Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I have been staying in wattage mode but I think I may try TCR this weekend. The TCR settings are pretty mod specific aren't they rather than being mod independent? TCR and coil I guess.
 
I way prefer TCR mode. No pulsing. Pretty much the same results each time. And, once you get used to it, it's a breeze to skip back to wattage mode.

TCR of 169 and about 400F for me.... for now.
 

TNT_error

Well-Known Member
@cybrguy it's more of a chipset specific kinda deal. DNA is programmed on a software among a couple others, while others program it in the mod then there's the chips with like combo button attacks to activate lol
 
TNT_error,
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HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I tend use the splinter using TRF over TCR for temperature control. Just feel it's a better method if your mod offers it.

Basically the mods isn't reading the temperature but the resistance change to the heater wire as wattage is applied and the wire heats up.

Lets say that your using 316L SS for heater coil. TCR you using a line to decided how the it's reading these change's based on just one value. With TRF using a curve that takes muti resistance changes and values into account. See example below. First row of numbers is temperature second is the expected resistance change.

Problem is theres no real standard even within the same material one company 316 SS might read different than another company 316 ss depending on material quality. Add things like mica and mesh heater really finding the proper resistance values to enter becomes more of a pain.

TRF file
Temperature (degF),Electrical Resistivity
-58,0.923064
68,1
212,1.15
302,1.2
392,1.24
482,1.28
572,1.312
800,1.398

TCR

392, 124
 

Megaton

Well-Known Member
In terms of the basket screen fit inside the stems- is the rim of the basket supposed to sit flush with the rim of the stem? Is it expected that it will stick out a little (a couple of mm). Both of my screens do this.
 
Megaton,
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Lazy Lighting

Well-Known Member
In terms of the basket screen fit inside the stems- is the rim of the basket supposed to sit flush with the rim of the stem? Is it expected that it will stick out a little (a couple of mm). Both of my screens do this.

Nott a fan of the screens that come with the splinter. On Amazon you can by 15 good top hat screens that have a metal ring that pushes flush with the glass. Makes it way easier to stir or dump out loads. They are only 9.99.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073WQJYRS/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A25P6G025Q8BJJ&psc=1
 
Or, just smash flat the ones that came with it.

Mine didn't fit right either but a little smashing and it was fine.

Tip: Don't use the glass stem to smash with. I used a small metal tube (actually, a bong stem. LOL)
 

analytika

Well-Known Member
Nott a fan of the screens that come with the splinter. On Amazon you can by 15 good top hat screens that have a metal ring that pushes flush with the glass. Makes it way easier to stir or dump out loads. They are only 9.99.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073WQJYRS/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A25P6G025Q8BJJ&psc=1
@RastaBuddhaTao has talked from time to time about coming up with some kind of capsule basket. I hope with the China initiative he's freed up to focus more on accessories.
 

Megaton

Well-Known Member
About the screen- i already seem to have a littlw black spot where it appears some herb has fallen onto it and burned in- a gentle scraping hasn't shifted it, would a bit of iso on a cotton bud be ok/ do the trick?
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Personally I wouldn't worry about it. I have a dark spot too, probably from a combustion event. Doesn't effect anything it's just cosmetic. Being inside the joint I don't really notice it.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
That PAM thing... is puzzling. It ends up being the same size as a Zion more or less... so unless we're getting a DNA250(C) board in the process, what's the point/advantage vs a real Zion?

Nobody corrected me but in fact I was completely wrong. The PAM is a Splinter with two exposed electrodes instead of a 510 base. This is much more interesting as it could be potentially soldered directly to a DNA board or any other regulator.

Well...unless I'm completely off-track once again heh!
 

analytika

Well-Known Member
The PAM is a Splinter with two exposed electrodes instead of a 510 base. This is much more interesting as it could be potentially soldered directly to a DNA board or any other regulator.

Well...unless I'm completely off-track once again heh!
I have one. You're spot on this time.

Various experiments ongoing.

There's a @RastaBuddhaTao approved PAM community over on 420vapezone, but a lot of the activity is in private messages.
 
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Summer

Long Island, NY
Listen everyone, Ryan just put up published a IG stream. I tuned in late, but it was chock full of informative stuff specifically in regards to glass stems so I encourage you to watch it. I have to watch it again for the 1st 1/2 that I missed.

OK, I'm now confused. Just went to watch it & Ryan took it down. ??? Anyway, I'll keep checking.
 
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Hippie

Well-Known Member
I generally use cruise mode to warmup the Splinter or about 30 seconds then switch over to manual temp control to save battery power.
I've run it for 5min cruises with no issues too but I think Ryan has said not to run the heater constantly for that long so I've stopped doing that :)
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
I generally use cruise mode to warmup the Splinter or about 30 seconds then switch over to manual temp control to save battery power.
I've run it for 5min cruises with no issues too but I think Ryan has said not to run the heater constantly for that long so I've stopped doing that :)

Isn't a preheat of 30 secs a long time in terms of overheating the weed? And what do you do for subsequent hits? I believe @AJS preheats for 10 sec on the initial hit & subsequent hits are 1 to 2 sec. This is what I've been doing.
 
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