I think the Z on a DNA model is the ideal personally, I don't notice anything with heat up that doesn't make me feel like its just instant... The temperature consistency and thorough extraction should be perfect for anyone, but I only know with my own custom purpleheart Z compared to using V2 on my RX DNA250.
@cybrguy you should probably try to snap up that Drone mod somewhere on sale too!
Oh and to get back on topic to the actual thread we are in (which is the regular Splinter thread and not the Z thread apparently
)... I am still getting very nice results with my V2 on the P80 with ArcticFox TCR using those settings I posted earlier. Check out this autofired hit at 390F, I did spin the Splinter slowly and carefully around (fortunately this custom adapter is actually smooth glass, not frosted even) as I took the hit which helped spread out the slight hotspot as you can see below (a steady draw through water helped too). This was the second hit off this bowl however I did add some fresh green on top since I started with a smaller load for first hit:
Sorry again for the still shitty camera, that's 390F for 29.8 seconds (max cut off is 33s) with an average (I presume?) wattage of 19.2 during the hit (max is set to 43w, though profile is at 35w) and my cold resistance is locked from earlier along with my set PID and TCR values.