Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[bossman]

Yeah, I have my Splinters on dedicated mods and only take them off to find a new home for them that's a better fit. It's fun because I genuinely enjoy how a Splinter is like a guitar through a different amp with each mod pairing. Mine are mostly just color coordinated at this point but I've also talked myself into the notion that they perform best on their current mods which is surely bullshit.

In other picture postcards, I've kept nudging the V1/rxg3d combo and these settings below are even better and I guess more in keeping with what I've seen from others. The first hit was already big at 400° and they stayed great with no hotspotting and surprisingly decent flavor for a V1. I think I forget how fast the V1 is because I use the Zs so much and it's the nearest they have to a drawback.


For any myevic users, I think it's in the Interface submenu you can set UI to 2 and get this old man mode I quite like:

 

[cybrguy]

Hi everyone,


So far very happy with my first few puffs.
Before that I had a FocusVape Pro.

Just as a reminder, IMGUR has blacklisted us and intentionally broken images here. Use imgbb or postimage or some other hosting site so your images will display.

 

[chrismaddahl]

Just as a reminder, IMGUR has blacklisted us and intentionally broken images here. Use imgbb or postimage or some other hosting site so your images will display.

Thanks for the info.

 

[sickmanfraud]

Thanks for the info.

Pardon my ignorance, what Mod is that?

@bossman with the newest version of the TUBO firmware compatible with a RXG3D, is there a reason/advantage to use Myevic firmware?

 

[bossman]

Pardon my ignorance, what Mod is that?

@bossman with the newest version of the TUBO firmware compatible with a RXG3D, is there a reason/advantage to use Myevic firmware?

That mod looks like the Wismec Sinuous Ravage but it's not. I'm curious too now. Feel like I've seen it before.

I'm sure the Tubo firmware is a fine choice. I'm still just using the old myevic.bin because it installs. I own two rx gen3 duals but each is a replacement for one I sold or traded so I just put this firmware on the new ones because it was what I'd been using.

 

[almost there]

That mod looks like the Wismec Sinuous Ravage but it's not. I'm curious too now. Feel like I've seen it before.

I'm sure the Tubo firmware is a fine choice. I'm still just using the old myevic.bin because it installs. I own two rx gen3 duals but each is a replacement for one I sold or traded so I just put this firmware on the new ones because it was what I'd been using.

that would be the wismec predator. Careful with that mod, the 510 attachment is press fitted from the outside. Unless they addressed the issue any major pull will yank it out

 

[chrismaddahl]

@bossman and sickmanfraud
Yes, it is the Wismec Predator Sinous P228
Got it for 11€ at this years black friday sale.

@almost there
I think they changed it, looks like it is inside the case.
It doesn't look like you could pull something out.

 

[sickmanfraud]

I'm sure the Tubo firmware is a fine choice. I'm still just using the old myevic.bin because it installs.

I had had problems in the past with installations.

This time I used the updater from Arctic fox and selected the new firmware and it worked on about 6 mods and 2 Tubos all on the first try.

 

[farmerpalmersnt]

Another top tip, if you have the xlr8 stem, you can drop the skinny dab tool/poker they give you inside it, spoon first.

This stays put, even upside down. You can get it out with a little wiggle/tap. Great for keeping it to hand for digging out the screen. I'm yet to inhale it

 

[noobvaperct]

I apologize in advance but did do a quick search here first before asking my question and I don't think I found anything with this exact setup although close...

I just purchased an RBT splinter v1 + XLR8 cooking stem along with a Wismec Reuleaux RX Gen3 (doesn't seem to be favored at all here or anywhere else) and 3 Molicel P26A 18650's because those seem to be good batteries from my research. I also even bought some precision screwdrivers to make sure my mod screws are all tightened when it comes in the mail.

My question is should I keep the stock firmware on this mod and keep to wattage mode or should I download custom firmware and use TCR mode or something else for the best experience with this specific setup?

I've read many times that RBT doesn't recommend TCR and I wouldn't want to void my warranty (if it even came with one). I also and a complete noob and just want the easiest setup possible with best experience. If that means Wattage mode, TC or whatever, I just want the best because it's already a lot to buy all these separate pieces before I even get to use it.

I will likely have more questions if replies come in saying go with custom firmware...

 

[vapviking]

I apologize in advance but did do a quick search here first before asking my question and I don't think I found anything with this exact setup although close...

I just purchased an RBT splinter v1 + XLR8 cooking stem along with a Wismec Reuleaux RX Gen3 (doesn't seem to be favored at all here or anywhere else) and 3 Molicel P26A 18650's because those seem to be good batteries from my research. I also even bought some precision screwdrivers to make sure my mod screws are all tightened when it comes in the mail.

My question is should I keep the stock firmware on this mod and keep to wattage mode or should I download custom firmware and use TCR mode or something else for the best experience with this specific setup?

I've read many times that RBT doesn't recommend TCR and I wouldn't want to void my warranty (if it even came with one). I also and a complete noob and just want the easiest setup possible with best experience. If that means Wattage mode, TC or whatever, I just want the best because it's already a lot to buy all these separate pieces before I even get to use it.

I will likely have more questions if replies come in saying go with custom firmware...

You can keep it simple to start. I think the mod is fine.
Look at the instructions that come with the Splinter (extremely basic).
I think you could stick with watts mode to begin; I stayed with that for months...
Try at 28 to 30 and see how it goes, more if you like. I like it usually around 34, but I think it can depend on the batch of flower in there. Draw slowly and know that the first couple of hits may not be very strong.
After those it becomes much more important that you can feel or tell that it's time to unclick and stop the power before you get near combustion in the stem.
One setting you may want to find sooner (and extend) is the auto shut-off timer, often set to about 8 seconds. You can also just click off and back on before the shutoff.

You may notice 'hot-spotting' when you look at the progress in the chamber and one basic way to even this out is to slightly loosen and then rotate the stem just a little between draws, or after a couple of draws.
Even basic use of this vape has a learning curve, but it's not too crazy if you take it in stages.
Enjoy!

 

[Bazinga]

With the Reuleaux RX Gen3, and the Spinter, in wattage mode, is there a way to display temperature? Curious as to what temp I'm vaping at. Also, are the ohms set by the Splinter or do I need to adjust them on the mod?

 

[noobvaperct]

You can keep it simple to start. I think the mod is fine.
Look at the instructions that come with the Splinter (extremely basic).
I think you could stick with watts mode to begin; I stayed with that for months...
Try at 28 to 30 and see how it goes, more if you like. I like it usually around 34, but I think it can depend on the batch of flower in there. Draw slowly and know that the first couple of hits may not be very strong.
After those it becomes much more important that you can feel or tell that it's time to unclick and stop the power before you get near combustion in the stem.
One setting you may want to find sooner (and extend) is the auto shut-off timer, often set to about 8 seconds. You can also just click off and back on before the shutoff.

You may notice 'hot-spotting' when you look at the progress in the chamber and one basic way to even this out is to slightly loosen and then rotate the stem just a little between draws, or after a couple of draws.
Even basic use of this vape has a learning curve, but it's not too crazy if you take it in stages.
Enjoy!

@vapviking

Thank you!

So does this mean I should keep stock firmware or update to AF or something else? I still hear Wattage mode in custom firmware like AF is better than stock firmware.

Also, auto-shut off, is this literally just shutting off the mod? And is this different from allowing you to draw for more than 10 seconds? I feel like I would want to have a draw longer than 10 seconds, especially if slow draws are the way to go with the splinter.

 

[bossman]

You can keep it simple to start. I think the mod is fine.
Look at the instructions that come with the Splinter (extremely basic).
I think you could stick with watts mode to begin; I stayed with that for months...
Try at 28 to 30 and see how it goes, more if you like. I like it usually around 34, but I think it can depend on the batch of flower in there. Draw slowly and know that the first couple of hits may not be very strong.
After those it becomes much more important that you can feel or tell that it's time to unclick and stop the power before you get near combustion in the stem.
One setting you may want to find sooner (and extend) is the auto shut-off timer, often set to about 8 seconds. You can also just click off and back on before the shutoff.

You may notice 'hot-spotting' when you look at the progress in the chamber and one basic way to even this out is to slightly loosen and then rotate the stem just a little between draws, or after a couple of draws.
Even basic use of this vape has a learning curve, but it's not too crazy if you take it in stages.
Enjoy!

@noobvaperct this advice from @vapviking is spot on. Just attach the Splinter and stick to wattage mode at first. I imagined I was missing out and tried to start out with TCR but just got myself confused.

Once you learn how the Splinter behaves in wattage you'll recognize the differences in technique and results that make TC a pleasure.

With the Reuleaux RX Gen3, and the Spinter, in wattage mode, is there a way to display temperature? Curious as to what temp I'm vaping at. Also, are the ohms set by the Splinter or do I need to adjust them on the mod?

No temp in wattage mode. No need to set resistance either.

You set or accept the cold resistance on the mod but the Splinter ZV2s (in your case) will have a cold reading typically in the .38 to .41 range in my experience.

@vapviking

Thank you!

So does this mean I should keep stock firmware or update to AF or something else? I still hear Wattage mode in custom firmware like AF is better than stock firmware.

Also, auto-shut off, is this literally just shutting off the mod? And is this different from allowing you to draw for more than 10 seconds? I feel like I would want to have a draw longer than 10 seconds, especially if slow draws are the way to go with the splinter.

These are good followup questions. Extending the puff timer to 20 or 25 seconds is what I do but I always put myevic on my rx gen3 dual mods. I'm not sure what the menus look like on the stick firmware.

And yes, put Arctic Fox or a myevic variant on that mod at some point. No big advantage to either one but both are an improvement over the stock firmware for Splinter use. Here's a pic of the settings that have been performing well with mine:

 

[noobvaperct]

@noobvaperct this advice from @vapviking is spot on. Just attach the Splinter and stick to wattage mode at first. I imagined I was missing out and tried to start out with TCR but just got myself confused.

Once you learn how the Splinter behaves in wattage you'll recognize the differences in technique and results that make TC a pleasure.



No temp in wattage mode. No need to set resistance either.

You set or accept the cold resistance on the mod but the Splinter ZV2s (in your case) will have a cold reading typically in the .38 to .41 range in my experience.


These are good followup questions. Extending the puff timer to 20 or 25 seconds is what I do but I always put myevic on my rx gen3 dual mods. I'm not sure what the menus look like on the stick firmware.

And yes, put Arctic Fox or a myevic variant on that mod at some point. No big advantage to either one but both are an improvement over the stock firmware for Splinter use. Here's a pic of the settings that have been performing well with mine:

@bossman

You are a hero. Thank you for your reply. I will try and put AF on the mod when the cells come in tomorrow and stick to wattage mode. The only additions I'm going to try and setup are the draw time up from 10 seconds to 20-25 seconds and look for an auto shut off feature/setting within AF.

Also, I'm assuming your settings here are in TCR/TC mode and NOT in wattage mode?

 

[Bazinga]

Bossman You are spot on "you will have a cold reading typically in the .38 to .41 .."

Just moments ago I received my third replacement of the Z V2. Cole (RBT) sent a Splinter Wenge. Apparently it is an upgrade from the ZV2. Cole sent this because of the 2 defective Z V2s. Really like their customer service !!! What do I need to know, if anything, about using the Wenge as opposed to the Z V2?

 

[noobvaperct]

Bossman You are spot on "you will have a cold reading typically in the .38 to .41 .."

Just moments ago I received my third replacement of the Z V2. Cole (RBT) sent a Splinter Wenge. Apparently it is an upgrade from the ZV2. Cole sent this because of the 2 defective Z V2s. Really like their customer service !!! What do I need to know, if anything, about using the Wenge as opposed to the Z V2?

3rd...holy hell...

 

[Bazinga]

The original order consisted of 2 Z1s. One of them was DOA. The replacement came and that one had a split in the wood and cracked glass. Cole thinks that a shipment from China was defective. I must say, Cole has been extremely responsive to the situation. I wouldn't hesitate to purchase from him again as I am completely satisfied in the way and speed they have taken in resolution of the problem.

 

[bossman]

Edit: ZV2 and V2 flash sale for $99!
https://www.rastabuddhatao.com/product-p/zv2v2.htm

@bossman

You are a hero. Thank you for your reply. I will try and put AF on the mod when the cells come in tomorrow and stick to wattage mode. The only additions I'm going to try and setup are the draw time up from 10 seconds to 20-25 seconds and look for an auto shut off feature/setting within AF.

Also, I'm assuming your settings here are in TCR/TC mode and NOT in wattage mode?

Correct, in wattage you just pick a number and pay attention to the heat and vapor as you draw. I like 28 to 36W for a V2 or V1 and 38 to 46W for a Z.

It's worth mentioning that Splinters perform differently on different mods. They also change with a new firmware controlling the heater and they change with different batteries. They even change with 18650 cells that are more drained, which you'd think would be sorted out by the firmware.

It really is a connoisseur vape and I find those variables to all be positives for the simple reason that you can control them. I have all my Zs on DNAc mods. They are scarce and expensive but they work great. I have one V2 on a DNA250 with a built-in lipo battery and also a V1 and a V2 on the venerable Wismec RX Gen3 Dual (the pic from my last post).

Once you get your rx gen3 producing big hits with great flavor you should take the plunge, upgrade the firmware and explore TC. You should already be a convert with simple wattage though. Some Splinter lovers don't ever fuck with TC. I default to TC because you can stretch out the flavor hits and still get surprisingly dense clouds. I definitely recommend the long XL8R cooling stem.

If you end up loving your Splinter get a Z to go with it. They're a bit slower to get going but have a higher ceiling for flavor and hit size.

Bossman You are spot on "you will have a cold reading typically in the .38 to .41 .."

Just moments ago I received my third replacement of the Z V2. Cole (RBT) sent a Splinter Wenge. Apparently it is an upgrade from the ZV2. Cole sent this because of the 2 defective Z V2s. Really like their customer service !!! What do I need to know, if anything, about using the Wenge as opposed to the Z V2?

That's a really great gesture upgrading you to the wenge Z. I have four Zs, two customs, a ZV2 and a ZV1. I don't actually prefer any one over the others. The biggest differences in the custom Zs is the higher price, the hand assembly by Ryan in the US, and the thicker ground glass joint inside the wooden body. A secondary differences is the less polished finish of the wood with the customs.

I love my ZV1 because it has a noticeably more open draw than the others. I love the ZV2 for the insanely even roasting. My wenge Z is probably the tightest draw of the four but I wouldn't change it because it forces me to slow down and the hits are often super dense. My custom bubinga was my first Z and has seen the most use. That's the one that has been a blue eyed dragon spitting icy fire since I swapped the cells out for those LG HG2s from Liion Wholesale. The bubinga custom Z has discoloration on the lower half of the wood. It's the one I feel most inclined to put wood conditioner on. The Chinese Zs are sanded and varnished so smooth you wouldn't even expect wood conditioner to absorb.

I'm glad you have one of each now. Get in the habit of turning them upside down to remove the stem. You don't want to put stress on the glass joint.

 

[Alex3oe]

Splinter V2 sale for EU guys too at weed gadget:

https://www.weed-gadget.com/product-page/rastabuddahtao-splinter-v2#

 

[vapviking]

And yes, put Arctic Fox or a myevic variant on that mod at some point. No big advantage to either one but both are an improvement over the stock firmware for Splinter use. Here's a pic of the settings that have been performing well with mine:

I have benefitted from this (Sinuous p80/myevic/Splinter V1+).
Just going to TCR has taken me half a year, to screw up the courage to switch from watts mode.
I think I only understand maybe 75% of wtf is going on with the whole box mod, but I've come close to getting it to look like your picture, and it seems to work really well. Heat builds to its' crescendo a little slower than it had in watts mode, so yeah, less hot-spotting and mellower(?....longer?) draws, while still as strong...
I bumped temp setting to 420, just because...
So, thanks!

 

[noobvaperct]

Hey all, just received everything in the mail and I'm super pumped it's the weekend to give this all a try!

I just installed Arctic Fox's latest firmware and I'm only going to be using VW mode until I get real good with this box mod and Splinter. With that said I have a screenshot here of what the current profile looks like and wanted to know from others who have used VW mode to an extent if I needed to alter anything here in the screen shot? Also, the only other setting I changed was to increase the puff cutoff to 30 seconds, up from 10. Would you recommend I change anything else? Thanks!



https://imgur.com/jIPc8yV

 

[jbm]

Hey all, just received everything in the mail and I'm super pumped it's the weekend to give this all a try!

I just installed Arctic Fox's latest firmware and I'm only going to be using VW mode until I get real good with this box mod and Splinter. With that said I have a screenshot here of what the current profile looks like and wanted to know from others who have used VW mode to an extent if I needed to alter anything here in the screen shot? Also, the only other setting I changed was to increase the puff cutoff to 30 seconds, up from 10. Would you recommend I change anything else? Thanks!



https://imgur.com/jIPc8yV

That looks fine to me. You’ll probably bump the wattage to low-mid 30s, but start at 20 and see how you like it. I really don’t use TC on any of my Splinters (2 custom Z, 1 OG, 1 v1) and they’re by far my most used vapes.

 

[noobvaperct]

That looks fine to me. You’ll probably bump the wattage to low-mid 30s, but start at 20 and see how you like it. I really don’t use TC on any of my Splinters (2 custom Z, 1 OG, 1 v1) and they’re by far my most used vapes.

@jbm Thank you!

I've read on here that I can preheat before my first draw at 40W for 5 seconds, then drop it down and do my pulls anywhere in the mid 30s? Is there a guide for something like this or do I just have to get a feel for it because every cell/mod combo makes for a different splinter experience?

 

[bossman]

Hey all, just received everything in the mail and I'm super pumped it's the weekend to give this all a try!

I just installed Arctic Fox's latest firmware and I'm only going to be using VW mode until I get real good with this box mod and Splinter. With that said I have a screenshot here of what the current profile looks like and wanted to know from others who have used VW mode to an extent if I needed to alter anything here in the screen shot? Also, the only other setting I changed was to increase the puff cutoff to 30 seconds, up from 10. Would you recommend I change anything else? Thanks!

https://imgur.com/jIPc8yV

Yeah, the one thing I'd change is to have the watts change in 1 watt increments rather than tenths. And @jbm is right that the the 26 to 36W range is probably all you'll need for fksndir) flavor early or full extraction any time.