing!

 

[Alan]

I decided to try my hand at working heavy wall glass tubing. Here is my latest glass Toasty Tube. It is 12mm (1/2" = 12.7mm) Borosilicate w/ 2.2mm thick wall. One end has been enlarged to accept the Toasty Tip. The glass is 3.5" long. It is very heavy duty. It should take quite a bit to break this tube.
It cools the vapor so it is hard to tell you are getting any. Care should be taken with the first hit. It is easy to get too much.
The price will be the same as the poly tubes.
I also ordered some 13mm Borosilicate tubing to try.

I learned that Ed makes his vapor tube tips with 9/32" brass tubing. I just happened to have some in my shop so I decided to try making a Zap tip for my Toasty Tubes. They thread on and hold the screen exactly the same way as my 5/16" stainless steel tips. This one has a high temp silicone o-ring to provide a seal and control the depth of insertion to the heat sink tube.
The price of the Toasty Tubes will be the same with the 9/32" brass tips as with the 5/16" stainless tips.
The 9/32" brass tips will also work with the new glass Toasty Tubes.

bioguggernaut - Very cool discovery with the 14mm male joint. Your stainless and silicon band from your broken tube will fit into the new glass tubes.

Edit - The 9/32" brass tips will fit a Zap. The 5/16" stainless tips will fit a Toasty Top.

Stay Toasty

 

[biojuggernaut]

Damn Alan I am impressed once again. The new glass looks much more heat resistant as well as the reinforcement at the joint where the silicon fits snug; it seems you might know from experience as thats where I broke mine! Any difference between the brass and the SS?

 

[Alan]

Thanks biojuggernaut. I'm glad you like it. You will really like the 13mm x 3.5" tubing.
It works so well. I'm glad I found it. The fit is just perfect. The orange silicone o-ring ensures the tip fully seats into the tube. The tip un-screws for screen access as usual.
The wall thickness is 2.2mm. Very heavy duty glass. This tubing will be tough to break.

It even fits nicely into the poly cleaning tube. My search for glass is finally over.

The poly tube seals in odors as well.

 

[Ed's TnT]

Very nice Alan, I dig your idea and like the way you have integrated to O-ring, good job!

 

[biojuggernaut]

Wow that looks so clean! Is there any difference in hit size/pull from the brass tips to the SS tips? I

 

[Alan]

Thanks Ed and Bio. I'm very happy with this configuration.

The brass and stainless tips both have an inside diameter of 1/4" and use the same screen. The brass is just a bit thinner.
The air draw is the same thru either tip. The 1/4" stainless tube still provides the limiting restriction. The length is kept to a minimum. This also limits the exposed hot metal.

I also have one made for my Iolite. The air draw is so much better and the vapor only contacts stainless and glass, just like the TT.

 

[biojuggernaut]

Alan something weird is happening with my top. It was working fine last night, work up this morning and plugged it in and it just doesn't seem to getting as hot as it normally operates. I have tried different outlets in the master bedroom and it still doesn't seem to getting "toasty". The avb comes out golden/green rather then the toasty tops typical brown. I will try a different strain later today and see if that helps.

 

[Alan]

Bio - I have found that the little side tab in the power socket can sometimes get pushed too far to the side and make poor electrical contact. I use the small blade of a swiss army knife to pry it closer to the center post.

I would also recommend operating it 24/7 if possible as opposed to heating and cooling frequently. The cycling thermal changes seem to cause more wear and tear than just letting it operate at a steady state condition.

Let me know if it is still running cool.

Glad to hear it is running toasty now.

 

[biojuggernaut]

Honestly Alan I think it is user error. I was so toasted when I woke up this morning I didn't put it on the stand to heat up; instead I left it on its side =/. So the heating element didn't have a proper chance to heat up. I was just tripping because the unit was plugged in since 8 and still wasn't "toasty".

Yeah something is working with the current throughout my house: the top no longer gets hot in my master bedroom but get warm in my kitchen. Don't understand how this is possible however. So glad to have my top back and hot though!

 

[placetime]

Thanks biojuggernaut. I'm glad you like it. You will really like the 13mm x 3.5" tubing.
It works so well. I'm glad I found it. The fit is just perfect. The orange silicone o-ring ensures the tip fully seats into the tube. The tip un-screws for screen access as usual.
The wall thickness is 2.2mm. Very heavy duty glass. This tubing will be tough to break.

http://toasty-top.com/images/glasstoastytube.jpg

It even fits nicely into the poly cleaning tube. My search for glass is finally over.

Awesome! Well done! Do you just cut/snap the glass tubes to size then flame-polish?

 

[momofthegoons]

Meant to comment on the new glass tube, but have been busy. Looks really nice Alan. I like that you have changed the design a bit to eliminate the "bump" at the end by the tip. I found with my Zap glass that the older ones that had that "bubble" at the tip would be harder to clean. I like this new streamlined look. And the poly cleaning/storing tube is a nice touch.

 

[Alan]

Do you just cut/snap the glass tubes to size then flame-polish?

Thanks placetime. Scratch, snap, and polish is all they need. Nice to find a winning combination.

Glad you like the new design mom. It will be a breeze to clean.

 

[placetime]

Thanks for sharing that info. I've been considering trying to make (for myself) something similar to those glass tubes and also some glass drinking straws, but I haven't yet been able to figure out if annealing is really necessary for those types of applications (especially if I don't add on any color bits). I have access to a torch that will work with boro, but not a kiln (yet). And more importantly, I really have no idea what I'm doing working with glass.

 

[Alan]

And more importantly, I really have no idea what I'm doing working with glass.

I have never let having no idea what I'm doing stop me from doing something. I usually figure out a new and better way by not knowing how you are supposed to do it.

Glass tubing doesn't have enough mass of glass to worry about slow cooling. Just start heating it slowly. I think you need to get the glass fairly thick before annealing is necessary.
I do a bit of smoothing with a diamond file before flame polishing. I have found that making a perfectly smooth cut on glass tubing is not as easy as it looks. I'm getting more chances to practice though.

 

[gvape]

Awesome that the new tips work with the PD. Might need to get a few of these along with one of those new glass tubes. I think I may send you my old glass tube back so you can thread it for my i-olite. I also may need to get a new power adapter. Looks like my PD one crapped out on me. I tried to put another M adapter on it, but I think the thing is just shot since it still wont work.