Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

Status
Not open for further replies.

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
I use it only in wattage mode because I do not want operate in a mode which is not approved by the constructor.

You're making a mistake here: it's unsupported in the sense, you won't receive any user support from the manufacturer about TC because it's just too time consuming to explain etc. But that's what this thread is for right?

On top of that, it would prevent any combustion event from happening. It's like a safety belt. You set it once and then you forget. You can almost extract everything by staying at a constant temperature on screen, due to the heat soaking effect over the duration of the session.

No really, say it's complicated or that you are lazy, or any other excuse to avoid having to setup your box in TC mode, but don't say it's not approved! :cool:
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
^^^
@RastaBuddhaTao only supports using wattage mode with the Splinter.

Yeh, I agree that the TCR mode if done properly could really improve roasting. i believe the heater design can be made better to leverage TCR to make for better roasting. It also provides poor mans "breath sensing" as it automatically ramps up as air is brought in cooling the heater... and then ramps down when you stop drawing. This currently is what I am thinking for the SEED... but have have it optimized out of the box with no need for the customer to make any adjustments.
 

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
I have the Splinter V2 about two weeks now. First impressions are more than positive.

I use it only in wattage mode because I do not want operate in a mode which is not approved by the constructor. The stems are not moving whilst installed and not falling if upside down.

I bought a new box mod in order to have a 2battery one for more sessions. I think that my single battery one is doing the job pretty well. Maybe better than the new one.

Only concern is that the last days I combust. I do not change the wattage. I keep steady on 30 watts. Sometimes I step up to 35-38 for the finishing. I draw slowly and my draws last up to 20-22 seconds. But the combust happens during the draw where I taste the difference immediately.

It used to hit like a tank. Either I am used to my herbs or I do something wrong? Final thoughts are positive. On demand hitting is the best option such as Dynavap. Without the lighter. Same hard hitting both of them.

I just do not see the same vapor production as in the beginning. I have the same herbs and same grinding. Coarse grinde to fine. Mostly coarse. Fine grinding is nice but it is easier to combust as I noticed.

Any ideas or advice would be more than welcome. :)

Are your screens clean? If the screen is fouled up the hot air has to go through a narrow channel and this directed heat can cause a tunneling effect which could make combustion easier.

In my experience, if resistance is not dialed in properly you can easily combust.

TC only prevents combustion when the resistance and materials are correct for your atomizer.
 

Konstantinos

Vape Socialist
You're making a mistake here: it's unsupported in the sense, you won't receive any user support from the manufacturer about TC because it's just too time consuming to explain etc. But that's what this thread is for right?

Since it is not supported from the manufacturer doesn't mean that it is not approved as option? If there is the option of avoiding combustion then why the manufacturer did not suggest TC? We are in V2 which means that it is already tested enough from beta users too and still no info from the manufacturer? Shouldn't we consider of this?

No really, say it's complicated or that you are lazy, or any other excuse to avoid having to setup your box in TC mode, but don't say it's not approved! :cool:

I am not lazy at all actually and I did not complain about setting up the TC. I am using ecig many years and I make my own coils for very long time for my RDTAs. I also use TC the last 3 years. But I am not impressed.
I don't know how it will be on Splinter but I see that many people here have different settings. What is finally the correct TC? TC 120, 40 W, 390F? TC 180, 40 W, 370F? TC 220 (I read here somewhere), 35 W, 380F? How and what? What difference will make the change from 370F to 390F? Thank you in advance!

Are your screens clean? If the screen is fouled up the hot air has to go through a narrow channel and this directed heat can cause a tunneling effect which could make combustion easier.

In my experience, if resistance is not dialed in properly you can easily combust.

TC only prevents combustion when the resistance and materials are correct for your atomizer.

It combust when it is close to the leftovers of my herbs. The first draws are pure and great in taste and vapor production. But I will do a better cleaning to the screen. It has some black spots as I see now so I will soak it and try again soon. Thank you for your advice! :)
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Since it is not supported from the manufacturer doesn't mean that it is not approved as option? If there is the option of avoiding combustion then why the manufacturer did not suggest TC? We are in V2 which means that it is already tested enough from beta users too and still no info from the manufacturer? Shouldn't we consider of this?



I am not lazy at all actually and I did not complain about setting up the TC. I am using ecig many years and I make my own coils for very long time for my RDTAs. I also use TC the last 3 years. But I am not impressed.
I don't know how it will be on Splinter but I see that many people here have different settings. What is finally the correct TC? TC 120, 40 W, 390F? TC 180, 40 W, 370F? TC 220 (I read here somewhere), 35 W, 380F? How and what? What difference will make the change from 370F to 390F? Thank you in advance!



It combust when it is close to the leftovers of my herbs. The first draws are pure and great in taste and vapor production. But I will do a better cleaning to the screen. It has some black spots as I see now so I will soak it and try again soon. Thank you for your advice! :)

That is not what V2 means in this case btw, minor changes from V1, which was itself not even the first Splinter, so don't get hung up on that... TC just takes a lot of trial and error since the vape and the mods are not designed this way. Wattage is simpler and makes it the same for each mod/vape is all. Combustion is often possible with every pure convection vape, regardless of temp control, because accuracy is tricky with this vape technology, though the vapor is stellar (hence steeper learning curves for more casual users, or just variance in general)
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
All these mods are so different from one another, even within a chip family let alone between them, that it would be all but impossible for RBT to give good generally applicable directions/instructions for temperature control for Splinters/SplinterZs. It is much easier to just suggest wattage mode (which works well) rather than TC mode. As one can see in the quote that @Summer included above RBT gets that TC is a good and valuable way to use his devices for those willing to figure it out, but rather than take responsibility for this fluid instruction set he is being wise and leaving it to others.
Fortunately there are others like @HerbieVonVapster and @KeroZen who have a lot of mod knowledge who can apply that and help us out without having to worry about being responsible for any potential warranty issues on a product they are not selling. This is not a criticism, it is an observation. I appreciate the help...
 

Consolidated 1

Unapproved commercial account.
Since it is not supported from the manufacturer doesn't mean that it is not approved as option? If there is the option of avoiding combustion then why the manufacturer did not suggest TC? We are in V2 which means that it is already tested enough from beta users too and still no info from the manufacturer? Shouldn't we consider of this?



I am not lazy at all actually and I did not complain about setting up the TC. I am using ecig many years and I make my own coils for very long time for my RDTAs. I also use TC the last 3 years. But I am not impressed.
I don't know how it will be on Splinter but I see that many people here have different settings. What is finally the correct TC? TC 120, 40 W, 390F? TC 180, 40 W, 370F? TC 220 (I read here somewhere), 35 W, 380F? How and what? What difference will make the change from 370F to 390F? Thank you in advance!



It combust when it is close to the leftovers of my herbs. The first draws are pure and great in taste and vapor production. But I will do a better cleaning to the screen. It has some black spots as I see now so I will soak it and try again soon. Thank you for your advice! :)

Without being a vape specialist or even a vape socialist like you but a old man who trying to get full potential from my tools...
My Splinter (v1+) rocks. A friend of mine who owns a sticky brick hydro and a junior - and loved them - (after trying my V1+ ), he was impressed, by the way the splinter hits. He ordered one too.

PS I have a feeling that we are compatriots.... in SE Mediterranean...
 

Mr Turnip

Well-Known Member
I'm surly gonna buy one of these it's in my cart.. but how's the flavour I generally use an Evo for herb.

Cheers
 
Mr Turnip,

Hippie

Well-Known Member
I am not lazy at all actually and I did not complain about setting up the TC. I am using ecig many years and I make my own coils for very long time for my RDTAs. I also use TC the last 3 years. But I am not impressed.
I don't know how it will be on Splinter but I see that many people here have different settings. What is finally the correct TC? TC 120, 40 W, 390F? TC 180, 40 W, 370F? TC 220 (I read here somewhere), 35 W, 380F? How and what? What difference will make the change from 370F to 390F? Thank you in advance!

To answer the questions I understand

All of them are correct
It gets hotter going from 370 to 390 :science: :rofl:
(sorry I couldn't resist)

I like the TCR at 125 for all my Splinters at the moment with the power set to 40w max for the V1 (and my 19/19 waitlister) and 45w max for the Z, with the sweet PID enabled, vaping between 180 - 220 degrees C
If you think it's too hot or too cold for the temp shown onscreen you can increase or decrease the locked resistance in .001 increments to adjust (increase the resistance to increase the coil temp).
 

flammy

Well-Known Member
Hi all,
I got my first splinter about a month or so ago. At first there was a little struggle to get the mod set up properly and dial in settings. Once I was able to get my settings locked in, I moved on to dealing with the hot vapor and glass. I originally used the stock stem but quickly switched over to the junior xl8tr. That said, even with the xl8tr, the vapor could get warmer than I preferred but I also noticed that if I was in a session, the glass would get uncomfortably hot which was actually the biggest issue for me. I also have a few long xl8tr cooling stems that works really well to minimize glass warmth but the added length on an already long setup wasn't ideal for me.

I've been running my setup now for about 3 weeks and I feel comfortable sharing now as I have put it through the paces.

fu6wzd.jpg


This is just a dynavap fat mouthpiece that I slid into the junior xl8tr cooling stem. This works wonderfully. It helps mitigate heat further but not to the point where its completely gone. I need a little heat feedback to know when to let off the button in wattage mode. Its also easier to put your mouth around the mouthpiece vs glass stem due to the nipple design of the fat mp. Additionally, this also insulates the glass warmth from your lips. Furthermore, if my friends use the splinter, I simply replace the fat MP with another one for their exclusive use during that session. The MP stays firmly in place as well unless you want it off and if you want it shorter, you can trim some of it off. I use this stem setup on all of my RBT vapes and the tubo.

Some of you may already have the parts to give this a try. If so, please do and let me know your thoughts. It's truly changed my experience with the splinter and I sincerely hope some of you get some utility out of this as well.
 
Last edited:

Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
Hi all,
I got my first splinter about a month or so ago. At first there was a little struggle to get the mod set up properly and dial in settings. Once I was able to get my settings locked in, I moved on to dealing with the hot vapor and glass. I originally used the stock stem but quickly switched over to the junior xl8tr. That said, even with the xl8tr, the vapor could get warmer than I preferred but I also noticed that if I was in a session, the glass would get uncomfortably hot which was actually the biggest issue for me. I also have a few long xl8tr cooling stems that works really well due to minimize glass warmth but the added length an already long setup wasn't ideal for me.

I've been running my setup now for about 3 weeks and I feel comfortable sharing now as I have put it through the paces.

fu6wzd.jpg


This is just a dynavap fat mouthpiece that I slid into the junior xl8tr cooling stem. This works wonderfully. It helps mitigate heat further but not to the point where its completely gone. I need a little heat feedback to know when to let off the button in wattage mode. Its also easier to put your mouth around the mouthpiece vs glass stem due to the nipple design of the fat mp. Additionally, this also insulates the glass warmth from your lips. Furthermore, if my friends use the splinter, I simply replace the fat MP with another one for their exclusive use during that session. The MP stays firmly in place as well unless you want it off and if you want it shorter, you can trim some of it off. I use this stem setup on all of my RBT vapes and the tubo.

Some of you may already have the parts to give this a try. If so, please do and let me know your thoughts. It's truly changed my experience with the splinter and I sincerely hope some of you get some utility out of this as well.

I have a fat mouthpiece at home (I did cut the hole a bit bigger to facilitate airflow when using through water), I will try this tonight!
 

Konstantinos

Vape Socialist
That is not what V2 means in this case
I mean that if TC was option it would be suggested since Splinter is on the market two years and maybe more. So used and tested long enough.

My Splinter (v1+) rocks
In my mind Splinter is translated as bledder ;) I do not complain. Maybe I got used to my herbs.


PS I have a feeling that we are compatriots.... in SE Mediterranean...
Explain the feeling please..

That describes my location pretty well too.
Same person or? Do you know me? Should I concern? :sherlock:

It gets hotter going from 370 to 390 :science: :rofl:
(sorry I couldn't resist)
Last but not least.. Thank you for the advice. I am just wondering. Do you really feel the change from 370F to 390F? (187C to 198C)
I know that high wattage is giving you hotter vapor. Changing the temperature is not making big difference. You only adjust the peak of the temperature it will reach. Higher wattage will just make it faster. Try for example in 14 W and see how long it takes to reach 370F. And check in 40 W. It also does not give same continuous 40 W as long as you press the button. It is reduced to 20, 15, 6, 12, 8, and so on.

And my comment to tease you is that you tell me your neurons are so sensitive to realize even the change from 370F to 371F and 372 F like you are DJ Sasha and realize pitch difference from 0.0 to 0.01........ :p
 

Vape weed everyday

Well-Known Member
Used an Omni XL exclusively for past 2 years, prior to this I used every other mention worthy portable and the omni made me sell them all.

First bowl in my V1+ with XL8R MP, did a micro dose and it's wrecked me. First time you use any new vape it gets you so I will see but 1st impressions are good.

One hit at 33w and another at 40w finished the load.

Dynavap leaves black AVB so I never worried there's more left over, this is something I will have get over as the AVB as expected does come out a lighter shade.

If I combust it will put me off, i just want to have fo a few loads and be done no drama or working on techniques why i have no interest in TC mode. I vape to sedate at night not to get high and chill, after the dynavap I worry a convection device may not sedate me the same.

I will report over the weekend with how I am getting on.

I live in East London never met a fellow vaper, tried converting friends they seem impressed then go back to spliffs.
 

Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
Used an Omni XL exclusively for past 2 years, prior to this I used every other mention worthy portable and the omni made me sell them all.

First bowl in my V1+ with XL8R MP, did a micro dose and it's wrecked me. First time you use any new vape it gets you so I will see but 1st impressions are good.

One hit at 33w and another at 40w finished the load.

Dynavap leaves black AVB so I never worried there's more left over, this is something I will have get over as the AVB as expected does come out a lighter shade.

If I combust it will put me off, i just want to have fo a few loads and be done no drama or working on techniques why i have no interest in TC mode. I vape to sedate at night not to get high and chill, after the dynavap I worry a convection device may not sedate me the same.

I will report over the weekend with how I am getting on.

I live in East London never met a fellow vaper, tried converting friends they seem impressed then go back to spliffs.

I find the Splinters give a more gradual, even and mellow high than Dynavaps. My preferred method for helping with sleep is using a high CBD flower, maybe mixed with a little THC flower, in the Splinter. I cash the bowl in 4-6 hits depending on my watts and then I’m deep asleep 10 minutes or less from putting my head to the pillow.

Stick with the Splinter, it’s a winner of a vape.
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
If I combust it will put me off, i just want to have fo a few loads and be done no drama or working on techniques why i have no interest in TC mode. I vape to sedate at night not to get high and chill, after the dynavap I worry a convection device may not sedate me the same.

...so you have no interest in the mode designed to do exactly what you want? :hmm:

On the convection/conduction front I do find conduction more sedating, all things being equal, but if you have access to Indicas and/or you can get it a bit hotter without combusting you should be able to get more sedation than at lower temps with other flower, but you probably know that.
 
Vaporware,
  • Like
Reactions: Easywider

Hippie

Well-Known Member
In TC mode I like to temp step in 5 degree steps from 190 to 210 ish (I have the mod set to go up in 5s)
Each step is different. You can extract everything at each step so there's no vapour then turn it up a step and get vapour so I'm gonna say yes I can see and taste the difference.

We're using PID to control the temp by throttling the power using the sweet PID in sur_myevic. I think you're thinking of the older temp protect method of temp control, as used in the original firmware for the Cuboid mod (same chip).

14w isn't enough to maintain the temp when you start drawing. I don't cruise in wattage mode like using a G43 or a log but I know some do. Heat up time is 2 or 3 mins and you need to wait for it to beat up again between draws.
Using the device monitor in older versions of the Arctic Fox toolkit will let you see pretty graphs of whats happening live in real time. From watching the graphs I can see I need about 35w to maintain the temp for my max draw. That's why I have it set to 40w max

Like Sashaaaah it's all about the harmonic vaping here dude :cool:
 

Plutonic

Well-Known Member
What is finally the correct TC? TC 120, 40 W, 390F? TC 180, 40 W, 370F? TC 220 (I read here somewhere), 35 W, 380F?

One reason there's so much variation in recommended TCR values is that people also tweak their cold ohms settings, and both of these are factors in the mod's calculation of the coil temp in TC mode.

You can see this in the formula that relates resistance, temperature, and TCR. Rearranging the terms from the formula here, you get:

T2 = T1 + [(R2 - R1) / (TCR x R1)]

Where R1 and T1 are baseline resistance (in ohms) and temperature (in Celsius), R2 is the resistance at the higher temperature, and T2 is the temperature readout of the mod (again in Celsius). In other words, the mod uses this formula to "guess" at the current coil temperature.

Both TCR and R1 are in the denominator of the second right-hand term, so increasing the value of either one will decrease the calculated value of the current temperature, which will make the mod keep feeding current to the coil until it reaches your designated temperature. In other words, increasing either your TCR or your base resistance will make your coil hotter for any given temp readout. (Also note that increasing R1 not only increases the denominator of the right-hand term, it decreases the numerator, so it has a kind of double whammy effect on the calculated temp.)

Of course the accuracy of this formula depends on using accurate values: in other words, your TCR really is your temperature coefficient of resistance, and R1 really is your measured cold ohms. If you use another value for cold ohms, all bets are off about whether the TCR value that works well for you is anywhere close to your actual temperature coefficient of resistance.

Practically speaking, it doesn't really matter if you change the TCR value, or the cold ohms setting, or both, in order to tweak the relationship between actual and calculated temp. And of course you can also just reset your target temp higher or lower to accommodate any error in the calculated temp. But if people aren't using their measured cold ohms value, then comparing TCR values across different setups is apples to oranges.

No less an authority than @HerbieVonVapster counsels people here not to deviate from their measured cold ohms setting for this very reason! So ideally I guess we'd all just be tinkering with our TCR values, and maybe that would eventually narrow the range of suggested TCRs. On the other hand, there are so many other sources of error in calculating the temp -- the "cold" temperature setting, the assumption of a linear relationship between TCR and temp (which can be relaxed with TFR files), variations in the splinters themselves, and then just figuring out whether the coil's behavior suggests it's actually at a certain temp (since we have no way of independently measuring temp unless we get crazy with thermocouples) -- that there's probably no getting around each of us having to tweak our own setup, using others' settings as a starting point. But if people are going to share their TCR values, it might also be useful to know whether they tweaked their cold ohms value and by how much.
 
Last edited:

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
I'm not fond of tweaking the resistance reading personally. I don't think this is a good idea for many reasons. I prefer having to live with a displayed temperature that is different than what I set in my other vapes if that gives me a wider usable range. (also keep in mind it's the temperature of the "coil", not of the bowl so of course it's going to differ)

But the major reason to not alter the resistance reading is that it's incompatible with TFR curves. It "works" when you have a single TCR coefficient but not when you have a more elaborate curve.
 
Last edited:

Vape weed everyday

Well-Known Member
So first evening i am finding I get better clouds and more even vapour with the jnr XL8R than the larger one.

My technique is wattage, draw slow so you build it up then a fast vacuem draw gets big clouds and cuz u draw fast at the end it is cool but it is still a hot vape to me.

Flavour to me is not as strong as the 1st hit in the dynavap that hit is the one. It's quite light but cleaner to me i I don't get that roast flavour.

Omni clouds are denser but not as big as the splinter and there are more of them.

Omni 3 cycles and done so this is differant, I keep looking at the load and thinking there's more in there but I don't want to combust so it pains me to cache load I'm used to looking at it and it's black I know it's done.

Real test will be When I get different bud, it's difficult to judge a vape untill you tried it with a few different buds.
 

Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
IMO while the first hit on a DV may have more intensity of flavor, I feel like I’m able to get more of the full flavor profile over multiple hits from the Splinter.

Don’t get me wrong, I still love my Dynavap, but the Splinter can be a flavor machine.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
VapCap gets herb darker with its conduction properties, pure convection typically leaves lighter avb unless you are scorching it (which imo black avb even probably signals some overcooking even in conduction) I like to judge by taste more than anything since I flavor chase, but I do pay attention to color, just don't need it to be that dark (or even, often enough) personally. As you hone your technique you should be able to get very thorough extraction in the Splinter though
 

Monk Debate

The monks do be debatin’
VapCap gets herb darker with its conduction properties, pure convection typically leaves lighter avb unless you are scorching it (which imo black avb even probably signals some overcooking even in conduction) I like to judge by taste more than anything since I flavor chase, but I do pay attention to color, just don't need it to be that dark (or even, often enough) personally. As you hone your technique you should be able to get very thorough extraction in the Splinter though

I’m the same way, the taste tells me when I’m done, regardless of color.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom