Everything that comes with the v1 works great in the v1, and fits my milaana as well. (19/19) fit and seat with RIMMED basket(metal ring, included) BRIMMED (screen material bent into brimmed edge, included w my Mi2) and whatevr other screen you stick or jam in.so which ones fit the new ones? "Metal ring"?
dang yeah i have a "US" splinter purchased on 11.27.18 so ill just get both to try out. Now hopefully the ones on amazon fit because idk where to get them now.Everything that comes with the v1 works great in the v1, and fits my milaana as well. (19/19) fit and seat with RIMMED basket(metal ring, included) BRIMMED (screen material bent into brimmed edge, included w my Mi2) and whatevr other screen you stick or jam in.
I was cautioned by Ryan not to try Mi stems w the splinterv1, though the shorty clear stem included with my Mi fits fine. I havent tried GREENIE stems from RBT with the splinter, but will.
The Long XL8R fits both the Mi2 and the SpV1.
the metal ringed 10 pack I got from amazon (crystal pipe or some such) work fine in the V1 stems. NOT with the green stem, in either device type (china splinter and Milaana2)- or i guess it "works" but doesnt seat fully, uness you want to damage the heater screen. if the wont friction lock in, i want no part: I almost sticky-lip the stem onto the floor enough as it is.dang yeah i have a "US" splinter purchased on 11.27.18 so ill just get both to try out. Now hopefully the ones on amazon fit because idk where to get them now.
thanks did you buy the no rim ones off of amazon if so which ones? i want to buy both just in case.the metal ringed 10 pack I got from amazon (crystal pipe or some such) work fine in the V1 stems. NOT with the green stem, in either device type (china splinter and Milaana2)- or i guess it "works" but doesnt seat fully, uness you want to damage the heater screen. if the wont friction lock in, i want no part: I almost sticky-lip the stem onto the floor enough as it is.
nah, cant find (havent looked all that hard) the rimless. the TWO i have came in the box with the Milaana2, while the metal rimmed ones came w the v1 splinters. I'll look for link i found for a screen PRESS that seems to make the rimless but brimmed screens. Standby.thanks did you buy the no rim ones off of amazon if so which ones? i want to buy both just in case.
Ya i have 2 of the Screen rimmed (no metal ring but has a rim still) but not the rimless ones. The Screen rimmed ones wont fit the new v1 adapters.nah, cant find (havent looked all that hard) the rimless. the TWO i have came in the box with the Milaana2, while the metal rimmed ones came w the v1 splinters. I'll look for link i found for a screen PRESS that seems to make the rimless but brimmed screens. Standby.
fuck me, I'm confused.
okay, this may be the sweet spot: https://delta3dstudios.com/basket-screen-press-bp465/ taht look like theyd do the trick, depending on og "flat" screen size, to do both totally (b)rimless baskets (shove it down) as well as the screen brimmed (not ringed) baskets. le sigh.Ya i have 2 of the Screen rimmed (no metal ring but has a rim still) but not the rimless ones. The Screen rimmed ones wont fit the new v1 adapters.
thanksokay, this may be the sweet spot: https://delta3dstudios.com/basket-screen-press-bp465/ taht look like theyd do the trick, depending on og "flat" screen size, to do both totally (b)rimless baskets (shove it down) as well as the screen brimmed (not ringed) baskets. le sigh.
No worries! If you buy it, send me some screens! lolthanks
HAHA im not buying it yet. I messaged ryan because im getting weird fitments on these adapters and i dont want to damage my splinter. 2 dont seem to sit all the way in, i can see a little of the frosted parts. Hopefully he responds.No worries! If you buy it, send me some screens! lol
As long as the stem isn't loose then it'll work fine even if you can see a bit of the ground glass. I have a few stems like this but they work no problem, to test if the fit is good just put the stem in (with no force, just set it in there) and then give it a twist and a wiggle, if there's any play that stem isn't going to seal properly and will give sub par performance.HAHA im not buying it yet. I messaged ryan because im getting weird fitments on these adapters and i dont want to damage my splinter. 2 dont seem to sit all the way in, i can see a little of the frosted parts. Hopefully he responds.
Slick setup. I'm stalking Ali Express for deal on a Paranormal and will pull the trigger when it hits $93 again.
So, it's the taper that's the difference? This is what I have suspected but not confirmed with a similar comparison, since my small glass collection is mostly inaccessible at the moment.Here’s 19/22 scientific glass joint next to RBT Xl8r Jr. The JR fits in the Splinter V1, the scientific glass does not. The 19/22 joint does work great in Splinter Z.
Also worth noting: the stems sit somewhat deeper inside the glass joints of the Splinter V1 than they do in the Splinter Z and Milaana 2.
So, it's the taper that's the difference? This is what I have suspected but not confirmed with a similar comparison, since my small glass collection is mostly inaccessible at the moment.
If I'm recalling correctly, the taper on a 'scientific' glass joint is always 10:1.
It seems to me that using a different taper could be dangerous, as the total surface contact would a lot less, which would concentrate the impact of any stress on the joint. Or a misfit could get jammed, which might also make for undue stress.
But avoiding such stresses by being really careful, well, I suppose...
Thanks for clarifying. I do understand the basics of the (ground) glass joint system, and now I wonder why rbt is diverging just enough (length) to call his glass the only glass that is right for the V1 (for instance).The taper isn't any different, just the length of the joint, RBT's 19/19 joints are just 19/22 joints that have had 3mm cut off. It should be noted that 19/26mm joints have the same taper, again the difference just comes down to the length. And easy way to test this is to grab a joint of each size and place them into the same female joint, you'll see that each joint makes full contact (unless there is a defect such as the joint being oval shaped). This standard is carried over from the scientific community as much of the glass blowing techniques, tools, and materials used in water pipes comes from scientific glass blowing.
That IS a good ?, why deviate at all?Thanks for clarifying. I do understand the basics of the (ground) glass joint system, and now I wonder why rbt is diverging just enough (length) to call his glass the only glass that is right for the V1 (for instance).
I read somewhere that scientific glass joint standards are actually derived in part from older 10:1 standards that have been used for corks and barrel 'bungs' for centuries.
Thanks for clarifying. I do understand the basics of the (ground) glass joint system, and now I wonder why rbt is diverging just enough (length) to call his glass the only glass that is right for the V1 (for instance).
I read somewhere that scientific glass joint standards are actually derived in part from older 10:1 standards that have been used for corks and barrel 'bungs' for centuries.
That IS a good ?, why deviate at all?
That’s why I typically use just a top hat on a 19mm stem and an internal screen on a 22mm, you adjust the internal screen to what depth works best for your needs.I believe it's been said before in this thread. Moving the material away from the heater and heater screen improved performance. It was either that or increase the length of the Splinter by 3mm. IIRC
The stems that came with my V1 sit the same way but the glass still locks so I'm getting a proper seal. Do your stems wiggle or spin easily?