vapviking
Old & In the Way
Thanks, now I see he hasn't removed the item, but it is still 'out of stock'.
Now you've got me salivating over a TNT piece! They're just a little beyond my budget atm.
Discontinued The Splinter by RBT
- Thread starter RastaBuddhaTao
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Now you've got me salivating over a TNT piece! They're just a little beyond my budget atm.
Chicken Charlie
MicroDose Cognoscente
Late to this post...and needless to say I'm sorry for your loss. I've experienced (as have others) the dilemma of a resistant stem. I have found that a light coating of vegetable glycerine to the insert portion of the roasting tube can mitigate the problem.
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sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the idea. Would a drop of coconut oil do the same (as long as it is not in the air/vapor path)?
Chicken Charlie
MicroDose Cognoscente
Yes...any organic-based vegetable oil applied to the bottom (exterior portion) of the stem will suffice.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
I don't remember if it was splinter or Splinter Z thread, but someone was looking for a GONG for an RBT Device.
This might do:https://vgoodiez.com/collections/ac...ale-male-glass-adapter-with-handle-22mm-depth.
This might do:https://vgoodiez.com/collections/ac...ale-male-glass-adapter-with-handle-22mm-depth.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
I have had some sticky pieces in the past and I got some joint lube to use on them. Takes very little and keeps it from happening. It is in a chapstick (lip balm) like dispenser. The brand I bought was "Smooth Slide" but there are many.
Frankly chapstick might be just as effective and a lot cheaper.
knnastur
Active Member
Hi, I would like to know if any of these stems are worth for my Splinter v1+
https://m.es.aliexpress.com/item/32517458958.html
https://m.es.aliexpress.com/item/32517458958.html
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I used mine on the bronze Reuleaux RX250 at first for the TC, but switched to a blue Sinuous P80 bc of the size and weight. I have my Z on an RXgen3Dual which would be nice for the V2 too I think... It really depends what you like best, honestly none of them are perfect and there are so many options outside of these that I've never seen in person. I chose these, for how they can rest on their side with the Splinter clearing enough to float above the edge itself, no risk of pressure on the connection. They're all pretty compact and look good (enough) to me, but I think there must be something even better available somewhere or will be someday...
vapviking
Old & In the Way
Those stems appear to be standard dimension, the diameter (18mm, sometimes also described as 19mm) is correct, but the length of a standard joint is too long. 22mm is standard length, but Splinter V1, V1+ and V2 use a 19mm length. The 22 will bump into the bottom screen before it seats all the way down in the joint.
Warranty card also says not to use standard glass...
EDIT;
@Consolidated 1, in post after this one, is saying that 22mm depth fits in the V1+.
If this is correct, then my explanation here is not.
Can anyone further elucidate?
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Consolidated 1
Unapproved commercial account.
Hi all. My V1+ has 19/22 size stems.
Works great and if you turn up side down the mod, the stem does not fall, as I read some pages before.
Works great and if you turn up side down the mod, the stem does not fall, as I read some pages before.
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vapviking
Old & In the Way
Mine said so on the invoice.
And, I think they really weren't shipping +'s until the first run of V1's were gone.
knnastur
Active Member
Mine in the invoice brings V1 but in the box it brings V1 so I had the doubt
vapviking
Old & In the Way
Here's one shred of history that speaks to the length of the joint on a Splinter (19/22), and says that according to the inventor, they were transitioning to the 19/19. This was back in July 2018, before the Splinter V1 or V1+ were available. So, it's still my belief that these models employ the 19/19 size stem joint.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yeah all regular Chinese Splinters are 19/19 though there is variance in glass and other stems may fit, you are at risk of damaging your unit. This happened to me so I can't recommend anyone even try.
almost there
Well-Known Member
If you're after the history of the splinter joint lengths- any splinters produced after July 2018 is 19/19. Prior to that was the "wait list" units that were 19/22. Easiest way to tell is to look at the rda deck to see if it has the triangles or the serial numbers in the bottom.
RBT is happy to announce the appointment of our Customer Care Concierge, Cyndi. With decades of customer service experience and a track record of success I am so happy to know all the RBT peeps will be in good hands. She has been lurking here on FC and will be getting an account soon. Cyndi is also in the process of starting up the buddharastatao IG account again and has plans to revive the YouTube in the coming months. Finally having expert coverage on the front end of the business is sure to shore up the RBT biz. Please welcome Cyndi to her new challenging and critical position on the RBT Team.
Look for her contact info on the www soon. keep in mind that sales and service is handled through the retailer of purchase but I am sure Cyndi will be happy to help i any way she can.
Keep Rockin'
Ryan
Look for her contact info on the www soon. keep in mind that sales and service is handled through the retailer of purchase but I am sure Cyndi will be happy to help i any way she can.
Keep Rockin'
Ryan
I kind of regret buying a v2. After a month of use, I still get hot spots all the time and I can't figure out how to get even ABV. My mod is Paranormal on DNA250c, I tried the TCR profile made by Herbie, but I have to bump temp to 370 to get vapor going, but then it chars the bud like crazy. Tried through water, same sh*t. Tried drawing reeeeally slowly, same sh*t. Best results are in wattage mode, 33 watts with boost set to 10. But I have to feather the button all the time to avoid charring. And its either the ABV is very uneven (darker in the center, greener around it), or I get partially black ABV.
The effects are usually nice though. But everything else kind of sucks.
The effects are usually nice though. But everything else kind of sucks.
vapviking
Old & In the Way
You'll probably get more than one suggestion, here's one method I landed on and use most of the time. I like the simplicity and the love the experience. I've never used a DNA mod, nor anything like TC (afaik!). My goal has been to keep it simple, as far as the learning curve is concerned.
I use a Sinuous P80 and my_sur evic (sp?) in wattage mode (power mode) with cruise (auto-fire) and time set to infinity, watts at 12, sometimes 13 depending on flower.
It's really just an 'always on' state at low wattage. It requires a minute or more warmup, which I start as I'm loading the stem. Production is slow to begin, and so the initial vape is wispy but very flavorful. Then it builds and just continues to build and produce huge results, with the bowl yielding a lot of hits, all at 12 watts. Slow draw is the way to go, but the open air flow means this is not a small draw. After the first few hits, I loosen and turn the stem about a quarter turn, and then again every few.
The only tricky part (for me) is getting the autofire first started; it takes something like one 2-second click, then two 1-second clicks.
With my mod, regular power mode is has to be re-clicked to stay 'on' (I think I have it set to max, which is 15 seconds). If using a bubbler I will use this mode at 28 to 36 watts and it is more like an unregulated vape, you have to 'feel' it so you can turn it off in time to not char. And turn the stem like after every hit. Most often I prefer the other method I've described.
bluegray
Well-Known Member
I only have the V1, so I can't really comment on V2, but I would be surprised if any V2 changes could cause the hotspots you are describing. In the end, it is still hot air passing through the screen and herb, and the difference between TC and wattage mode would only affect how hot the air becomes throughout the session. The way the air passes through the herb is what is causing hotspots. But as I've said, not sure what changes were made to V2 in this regard.
Maybe you should try different ways of packing the screen or a different screen altogether. Try different grinds and see if packing it a little tighter or looser makes a difference. You want to try to make the hot air go through the herb as uniformly as possible, as hotspots are the result of some of the herb not getting to the hot air, and some getting too much. The draw speed and wattage determines how much hot air passes through the herb.
Thanks, your method sounds awesome, but:
a) looks like DNA 250c doesn't have an auto-fire mode at all
b) you're using the Splinter almost like a session vape, but I have Solo 2 for that (and it works perfectly for longer sessions). I'd prefer to use my Splinter for on-demand, quick extraction.
I imagine boost at 10 and feathering the power button will cause charring. IMO, boosting with an already hot coil never works well. Instead, reduce boost to 0 and try at 33-35 watts and feather the button as needed. This will take a second longer to get to temp, but will hopefully provide nicer hits without charring.
I too have not had good luck with my Splinter running in TC mode with a DNA250c. It is my only 510 that I can't get to work well in TC. But I am more than happy with the Splinters performance in watt mode.
I always got hotspots using the basket screen. I switched to using a normal screen at the bottom of the joint and used the basket screen as a cap. Pack the joint so there is a space between the material and the bottom of the basket screen.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
I would suggest the following as part of a solution to get you loving your V2.
I have upped the resistance number that the DNA gave me from .02 to .15 extra depending on mod and atomizer. This was a slight addition to the resistance number and made things better for me.
Start with .01 steps. I also turned boost and punch to lower levels than the profiles had.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
For some unknown reason my DNA mod was underestimating the best coil resistance setting when left to it's own devices. With my Z it was estimating about .38. I bumped mine up to about .402 and at that setting it works great.
If you are using a Splinter rather than a Splinter Z this would be too high for you, but you might try a setting about .03 (or so) higher than your device self recommends. Play with it.
Worth a shot, as most folks DNA mods work great with Splinters.
If you are using a Splinter rather than a Splinter Z this would be too high for you, but you might try a setting about .03 (or so) higher than your device self recommends. Play with it.
Worth a shot, as most folks DNA mods work great with Splinters.
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