Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

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Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
I'd like to make this change on my Paranormal in place of the amps or voltage on the main screen but I haven't managed to do it following your instructions. I also evidently still have a ten second puff timer despite using the Herbie ecigprofiles for the Splinter and Z.


I hold the button down but then I literally only started using replay yesterday so I know almost nothing about it.
i saw a video on youtube and it seemed like they hit replay and then they could just hit it endlessly without holding down the power button until they turned replay off but i could be mistaken. They also werent using a splinter not sure if that makes a difference.

Mine is not working like that however...

Im not a fan of how fast these screens are getting gunked up. I am noticing that that hot spot i was getting using temp mode is in the only small spot of the screen that hadnt become gunked up.

I was thinking of making a glass stem similar to the arizers stems where inside the joint there would be a glass wall with some holes in it but then youd have to pack the whole joint which holds almost a half gram :mad:. I could cut the joint shorter than 19 mm but than it would be farther from the heater. Any suggestions?

EDIT: Screen wasnt the issue for the hot spot. put a fresh one in and am still getting a dark spot in the center of the bowl at 340F and 33W ohm locked in at 0.230 at 79.9F
 
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
@bossman those editing instructions from @Hippie sounds like editing instructions from sur_myevic:)

Ah, sorry for quoting the wrong settings post in that case.

I'll try upping it in escribe in case that works where the device settings did not...

Yep, easily changed the max puff time to 20 seconds in the safety tab of escribe but it shows up red in the device settings so we'll have to see if it's really working.

Can I delete or disable some of these profiles? I'd rather only have wattage and the Splinter profiles on here. Don't see an "enable" checkbox or anything like I remember from Arctic Fox.
 
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bossman,

Hippie

Well-Known Member
Yes they're sur_myevic or tubomyevic instructions

I think some DNA themes will allow you to have the mod temp onscreen too
 
Hippie,
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eideal852

Well-Known Member
So I’ve read of some rattles. I’ve a v2 that clacks like a spray can. Is that all good?
 
eideal852,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
2iagd4m.jpg

Aaaand mine is back, by which I mean replacement V2 for my broken one, like I said amazing and quick service from vgoodiez. My old one was gorgeous and my new one is gorgeous go figure haha they are all gorgeous. Just look at the photos below how the lighting makes the color change with the rich grain of this blackwood, mostly dark yet also not:

vdpovk.jpg


ru8ugi.jpg


Back in business with the same settings I was using before, although now being sure to use the proper stems. The best way to tell is to match up the joints next to each other so I can see which are safe to use with which screens. I have a veritable ton of stems so the variety in my collection is probably not super typical for the average SplinterV2 owner... For now I am using the standard Jr cooler, but with an old internal RBT screen, since my custom Jr is even a little shorter and fits the rim screen much better. Like I said there is a lot of variance in glass so best to just be careful and check everything closely imo
 

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
2iagd4m.jpg

Aaaand mine is back, by which I mean replacement V2 for my broken one, like I said amazing and quick service from vgoodiez. My old one was gorgeous and my new one is gorgeous go figure haha they are all gorgeous. Just look at the photos below how the lighting makes the color change with the rich grain of this blackwood, mostly dark yet also not:

vdpovk.jpg


ru8ugi.jpg


Back in business with the same settings I was using before, although now being sure to use the proper stems. The best way to tell is to match up the joints next to each other so I can see which are safe to use with which screens. I have a veritable ton of stems so the variety in my collection is probably not super typical for the average SplinterV2 owner... For now I am using the standard Jr cooler, but with an old internal RBT screen, since my custom Jr is even a little shorter and fits the rim screen much better. Like I said there is a lot of variance in glass so best to just be careful and check everything closely imo

I thought my VAS was under control. Drat, @Shit Snacks you're killing me here....

FYI, for fellow vape enthusiasts buying RBT products outside the USA need to understand that buying from Europe will not save you any postage.

2-3 weeks ago I bought some "cooling" type stems from @VapeFiend.com. The shipping was very fast, but since they use Fed-Ex I had to pay the equivalent of 30 pounds for the fed -x customs clearing. Adding the customs clearing it cost me 60 pounds for shipping less than 1/2 pound.

A different solution (retailer?) needs to be found for people outside the UK.
 
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BlazeDis

Well-Known Member
Got my V2 very nice but thought there would be better performance then my OG after reading up but I think they’re very similar tbh Will have to move one on ....
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
2iagd4m.jpg

Aaaand mine is back, by which I mean replacement V2 for my broken one, like I said amazing and quick service from vgoodiez. My old one was gorgeous and my new one is gorgeous go figure haha they are all gorgeous. Just look at the photos below how the lighting makes the color change with the rich grain of this blackwood, mostly dark yet also not:

vdpovk.jpg


ru8ugi.jpg


Back in business with the same settings I was using before, although now being sure to use the proper stems. The best way to tell is to match up the joints next to each other so I can see which are safe to use with which screens. I have a veritable ton of stems so the variety in my collection is probably not super typical for the average SplinterV2 owner... For now I am using the standard Jr cooler, but with an old internal RBT screen, since my custom Jr is even a little shorter and fits the rim screen much better. Like I said there is a lot of variance in glass so best to just be careful and check everything closely imo
Lovely pix, it's a beautiful device.
I notice that the table and mod change colors, too!
Nice that you got a replacement; this is a smart way for vgoodiez to handle it. The warranty card on the V1 says specifically to not use standard glass (going from recall, but there is a statement to this effect).
 

RBM

Member
Anyone know if the blackwood for sale on vapefiend.co.uk is the v2? I read somewhere in the thread that the V2 should come with a darker mouthpiece but it's not clear. It's already pretty pricey, (~130GBP with WPA) I'd be pretty pissed if its a v1 and would have gone with a Z (atm I can't justify the extra £30, takes it just outta budget).

Super tempted to order one to use with my bubbler instead of vapcap paired with a rx gen3 dual... Could be here by the end of the week hmm...
 
RBM,

Megaton

Well-Known Member
Got my V2 very nice but thought there would be better performance then my OG after reading up but I think they’re very similar tbh Will have to move one on ....

As an early ish adopter with a rounded edge American made splinter (which rattles) this is reassuring at least.

Edit: looking back, this post seems overly negative- I am enjoying my splinter in wattage mode on my custom DNA box, at 45w, and getting decent results.
 

wilky

Well-Known Member
Anyone know if the blackwood for sale on vapefiend.co.uk is the v2? I read somewhere in the thread that the V2 should come with a darker mouthpiece but it's not clear. It's already pretty pricey, (~130GBP with WPA) I'd be pretty pissed if its a v1 and would have gone with a Z (atm I can't justify the extra £30, takes it just outta budget).

Super tempted to order one to use with my bubbler instead of vapcap paired with a rx gen3 dual... Could be here by the end of the week hmm...
yeah v2 i got one from them.
 
wilky,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Only V2 is blackwood right now. Yeah my photos can't even do it justice really, there's like reddish hues in there at some angles too! Did I mention fit and finish?!
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I'm a little surprised there is enough difference between the Splinter V1 and the V2 for both to continue to be made/sold. I thought the only differences were in the materials of the heat sync and ceramic on the 510 (and the wood?). Are there other differences, and are both intended to continue to be available?
 
cybrguy,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I'm a little surprised there is enough difference between the Splinter V1 and the V2 for both to continue to be made/sold. I thought the only differences were in the materials of the heat sync and ceramic on the 510 (and the wood?). Are there other differences, and are both intended to continue to be available?

All RBT vapes have ceramic in the 510 deck instead of plastic. V2 uses ceramic plate in heater instead of mica, aside from difference in wood and glass. Who says they are making more new V1s? As far as I know that is still old stock being sold, with the V2 available it makes sense most people probably go for that so they move quicker... But V1 is still fine too
 

Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Okay so after a few more days of playing around, I seem to have gotten the hang of this vape. The vapor is so smooth I cant really feel like im getting anything sometimes but then im surprised at the cloud i blow out. Also have been making sure to rotate the stem between hits and seem to have eliminated the hot spot.

The only thing ive noticed is that twice now it has not worked for me at the same settings i was using previously.

I have the Hcigar DNA75C set to 350-360 and around 35 watts. Ohms locked, and no punch or boost. Which is what ive mainly been using it at. On two occassions so far ive taken it off the charger the next day and I get no vapor (it seems like its heating though) Ive had to turn it up to 38-40 watts and 400+ degrees both times this happened and get good results but then Ill come back to use it and these settings are too hot and I have to go back to the original settings i was using.

Is this an issue with the mod or Could it be a result of ambient temperatures (Like it was too cold out when i had to turn the temps up)?
 

RBM

Member
So, I'm annoyed.

Not at you guys, but with VapeFiend. I received my blackwood splinter today and on the back of the box it says V1. I paid £120 for this and it wasn't clear on their website.

Can anyone who has received a v2 confirm that on the back of the box it says V2 and not V1? I'm going to have to return this unda DSA otherwise. I'm sure there's not much difference, but I'm not paying well over the odds for old tech when they've JUST had a clear out sale and trying to sell V1s and V2s as the same stock. I would have got a Z if the option was V1 or Z.
 
RBM,

kuzko

Well-Known Member
So, I'm annoyed.

Not at you guys, but with VapeFiend. I received my blackwood splinter today and on the back of the box it says V1. I paid £120 for this and it wasn't clear on their website.

Can anyone who has received a v2 confirm that on the back of the box it says V2 and not V1? I'm going to have to return this unda DSA otherwise. I'm sure there's not much difference, but I'm not paying well over the odds for old tech when they've JUST had a clear out sale and trying to sell V1s and V2s as the same stock. I would have got a Z if the option was V1 or Z.
Mine said V1 was but the 1 was crossed out with permanent marker and a 2 was drawn in. I think they just didn’t bother making new boxes for the V2. It’s pretty easy to check which one you got though simply by opening it up and looking at it. If it’s Bubinga then it’s V1, if it’s Blackwood then it’s V2.
 

RBM

Member
Mine said V1 was but the 1 was crossed out with permanent marker and a 2 was drawn in. I think they just didn’t bother making new boxes for the V2. It’s pretty easy to check which one you got though simply by opening it up and looking at it. If it’s Bubinga then it’s V1, if it’s Blackwood then it’s V2.

Thanks for the speedy response! It's a blackwood.

I had a suspicion this may have been the case given how small RBT is and the expense to re-fire a bunch of packaging, almost for the sake of it. I've fired off an email to VapeFiend to enquire but thanks for the reassurance.

EDIT: Credit where credit is due, they've emailed me back within 10 minutes - even out of hours! Confirmed it's a V2 and it's just a packaging thing. Solid customer service.
 
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eideal852

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the speedy response! It's a blackwood.

I had a suspicion this may have been the case given how small RBT is and the expense to re-fire a bunch of packaging, almost for the sake of it. I've fired off an email to VapeFiend to enquire but thanks for the reassurance.

EDIT: Credit where credit is due, they've emailed me back within 10 minutes - even out of hours! Confirmed it's a V2 and it's just a packaging thing. Solid customer service.
Yeah. Woodcolor=all you need to know. Cheers!

Oh yeah, was it smoked glass? Someone said the site pics for vapefiend was clear glass.
 
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Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
So, I'm annoyed.

Not at you guys, but with VapeFiend. I received my blackwood splinter today and on the back of the box it says V1. I paid £120 for this and it wasn't clear on their website.

Can anyone who has received a v2 confirm that on the back of the box it says V2 and not V1? I'm going to have to return this unda DSA otherwise. I'm sure there's not much difference, but I'm not paying well over the odds for old tech when they've JUST had a clear out sale and trying to sell V1s and V2s as the same stock. I would have got a Z if the option was V1 or Z.
My box had a white sticker on it that had v2 written. And looking at it now i can see a v1 printed directly on the box underneath it.

the wood and the glass stems are the two ways to tell i believe. Blackwood and Black glass Stems and the female black ground glass joint inside the unit
 
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