Discontinued The Sublimator

Willeh

Well-Known Member
The thing is I never tightened the atomizer by bracing against the handle and spinning the heater so I never abused it. When I got my unit the top and bottom of the atomizer were very loosely screwed together. When I hand tightened them the c-clip popped out a little I guess and when I tested the glass bushing on the seal it snagged the c-clip and completely removed it. I assumed it was literally junk metal as my sublimator atomizer and even the bushing seems to be solid and work fine. I've never had my c-clip on it fell off within 10 minutes of taking it out of the box. It appeared to have no functionality impact as my sublimator doesn't seem to come loose and the bushing hasn't moved. If it isn't under warranty I'm not going to replace it anyway.
 

Tweek

Well-Known Member
Forgot to post this earlier...I have a 250 ml EHLE piece, and I rigged my own whip. I took the cap off of a large prescription bottle (how fitting :D) and drilled a hole in the top, where I inserted a small length of silicone hose. By pressing the cap down while drawing, I can get a nice sip like the tube setup...once I release the cap, it acts like a small carb of sorts...nothing major, but makes clearing easier.
 

grokit

well-worn member
The thing is I never tightened the atomizer by bracing against the handle and spinning the heater so I never abused it. When I got my unit the top and bottom of the atomizer were very loosely screwed together. When I hand tightened them the c-clip popped out a little I guess and when I tested the glass bushing on the seal it snagged the c-clip and completely removed it. I assumed it was literally junk metal as my sublimator atomizer and even the bushing seems to be solid and work fine. I've never had my c-clip on it fell off within 10 minutes of taking it out of the box. It appeared to have no functionality impact as my sublimator doesn't seem to come loose and the bushing hasn't moved. If it isn't under warranty I'm not going to replace it anyway.


I don't see how tightening something that has become loose could be termed abuse anyways. My c-clip is now exposed and the atomizer is now oozing from both ends of the ptfe. I suppose I need to tighten it but I'm afraid it will never come apart if I do, so I guess I will try and disassemble it before I turn it off later.
 
grokit,

Dopevape

Well-Known Member
man...i would love to try the new titanium sub.
*EDITED*
It is just a more durable version of the Sub? I can't think of any improvement unless it be stronger then the original. Maybe it has some thing i dont know about like it heats up alot quicker or cool down or both.. or i dunno.. but im guessing the pricetag will be nice as well.
I'm up for seeying the battery powered version :D. And how that is going to work? And if we Adapt-A-Bongers will be able to use it for example, thinking about connection etc.. So many new things on the horizon im loving this life.

@grokit did you get to try out the UFO yet? I'm finding that the airflow on the UFO is heaps better then the Adapt-A-BONG. Even started getting these light headaches after using the adapt-a-bong after drawing. Tried everything, slow draw... u name it. Just wondering what your findings where. Maybe i need to clean my atomizer or something but then again i would be having the same prob with the UFO. Starting to get afraid at first my core was compromised with some sort of residue giving me headaches and shit but.. argh :) guess this is just me :/
 
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Dopevape,

Tommii

Subdivision Founder / Sublimator Ambassador
Hopefully if you (or myself) screwed anything up so badly that it needs repair/replacement Sublimator will cover it under warranty, as there were absolutely no maintenance instructions provided with the units.
That was exactly what I was thinking. Pretend its like batteries slowly dying by charging over and over again until it can't hold power.

My method was not ment to tighten it as if i put it in a workshop vice, but to very lightly tighten up until I'm done seshing. You don't need power to push down, as long as the handles makes a seal, you can twist without pushing down deep into a Teflon. It's easier to maneuver if the atomizer heats up with the heating unit before twisting. I can teach a 3 year old to tighten without power. (I will make a video to address and show how I do it if I have time)
 
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Tommii,

grokit

well-worn member
I got my atomizer apart, barely, when hot. No way could that have been separated cold. Soaking in 99% iso overnight. The ptfe piece is off the unit and the c-clip looks fine. It will be interesting to re-assemble the ptfe part without instructions; I am thinking that the c-clip needs to be treated as another thread for the ptfe piece to screw on to.


@grokit did you get to try out the UFO yet? I'm finding that the airflow on the UFO is heaps better then the Adapt-A-BONG. Even started getting these light headaches after using the adapt-a-bong after drawing. Tried everything, slow draw... u name it. Just wondering what your findings where. Maybe i need to clean my atomizer or something but then again i would be having the same prob with the UFO. Starting to get afraid at first my core was compromised with some sort of residue giving me headaches and shit but.. argh :) guess this is just me :/

I have not had a chance to "fire up" the ufo kit yet. But when I was checking it out I didn't see the vortex intake holes that are on the regular aab so that's interesting about the airflow.
 
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grokit,
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C-weed

Well-Known Member
I don't see how tightening something that has become loose could be termed abuse anyways. My c-clip is now exposed and the atomizer is now oozing from both ends of the ptfe. I suppose I need to tighten it but I'm afraid it will never come apart if I do, so I guess I will try and disassemble it before I turn it off later.
After speaking at length with robert at Planet Vape....apparently heat up time is faster...cool down time is faster,and titanium being a natural element offers a much cleaner taste. titanium is also much more durable and lighter weight.This would make my future setup a little less top heavy as well.He also said that they would have a ss/titanium trade in promo in the future.

Robert from PV told me that yes, both heat up and cool down time are much faster.But titanium being a natural element offers a much cleaner taste.The weight is approximately half as much...and titanium is much more durable than ss. not that stainless isnt strong as hell...but.Rober also said that PV would have a trade in promo for the titanium for owners of the stainless model.

mod note: @C-weed, please avoid back-to-back posts, use Edit instead. Two posts merged.
 
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Tommii

Subdivision Founder / Sublimator Ambassador
After speaking at length with robert at Planet Vape....apparently heat up time is faster...cool down time is faster,and titanium being a natural element offers a much cleaner taste. titanium is also much more durable and lighter weight.This would make my future setup a little less top heavy as well.He also said that they would have a ss/titanium trade in promo in the future.

I wonder if they do trade in for sublimators not purchased from PV.
 

mnd99

Well-Known Member
did you get to try out the UFO yet? I'm finding that the airflow on the UFO is heaps better then the Adapt-A-BONG. Even started getting these light headaches after using the adapt-a-bong after drawing. Tried everything, slow draw... u name it. Just wondering what your findings where. Maybe i need to clean my atomizer or something but then again i would be having the same prob with the UFO.

Do you mean UFO is "heaps better than the" Apollo? I mean both setups use the atomizer, right? the difference is the heating system UFO vs Apollo? So you feel the airflow is better than the Apollo. Did I get that right?

Your headaches, are the glass pieces also same when you use ufo and apollo? the only variable difference being the heating element?
 
mnd99,

theCerberus

Well-Known Member
hey guys, just purchased a sub and got some instructions from PV that seem to counter certain points made here, so I was hoping you guys could clear things up.

first off, iso bath the bowl, no problem, I got an apollo 14mm adapt-a-bong with the lowpro for 18mm too, it says for first use to let it heat up for 60 min attached to the bong, but I have read that some of you suggest that it may crack the glass because of the (rubber?) adapters expansion. is this true/why would they instruct me wrong?

Place the Apollo heat injector on to the top of the cone and place both parts as an assembled unit in to your water tool that has a minimum 4” base, large enough to support the Apollo and Atomizer safely. Do Not use on a small bubbler that is unstable!

On a brand new Sublimator, turn your Sublimator on by rotating the temp selector wheel on the power cord to the full power position and pressing the 30 minute button. Let it run at full temp for 30-60 minutes to burn off any manufacturing oils


2nd question, i've seen some debate about where the screen goes, whereas PV says it sits PAST the first visible ledge.
If a screen is not already installed at the bottom of the cone, insert a screen (included) from the top of the cone and push it down all the way until properly seated (past the first visible ledge).

and 3rd question,
Many suggest stirring the bowl may drop particulate/AVB down into the atomizer, but PV suggests to stir right off the bat
Once thermal equilibrium has been reached, using the upper handle lift off the heat injector and place 0.1 gram – 0.15 gram of dried herbs in to the top of the cone and give it a quick stir with a heat proof stir tool to ensure your herbs are not clumped together.
 
theCerberus,

CheeseSandwich

Well-Known Member
1. I leave mine in my bong for much longer than 1 hr so I wouldnt worry on that.
2.the screens seem to be hit and miss, mine rests on top of the 1st ledge but others just under it.
3. depending on temp u might wanna stir. If i use it on lower temps I personally just dump it all in a pile, then go back through it again on higher temps. I also have a small screen pushed to the bottom of the atomizer chamber to catch small bits/dust.
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
I wouldn't stir if you are balancing the screen on the top ledge area as you could flip the load down into the atomizer. Personally I agree with PV's suggestion to let it rest on the second ledge. It fits perfectly there and seems like it is by design. If your screen is securely set in place, I recommend a stir (once during each bowl).

:peace:
 

grokit

well-worn member
I wouldn't stir if you are balancing the screen on the top ledge area as you could flip the load down into the atomizer. Personally I agree with PV's suggestion to let it rest on the second ledge. It fits perfectly there and seems like it is by design. If your screen is securely set in place, I recommend a stir (once during each bowl).

:peace:


Good advice for those that load big bowls with secured screens, I've never done it that way. I spent like a half an hour trying to tweak one of my stock ss grills to stay level just below the first ledge, but ultimately failed. I think the stock grills should be a bit bigger, so they could be wedged in more naturally on top of the ledge using the graduated circumference as a guide.

I prefer measured one-hit doses with the sub, very efficient and no need to stir :tup:
 
grokit,

ResinHead

Young Grasshoppa
Sublimator is def best vaporizer on market, its killing my cloud an ssv. just a tiny pinch will give one massive hit, few tiny hits im rocked an im a big guy. love this thing
I definitely agree that its the best "device" on the market at the moment. Ive let soo many people try it and not one of them had something bad to say about it. Only complaint ive heard is that it gets you soo stoned, this device is honestly soo veratile and efficient I would definitely recommend it to anyone and I do on a daily basis. Props Enrico :rockon:
 
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