Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

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usern@me

Well-Known Member
So then is room temperature determined instead by resistance change since there's not a sensor supply this data? I had assumed the room temperature info was being supplied by a sensor on the DNAc chip board. Guess now i'm confused on where it getting this data.
There is one board sensor measuring the innards of the entire enclosure. The board, the batteries within, the enclosure. How fast it all heats and cools. When you run the 'Thermals', the first thing asked is Room temp. It knows the board temp, and now the room temp, so now you can calculate the room temp whenever you want from the board temp.
The reason it takes so long is because people will plug and unplug USB cables, have batteries at different voltage levels, and charging rates. Batteries also heat up as they're being charged. There are different charging techniques employed as the battery gets near to full. All those are tested during Thermals, values written into escribe .............. then taking what it needs into account, you end up with a calculated/derived room temp.

During a session, in DM you'll see the board temp rise, room temp should not. As soon as you plug in a cable, you'll see the room temp jump, and it'll slowly decrease (based on the written values) back down to the actual room temp.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Thanks @usern@me for the explaining that in great detail. Glad for your help and knowledge explaining how this function works. Makes a lot more sense and learned something new to boot. This info shows highlights the importance of running the case thermal analyzer with DNA mods.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
(another reason to just stick with wattage as intended?) I grabbed another non-DNA mod myself, the P80. Should make my V2 more portable than on the RX250 at least
 

Biggkatt714

Well-Known Member
I just picked up the v2 and was wondering if the reuleaux rx gen3 three battery model was overkill for this vape. I was hoping to pick up the dual battery version but they are out of stock at most places I have looked.
 
Biggkatt714,

mucsusn

60 going on 20
All watts for me, all the time, especially with my recently acquired Squid Industries Double Barrel V2.1. The thing is a tank, just a joy to hold in your hands. I also have a very nice little single 18650 mod by DotMod, very stealthy.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I just picked up the v2 and was wondering if the reuleaux rx gen3 three battery model was overkill for this vape. I was hoping to pick up the dual battery version but they are out of stock at most places I have looked.

My Z's on an RXG3D, you can still find them around for sure. Others have three battery mods though and it just means longer life, but also bigger and heavier. My RX250 is ergonomic, but noticeably larger... I got it for the DNA temp control
 

triskelion

Member
After trying different TCR modes, I find wattage mode perfect for me, wait for the vapor, and when it's there, pulse it
(press/depress button) that's it. My style? Hold the mod on my left hand, stem by my right hand
when I sense the vapor, I rotate the stem clockwise, no stirring. As Sensei Ryan said, Leave them TCR to the kids.:wave:
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I'm guessing you haven't used a DNA mod. I absolutely prefer power/wattage mode on my RX 2/3, but on the VT75D using temp mode is a real pleasure. I haven't combusted once yet with the VT. I have combusted and especially charred my load with the Wismec quite a few times. Admittedly I am pushing it because I like getting all the goodness, but I am pushing the DNA chip too, without it ever going too far.
Power mode is good. Temp mode on my DNA is outstanding.
 

triskelion

Member
I have, I am an e juice fun and tcr is material sensitive and works best with n200 and ti coils,
tcr was designed before for e juice to prevent dry hits in an atomizer which is the tank that emits e-liquid
Now by using tcr, are we preventing dry hits for vaping dry herb?
 
triskelion,

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
I have a bunch of short Xl8R German ones. Could just use one as a vape till it breaks lol

If you ever decide to part with (sell or trade) a short German glass xl8r (xl8r jr.) please pm me.

I just picked up the v2 and was wondering if the reuleaux rx gen3 three battery model was overkill for this vape. I was hoping to pick up the dual battery version but they are out of stock at most places I have looked.

As long as you don't need it "yesterday". https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Rus...lgo_pvid=a53c31f7-6dc9-44a6-bbdb-01cf69e419d5

The listing even says that some are in US warehouse. That should cut delivery time considerably. I did not look for the least expensive. I only searched to see if available.

If you decide to purchase, it would be worthwhile to spend a few minutes comparing prices.
 
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Easywider

Simple is the way
tcr was designed before for e juice to prevent dry hits in an atomizer which is the tank that emits e-liquid
Now by using tcr, are we preventing dry hits for vaping dry herb?

“Temperature control (TC) in vape mods is a technological solution for dry and burnt hits.”

We are using TRC to prevent burnt hits and it works wonderfully well :myday:

I mean I use my Z equally as much with watts boost mode and it works wonderfully well just the same but with TC properly set it’s just fool proof. You can set the temp and hand it to anyone and they will all get the same results.

For me the main benefit is I like the biggest quickest extracted hits I can get. This often means walking a fine line alongside combustion. I can pick up my vape without ever having to think or worry about having to clean the rancid stank of a combustion event out of my glass and atomizer.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
If you ever decide to part with (sell or trade) a short German glass xl8r (xl8r jr.) please pm me.



As long as you don't need it "yesterday". https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Rus...lgo_pvid=a53c31f7-6dc9-44a6-bbdb-01cf69e419d5

The listing even says that some are in US warehouse. That should cut delivery time considerably. I did not look for the least expensive. I only searched to see if available.

If you decide to purchase, it would be worthwhile to spend a few minutes comparing prices.
The rxg3d is my favorite non-dna mod and does well with myevic or Arctic Fox.

If someone had a rxg3d and a VT75D they'd be in good shape and have small, light mods that fit well with any Splinter.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I agree, Just a bit worried, me threading in the line of forfeiting my warranty by way of prolonged
heating, nways just my thoughts, happy cruisin:)
And I agree with you on the cruise mode and log mode thing. I don't do those with Splinter/Z partially because I worry about the effects on the heater of extended heating. And partially because I have other vapes that are made to do those or similar things and I don't need to do them with this device. But the DNA mods seem to be very different animals and they can effectively use temp control on demand without overheating or extended heating and that gives me great results.
YMMV but I'm a believer.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
I'm using the V1 in wattage mode on an rxg3d so nothing fancy and I wanted to pass along an observation. I notice I get great results from only filling the basket screen half way.

My guess is that the emptier screen let's me tamp less and improves the airflow, not that I ever tamp more than necessary to protect the Splinter screen. Whatever the reason I'm getting great clouds at just 30 (though I think there's a one second 45W preheat in the myevic settings).

Y'all fuck with half loads in the Splinter? I still get three or four rips. I'm always happy when I see the vapor swirling up through the XL8R.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I'm using the V1 in wattage mode on an rxg3d so nothing fancy and I wanted to pass along an observation. I notice I get great results from only filling the basket screen half way.

My guess is that the emptier screen let's me tamp less and improves the airflow, not that I ever tamp more than necessary to protect the Splinter screen. Whatever the reason I'm getting great clouds at just 30 (though I think there's a one second 45W preheat in the myevic settings).

Y'all fuck with half loads in the Splinter? I still get three or four rips. I'm always happy when I see the vapor swirling up through the XL8R.

All the time, moreso in my Z though and even moreso through water as well. Just need enough to cover the screen and good to go with any amount!
 

RastaBuddhaTao

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Yeh, I agree that the TCR mode if done properly could really improve roasting. i believe the heater design can be made better to leverage TCR to make for better roasting. It also provides poor mans "breath sensing" as it automatically ramps up as air is brought in cooling the heater... and then ramps down when you stop drawing. This currently is what I am thinking for the SEED... but have have it optimized out of the box with no need for the customer to make any adjustments.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Yeh, I agree that the TCR mode if done properly could really improve roasting. i believe the heater design can be made better to leverage TCR to make for better roasting. It also provides poor mans "breath sensing" as it automatically ramps up as air is brought in cooling the heater... and then ramps down when you stop drawing. This currently is what I am thinking for the SEED... but have have it optimized out of the box with no need for the customer to make any adjustments.

One vaporizer I really enjoyed was the elevape smart and sound like describing something similar in the seed ideal?
I really miss the elvape if wasn't for the battery no longer available it still be in my rotation. It was the perfect sized 3 temperature coil designed on demand vaporizer. Didn't have a off or on setting it sensed when in use so was just draw and enjoy. The elevape was built like a tank and could take heavy abuse.
 
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HerbieVonVapster,
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RastaBuddhaTao

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
One vaporizer I really enjoyed was the elevape smart and sound like describing something similar in the seed ideal?
I really miss the elvape if wasn't for the battery no longer available it still be in my rotation. It was the perfect sized 3 temperature coil designed on demand vaporizer. Didn't have a off or on setting it sensed when in use so was just draw and enjoy. The elevape was built like a tank and could take heavy abuse.

Oh, yeh I had VAS over that thing and never got around to getting one as I am broke. Most of my experience came from Vgoodiez hosting Vapolooza once a year and showing me all his gear, vids from Vape Critic and tear-downs by Randy's tear downs (soon to do a Splinter Z). But hell yeh that same montra. Build like a brick shit house, has simple controls and fast heat up and delivers full, cool vapor.. check out the SEED thread for more on this....
 
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triskelion

Member
Oh, yeh I had VAS over that thing and never got around to getting one as I am broke. Most of my experience came from Vgoodiez hosting Vapolooza once a year and showing me all his gear, vids from Vape Critic and tear-downs by Randy's tear downs (soon to do a Splinter Z). But hell yeh that same montra. Build like a brick shit house, has simple controls and fast heat up and delivers full, cool vapor.

Here is my high level construction thoughts... Please let me know what you all think.

Most of the vaporizers that are of good quality either use metal as the frame and add ergonomic panels or they use a plastic skeleton and wrap it in something sexy. Now armed with the gift of tooling RBT can now design past standard parts. One big black high end vape has rounded edges to encourage that you don't stand it upright as it has a chance to be knocked over... but then you cant stand it up to fill the load chamber. Is the ideal construction one that lays down and can be filled like the FF? I appreciate this about the FF and the integrated cooling that they have is really slick. My thought is to have the same design but put the load chamber, button and LED on one side, the cooling on the other? My go to is an aluminum sub frame with the edges exposed. This will make for a rigid construction for surviving drops as it is most likey to hit and edge and be "point loaded" as if you drop it on the face the load is distributed over a larger surface area. Then on the load chamber side make wood panel insert (non removable) that is classy and on the other side have the vapor cooling ... probably in SS and possibly anodized aluminum. On top end have the mouthpiece that protrudes... but not too much. I think this is something that comes to mind between the PAX 1 and 2. The idea is a "no plastic" exterior. This might require some internal frame work be plastic... but the idea is a high end polished look and sexy from on the outside.

The inlet air would enter through aluminum frame or wood panel. Ideally it would be screened to prevent lint from entering but would most likely deploy a series of small holes. Some might me disappointed with the flow resistance as this will be slightly less flow than the current RBT tech. The idea is to have a 15-20 second draw as minimizes the flow variation and the slower speed means more even roasting. Ideally it would have a variable orifice but given that aim of this is for it to be easy to use with a small learning curve, the range of variation would be minimal if any.

The heater will be an adaptation of one of the 2015 provisional patent designs (see RBT www) that should make better vapor quality as it is of a square profile and it will be housed in a ceramic housing. The load chamber will be of the same ceramic and more than likely have a "POD" which will have a top that is removed before insertion. Any mass between the load and the heater is sure to rob heat so ideally there isn't a lid. If not, it is important for the herb to stay in place and not get stuck in screens etc. that are hard to clean. Ideally there would be a large and a small pod but this might prove difficult if a spacer of some sort isn't used.

With these thoughts in mind I am back to sketching out the high level architecture of the design to see what major elements go were in the packaging as well as general size.

Please comment on any thing that need to be added or changed. aka if you think there is value in having a constant battery charge indicator rather than just a blinking light when the battery is low ... there are no wrong answers.

Thoughts are the button will be metal, like SS, Ni, or Brass and the mouthpiece would be metal or ceramic. USB would be on the end. ideally battery will be replaceable with a few screws and a plug but might end up fully integrated if the unit under average use seems like it will last 3 years.

...and this belongs in the SEED thread so sorry for cross pollinating lol.
Sensei, make it future proof, the likes of S&B old tech but still hard to beat, and put some gel-like
safety measure inside, that pops up and spread some kind of ink, as a warranty voider for someone who
tried to get inside the device.
 
triskelion,
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