Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
No, this will be my first V. Prior to this all my RBT stuff has been made here. And all by Ryan I think. All the way back to my beta Zion. My friend has used my Milaana and liked it. I may lend him my Splinter, but I think I need to get him a DNA mod so I don't get it back with combustion flavor... :lol:
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I think the Z on a DNA model is the ideal personally, I don't notice anything with heat up that doesn't make me feel like its just instant... The temperature consistency and thorough extraction should be perfect for anyone, but I only know with my own custom purpleheart Z compared to using V2 on my RX DNA250.

@cybrguy you should probably try to snap up that Drone mod somewhere on sale too! ;)

Oh and to get back on topic to the actual thread we are in (which is the regular Splinter thread and not the Z thread apparently:ko:)... I am still getting very nice results with my V2 on the P80 with ArcticFox TCR using those settings I posted earlier. Check out this autofired hit at 390F, I did spin the Splinter slowly and carefully around (fortunately this custom adapter is actually smooth glass, not frosted even) as I took the hit which helped spread out the slight hotspot as you can see below (a steady draw through water helped too). This was the second hit off this bowl however I did add some fresh green on top since I started with a smaller load for first hit:

IMG-20191201-221733452.jpg


IMG-20191201-221702858.jpg


Sorry again for the still shitty camera, that's 390F for 29.8 seconds (max cut off is 33s) with an average (I presume?) wattage of 19.2 during the hit (max is set to 43w, though profile is at 35w) and my cold resistance is locked from earlier along with my set PID and TCR values.
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
For some reason my favorite the LG HG2s are much pricier than the Samsung 30Qs and 25Rs. Are they really worth spending half again or double the price of the others? The slightly thicker 30Qs are sometimes a problem depending on what you put them in, tho they are very good batteries.
I'm adding @KeroZen to the post, but any answers are appreciated.
 
cybrguy,

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
For some reason my favorite the LG HG2s are much pricier than the Samsung 30Qs and 25Rs. Are they really worth spending half again or double the price of the others? The slightly thicker 30Qs are sometimes a problem depending on what you put them in, tho they are very good batteries.
I'm adding @KeroZen to the post, but any answers are appreciated.
Might be recency bias but I too prefer the HG2s. And I prefer the VTC5A to the 30Q for Splinter mods. I have three of my 30Qs in a Fluxer Deluxe IH, which seems a good use for them.

HG2s are backordered at Illumn but $5.50 plus shipping is what I paid.

https://www.illumn.com/18650-lg-18650g2-3000mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html

Hol up:
https://liionwholesale.com/collecti...top-wholesale-discount?variant=15414707093598

Crisis averted. Glad I involved myself because I wouldn't have found that HG2 deal otherwise and I have two mods that still need batteries.
 
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bossman,
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
For some reason my favorite the LG HG2s are much pricier than the Samsung 30Qs and 25Rs. Are they really worth spending half again or double the price of the others? The slightly thicker 30Qs are sometimes a problem depending on what you put them in, tho they are very good batteries.
I'm adding @KeroZen to the post, but any answers are appreciated.

30Qs are fine save for the wrapping, they have same 3000mAh and amps (Sammy underrated and LG overrated so both are around 18A in reality) so you can save or shell out.

25Rs are like LG HE4 with 2500mAh but both have higher amps at 20A than the cells with more charge capacity so they may be a better option for single-celled mods though they won't last we long as HG2 and 30Q ofcourse...

I just ordered two HE4 and two 25R from IMR on sale, since shipping is pricey the total came to about $4.50 per batt. I got them for my P80 and Tubo singles, but may use the 25Rs as a pair for duals depending how they fit wrapping-wise
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I normally order batteries from IMR or Illumn, but that is a great price from Liion. I think I'll try them out.

Gonna keep my eyes out for a crazy deal on the Drone.

Sorry about the battery discussion in here... :uhoh:
 

kbrown5523

Hopping in Washington
Oh and to get back on topic to the actual thread we are in (which is the regular Splinter thread and not the Z thread apparently:ko:)... I am still getting very nice results with my V2 on the P80 with ArcticFox TCR using those settings I posted earlier. Check out this autofired hit at 390F, I did spin the Splinter slowly and carefully around (fortunately this custom adapter is actually smooth glass, not frosted even) as I took the hit which helped spread out the slight hotspot as you can see below (a steady draw through water helped too). This was the second hit off this bowl however I did add some fresh green on top since I started with a smaller load for first hit:
I got gifted the same setup, a V2 with a p80, I'm still trying to figure it out. I don't know why I'm hesitating to put Arctic Fox on it, sounds like I need to bite the bullet and just do it. Anything I should know before I do?

Also, I have some 18650 batteries that I use with my Focus Pro, does anyone know if I can use them in the P80?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I got gifted the same setup, a V2 with a p80, I'm still trying to figure it out. I don't know why I'm hesitating to put Arctic Fox on it, sounds like I need to bite the bullet and just do it. Anything I should know before I do?

Also, I have some 18650 batteries that I use with my Focus Pro, does anyone know if I can use them in the P80?

I already had loaded ArcticFox on a different mod previously per instructions from MistVape, so that helped make it easier with the P80 for me... However I had forgot exactly what I needed to do flash firmware, so a quick search brought me to the NFE tools forum (which is where you can download everything you need) for clear instructions and it was extremely simple. Then setting everything up in the software and uploading those settings was also super easy, I pretty much checked every single tab and sub-tab for various personalization settings (most can be ignored). I don't remember what I did for surmyevic on my G3D, but I think I like ArcticFox better anyhow.

No idea about the FocusVape batteries, would have to find out what their specs are if it is some generic battery... Need flat-top 18650 with 20A
 

wm762

Product Tester / Reviewer
after having this for a month, i can say that the splinter version 2 is really good. i no longer have the spark problem. it was well worth the purchase.

my question i have is , can i vape hash out of it?
 

VapeKnight

Day Tripper
I love my splinter and have had great success with it. I use it in wattage mode set to 36W. The last two times I tried to use it I could not get any vapor. I could feel it getting warm and when I looked down inside I could see a faint red glow but no results. My wismec display said unit too hot... any thoughts ? thanks
 
VapeKnight,

RxPlorer

Well-Known Member
I love my splinter and have had great success with it. I use it in wattage mode set to 36W. The last two times I tried to use it I could not get any vapor. I could feel it getting warm and when I looked down inside I could see a faint red glow but no results. My wismec display said unit too hot... any thoughts ? thanks
Was this with the standard straight stem? I had this problem once with my splinter z - it was due to a wooden stem with a poor fit. Air was being drawn from around the stem instead of through the heater.

also check the gold-colored fastener in the center of the splinter’s 510 thread. Make sure it’s very snug just don’t over tighten it.
 
RxPlorer,
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VapeKnight

Day Tripper
I'm using the xlr8 cooling stem. I did try to unscrew and then re-attatch the splinter with no luck. I blocked the air holes with my fingers which resulted in restricted air intake so I ruled out a bad seal. I'll try again tonight.
 
VapeKnight,

almost there

Well-Known Member
I'm using the xlr8 cooling stem. I did try to unscrew and then re-attatch the splinter with no luck. I blocked the air holes with my fingers which resulted in restricted air intake so I ruled out a bad seal. I'll try again tonight.
Has the resistance gone up at all since this happened? It could be a short and if so you'll see a permanent change in the resting resistance. This happened to one of my earlier units, sadly there's no DIY fixes for such a case
 
almost there,
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Hippie

Well-Known Member
Have you checked the top hat or stem screen?
I find the performance drops off as the dust n stuff builds up, in and above the screen.
 
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VapeKnight

Day Tripper
I noticed last night that the inside glass liner is broken in several places. I would have to guess this is the problem. very disappointing since I take meticulous care of all my vapes and I'm not using this at a high temp. Fingers crossed that there is a warranty otherwise I don't think I would replace it.
 
VapeKnight,

herbalism

Active Member
I noticed last night that the inside glass liner is broken in several places. I would have to guess this is the problem. very disappointing since I take meticulous care of all my vapes and I'm not using this at a high temp. Fingers crossed that there is a warranty otherwise I don't think I would replace it.
That's unfortunate. Did you ever hit it against something, even if slightly? Only asking because I take care of my v2 (except for the other day when it fell onto the ground from sitting height!) and I'm worried about unprovoked and unexplainable breakage.
 
herbalism,

gooroo

Well-Known Member
I noticed last night that the inside glass liner is broken in several places. I would have to guess this is the problem. very disappointing since I take meticulous care of all my vapes and I'm not using this at a high temp. Fingers crossed that there is a warranty otherwise I don't think I would replace it.

Sorry to hear but same exact thing happened to me....Twice. Very disappointing. I think that because the inner glass piece is cut from something else and the edge is left rough and sharp, that there are many stress risers that will facilitate easy cracking and breaking. The cut edge should be smoothed and polished and it isn't.
 

VapeKnight

Day Tripper
I keep my splinter attatched to my wismec in a protective case. It only comes out to be used and then promptly put away again. RBT does do glass repair, so I will check the cost and decide if it is worth the money. I have a Tinymight on order because it seems like a very similar type of vape but more convenient/portable. if it is, then the splinter might not get much use anyway...

gooroo, did you have yours repaired? if so do you know the cost ? thanks
 
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gooroo

Well-Known Member
gooroo, did you have yours repaired? if so do you know the cost ? thanks

I did not have it repaired. I think I read on here that it was ~$45. for the repair +shipping. Unless the design problem is fixed, I think cracks will keep happening. I'm just not going to risk my hard earned money on this and am looking for a better made alternative. It was great while it lasted though.
 

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
I did not have it repaired. I think I read on here that it was ~$45. for the repair +shipping. Unless the design problem is fixed, I think cracks will keep happening. I'm just not going to risk my hard earned money on this and am looking for a better made alternative. It was great while it lasted though.

Not to detract from the Splinters, but the iHeat from @Alan has no glass.
 
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shenzen23

Member
Hi, all - apologies for the noob question (particularly because I’m certain this question has been asked many times on this thread), but I can’t find instructions for how to download TC firmware for my evic mini 2. Every thread I see includes a dead link. I am very new to box mods in general, and am receiving my Splinter V2 in the mail today. Any guidance on how and where to download the necessary TC firmware for my evic mini 2 would be much appreciated.
 
shenzen23,

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Hi, all - apologies for the noob question (particularly because I’m certain this question has been asked many times on this thread), but I can’t find instructions for how to download TC firmware for my evic mini 2. Every thread I see includes a dead link. I am very new to box mods in general, and am receiving my Splinter V2 in the mail today. Any guidance on how and where to download the necessary TC firmware for my evic mini 2 would be much appreciated.
Easiest way to get started is to flash your evic with Arctic Fox and setup TC for the various tabs in the app.

https://nfeteam.org/

Here's an earlier post of mine with example settings for TC on a wismec rxg3d:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-187#post-1411195
 
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