Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[Grifo]

I've been playing with mine for more than a week and just can't get any sort of cloud at all (as seen in the videos posted here). I'm using all the recommended settings, downloaded the specific DNA250c Splinter settings, etc. Unfortunately nothing seems to work for me, no matter the wattage, temperature, or material selected. I wonder if there is an issue with my heater. Even at 50w with preheat I can't make any sort of visible vapor. After reading through tens of pages in this thread I see recommendations from 20w to 60w. Unfortunately the Splinter seems extremely variable on a unit-to-unit basis. I keep hoping that after a couple more tries I'll nail it and get what all the hype is about (I can see that since I last posted, another user was able to dial in their settings) but unfortunately at this point I am very disappointed with the performance and am feeling very disheartened.

dang that sucks man. Just keep trying on wattage mode, forget the other settings. Are your batteries in good shape? mine are not so i gotta pre heat for like 10 seconds and draw like im drinking a hot drink with a straw if that makes sense. I have the 4 hole too, at first i would plug 2 holes to get it working but once i slowed my draw down very slow i got visible vapor.

 

[softkore]

@Megaton Cheers, keeping my fingers crossed. I keep trying to vary every possible little thing, including how much I put in the bowl. I don't tamp it at all so as not to restrict airflow too much. I can sit there and roast 25% of my two batteries and the bowl isn't brown.

@antispleen I have the 2-hole version (Bubinga, practically brand new, ordered with the last sale).

@Grifo Appreciate the reply. I'm using a Lost Vape Paranormal DNA250c with brand new batteries. I've tried with both a pair of Sony VTC6 and a pair of LG HG2. I think I've tried every range of wattages from 20 - 50w and every range of temps from 360 - 410 F. I feel like I'm drawing as slow as I possibly can for about 20+ seconds. I can feel hot air, so the heater is definitely getting warm, but maybe just not as warm as it should be? I don't know, sometimes after drawing for long enough the glass mouth piece is too hot to keep drawing - yet I'm still not getting vapor. I feel like that doesn't make any sense...

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

@softkore sounds like your getting warm air are you using the fcshare file?

The DNAc file was made using a lost vape paranormal 250c so should be working. If using a 19 mm stem try using that profile for that instead on the splinter profile. The profile on fcshare where made using 22mm stem so will run cooler if using a 19 stem.

 

[softkore]

@HerbieVonVapster Yep I was using the Lost Vape Paranormal 250c FCSHARE file. With that specific FCSHARE file, I'll set the mod to Splinter material with 400 F temp and 45w, and I'm definitely getting warm air.

 

[kuzko]

@HerbieVonVapster Yep I was using the Lost Vape Paranormal 250c FCSHARE file. With that specific FCSHARE file, I'll set the mod to Splinter material with 400 F temp and 45w, and I'm definitely getting warm air.

You have ur resistance locked?

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

@ softkore if you’re using a 19/22 stem it’s going run cooler than my profiles since there based on the material being 3mm closer to heater with a more restricted screen than what RBT is sending with the new splinters. If using the stock stem and screen my best suggestion is to increase the temperature.


The temperature readout will not be correct using the newer stem size. The stem load distance and rate of airflow is increased using the new stems thus causing temperature run colder than what’s being displayed.

You can tweak the material files to try more closely match the temperature readout or can increase the temperature.

I tried it both ways and feel it’s better to increase temperature than overtweak the the material file. If it’s off too far from correct material values you risk it not being able to read material and won’t work in TC mode. You will get a off warning instead of functioning properly.

I think I set the high temperature cutoff to 465 degrees in the DNAc file. Try that at 50 watts if still no vapor then may need to increase Max’s temperature using escribe.


The temperature readout not being correct is a pain but feel it’s better to get widest range of usable temperature than the temperature readout being correct. Once you find the correct temperature you enjoy using whatever temperatures is displayed really isn’t really important since it’s just a number.

 

[an0maly]

Hey guys. Just got my Splinter a few weeks ago. Been using it with either a Lost Vape Therion DNA166 or Wismec RX Gen3 Dual with sur_myevic firmware. Works great for me at 30-35W in power mode. I most often use it on my RX Gen3 Dual with auto-fire for 20 seconds at 30w. I do kind of miss being able to use NToolbox to manage the settings, but figuring out how to configure everything on the mod itself made me a lot more confident about using mods in general. The DNA mod I do manage with eScribe, but for whatever reason I tend to use it on the RX Gen3 Dual more often.

I have not tried my Splinter in TC mode at all. What's the benefit?

 

[sickmanfraud]

Weird, the Espion was used with my tubox for a while and had no issue...luckily I had an RX300 gen3 around... the splinter works great at 37w for me, seems the higher wattage was only needed for a mod that needed compensation for a mechanical deficit.

Is your RX300 discharging the batteries evenly?

 

[cybrguy]

Mostly using splinter dry
EDIT sorry no pics..it’s just a long mouthpiece and a sideways short adapter which I’m using atm)

Ive been using water adapter with one of these..


https://www.dhgate.com/product/18-8mm-glass-female-male-mouthpiece-curved/410259564.html

The small hole helps me draw slowly

How long is the male joint on that mouthpiece? It looks like it might be 22mm...

 

[cloudsosmoke]

Yeah 22mm

 

[bossman]

In an effort to learn TCR on my eLeaf Invoke running Arctic Fox I'm starting to just fiddle with the settings since I don't understand what they do really.

I had a TCR preset set to 220°C that didn't seem to be ripping hard enough and I noticed one of the smaller display fields said 27W. So I edited that preset and changed it from 27 to 36W and TC 105 to 160. I also added a 2s preheat. It hits great now in the 210-215°C range and is putting out big clouds that are comfortably cool with the short RBT stem. Seems to be heating quite evenly with a slow draw and I'm happy to have a TCR option now in addition to wattage on the same mod.

Is the resistance difference from unit to unit such that we can't share Splinter presets for Arctic Fox? I couldn't get a sur_myevic installer to work on this mod and I've been pleased with the layout and operation of Arctic Fox.

 

[virtualpurple]

@softkore what is your cool resistance set at and do you have it locked?

I am using a Z and not the splinter but I know with my DNA250 it was awhile before things started making sense and I started getting good results.

The first thing I discovered was that I hadn’t been changing profiles correctly lol so I was on these boards complaining of spotty performance while I was tweaking and making changes and whatnot.

I am sure you’re smarter with this stuff than me I just wanted to share my struggles initially.

Now that I figured out how to swap profiles and started adjusting wattage and temperatures and resistances I feel way more comfortable making tweaks. If only my DNA 250 could have a cruise mode lol.

On my splinter profile I am at 55 watts at 340. I don’t have the ohms locked in escribe but on my mod it says 0.37

I switch between that and the Z profile, which runs 60w at 330 (this all seems weird to me now, I swear when I plugged in the settings I had that set for 380, I have been dipping into lower temperatures on the mods, when I plug I. Does my mod upload new settings to escribe to match my current temp?), and I have the resistance locked at .401. I probably could adjust that down some because i have been getting extraction at 440 that’s probably a bit darker than what would be accurate.

After preheating for about 4-5 seconds if you draw just on the glass from the splinter itself do you get noticeably warm air?

@sickmanfraud i know your question wasn’t directed at me but I can tell you that my RX300 does not drain evenly. I haves tracked down which bay slot is causing the drain yet but overnight unused one of my batteries dropped down to 18% while the others are at 87%. The rx300 was reporting 6%.

It also gives me the message that my device is too hot shortly into attempted use which is frustrating as I’m trying to dial in to workable settings for the Z that won’t cause the mod to overheat using the funkyjunky or evic firmware. I don’t know if I get the message because my settings are too far out of whack or if the uneven battery drain could somehow be contributing, that’s too deep in the pool for me to have figured out yet, lol. In any case, the battery issue is really irritating. One of the reasons I picked the rx300 was so I could not have to worry about babysitting the batteries to make sure I don’t run outta juice in a session!

 

[FMSQ]

Enjoying my 2-hole Splinter with the RBT glass 19/19 adapter. Wow.
Settings from @analytika . Thank you.
DNA75c + Replay Mode 27.5W
Under Replay->Settings->Atomizer: 27.5W, Replay 10, Boost On, Punch 10.

 

[analytika]

You can now pre-order the splinter V1, beginning production soon in China and expecting to ship in one to two months.

Just $59.95 , using the code "darkside".

 

[softkore]

I think my issue was just that the flower was too dry... Feel like a complete idiot, or rather, I am one. I'm going to edit my original post for posterity.

I truly appreciate the time everyone took to reply and try to assist me. Much love to each and every one of you!

Hmm unfortunately doesn't appear I can edit that post, but if anyone reads this, know that my opinion has completely changed and I am very happy with my purchase.

 

[sickmanfraud]

@virtualpurple and anyone else who has an RX300, are you having this issue and are you using shareware from @funkyjunky ?

We should see if this is a setting issue between the Shareware and the mod or a design mistake on the part of Wismec?

 

[vapviking]

You can now pre-order the splinter V1, beginning production soon in China and expecting to ship in one to two months.

Just $59.95 , using the code "darkside".

That's what I did, just a couple of days ago! Great bargain and it looks like a very cool device. (I used all caps for the coupon code, don't know if that matters...)

My first RBT product and so far I'm looking forward to joining the clan. Gotta be a smoother ride than in Grasshopper land!

I'm going to have to get familiar with this world of box mods; I do know I want replaceable 18650's and I do have a budget, but I admit I don't really want to have to do much 'coding', mainly want to vary use similar to how I would 'temp step' with another vape.
Gotta be something I can explain to my wife without being accused of explaining something to my wife, if that makes sense!

 

[virtualpurple]

@virtualpurple and anyone else who has an RX300, are you having this issue and are you using shareware from @funkyjunky ?

We should see if this is a setting issue between the Shareware and the mod or a design mistake on the part of Wismec?

I have the issue with FJ firmware, Arctic Fox, and with I believe the regular old evic firmware. I flashed back to the original firmware but it didn’t resolve the issue for me.

 

[analytika]

.Gotta be a smoother ride than in Grasshopper land!

if you want a clean break from the burned lips and soft palate grasshopper experience, I suggest you get an XL8R to pair with your splinter.

Yes you can temperature step. It's a bit harder to change wattage on most mods than the dial on a grasshopper. Dial wattage mod boxes exist, though they seem rare. Interesting, that's the way the Zion worked.

 

[PapaEmeritusCDXX]

So I am trying to like this..but it's not really giving me much of a reason to.

Running it solely in wattage mode. Low wattage <25 gives me no flavor. Anything >27w gives me hot spots and it's kinda uncomfortable to inhale super warm vapor. I've tried killing a bowl at low wattage, and it does not fit the bill for me. I think I may move on to greener pastures or something else.

Using an evic vtc dual with tubo fw.

 

[bossman]

'Im going to have to get familiar with this world of box mods; I do know I want replaceable 18650's and I do have a budget, but I admit I don't really want to have to do much 'coding', mainly want to vary use similar to how I would 'temp step' with another vape.
Gotta be something I can explain to my wife without being accused of explaining something to my wife, if that makes sense!

I just ordered a wismec from these guys for $31 shipped after coupon code and sign-up points:
https://vapesourcing.com/wismec-reuleaux-rx-gen3-dual-tc-box-mod-230w.html

Folks on the box mod thread seem to think it's a good value and it runs Arctic Fox, which I've enjoyed on my eLeaf Invoke with an og Splinter.

 

[PapaEmeritusCDXX]

Giving this another go..

what should I set my wattage at for flavor? I do like to flavor chase before cashing in a bowl. Only downside is anything >27w burns my chest worse than western wildfires.

 

[KeroZen]

@PapaEmeritusCDXX: what experience do you have with convection vapes mate? Owned any other model prior to the Splinter?

 

[pakalolo]

Giving this another go..

what should I set my wattage at for flavor? I do like to flavor chase before cashing in a bowl. Only downside is anything >27w burns my chest worse than western wildfires.

I've done a full load start to finish at 20W, just to prove that you can. This is excellent for flavour. Normally after a few hits I'll step up to 22 or 23 for a bit, then finish at 25. I often don't exceed 25W even at the end. If I'm not flavour chasing then I'll usually start at 25 then step to 27 and finish up at 30. For clouds, I start at 30 and finish at 35. I don't find it useful to exceed 35W.

 

[Ctipp22]

I tried my TCR on 135 and 145. seem pretty good at these points. hard to tell what is better?