Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[cybrguy]

Yeah, to avoid getting it lost in the move I think I would wait until he gives the OK. JMO.

 

[little maggie]

You have a Cruise mode. In the Vaping menu, the Prot. setting determines the timeout for it. What the firmware is actually doing is hi-jacking the long fire protection timeout and progress bar. The firmware for most box mods sets this to 10 seconds (remember they're mostly used for e-juice atomizers) and they don't provide a way to change it. One of the advantages of the Tubo firmware is that you can change this setting. I have mine set to 20 seconds. When Cruise is engaged, the firmware behaves as though I'm holding the button down for this length of time. I can interrupt it with a click or let it time out.

If you are in TCR mode and you double-click (assuming that you haven't changed the default), you're in Cruise mode. If you are using Power mode and double-click, you still get Cruise mode in the sense that the firmware simulates holding down the button. It's not doing temperature control, however, it's just sending the wattage you've set to the heater until it times out. If you simply hold down the button in Power mode, the bar still pops up and says Cruise, but what it's actually doing is showing the progress towards the long fire protection timeout. The difference here is that once it times out, the mod displays "long fire protection" and you'll have to click once to make that disappear.

The Splinter (and I assume the Tubo) won't be harmed by a longer timeout. I've had mine up to 60 seconds for test purposes.

Thanks. I've been fooling around with another vape so haven't reloaded the firmware yet. Right now, I have no cruise mode no matter which buttons I push. I tried to do the same settings AJS did- especially lowering the watts but I probably messed something up.

 

[grokit]

I haven't tried cruise mode, tc, or any alternate soft/firmware with my splinter yet.
I'm still getting the hang of how it handles plain old wattage, with a few different mods.

Without further ado, here's my mini-splinter fashion show

This geekvape is the highest performing, it's got the best cpu and that phat 26650 going for it. It seems to offer the punchiest power, as it's the only mod that I've come close to combustion with the splinter. It's also water/shock-proof. I wouldn't mind a usb port for charging, but that would likely make it less waterproof. It runs the splinter very efficiently; I've been using it at 26.7 watts lately which is lower than the others.

This one is cute and compact, but its splinter performance drops off rather quickly, like after two hits. It's a single 18650 that only gets up to 40 watts overall; I think you need their 70 watt model minimum

This one might be my favorite so far, as it's not so tall with the long stem as the geekvape is and while it takes a few more watts to get going, it still runs very efficiently. I would say it's a smoother experience than the geekvape, and I believe this one also lets me customize the firmware so maybe I'll give that a try

edit: I don't mind the 10-second stock firmware timeout with my splinter, as it gives me a reference for pre-heat time. I'm more of a ripper than a sipper; I like that one big hit, and I almost always vape on my own. Since I'm usually done for a while after that hit, I'm pre-heating almost every time I use my splinter.

Overall I'm really digging my new splinter and it's pretty much all I've been using lately

 

[Summer]

Granted I can turn the Splinter to 40W and get vapor nearly instantly but I don't consider that regular usage. It's just not a practical method to use that vape imo.

AJ, can you elaborate on what you mean by this statement?

mod note: moved from Milaaana II thread to avoid topic derail

 

[Summer]

As you see above, my post was moved from the Mi2 thread to here. @AJS replied to me via pm because "Hey don't wanna get yelled at for off topic so I'll just answer here." And you were right AJ!

Here, to share with you all, is AJ's reply which is now in the appropriate thread:

"Basically my Splinter high temp is like 30W, but it takes like 5 seconds preheat to really get going. If I were to crank it up to 40W, I would need barely any preheat but it would probably combust within seconds. You would need to sit there and pulse the trigger on your vape which would also, in my case, activate cruise mode and would just be a disaster at 40W. So while you can get vapor faster, the end result with my given mod just wouldn't be good."

He went on to say, "On top of that it also takes longer once drawing to get vapor because the airflow is different. In the end it's just overall longer from cold to get the biggest hit you want. To most people it probably doesn't make a difference, but when I have 30 seconds to get a huge rip during a break in a video game, I'll reach for the Mi2 because it's just faster. I guess most people won't care tho. But I want INSTANT gratification sometimes based on my given situation."

I can't wait to get my Splinter! I'm #38!

 

[pakalolo]

As you see above, my post was moved from the Mi2 thread to here. @AJS replied to me via pm because "Hey don't wanna get yelled at for off topic so I'll just answer here." And you were right AJ!

Here, to share with you all, is AJ's reply which is now in the appropriate thread:

"Basically my Splinter high temp is like 30W, but it takes like 5 seconds preheat to really get going. If I were to crank it up to 40W, I would need barely any preheat but it would probably combust within seconds. You would need to sit there and pulse the trigger on your vape which would also, in my case, activate cruise mode and would just be a disaster at 40W. So while you can get vapor faster, the end result with my given mod just wouldn't be good."

He went on to say, "On top of that it also takes longer once drawing to get vapor because the airflow is different. In the end it's just overall longer from cold to get the biggest hit you want. To most people it probably doesn't make a difference, but when I have 30 seconds to get a huge rip during a break in a video game, I'll reach for the Mi2 because it's just faster. I guess most people won't care tho. But I want INSTANT gratification sometimes based on my given situation."

I can't wait to get my Splinter! I'm #38!

Thanks for making that reply public, because otherwise I moved your post for nothing.

@AJS: To be clear, nobody would have been yelled at, the posts just would have been moved after the fact. In general, moderators will either ignore one or two or even half a dozen off topic posts if the derail has stopped, or will post a request to return to the topic. If the information is more useful in another thread, we move the posts.

 

[hippogriff]

(cross posted to the 510 mod thread, too)

I... KNOW... EVERYTHING!!

No, totally don't. Best I can tell is the mod industry's focus is controlling max wattage for vaping vegetable glycerin w additives, and flower vapes are a weird little (fucking awesome) niche. So, it's kinda like buying a stereo, where every option is 100s of watts beyond my reasonable needs. And in that context, the DNA75 (which is phasing out and transitioning to the DNA75C, w color display and different button layout) is the most supported board/chip that totally covers our needs w/o going crazy far beyond them. Interface is simple, results are reliable, on-board charging is trusted, I am satisfied.

So, I've been searching for my favorite form factor - the DNA75 is in a ton of available mods, but it's too much curves and 3D-designed textures and huge logos for me, and there are small shops offering custom-CNC'd enclosures and mountings to match the board. Can you just get a $7 aluminum enclosure and attack it w a dremel? Yeah, but w my Splinter I'm down to one device, so I went a little far building the one mod for me.

First, I started w the copper, because pretty, and this was the best I could find. It's heavy & beautiful, more of a party vape than an EDC.

Then I went for as-much-in-as-little, and found the anodized green enclosure, which just barely fits a 26650.

Finally, I found the anodized gray enclosure (link is to a different color, I think they're running out as they switch over to DNA75C layout), designed to snugly fit an 18650. I don't think I can get any smaller or more simple, it feels great in my hand, and it's just big enough in one dimension that I can put it down on the table and the Splinter is protected from scratches.

I feel done, now my only problem is I have too many mods.

 

[AJS]

I can't wait to get my Splinter! I'm #38!

I really think you're going to love it. Wattage mode I see similar to a Zion, a step under maybe. TC cruise is more like a desktop. I should use mine more but I don't like how wobbly it is after I accidentally threw it lol.

I... KNOW... EVERYTHING!!

Humbling.

Then I went for as-much-in-as-little, and found the anodized green enclosure, which just barely fits a 26650.

Dude this smaller green one is absolutely awesome. Well done.

 

[Shit Snacks]

(cross posted to the 510 mod thread, too)

I... KNOW... EVERYTHING!!

No, totally don't. Best I can tell is the mod industry's focus is controlling max wattage for vaping vegetable glycerin w additives, and flower vapes are a weird little (fucking awesome) niche. So, it's kinda like buying a stereo, where every option is 100s of watts beyond my reasonable needs. And in that context, the DNA75 (which is phasing out and transitioning to the DNA75C, w color display and different button layout) is the most supported board/chip that totally covers our needs w/o going crazy far beyond them. Interface is simple, results are reliable, on-board charging is trusted, I am satisfied.

So, I've been searching for my favorite form factor - the DNA75 is in a ton of available mods, but it's too much curves and 3D-designed textures and huge logos for me, and there are small shops offering custom-CNC'd enclosures and mountings to match the board. Can you just get a $7 aluminum enclosure and attack it w a dremel? Yeah, but w my Splinter I'm down to one device, so I went a little far building the one mod for me.

First, I started w the copper, because pretty, and this was the best I could find. It's heavy & beautiful, more of a party vape than an EDC.

Then I went for as-much-in-as-little, and found the anodized green enclosure, which just barely fits a 26650.

Finally, I found the anodized gray enclosure (link is to a different color, I think they're running out as they switch over to DNA75C layout), designed to snugly fit an 18650. I don't think I can get any smaller or more simple, it feels great in my hand, and it's just big enough in one dimension that I can put it down on the table and the Splinter is protected from scratches.

I feel done, now my only problem is I have too many mods.

posted in open source thread before I saw it in here, but those are amazing and I would love to buy a complete grey one for my eventual Splinter if possible since I dont know mods...

 

[hippogriff]

posted in open source thread before I saw it in here, but those are amazing and I would love to buy a complete grey one for my eventual Splinter if possible since I dont know mods...

I looked into this as a side job, but each of these builds was ~$100 worth of parts, and you can buy complete DNA75 mods for around that price, look here for examples. So I don't think I could make a sustainable business based off others design work (for enclosures, actuators & mounting kits), maybe later in the year when I've got my CNC skills up to speed... but @Shit Snacks if you just want what you want, like I did, PM me, I'll put something together to support a fellow FCer.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I looked into this as a side job, but each of these builds was ~$100 worth of parts, and you can buy complete DNA75 mods for around that price, look here for examples. So I don't think I could make a sustainable business based off others design work (for enclosures, actuators & mounting kits), maybe later in the year when I've got my CNC skills up to speed... but @Shit Snacks if you just want what you want, like I did, PM me, I'll put something together to support a fellow FCer.

Thanks man! I'ma think on it a bit, no idea when I'll have a Splinter so am in no rush. Was thinking that sleek single batt mod would be a nice option for DNAchip on the go, while I could then get a dual (or triple) batt mod to run the Tubo software at home... Though maybe I will just get one of the dual batt DNA mods you linked to, thinking the LostVape Paranormal DNA166 with red leather and rosewood panel perhaps...

 

[Summer]

@hippogriff, how long does your mod with the (1) 18650 last before needing to be recharged?

 

[hippogriff]

@hippogriff, how long does your mod with the (1) 18650 last before needing to be recharged?

5-6 bowls, going for low temp extraction

 

[Shit Snacks]

5-6 bowls, going for low temp extraction

Oooh that's actually a really nice surprise! May not need a dual at all then lol we shall see

 

[little maggie]

My splinter has gotten really hot and I'm not sure how to fix it. I have the temp set for 360. It's the splinter itself and not the vapor that is so hot. It's gotten too hot to hold when in cruise mode.

 

[VAPEHUNTER]

My splinter has gotten really hot and I'm not sure how to fix it. I have the temp set for 360. It's the splinter itself and not the vapor that is so hot. It's gotten too hot to hold when in cruise mode.

Mine is doing something similar. It makes some popping and ticking sounds or sometimes even a small type of a high pitched squeal. I'm using an Evic vtc mini and I've been running my Splinter at 28W or 32W to get clouds but my ABV still comes out light green. My Evic has even given me a "Devise Too Hot" notice a couple of times. I'd like to send it in to RBT but they are closed till April.
It's all good though I have enough Vapes to hold me over till they get back.

 

[AJS]

My splinter has gotten really hot and I'm not sure how to fix it. I have the temp set for 360. It's the splinter itself and not the vapor that is so hot. It's gotten too hot to hold when in cruise mode.

How long are you cruising for? If i cruise for a few minutes it definitely starts to get hot. I try to only cruise for a hit or 2, or a quick sesh.

 

[little maggie]

I just reinstalled the software because I didn't have a cruise setting before. I set it for 70sec. I am going to try it in manual with no cruise and if that doesn't help try it with the wismec. I've been using the evic single battery until now.

 

[sickmanfraud]

How long are you cruising for? If i cruise for a few minutes it definitely starts to get hot. I try to only cruise for a hit or 2, or a quick sesh.

I do not recall that information in any of your prior posts.

Can you please elaborate on how hot the splinter gets and is it useful for convection session or only 1-2 hits at a time.

 

[AJS]

I do not recall that information in any of your prior posts.

Can you please elaborate on how hot the splinter gets and is it useful for convection session or only 1-2 hits at a time.

Cruise mode would be like holding the Milaana button down for minutes at a time. The Splinter was not built for it. If you just use the Splinter like it's intended you don't run into this (only press the button during hits ... it's on demand anyway). I mentioned I can cruise on lower temps no biggie but higher temps or very long cruises the wood definitely heats up.

It's useful for convection sessions definitely when the trigger isn't permanently held down for minutes at a time. Again, I can cruise for a few hits no problem. In the end, if you aren't hitting there's no point in having the heater cruising, it's just unnecessary wasted battery and extra heat. But it's definitely fun to do sometimes lol.

Just to clarify terminology in case someone doesn't know, cruise mode is from a downloadable software where the button is automatically permanently pressed down during a session. It's not standard for the Splinter.

 

[grokit]

Just to clarify terminology in case someone doesn't know, cruise mode is from a downloadable software where the button is automatically permanently pressed down during a session. It's not standard for the Splinter.

I seem to recall ryan saying that he doesn't mess with cruise or even tc modes.

So I don't either

 

[KeroZen]

I warned you guys that cruise mode was designed for the Tubo and not for the Splinter. Several people answered that I worried too much and that it was perfectly fine. But of course it's going to make everything hot and who knows you might even possibly char your wood if you are not careful, use at your own risk!

Heat will also transfer from the SS base to the mod body and internals, potentially leading to the error message. Something that is also not a problem in the Tubo as the heater is far away from the mod and connected by wires and not a 510 port.

But as for the wasted battery claim, against all odds it appears having the heater close to set temperature at all times is more efficient than doing heat-up and cool-down cycles. That's what they discovered in the Tubo thread and why this cruise mode became widespread.

There has to be a treshold under which it's no longer more efficient though: if you set a cruise mode of say 5 minutes but only draw once during that time frame, obviously it's going to be more wasteful than driving it on demand.

 

[little maggie]

The problem is TMI and not in an easy to read format. I didn't know that RBT said cruise mode wasn't a good idea. What about adding the NFE software. Is that also not recommended?

 

[AJS]

Hey everyone. Got a video of the Splinter vs the Milaana 2. The Splinter was on a lower temp than I thought, I think my settings got switched up. Still got the point across tho. Hope it answers some questions!
Edit: aw first minute of the video didn't upload

 

[StonerSloth]

The problem is TMI and not in an easy to read format. I didn't know that RBT said cruise mode wasn't a good idea. What about adding the NFE software. Is that also not recommended?

It's not the specific software that is/isn't recommended - it's the operating mode. There is no problem running custom firmware, but officially only variable wattage mode is supported by RBT:

Thanks for the solid explaination of TC @KeroZen the Splinter heater resistance changes with your draw. As it heats up, the resistance increases. As it cools it drops. This, coupled with the resistance changes internally to the mod and at the convection will also vary. This total variance is a large percentage of the sub-ohm resistance. For this reason @RastaBuddhaTao recommends and only supports wattage mode.

The heater is designed such that at a constant voltage the heater "boost" as you draw as the cool Inlet air drops the resistance and the current thereby increases to keep up.

To date, most that play with TC mode return to the voltage / wattage mode in the end. However, @Other Side has had good luck in TC mode on a high quality mod.

@RastaBuddhaTao only supports using wattage mode with the Splinter. The smart and brave at heart can venture into the realm of trying to hit a moving target with an algorithm

That said, I have had good results using ArcticFox in TC mode and it has not caused me any problems and never combusted or anything. I am not very familiar with exactly how Tubo's 'Cruise Control' is programmed (I would assume there is some sort of resistance-based draw sensor, so it's not like it's running at 30W for 2 minutes straight..... is it???) but it seems like a bad idea to use it on a device that was not designed for it imho....

TC mode is very unlikely to cause you any problems (again imho) - worst case is maybe you miss your mark and combust. But cruise control mode is sorta playing with fire (maybe literally!)