Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[pakalolo]

Hey there, I just ordered a V2 splinter. I am lost on what kind of mod to get for it if anyone can help.

I currently have an IPV D3 with a Yihi chip I read that might have an issue with the splinter?

I really like the size of it and the 1 battery if anyone can recommend something with a similar size that would work great with the splinter v2 and is reasonably priced

I also have no clue about firmware and stuff im assuming u plug it into a computer and download software to it?

Thanks

Any mod box should work in Wattage (Power) mode, which is the only supported mode for the Splinter. Trying to get it to work with TCR is a can of worms you might not want to open. My opinion is that TCR is a lot of trouble for no benefit that I can see.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Thanks for the idea. However, I took the same stem between them, just to be sure.

Also tried with a PV gong for the Milaana which his much shorter than any stock stems I have (http://www.planetvape.ca/phdfs-rbt-mouthpieces.html).

@HerbieVonVapster do you know how to lower resistance on a DNA mod/profile?

There are few way to do this. On the DNA chips I normally do not to lock the ohm or set it that other than at cold ohm but that's a option of locking at a lower or higher value. Remember thou as the coils heat the resistance moves. Each wire material used has a specific curve while heating. DNA's have a "refinement" function that fine tunes the resistance reading as the device rests for a more accurate temperature . Locking the ohm's may be beneficial for finiky atty's but as a matter of choice should not be used in normal operation.

So instead I look at making the adjustments more to material files and other settings in profiles.

There is a 3rd option by changing mod itself resistance haven't really messed with that. It more something manufacture supplies.

Hey there, I just ordered a V2 splinter. I am lost on what kind of mod to get for it if anyone can help.

I currently have an IPV D3 with a Yihi chip I read that might have an issue with the splinter?

I really like the size of it and the 1 battery if anyone can recommend something with a similar size that would work great with the splinter v2 and is reasonably priced

I also have no clue about firmware and stuff im assuming u plug it into a computer and download software to it?

Here are a couple links to get you started

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/w...ing-for-on-demand-convection-510-vapes.25465/

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/

I love my DNA chips with the 510 devices. If not wanting a DNA chip at read least firmware thread. Most people run either Sur_myevic or the tubo firmware. If not DNA best to look into a mod that run these custom software.

Most of them also run Arctic fox firmware and thats a good platform to learn on. Once understand setting etc the toss on above for cruise if so desire.

 

[eideal852]

Any mod box should work in Wattage (Power) mode, which is the only supported mode for the Splinter. Trying to get it to work with TCR is a can of worms you might not want to open. My opinion is that TCR is a lot of trouble for no benefit that I can see.

I 'm (no longer) with you pakalolo. TCR is a whole lot of things I don't understand, and I may be screwing myself by just copying peoples settings w out being more knowledgeable, but I am loving TCR. Great, even extraction, less effort (after initial what-the-helling). It helped a whole LOT after I got the actual current FW version from Lamart.....(@bossman)

I even started using (certainly incorrectly) Cruise last night, also killer... I have questions on that too, but I'll bug later...

Thanks for the pictures @eideal852.

It does appear that the "smoked" glass is a bit thicker.

How do screens fit in the V1 glass vs V2 glass?

Is it possible to weigh the V1 vs V2 stems perhaps a weight difference would help us compare the stems??

Does anyone else have a V1 and a V2 and can compare them?

I still stand by it, whether illusion or not, that the smoked glass seems a biiit thicker, both looking at the lip, as well as the slight difference in refraction of the rainbow on the splinter box... and science; the black ones DO tend to be thicker...

I don't have a scale, though i need to order one, so whenever that is, I will. or maybe ill just sesh w the homey who has these things...

All my V1 stems and V2 stems seem fine swapped between the units. Both w rimmed screen and w out, though beyond that, it's weird: i just did a test fit of all my 19mm stems with all my RBT vapes- Those in the pic plus two more long emerald, and they do not all play well across all devices: Mi1, Mi2, V1, V2, With the Mi1 being the biggest pain in the ass...

 

[Mynameismud]

Any mod box should work in Wattage (Power) mode, which is the only supported mode for the Splinter. Trying to get it to work with TCR is a can of worms you might not want to open. My opinion is that TCR is a lot of trouble for no benefit that I can see.

Haha yeah can of worms is a great description thats exactly how i feel.

I guess ill see how it runs on my mod i have now. It has a Yihi chip though and I read something about a dry burn issue with those not sure what that means though

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Haha yeah can of worms is a great description thats exactly how i feel.

I guess ill see how it runs on my mod i have now. It has a Yihi chip though and I read something about a dry burn issue with those not sure what that means though

The wismec sinuous P80 is a cheap little 1 battery mod I enjoy. Has side firing button so can grab lower. Led side lights are great for using cruise feature in sur_evic.

 

[fatbiker]

Any mod box should work in Wattage (Power) mode, which is the only supported mode for the Splinter. Trying to get it to work with TCR is a can of worms you might not want to open. My opinion is that TCR is a lot of trouble for no benefit that I can see.

In Power mode, what wattage has worked best for you? Ive been debating if I should go down the TCR mode or just leave it in Power mode.

 

[eideal852]

The wismec sinuous P80 is a cheap little 1 battery mod I enjoy. Has side firing button so can grab lower. Led side lights are great for using cruise feature in sur_evic.

damn
shoulda got in that sale!

 

[VelocityREST]

Well, I sinned ... I had to purchase the mistvape for its pre launch price. It was a great deal to pass.

That's being said, it's kind of relief. I was torn between the v1 or Z, now I know for sure that I will get the Z.

I'm very close to complete my collection. I have the dynavap and the Z. After that I'll be good for a long time.

 

[Alex3oe]

don't underestimate VAS!

 

[bossman]

I 'm (no longer) with you pakalolo. TCR is a whole lot of things I don't understand, and I may be screwing myself by just copying peoples settings w out being more knowledgeable, but I am loving TCR. Great, even extraction, less effort (after initial what-the-helling)...

I've been a dna maven on both Splinter threads and I'll still be psyched to try the DNA250c and 75c mods that are in the mail. That said, the rx gen3 dual is hitting like a champ in TC with even the 2017 myevic abandonware.

We're performing a community service doing the requisite hand-holding while folks build up the courage to use a mod for the first time. Whatever gets folks started is fine with me because the Splinters work so well. Eventually I'll hope for folks to get TC setup or spring for a DNA mod. With the wattage performance already so good I don't mind if it takes someone a year to get to it.

@eideal852, try a 30w preheat for ten seconds and then wattage cruise at 16W. I saw Troy do this last night and tried it once with good enough results. I still prefer TC but I love that there are a variety a ways to enjoy the Splinter.

I'm not gonna dwell on it, but I'm noticing that the vape reviewers and store owners know less about how to configure Splinters than the regulars on this thread. Understandable and I'm not trying to throw shade; it's just something to keep in mind.

 

[eideal852]

In Power mode, what wattage has worked best for you? Ive been debating if I should go down the TCR mode or just leave it in Power mode.

I've been a dna maven on both Splinter threads and I'll still be psyched to try the DNA250c and 75c mods that are in the mail. That said, the rx gen3 dual is hitting like a champ in TC with even the 2017 myevic abandonware.

We're performing a community service doing the requisite hand-holding while folks build up the courage to use a mod for the first time. Whatever gets folks started is fine with me because the Splinters work so well. Eventually I'll hope for folks to get TC setup or spring for a DNA mod. With the wattage performance already so good I don't mind if it takes someone a year to get to it.

@eideal852, try a 30w preheat for ten seconds and then wattage cruise at 16W. I saw Troy do this last night and tried it once with good enough results. I still prefer TC but I love that there are a variety a ways to enjoy the Splinter.

I'm not gonna dwell on it, but I'm noticing that the vape reviewers and store owners know less about how to configure Splinters than the regulars on this thread. Understandable and I'm not trying to throw shade; it's just something to keep in mind.

If I sounded shit talky, I was intending to do the opposite. damn you internets!


edit, also, yes, most of my TCR exp is from exaclty that abandonware...

 

[frank grimes]

Also tried with a PV gong for the Milaana which his much shorter than any stock stems I have (http://www.planetvape.ca/phdfs-rbt-mouthpieces.html).

Has anyone tried to use s&b dosing capsules with the splinter?

The stem quoted above from planetvape supposedly is compatible with the dosing capsules according to their website.

Curious to know if the capsule fits the stock stem and if it works well.

 

[pakalolo]

I 'm (no longer) with you pakalolo. TCR is a whole lot of things I don't understand, and I may be screwing myself by just copying peoples settings w out being more knowledgeable, but I am loving TCR. Great, even extraction, less effort (after initial what-the-helling).

I doubt that you're screwing yourself too much because despite what many people think, all you need is to be in the ballpark. If TCR works for you, go for it, but it isn't necessary to get great results from the Splinter.

I'm not sure how much less effort there can be than Wattage mode. You turn it on, set the wattage, and press the button.

In Power mode, what wattage has worked best for you? Ive been debating if I should go down the TCR mode or just leave it in Power mode.

It all depends on what you want. I prefer lower temperature vapour so I tend to start at 25W and when that stops producing to my liking, I increment to 27W, progressing to 30W to finish. I have often started a lot lower (20W) and I've finished more than one load without ever increasing the power. If you want clouds, start at 30W, then step up as needed. I find that at 40W and above, you're playing with fire. ( See what I did there?)

 

[eideal852]

I doubt that you're screwing yourself too much because despite what many people think, all you need is to be in the ballpark. If TCR works for you, go for it, but it isn't necessary to get great results from the Splinter.

I only mean that I don't know enough re whether variations unit to unit could require different settings that would effect longevity/safety. I'm just following along. (its like I say about computer shit: I just hope the last step in whatever shit im in over my head on isnt: "haha, you just formatted your drive!")

I'm not sure how much less effort there can be than Wattage mode. You turn it on, set the wattage, and press the button.

Who knows, my understanding is limited, but I guess that when its trying to maintain TEMP, then it will reduce wattage to the heater as it warms, whereas wattage mode will continue to provide the full as set, potentially driving it higher than you want? like a regulated milaana style (steady wattage, but maybe more than needed as it warms up)

I find that at 40W and above, you're playing with fire. ( See what I did there?)

 

[MonkeyTime]

Has anyone tried to use s&b dosing capsules with the splinter?

The stem quoted above from planetvape supposedly is compatible with the dosing capsules according to their website.

Curious to know if the capsule fits the stock stem and if it works well.

Yes, I used my Tubo capsule stem, it was very uneven with major hotspots. But in full disclosure, I think it was early in my use and I may have been running a bit hot. I'll try again in a bit and report back.

All this talk of TCR has gotten to me. Does the Tubo software allow for TCR control? I had it on my mod when I was using it for my TX, went back to stock to play with the Splinter, go figure.

 

[pakalolo]

Who knows, my understanding is limited, but I guess that when its trying to maintain TEMP, then it will reduce wattage to the heater as it warms, whereas wattage mode will continue to provide the full as set, potentially driving it higher than you want? like a regulated milaana style (steady wattage, but maybe more than needed as it warms up)

It's not actually maintaining temperature, it's measuring resistance and modulating the power to keep the resistance at a particular value. The firmware uses this value to calculate a temperature to display but it has to be calibrated to a particular resistance in order to approximate the actual temperature. This is why it's important to set the resistance correctly. The tubo comes with this calibration already performed but with the Splinter, you're on your own. Few people own the equipment to do a proper bowl temperature measurement so if your mod box is displaying the correct temperature for your Splinter, it's probably a fluke. Fortunately, as I already said, you just need to be in the ballpark.

You're correct that in Wattage mode the mod box continues to deliver the power you set. For a given setting, it will reach a maximum heat. There's no reason to worry that it will keep getting hotter since it's already using all available power.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

I've been a dna maven on both Splinter threads and I'll still be psyched to try the DNA250c and 75c mods that are in the mail. That said, the rx gen3 dual is hitting like a champ in TC with even the 2017 myevic abandonware.

We're performing a community service doing the requisite hand-holding while folks build up the courage to use a mod for the first time. Whatever gets folks started is fine with me because the Splinters work so well. Eventually I'll hope for folks to get TC setup or spring for a DNA mod. With the wattage performance already so good I don't mind if it takes someone a year to get to it.

@eideal852, try a 30w preheat for ten seconds and then wattage cruise at 16W. I saw Troy do this last night and tried it once with good enough results. I still prefer TC but I love that there are a variety a ways to enjoy the Splinter.

I'm not gonna dwell on it, but I'm noticing that the vape reviewers and store owners know less about how to configure Splinters than the regulars on this thread. Understandable and I'm not trying to throw shade; it's just something to keep in mind.

These 510 connection devices have added a lot of new options since requires a mod to work. It wasn't as big deal in wattage mode but TC requires some work.

These mods where designed for use other than ours. There's no real set standard with how they work. The different models use different TC methods TCR values different software etc. So basically people had start from starch to get TC mode working with them.

Add to that some of these Mods can also be a bit daunting for a new user to set up and understand.
That's on of the reason I Love the community here. Most if not all the answer are here if you search thru the forums. If you can't find it on your own members will come to your aid.

I have pushed these devices. It's really hard to damage the mod or device with just wrong settings. Most bad settings lead to combustion before they will lead to damage. I do suggest starting out with wattage mode and avoiding TC OR cruise mode till more familiar with device and mod.

Who knows, my understanding is limited, but I guess that when its trying to maintain TEMP, then it will reduce wattage to the heater as it warms, whereas wattage mode will continue to provide the full as set, potentially driving it higher than you want? like a regulated milaana style (steady wattage, but maybe more than needed as it warms up)

Yep basically in a proper working TC setup it keep the coil at the set temperature/resistance. Wattage varies a lot depending on draw speed screen etc. with 510 devices.

With DNAc I am able to draw up to 55watts on a heavy inhale with the splinterZ in TC mode. Remember your only pulling the wattage needed to maintain the coil temperature. It might only hit 55watts on my hardest draw for a second but thats where I set maxs wattage. I want it to maintain the set temperature regardless of my draw speed.

 

[bossman]

Despite trying in osx and windows with both the wismec and nfe updaters I still can't get the Tubo firmware on my rxg3d. Glad the old myevic.bin finally agreed to get on there because it's been a pleasure to use. The wismec updater recognizes my mod but pops up saying "Please confirm the hardware version!!"

I'm not crying out for help, just observing that these bin files can be a bit uncooperative.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Despite trying in osx and windows with both the wismec and nfe updaters I still can't get the Tubo firmware on my rxg3d. Glad the old myevic.bin finally agreed to get on there because it's been a pleasure to use. The wismec updater recognizes my mod but pops up saying "Please confirm the hardware version!!"

I'm not crying out for help, just observing that these bin files can be a bit uncooperative.

Tubo is not compatible with the RXG3D... That is why I have sur myevic on mine... Have not tried to figure out TC for it though... I wish @funkyjunky could add the G3D to his compatibility list along with the P80 (and help us get some proper Splinter TC settings) but se la vi

 

[eideal852]

It's not actually maintaining temperature, it's measuring resistance and modulating the power to keep the resistance at a particular value. The firmware uses this value to calculate a temperature to display but it has to be calibrated to a particular resistance in order to approximate the actual temperature. This is why it's important to set the resistance correctly. The tubo comes with this calibration already performed but with the Splinter, you're on your own. Few people own the equipment to do a proper bowl temperature measurement so if your mod box is displaying the correct temperature for your Splinter, it's probably a fluke. Fortunately, as I already said, you just need to be in the ballpark.

You're correct that in Wattage mode the mod box continues to deliver the power you set. For a given setting, it will reach a maximum heat. There's no reason to worry that it will keep getting hotter since it's already using all available power.

and here *I* am with my own slam and jam tips for Jordan...

 

[Mynameismud]

Okay so after reading up a little more my understanding is To use TC mode you can get a box mod and update the firmware with myevic or articfox or something else etc

Or you can get a DNA box mod and TC should work fine without messing with it

Is that correct? and Is that true for both the DNA75 and DNA 250 if so or am i completely lost on this subject?

 

[KeroZen]

That's it. But some mods other than DNA also have acceptable TC implementations out of the box (SmoAnt, Vaporesso, Dicodes, Hohmtech etc) without requiring any custom firmware.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Or you can get a DNA box mod and TC should work fine without messing with it

Is that correct? and Is that true for both the DNA75 and DNA 250 if so or am i completely lost on this subject?

Out of the box DNA mods need some setting adjusted to get best experience out them. Here are some custom files for the DNA chips

https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/

 

[Shit Snacks]

Okay so after reading up a little more my understanding is To use TC mode you can get a box mod and update the firmware with myevic or articfox or something else etc

Or you can get a DNA box mod and TC should work fine without messing with it

Is that correct? and Is that true for both the DNA75 and DNA 250 if so or am i completely lost on this subject?

Yeah, DNA mods offer capability for @HerbieVonVapster FC profiles for easy TC, so first will need to connect to computer and load em up is all.

Tubo/SurMyEvic offer other features aside from possible TC, even with watts there is a lot more useful there than in many other mods (increasing shut off time, cruise/autofire, etc).

And of course power mode will work fine with most any mod for watts

 

[sickmanfraud]

Has anyone tried to use s&b dosing capsules with the splinter?

The stem quoted above from planetvape supposedly is compatible with the dosing capsules according to their website.

Curious to know if the capsule fits the stock stem and if it works well.

I have a "milaana" stem from PV. I also have a short gong. I got mine a few years ago. I just tried a S&B dosing capsule and it does NOT fit the stem of the GONG. As I said, mine are a bit old, but the dosing cap my work with newer models.

When reading the PV add it almost seems like they are saying to drop the dosing cap into the bowl and there is room for the clearance using their stem?