Discontinued The Sublimator

Johatsu shita

Well-Known Member
I'll have to double check, but I think if you cut then restore power to the controller, when it turns back on it doesn't remember the temp, it just sits at 0.

The only way it remembers temp is to manually press the power button.

I'm not in front of my sub to test though...
If that's the case, that sucks, because I know I won't really get to enjoy it like I want to. I've become accustomed to having my nano on and rarin' to go 16 hours a day. To come from this level of freedom to a one hour timer that will constantly have me thinking about turning it back on is something I don't know if I can get past. I really want one though, ever since the first video I watched I've been reading all I can and watching every video. I think I'll get one in the end anyways, I have an idea on what I can do, just sucks that I'm gonna have to do some heavy modding on a vape kit that costs almost $1000. Oh well maybe in the end with my added modifications I can release my own vaporizer to the masses.

First video I watched that had me drooling. The density of the vapor and being able to extract all of the goodies in one go still intrigues the hell out of me.:o
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Johatsu shita,
  • Like
Reactions: Teedub

Jazzah

Well-Known Member
In this episode of MJ man, enrico says that the monkey controller is still modable. He speaks about "hacking into the chip" and (unfortunately) how the newer controler will not even allow that. Anyone here tec savy enough to explain how that could be done?
 
Jazzah,

jojo monkey

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Why does this vape have the shutoff? Does something melt or get too hot over time?
 
jojo monkey,

Johatsu shita

Well-Known Member
Why does this vape have the shutoff? Does something melt or get too hot over time?
From what I can gather it's to extend the life of the heater. What I can't figure out is how my nano which cost me 200 can stay on almost 24/7 no problems and yet the sub can't? I don't get it...:shrug:
 
Johatsu shita,
  • Like
Reactions: Kief

zippy

Well-Known Member
Why does this vape have the shutoff? Does something melt or get too hot over time?
I believe it shuts off so if you pass out and sleepwalk or something,knock it over to a carpet and you may have a fire.I think Enrico is just covering himself against any accidents with fire etc.Not that the unit will combust but if it falls over and you are passed out who knows what could happen.
 

jojo monkey

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Safety first!

Any pictures of the inside of the box? The dimmer is obviously custom so maybe the timer is on the printed circuit board?
 
jojo monkey,

grokit

well-worn member
I believe it shuts off so if you pass out and sleepwalk or something,knock it over to a carpet and you may have a fire.I think Enrico is just covering himself against any accidents with fire etc.Not that the unit will combust but if it falls over and you are passed out who knows what could happen.
Yes that and pets. It's definitely about liability.

I wouldn't bother modding the 2.0, long live the 1.0!
 

brucee10

Well-Known Member
trTehZs.jpg
8VWCgTp.jpg

NdqiC7S.jpg

EmZBHRV.jpg

LY8ekCr.jpg

duWyuTV.jpg

arfWz79.jpg

dkiRBHk.jpg
 

jojo monkey

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Does the board just plug into a socket that has the power cord attached to it? A pic of that would be cool too. Also, when the power cuts out, are the lights still on?

Did a little googling....

The 915055 chips are capacitors.
The ULN2003LV are Texas instrument relays
The Atmel AT89LP51 is a 8-bit microcontroller

I can't read that green chip on the bottom too.
 

brucee10

Well-Known Member
Cheers for putting up the pic's,looks pretty well made.Also seems you would need to change the chip's to change the timer.

I'm pretty certain it would be easier to start from scratch to develop a controller without a timer. Using one of the Arduino or Raspberry Pi boards to control a variable voltage relay to apply power to the heater wouldn't be hard. I don't know the heater specs though.
 

brucee10

Well-Known Member
Does the board just plug into a socket that has the power cord attached to it? A pic of that would be cool too. Also, when the power cuts out, are the lights still on?

Did a little googling....

The 915055 chips are capacitors.
The ULN2003LV are Texas instrument relays
The Atmel AT89LP51 is a 8-bit microcontroller

I can't read that green chip on the bottom too.


I'll open up my controller tonight and try to get some better photos. The board has a barrel jack connector on one end to receive power from the transformer and the XLR cable comes out the other side. The knob is attached to a rotary encoder that sends the signal to the AT89LP51. Let me know what photos you want to see and I'll get them for you.
 
brucee10,
  • Like
Reactions: VegNVape

jojo monkey

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
You know, I wonder why it has 2 relays? The shutoff might be computer controlled?

@brucee10 You are probably right. It should be easier to bypass the whole thing. Cut the wires put them into a $5 "2000W 50-220V Adjustable Voltage Regulator PWM AC Motor Speed Control Controller" off ebay and you should be done. Put that in a little sucker in a project box and you are golden! I like that ebay voltage regulator because it as a second potentiometer built in so you can dial back the strength and give the dimmer knob less range.

edit: on second thought, the two relay could be for the lights? one for the power and the other for the power level?
 
Last edited:

brucee10

Well-Known Member
You know, I wonder why it has 2 relays? The shutoff might be computer controlled?

@brucee10 You are probably right. It should be easier to bypass the whole thing. Cut the wires put them into a $5 "2000W 50-220V Adjustable Voltage Regulator PWM AC Motor Speed Control Controller" off ebay and you should be done. Put that in a little sucker in a project box and you are golden! I like that ebay voltage regulator because it as a second potentiometer built in so you can dial back the strength and give the dimmer knob less range.

edit: on second thought, the two relay could be for the lights? one for the power and the other for the power level?

The first relay might provide power to the microcontroller when you push the knob down and the second relay is used to provide power to the heater.
 

Jazzah

Well-Known Member
Firstly, brucee10, thank you so much man. Top notch pictures. Secondly, it seemed to me that what Enrico said in the MJ-man vid I posted implied that a software hack would suffice to circumvent the timer issue. I guess all that needs to be done is figure out what chip needs to be hacked, and then get someone who understands programming so this person can make a little program for us to do so ... Unfortunately I don't understand jack shit about that stuff, I wouldn't even know how you access a chip... hopefully someone does
 

grokit

well-worn member
I wouldn't bother modding the 2.0
I can see now that it's possible to build your own box for the 2.0, and that it's pretty much required if you want to bypass the timer. I built my own 1.0 box, mainly because I didn't realize there were off the shelf solutions. The 2.0 will be a different kind of project, as it veers from an electrical to a computerized controller. Coincidentally, a couple of deals on the required knowledge and equipment came across my inbox this morning; this could be a fun and rewarding project for anybody so inclined to "hack their 2.0":

https://deals.ilounge.com/sales/complete-arduino-starter-kit-course-bundle?utm_source=StackSocial+Deals+Newsletter&utm_campaign=0433fd137b-IL+Complete+Arduino+Starter+Kit+&+Course+Bundle&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_bf74b34094-0433fd137b-299744637&mc_cid=0433fd137b&mc_eid=7464fdf9fd

https://deals.ilounge.com/sales/an-introduction-to-arduino-an-open-source-electronics-platform?utm_source=StackSocial+Deals+Newsletter&utm_campaign=0433fd137b-IL+Complete+Arduino+Starter+Kit+&+Course+Bundle&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_bf74b34094-0433fd137b-299744637&mc_cid=0433fd137b&mc_eid=7464fdf9fd
 

brucee10

Well-Known Member
I can see now that it's possible to build your own box for the 2.0, and that it's pretty much required if you want to bypass the timer. I built my own 1.0 box, mainly because I didn't realize there were off the shelf solutions. The 2.0 will be a different kind of project, as it veers from an electrical to a computerized controller. Coincidentally, a couple of deals on the required knowledge and equipment came across my inbox this morning; this could be a fun and rewarding project for anybody so inclined to "hack their 2.0":

https://deals.ilounge.com/sales/complete-arduino-starter-kit-course-bundle?utm_source=StackSocial+Deals+Newsletter&utm_campaign=0433fd137b-IL+Complete+Arduino+Starter+Kit+&+Course+Bundle&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_bf74b34094-0433fd137b-299744637&mc_cid=0433fd137b&mc_eid=7464fdf9fd

https://deals.ilounge.com/sales/an-introduction-to-arduino-an-open-source-electronics-platform?utm_source=StackSocial+Deals+Newsletter&utm_campaign=0433fd137b-IL+Complete+Arduino+Starter+Kit+&+Course+Bundle&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_bf74b34094-0433fd137b-299744637&mc_cid=0433fd137b&mc_eid=7464fdf9fd

I was actually thinking of using a Netduino since I already work in .Net for my 9-5, but there is also the new Raspberry Pi 2 with Windows 10 functionality and the Intel Galileo which will run .Net code. I need someone to help with the electrical engineering side of things because I can handle the code.
 

mikeyt420

New Member
My stainless steel apollo XLR unit results in slightly burned weed at any temperature higher than #5 on the dial while using indoors only. This happens after 45-60 mins of being on. When I use it outside it seems to work on the numbers it should (6-8). Even when I keep the unit on #4 for an hour or 2 (indoors), the handle will get slightly warm sometimes, and noticeably warmer on any number higher. Does anybody else run their unit at #5 or less on the dial for weed when inside?
 
mikeyt420,

zippy

Well-Known Member
My stainless steel apollo XLR unit results in slightly burned weed at any temperature higher than #5 on the dial while using indoors only. This happens after 45-60 mins of being on. When I use it outside it seems to work on the numbers it should (6-8). Even when I keep the unit on #4 for an hour or 2 (indoors), the handle will get slightly warm sometimes, and noticeably warmer on any number higher. Does anybody else run their unit at #5 or less on the dial for weed when inside?
Sometimes run mine at 4 just before the green light comes on and the herb stays greenish.On 6 last night with some dry sift sprinkled on top and the herb was almost black when i was done.@ the moment it is heating up on 5 ,so see what happens today.
 
zippy,

grokit

well-worn member
My stainless steel apollo XLR unit results in slightly burned weed at any temperature higher than #5 on the dial while using indoors only. This happens after 45-60 mins of being on. When I use it outside it seems to work on the numbers it should (6-8). Even when I keep the unit on #4 for an hour or 2 (indoors), the handle will get slightly warm sometimes, and noticeably warmer on any number higher. Does anybody else run their unit at #5 or less on the dial for weed when inside?

The sub is environmentally sensitive. I don't use my 1.0 apollo outside, but when I turn on the space heater with the fan blowing on it indoors its efficiency goes way down like yours does when used outdoors.
 

Frederick McGuire

Aggressively Loungey
So both the sub threads fell off my watch list somehow, and I literally JUST posted in the sub 2.0 thread about potentially making a custom monkey box...

I really don't have enough experience to know what I'm doing, but I'd love to have a tinker once I knew where to start.

I've got a spare raspberry pi 2 I could use...(bought it for an emulator project I'm Planning on working on but haven't gotten around to yet - ive never used a raspberry pi yet.)
 
Frederick McGuire,

ripped

Well-Known Member
In this episode of MJ man, enrico says that the monkey controller is still modable. He speaks about "hacking into the chip" and (unfortunately) how the newer controler will not even allow that. Anyone here tec savy enough to explain how that could be done?

All a person would need to do is open the controller box, find the main controller chip which obviously is not locked and then you dump this chips code. Now you need to read the code and find the value for the OFF timer and the value is likely 3600 seconds or 60 minutes multiplied by 60 seconds, you now change this value and save the code and upload it to the chip again and now you have a modified timer value.

**Note if you have no clue how to properly read chips and write them I would advice against doing this yourself.

As for Enrico's comments that the new controller code cannot be read...this is totally false and while it may not be easy even the real inventor knows that ANY chip can be read sooner or later by determined people, not everybody has a SEM or FIB in their toolkit but some do and they can read virtually any chip regardless if it has protection.

Firstly, brucee10, thank you so much man. Top notch pictures. Secondly, it seemed to me that what Enrico said in the MJ-man vid I posted implied that a software hack would suffice to circumvent the timer issue. I guess all that needs to be done is figure out what chip needs to be hacked, and then get someone who understands programming so this person can make a little program for us to do so ... Unfortunately I don't understand jack shit about that stuff, I wouldn't even know how you access a chip... hopefully someone does

Anybody can access the chip as its not locked and Enrico admitted that, all you need to do is desolder the chip from the board(carefully) and then read it out and once you have the code you need to modify the code that controls the timer and increase the timer value from 3600 seconds which is one hour to whatever value you want.

**I would suspect the chip that control everything is the Atmel, if someone had a controller that no longer works I am more than sure many hobbyists could easily remove the chips and read them with a suitable chip reader to find the one with the timer code, once you know that then the code could be modded to a higher timer value, remove the chip from a *new* unit and solder in the one you removed that you modded the code and wrote the new code to it, if it works then you have the solution.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

brucee10

Well-Known Member
Anybody can access the chip as its not locked and Enrico admitted that, all you need to do is desolder the chip from the board(carefully) and then read it out and once you have the code you need to modify the code that controls the timer and increase the timer value from 3600 seconds which is one hour to whatever value you want.

**I would suspect the chip that control everything is the Atmel, if someone had a controller that no longer works I am more than sure many hobbyists could easily remove the chips and read them with a suitable chip reader to find the one with the timer code, once you know that then the code could be modded to a higher timer value, remove the chip from a *new* unit and solder in the one you removed that you modded the code and wrote the new code to it, if it works then you have the solution.


You shouldn't need to desolder the chip. I'm pretty sure there is a board edge jtag(I think that's the terminology) header on the circuit board. You can see it in one of the photos I posted. I'll try to find a way to read it. http://i.imgur.com/EmZBHRV.jpg

My other thought is that this little chunk of green board is the timing circuit. The chip would be turned on which starts the timer and allows current to flow to the CPU. When the time expires, the power to the CPU is cut. http://i.imgur.com/8VWCgTp.jpg
 
brucee10,
  • Like
Reactions: VegNVape

ripped

Well-Known Member
You shouldn't need to desolder the chip. I'm pretty sure there is a board edge jtag(I think that's the terminology) header on the circuit board. You can see it in one of the photos I posted. I'll try to find a way to read it. http://i.imgur.com/EmZBHRV.jpg

My other thought is that this little chunk of green board is the timing circuit. The chip would be turned on which starts the timer and allows current to flow to the CPU. When the time expires, the power to the CPU is cut. http://i.imgur.com/8VWCgTp.jpg

I noticed this (J3) header also after I looked at the photos more and I sent them to a friend yesterday who is a chip expert and is very familiar with JTAG also, he might know what we can do or have some ideas how we can communicate.

The good thing is Enrico mentioned the chip was unlocked so getting the code won't be a problem but it would be nice if a simple method could be made for the end user by perhaps connecting a header to that JTAG that a might have a button and a chip with new code, press and hold button for three seconds to enter programming mode and then each button press adds one hour, press and hold again exits programming mode.

Beyond my capabilities and my time but I think you get the idea, a simple and easy way to interface to the board and then a simple way for the end user to modify their own controller by attaching to the jtag and maybe drilling a hole to add a button to the side of the controller etc. that would allow the timer to be changed.

Also I noticed the TX/RX in the one corner of the board and maybe it was just used for diagnostics when uploading the firmware or something else, would be nice if it was a serial interface that we could send commands for temp settings and on/off commands.

I know Enrico also mentioned in the past that the new controller would have a feature to turn on wireless, perhaps they plan to implement a cheap RF remote to turn it on or off or if they wanted to get real fancy they could use zigbee or something and create phone apps to control and monitor the temperature as well as turn it on and off.
 
ripped,
Top Bottom