Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[HerbieVonVapster]

I have the Hcigar DNA75C set to 350-360 and around 35 watts. Ohms locked, and no punch or boost. Which is what ive mainly been using it at. On two occassions so far ive taken it off the charger the next day and I get no vapor (it seems like its heating though) Ive had to turn it up to 38-40 watts and 400+ degrees both times this happened and get good results but then Ill come back to use it and these settings are too hot and I have to go back to the original settings i was using.

Is this an issue with the mod or Could it be a result of ambient temperatures (Like it was too cold out when i had to turn the temps up)?

Try unlocking OHM DNA chips run better unlocked. Well charging it's increasing the boards temperature.

Here is so additional info on OHM locking how it works with the DNA board. The 5th post down covers I think what your experiencing.

*The 250c does a lot of math when calculating resistance and TCR. I assume in order to get replay to function.

When resistance is set on a profile, the board also saves ambient temp readings from a built on sensor. The board then calculates "expected" resistance changes based on changing ambient Temps and Coil material saved in the profile.

As far as I know, the older boards lacked the ambient (room) temp sensor. Meaning that they were making calculations based on live ohm changes instead of any form of baseline, which the resistance lock may have made up for. *

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/70461-cold-ohms-is-not-correcting-itselfupdating-on-my-dna-250c/

 

[Mynameismud]

Try unlocking OHM DNA chips run better unlocked. Well charging it's increasing the boards temperature.

Here is so additional info on OHM locking how it works with the DNA board. The 5th post down covers I think what your experiencing.

*The 250c does a lot of math when calculating resistance and TCR. I assume in order to get replay to function.

When resistance is set on a profile, the board also saves ambient temp readings from a built on sensor. The board then calculates "expected" resistance changes based on changing ambient Temps and Coil material saved in the profile.

As far as I know, the older boards lacked the ambient (room) temp sensor. Meaning that they were making calculations based on live ohm changes instead of any form of baseline, which the resistance lock may have made up for. *

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/70461-cold-ohms-is-not-correcting-itselfupdating-on-my-dna-250c/

Thank you I will try and see how it goes.

 

[cybrguy]

With my VT75D (75c chip) and my Z if I allow the device to set the resistance it sets it kind of low, about .38. I find I have trouble getting good vapor at that setting, and bump it up around .40 and lock it (.402 currently) to get vapor more like I want. If it is not locked over .40 I I don't get enough vapor.

Maybe I have other settings wrong? It has been working rather well locked.

I am mainly using your SplinterZ 19/22 profile.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I'm still using my Z on the G3D with surmyevic and my cold resistance was like .389 or something, locked it and never had an issue, but this of course without TC and not DNA... I am still using the Z profile on my RXdna250 with my V2 where cold resistance is locked at .25 (not sure third number since mod doesn't show it, probably is an 8 or 9 though too) and it has been running great. I can start at 325F for thin tasty vapor, stepping to 340 for a bit more while maintaining low temp extraction and effects for the morning. Then that same bowl was used at 380 later, and even later at 443 to finish it off with zero scorch and very even heating (though I did stir once early on for flavor at 340) using the JrCooler and an old internal RBT screen. I can also draw slow, fast, or however I want, it is pretty incredible to use I must say!

 

[cybrguy]

I'm still using my Z on the G3D with surmyevic and my cold resistance was like .389 or something, locked it and never had an issue, but this of course without TC and not DNA...

I also tend to lock my resistance on my RX 2/3 at .40+ for the Z when using wattage mode. That is pretty much where that mod tended to set it's own cold resistance. That has seemed to work best, but honestly I don't know what is really going on with the non DNA mod and I feel like I am just guessing. The DNA chip is much more consistent and controllable (it seems to me), at least at this point in my mod education...

 

[Shit Snacks]

I also tend to lock my resistance on my RX 2/3 at .40+ for the Z when using wattage mode. That is pretty much where that mod tended to set it's own cold resistance. That has seemed to work best, but honestly I don't know what is really going on with the non DNA mod and I feel like I am just guessing. The DNA chip is much more consistent and controllable (it seems to me), at least at this point in my mod education...

Yeah and I'm still only using wattage there anyway too, so I guess I probably didn't even need to lock it, but someday I wanted to figure out TC... never seem to feel like wanting to mess around with all the trial and error though it would probably be much nicer for me

 

[cybrguy]

never seem to feel like wanting to mess around with all the trial and error though it would probably be much nicer for me

This. That is frankly why I really wanted a DNA chip, so I didn't have to do all that...

 

[triskelion]

This. That is frankly why I really wanted a DNA chip, so I didn't have to do all that...

Sensible

Sensible in a way that in wattage mode, we are putting stress on the coil cause there is no precise setting in wattage mode, whereas in
tcr mode, once you input your settings thats it, firing precisely on point , no matter what brand of device as long as its running in dna 75c
at least, we will be fine.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Sensible in a way that in wattage mode, we are putting stress on the coil cause there is no precise setting in wattage mode, whereas in
tcr mode, once you input your settings thats it, firing precisely on point , no matter what brand of device as long as its running in dna 75c
at least, we will be fine.

Well its not a regular coil, but a heater that was designed originally this way without any sort of TCR, so I would not worry about that personally... It is really cool using my V2 with real temp control though, even just with regular DNA250. I'd like to try a DNAc someday but we'll see, I may actually get HC VT75nano and/or even a Wismec P80 sooner.

 

[triskelion]

Well its not a regular coil, but a heater that was designed originally this way without any sort of TCR, so I would not worry about that personally... It is really cool using my V2 with real temp control though, even just with regular DNA250. I'd like to try a DNAc someday but we'll see, I may actually get HC VT75nano and/or even a Wismec P80 sooner.

Yes excellent choice

 

[RBM]

Anyone having success with TCR and resistance locked ~0.24?

There seems to be a wide variation of TCR settings people are using online, but everyone seems to lock resistance at around 0.22-0.24 ohms. I get vapour production with TCR 120-180 (higher = more), temp around 190*C with 30-40w. However, when I lock resistance I get nout. When I run basic wattage /w a pre-heat I seem to run at around 0.26-0.3 ohms on my rx gen 3 dual.

Will unlocking the resistance/running it a bit higher do any damage to the device? Tbh, it works real well at 30w with a 4-5s 40w pre-heat so I'm tempted to just stick with it... I'm getting filthy draws through my hydra-tube, can't wait til my replacement bubbler arrives (I broke my previous china glass the day before this arrived, boo).

 

[bossman]

Anyone having success with TCR and resistance locked ~0.24?

There seems to be a wide variation of TCR settings people are using online, but everyone seems to lock resistance at around 0.22-0.24 ohms. I get vapour production with TCR 120-180 (higher = more), temp around 190*C with 30-40w. However, when I lock resistance I get nout. When I run basic wattage /w a pre-heat I seem to run at around 0.26-0.3 ohms on my rx gen 3 dual.

Will unlocking the resistance/running it a bit higher do any damage to the device? Tbh, it works real well at 30w with a 4-5s 40w pre-heat so I'm tempted to just stick with it... I'm getting filthy draws through my hydra-tube, can't wait til my replacement bubbler arrives (I broke my previous china glass the day before this arrived, boo).

Yep, .24 is where I kept my og Splinter and V1 in TC. I preferred my RX Gen3 Dual around TC 185. That was admittedly on the hot side and extracted aggressively with dense clouds but more need for stirring.

I still feel the way to go for TC is to get a dna or dna-c mod. Having tried both the even heating and precise temperature control makes the attempts by my TC mods seem clumsy approximations.

 

[triskelion]

I am thinking of just staying on the dna 75. The 75 wqtts is more than enough for splinters
lmo

 

[Easywider]

Anyone having success with TCR and resistance locked ~0.24?

There seems to be a wide variation of TCR settings people are using online, but everyone seems to lock resistance at around 0.22-0.24 ohms. I get vapour production with TCR 120-180 (higher = more), temp around 190*C with 30-40w. However, when I lock resistance I get nout. When I run basic wattage /w a pre-heat I seem to run at around 0.26-0.3 ohms on my rx gen 3 dual.

Will unlocking the resistance/running it a bit higher do any damage to the device? Tbh, it works real well at 30w with a 4-5s 40w pre-heat so I'm tempted to just stick with it... I'm getting filthy draws through my hydra-tube, can't wait til my replacement bubbler arrives (I broke my previous china glass the day before this arrived, boo).

I have my OG waitlist splinter locked @ 0.247 running tubo software TCR 170 with 55w , it runs on the hotter side 410 gives full extraction like a mighty would at the same temp.

 

[RBM]

I've just ran it through a few times only changing the resistance. I get good results for 190*C around TCR 160-180, still dialling it in. I pretty much have to leave the resistance unlocked or I get no vapour - it almost seems to hit 'protection' earlier. When I go back into settings after setting it to 0.000, I find it set to 0.28. This is on Arctic fox.

EDIT: Could it be because this is V2? There's some difference in the coil material or is it just the casing?

 

[Grifo]

tcr 120 locked at .28 45W 410F i havent changed these settings for a while now, unless im using a mouth piece then i turn it up to finish a bowl.

 

[Summer]

Now, following you guys' discussion, I need to ask a newbie firmware question: Is there a tcr setting that alone, or coupled with a certain wattage, with which the mod or vape can become damaged or the batteries unsafe?

Also, an even more regressive question: Seems, at least to me, that you guys use tcr & tc interchangeably - both meaning tcr, but sometimes posts say tc & the OPs really means tc, & since they are 2 different modes, what clues you in to know which tc is the intent.

I still feel the way to go for TC is to get a dna or dna-c mod. Having tried both the even heating and precise temperature control makes the attempts by my TC mods seem clumsy approximations.

Well, finally, the best testament I've ever read for getting, or at least, considering a dna mod.

But with tubo & myevic firmware you have the benefit of cruise/autofire mode. So you can use this vape in a low wattage log or G43 style. Did you ever use it like that?

 

[eideal852]

Anyone have anyissues with a TUBO'd mod "device too hot"? I've only cruised one night, 15w, maybe three stems, last one kept kicking out- "device too hot" and I'd have to restart..
WISMEC rx200s if it matters...


1. I'm assuming this is the mod itself, not it monitoring the Heating element/Splinter itself
2. I'm correct that cruise is left on, yeah, and through multiple stems? Or is it buttonless stems, just one at a time... turn off, then reingage. Is the downtime between debowling and reloading the issue?

3. something im sure, i forget...

 

[NizzyJones]

Yeah, device too hot is the board itself getting too hot. Not sure I really see the appeal of 'log mode' with this heater.

 

[cybrguy]

I feel similarly, and feel the same about cruise mode. I have devices that are designed to behave that way (like the HA), and pull them out if that is what I am in the mood for. Splinters (for me) are on demand devices (like most butane vapes) and that is how I use them. All my RBT devices in fact.

 

[eideal852]

I feel similarly, and feel the same about cruise mode. I have devices that are designed to behave that way (like the HA), and pull them out if that is what I am in the mood for. Splinters (for me) are on demand devices (like most butane vapes) and that is how I use them. All my RBT devices in fact.

I agree, but I still want it to work dammit!! LOL, but am I correct; in "log" mode (cruise, autofire, whatever)
it's engaged and then REMAINS on? for how long? I will say I liked the vapor quality w a 15w preheated splinter, so I guess if you were setting it down in between... but that doesnt play if it cant stay on for any real length of time...

 

[cybrguy]

To be honest I am a little uncomfortable risking the Splinter heater by leaving it engaged for longer periods of time. Unlike coils it isn't a user replaceable part and if it is damaged it would need to go in for repair. I understand that Ryan has used some of these methods himself, but as far as I know the RBT official line is that he only supports wattage mode. I imagine that repairs due to cruise mode might not be warranty-able, but I don't know, and I'm not sure how one might know unless the body was burned...

 

[bossman]

But with tubo & myevic firmware you have the benefit of cruise/autofire mode. So you can use this vape in a low wattage log or G43 style. Did you ever use it like that?

I've done it a few times, yeah. Like the boys above were just saying it makes me kind of nervous to feel the device gradually getting too hot to hold. I was more comfortable doing it with my og Splinter. Having sold that to a friend I've kept my V1 and Z on a Paranormal and VT75D, respectively. They both do everything I want and log mode ends up less compelling since it's not like I need to vape several bowls at once.

I use TC to mean not wattage mode or if I'm referring to a mod I mean not a dna.

 

[eideal852]

I've done it a few times, yeah. Like the boys above were just saying it makes me kind of nervous to feel the device gradually getting too hot to hold. I was more comfortable doing it with my og Splinter. Having sold that to a friend I've kept my V1 and Z on a Paranormal and VT75D, respectively. They both do everything I want and log mode ends up less compelling since it's not like I need to vape several bowls at once.

I use TC to mean not wattage mode or if I'm referring to a mod I mean not a dna.

exactly! i made a joke about Ryan cruising all the time, may be a bit more carefree if you have what i imagine to be a 50 gallon drum of splinters just off camera!

 

[triskelion]

Been breaking in the splinter z for a week now, using it with the simple instruction it came with,
then that is it, 25 watts to 45 watts, good results, and wants to be ripped not sipped, tried tcr, it is there, but something is lacking, it does not hum and purr, then it came to me, these mods that I have been testing with are made for eliquid tank, not for dry herb tank, as I see it, for the firmware to regulate the tank, there must be dramatic change in resistance or enough resistance change, in ecig tcr is amazing, because there is enough resistance change on the way we build our coils, what it does in regulating is that you won't burn your cotton, you won't have dry hits cause there regulation going on, tested the splinter z on rebel dna 75 c, rebel dna 75, double barrel by squid, and aspire evo nx75, these 75 watt ecig mod are more than enough, all of these ecig mods have profiles in them, except for the double barrel, the double came out the best mod to pair with the z among the four ive tried, simple rotary dial, just dial my wattage and am ready to go, cheapest among 75s, My experience only and happy with it.