Discontinued The Sublimator
- Thread starter PlanetHaze
- Start date
jambandphan03
in flavor country
yeah, mine smelled a little "off" after my carpet incident, but it's back to normal now... hot metal.
Your Highness
Cannasseur
My Apollo screws off with no issue. Let it cool down and screw it off to properly clean it. I read a post a few pages back detailing it so I tried..... no problem at all. It simply just screws off. I know they say that it will void your warranty... but seriously I don't see how they would tell. Its just a screwed on metal cap with holes in it. It unscrewed with minimal effort.
Edit: I meant Apollo not Atomizer...
Edit: I meant Apollo not Atomizer...
hassan
Connoisseur
Do you mean your Apollo?
Because the voiding of the warranty applies to the Apollo, not the Atomizer.
Your Highness
Cannasseur
Yes I meant Apollo! Thanks!
Your Highness
Cannasseur
I did not but it was super easy. It literally just screws right off. There is nothing underneath except the metal heating element. That's it. No wires or anything...
Here is the link to the original post with pictures...
The Sublimator
grokit
well-worn member
Woo, been subbing maybe too much lately. Forgot to check the thread here for a few days.
With pleasure.
See now, that wasn't so bad. Comes off pretty easy. Goes back on no problem, and now I'm about to hit the thing now that it's heated up again. Cheers everyone.
I just took mine apart as well, I was burning off the head for cleaning at ~60 watts, and handling it with my lodge potholder gloves running a wire through the holes to get my airflow back after doing some low-grade dabs and it just started unscrewing. I was able to clean it much better that way, and will have no qualms unscrewing it again to boil out the head when I get around to boiling the atomizer.
I'm obviously not concerned about the warranty, but even if I was there is no way to tell if it's been unscrewed or not. No tools required if you get it good and hot first!
Please be very careful doing this, if the main Apollo head is very tight on the inner threads you will twist the heater and break the leads going in to it rendering your Apollo very sad (broken). Kind of a Russian roulette, once you twist on it.
PV
grokit
well-worn member
Yes that was my first comment when @creationdivine posted this,
that it looked simple enough as long as the top part is prevented from turning.
I think that his had worked itself loose before he took it apart like mine did,
but if it's tight you will want to have a very good grip on that top part so it doesn't turn at all.
that it looked simple enough as long as the top part is prevented from turning.
I think that his had worked itself loose before he took it apart like mine did,
but if it's tight you will want to have a very good grip on that top part so it doesn't turn at all.
Dopevape
Well-Known Member
I was wondering.. if the head unscrews by itself? how can they use this as warranty void? everyones head will come off eventually.... need a rewrite on that perhaps dunno... seems kinda dicky to me.
ps: u cant overtighten it.. unless u are using somesort of pliars...and a bench case closed sounds bs to me again
now if you would be screwing around with the top part of the head where the wire/heating element start.. then u got a problem but this is like durable so why would it shift out of place... seriously
Take your top handle and the head and then screw it on... that way you wont be shifting the top if thats what your after... there u go
another thing, my appoloo got stuck in the atomizer at some point in time, and well I didnt use it for 2 days i have hitted on it with hammer everything
so its pretty durable lol... don't laugh ^^
edited
ps: u cant overtighten it.. unless u are using somesort of pliars...and a bench case closed sounds bs to me again
now if you would be screwing around with the top part of the head where the wire/heating element start.. then u got a problem but this is like durable so why would it shift out of place... seriously
Take your top handle and the head and then screw it on... that way you wont be shifting the top if thats what your after... there u go
another thing, my appoloo got stuck in the atomizer at some point in time, and well I didnt use it for 2 days i have hitted on it with hammer everything
so its pretty durable lol... don't laugh ^^edited
Last edited:
During the initial burnout on my new XLR, I thought about loosening the Apollo for a good cleaning,
the fumes I saw during the burnout made me think of that. I can't believe how much metal cutting lubricant was left in it, after twenty minutes it was all gone, but left me wandering, Why can't they give it a good cleaning before delivery?
the fumes I saw during the burnout made me think of that. I can't believe how much metal cutting lubricant was left in it, after twenty minutes it was all gone, but left me wandering, Why can't they give it a good cleaning before delivery?
Last edited:
creationdivine
Well-Known Member
So who is with me that we should be able to buy a Titanium Apollo head and put it on ourselves?
Haha this dream of mine will not die.
Haha this dream of mine will not die.
Been Vapin
Fringe Class
I said earlier in the thread their 7 minute heat up was not correct.
False advertising if I ever seen it.
So what do u typically expect for a heat up time for dabbing?
Been Vapin
Fringe Class
At least 15 to 20 min like you said just to get going. You could use a small torch and heat the unit using the UFO method too boost your initial heat.
The lower parts of the atomizer also need to be hot for the Subkimator to perform as intended. No way this lower part is getting hot in 10 minutes.
When I used to Vape with Sub I left it on 24.7 because all that thermal equalibrium jazz.
So more like an hour heat up for true Sublimation experience.
The lower parts of the atomizer also need to be hot for the Subkimator to perform as intended. No way this lower part is getting hot in 10 minutes.
When I used to Vape with Sub I left it on 24.7 because all that thermal equalibrium jazz.
So more like an hour heat up for true Sublimation experience.
grokit
well-worn member
I see some of you have been able to avoid dealing with the one hour timer shut off, because of modifications and that is great.
I don't want to do that with my new XLR, and I have a few question to those more knowledgeable in electrical matters, here it goes.
Can I shut the unit off before the one hour shut off time, and turn it back on immediately without any damage to the electrical parts of the unit? And, will that give me another hour of heating time, or does it retain a memory and will only give me the remaining time before I shut it off?
I'll appreciate any feedback on this matter.
Thank you.
I don't want to do that with my new XLR, and I have a few question to those more knowledgeable in electrical matters, here it goes.
Can I shut the unit off before the one hour shut off time, and turn it back on immediately without any damage to the electrical parts of the unit? And, will that give me another hour of heating time, or does it retain a memory and will only give me the remaining time before I shut it off?
I'll appreciate any feedback on this matter.
Thank you.
grokit
well-worn member
I'm not familiar with the xlr box, that's a different animal from an electrical standpoint. But my old 110v timer box could be bumped back up to the full hour at any time when it got low. There was a 24-hour override, but it was defective and made a loud buzzing noise that was quite annoying. When I inquired about the buzzing noise, I was told that that I shouldn't use the override. So I clubbed it like a baby seal until it died, then I built my own damn box. Now my sublimator works better than ever before. Good luck!
Last edited: