The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer
- Thread starter Pipes
- Start date
b0
Cloudy...
I just have an all glass shit fucker with some spare parts that I don't use and wouldn't mind selling
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
I made a quick review of the Witcher SBS mod in that other thread >> http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/w...onvection-510-vapes.25465/page-2#post-1193467
Here you can see it fitted with all 3 versions of the Project (OG, Eraser and Pure SF):
Here you can see it fitted with all 3 versions of the Project (OG, Eraser and Pure SF):
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Cool thread - love the inception coils! Haven't read it all, but looked at all of the pics. 
Thinking about a flower vape after finally growing some top-shelf flower. Needs a few months to cure, so plenty of time.
Looking for a non-conductive screen/tube to wrap a large coil around. Something like this:
This tube is plastic, but you get the idea. Built DIY flower vapes in the past, and always annoyed by failure to vape evenly. Using something like this to hold the ground flower, with a heating coil wrapped around it, might solve this problem. Ideally, it could be attached to the RDA top cap or even drip tip for easy loading and then inserted into the coil. Any ideas where to find something like this?
Regarding inception coils (appears to be the most common heating element from the pics in this thread) you can probably wrap them much smaller, if desired.
This is Rip Tripper's method:
Appropriate diameter tubes can be easily cut from a telescoping rod (antenna, roach clip, pointer, etc.) Also - you don't have to stop with two "levels" - this bad boy has four and might make an excellent, low-profile heater for this application (with the standard, bottom-heated design).
Thinking about a flower vape after finally growing some top-shelf flower. Needs a few months to cure, so plenty of time.
Looking for a non-conductive screen/tube to wrap a large coil around. Something like this:
This tube is plastic, but you get the idea. Built DIY flower vapes in the past, and always annoyed by failure to vape evenly. Using something like this to hold the ground flower, with a heating coil wrapped around it, might solve this problem. Ideally, it could be attached to the RDA top cap or even drip tip for easy loading and then inserted into the coil. Any ideas where to find something like this?
Regarding inception coils (appears to be the most common heating element from the pics in this thread) you can probably wrap them much smaller, if desired.
This is Rip Tripper's method:
I'm interested in starting my own DIY and have started looking into mods available here at the local shop where I live in. They have the Evic VTC mini 60w, just want to confirm if 60w is okay? Because I know vapes like the Tubo Evic use the 75w mod. Thank you
Sorry but i'm still not familiar with the terms. What do you mean by power mode and TC mode? I'm guessing power mode is like unregulated Milaana mode and TC mode is set at chosen temp mode? Thanks for the response
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Power mode, or alternatively "Watts mode" is often abbreviated VV or VW, and it's when you just set a fixed power output (in Watts) to your attachment. This gives you a a temperature rise at a constant rate (more or less it's not completely linear) but no, it's not like the Milaana which would be the equivalent of a "mechanical mod" (mech) it's instead closer to the Zion, for lack of a better comparison.
TC stands for temperature control, and has a variable power output (again in Watts) up to a maximum ceiling value that you chose. So in practices it only uses the maximum number of Watts that you allow when heating up, but as soon as it reaches temperature it throttles down. And as soon as you draw it throttles up again (up to max if needed but never more) to cope with the temperature drop.
TC stands for temperature control, and has a variable power output (again in Watts) up to a maximum ceiling value that you chose. So in practices it only uses the maximum number of Watts that you allow when heating up, but as soon as it reaches temperature it throttles down. And as soon as you draw it throttles up again (up to max if needed but never more) to cope with the temperature drop.
Thanks for filling me in! I'll be reading through the pages in this thread to have an idea on how I should start on my own DIY.
DriedGoodness
New Member
********************* The "Project" Takes Flight **********************
******************* Please Fasten Your Seat Belts *********************
Hey follow FCers. I'd like to introduce the "Project". The result of an endeavor I had started back in 2012 in a DIY thread called the DIY Bulli Vaporizer. A success story which hopefully offered some good research information for all enthusiasts to benefit from.
The Project is a portable vape on demand herbal vaporizer which is close to 100% convection. Ecig technology has recently upgraded with TC (Temperature Controlled) for use with e-juice atomizers, and in doing so, paved the way for this device. The current mod boxes out there are getting very suitable for this procedure. Some better than others which I'll get into shortly.Adapting this technology into my Bulli project was a marriage made in heaven. Once a suitable coil or element was established, all flew into place.
I often thought about how to make it without having to buy a Bulli, which are very expensive to buy. My goal is to pass on this great vaping methodology so all FCers' can enjoy. You can bet that once the clone makers get wind or how easy this is, the market will be flooded. Just like those concentrate vaporizers which is just a coil sitting in a bowl.
So what's this about? I have figured out a way to make "The Project" very simply and economical and with materials easy maintainable when you know where to look. The intent here is to keep it open source so the Vape enthusiasts, who also have the DIY syndrome, can make a few and pass on the cheap goodness to others. It's the kind of mod that if you order the materials for 1 unit you may as well make 10-15 type thing. Hopefully a pyramid effect will be the outcome..
Prerequisites to get on-board are:
-Must own a TC MOD box
-Willing to discuss opinions and ideas on improvements
-Active FC member
Although most TC boxes will likely work, at this point I'd recommend the JoyTec]EVic VTC Mini or Cuboid.
The benefits of the VTC Include:
-Small Form Factor
-Temperature is top menu
-Display is large for this old fart
-GUI is very user friendly
-Ohms atomizer measurement is lockable
-Temperature changes at 10 degree per press. (Originally though was a downfall but better then clicking 10 times)
-Firmware is upgradeable (latest upgrade makes it a 75watt unit and introduced TCR setting abilities)
For a higher wattage, 2 battery mod, the Cuboid is a good pick. Almost the same as the VTC but a couple mils bigger in height and width. Heavier as well of course. Advantage would be longer battery life and not as hard on the batteries. Same display.
For the coil or element, I found that both Titanium and Stainless Steel work very good. Some mod settings need modifying to get the temperatures we need. The workable constant temperature needs to be 600 - 650 degree F. Most mods stop at 600 F so the work around is to use a Titanium coil in Nickel mode. Doing this adds 100-150 degrees onto the calculation the device puts out. When using this mod the numbers do not mean anything except up or down. I found a setting of 460 in F and Nickel mode gives a good place to start.
I have been using stainless steel element. SS316 and found it is also very stable and functions very well. To use the SS316 I found a manual TCR setting of 145 works very well and a starting temperature of 520 F. Once this project gets rolling, I suspect this to be measured and scrutinized to no end. Fun stuff for many.
Current parts list for the materials I used:
510 to Ego Adapter
304 Stainless Steel Piping
Stainless steel bolt M2.5*25mm (Phillips head, replaces above hex head)
304 Stainless Steel Nut M2.5
304 Stainless Steel M3*12*1mm Washer
A2 Stainless Steel M3*9*1mm Washer
304 Stainless Steel M2.5 Spring washers
#10 High Heat O Ring
#113 High Heat O Ring
Teflon Insulating Bushings
Titanium Heating Wire
SS Heating Wire
3/4" SS Screens 1/2" SS Screen
Dowelling. Local hobby store. (Canadian Tire for me)
This is the heart of unit. It inserts into a SS tube which, in turn, goes into a larger wooden outer sleeve. The sleeve goes past the end of the SS tube and makes a holder to slip the bowl into. The bowl is held in with high temperature O rings. In fact O rings are used throughout the unit to hold together.
I have a couple units completed and starting to teach them to fly and leave the nest so they can spread the goodness around to forum members. Adopters willing to give one a good home, shoot me a PM. I think I'm going to start the pricing off at $30 + shipping. Considering the labour, a deal I think.
Remember, my hope is others will carry on with this and we'll have multiple providers.
There is a link to a picture gallery in my signature. I add to it as new developments happen. Shows the process in making these pups.
Cheers all and keep on DIYing!!!
This vape has really good features, good job!
ander
Well-Known Member
I had an attack of ERASER nostalgia some days ago, and purchased some SS316L 22Ga wire. Today I took it and made a very, very simple coil that seems to be "hot-spot proof"... will see. Anyway, the glowing birth of a brand new coil is always a great emotion...
...and again.
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ander
Well-Known Member
The coil above (that works really well) is basically the same as the one for 510 VC heater. And maybe it is already the standard coil now? It looks very similar to the shitfucker one also... I've lost something lately... eh? Neurons apart.
Anyway, I think it could be very useful to remind it for the beginners since it's very easy to do starting from the basic buttonhole: flatten the loop, place a tiny cilinder (an empty bic pen body?) on the nut and wrap pretty tight the wire on it. Release and adjust.
Anyway, I think it could be very useful to remind it for the beginners since it's very easy to do starting from the basic buttonhole: flatten the loop, place a tiny cilinder (an empty bic pen body?) on the nut and wrap pretty tight the wire on it. Release and adjust.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Can't see your pic.
ander
Well-Known Member
Sorry. I know... got a problem with POSTIMAGE.ORG. They changed (temporarily..?) .ORG to .CC and all my pics disappeared. Who know if they will return..?
But you can see the links on the post 2 steps above, and so Pipe's images, and the design is the same.
Deleted Member 1643
Well-Known Member
Cool, thanks. The video posted above is a tutorial for making this type of coil for e-cigs. You can also dab directly onto the coil. There's a lot you can do with these - check out the one-hitter thread. It might even be possible to create one atomizer for either concentrate or flowers.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
There seems to be a drop in activity in this thread. Are you guys still using your Project? And if not, why not?
I'm still enjoying the Project Pure SF. It's my favorite portable based on a 14mm stem system (well technically the Nomad is also 14mm and I like it better, but it's not standard taper)
Yesterday I managed to shorten the female GonG (i.e. the Pure SF body) by about 4mm or about 0.16inch. As I mentioned previously there was some free space between the top of the stock coil and the GonG screen, and since the 14 stem male joint sits relatively higher (the female is probably ISO and I use US standard stems) there's still enough distance such that radiant heat poses no problem.
I used a dremel rotary tool and a diamond cutting wheel, but I didn't try cutting the glass. I ground it under a jet of water, wearing respiratory and eyes protection. Then I finished with a diamond file manually to even it out. Didn't need to flame polish it, result was nice already.
The vape is more efficient this way, as every millimeter counts with convection, and it's also more importantly shorter now. It's still tall but sitting inside the SmoAnt Knight v2 it's really okay but I think we could get something even shorter.
I'm really liking it a lot. But I still prefer larger stem systems, something between 14mm and 18mm being my sweet spot. I would like to try making a 18mm version of the Project at some point though, just to see.
The only thing I don't like with this setup is that in order to extract evenly and without charring, I need to take slow and long draws that last over 10 seconds. Meaning I have to release and re-engage the trigger at least once per hit on this mod. It also prevents me from using this vape while walking as I don't have enough breath for sustaining such long draws while doing anything physical at the same time.
Apart from that, it's a much under-rated vape. Price is incredible, taste is as good as it can get. Glass purity, a tiny bit of stainless steel and that's all. I don't understand why it's not getting more traction...
Modnote: Edited per member request
I'm still enjoying the Project Pure SF. It's my favorite portable based on a 14mm stem system (well technically the Nomad is also 14mm and I like it better, but it's not standard taper)
Yesterday I managed to shorten the female GonG (i.e. the Pure SF body) by about 4mm or about 0.16inch. As I mentioned previously there was some free space between the top of the stock coil and the GonG screen, and since the 14 stem male joint sits relatively higher (the female is probably ISO and I use US standard stems) there's still enough distance such that radiant heat poses no problem.
I used a dremel rotary tool and a diamond cutting wheel, but I didn't try cutting the glass. I ground it under a jet of water, wearing respiratory and eyes protection. Then I finished with a diamond file manually to even it out. Didn't need to flame polish it, result was nice already.
The vape is more efficient this way, as every millimeter counts with convection, and it's also more importantly shorter now. It's still tall but sitting inside the SmoAnt Knight v2 it's really okay but I think we could get something even shorter.
I'm really liking it a lot. But I still prefer larger stem systems, something between 14mm and 18mm being my sweet spot. I would like to try making a 18mm version of the Project at some point though, just to see.
The only thing I don't like with this setup is that in order to extract evenly and without charring, I need to take slow and long draws that last over 10 seconds. Meaning I have to release and re-engage the trigger at least once per hit on this mod. It also prevents me from using this vape while walking as I don't have enough breath for sustaining such long draws while doing anything physical at the same time.
Apart from that, it's a much under-rated vape. Price is incredible, taste is as good as it can get. Glass purity, a tiny bit of stainless steel and that's all. I don't understand why it's not getting more traction...
Modnote: Edited per member request
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Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
the project eraser is my main vape so far , right now i use mostly with the wooden default stem like water pipe tool with my water piece , my e-nano stem got broken so i don't do too much direct hits , i have a glass steam with is made from a glass straw i got that are 14mm too , but not sure why i don't feel like it work how the e-nano steam used to work , i think this is inferior ( glass straw stem ), want to get again teh e-enano steam ( Fixed glass but not extra money for that not essential thing . but still the project rocks
dynospec
Well-Known Member
Id like to try one of these, it seems like a interesting idea. I finally got a eVic VTC Dual so Ive been looking for things to use it with that are fairly inexpensive. Will have to read through more of the thread I think, but could someone give me a rough estimate of how much it would cost to buy all the parts?
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
@KeroZen The only thing that keeps me from trying this concept is the teflon ring.I have to figure a way around it and then i might give it a go
I might be wrong, @Pipes could confirm, but later versions are using another material I think, PEEK or Nylon?
Also keep in mind that *all* 510 attachments on the market have some kind of insulator around their center 510 pin, otherwise it would touch the threads and short the atty. So they are all subject to that potential melting issue.
Some even have more insulation below one of the terminal posts where you mount the coils (usually the center one)
But note that in practice, that insulator will soften and melt before it vaporizes and off-gasses. When it happens you'll often get an atomizer short message on the mod and the atty will be unusable... so in a way it's self-limiting.
Another reason to never ever use mechanical mods with our custom dry herb attachments, there is absolutely zero short protection. Might be fine when using e-liquid, as it should never melt, but definitely a possibility when using them with dry material...something they have not been designed for in the first place.