The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

E0x

Well-Known Member
Thanks.Yes that's the one.the Arizer mouthpiece has a glass screen arrangement with 4 little holes to filter vapor through.i modded it for appearance mostly but also Replacing the glass screen with SS ncreases airflow through the vape and helps to create extra turbulence which helps to agitate and prevent hot spot in the bowl.
it works well but You still need to stir for the first few hits.



I have one.its really small.Im not sure it would be solid enough to take 75 watts continuously Also there is very little room for a coil,but I guess for the deck part it might work.its worth a try.we are building the wheel again here after all and having a go is what it's all about.:nod:


you have the project atty ? if the answer is yes can you try the inner SS tube and check if it fit at the deck and how it fit ( loose or tight ) , thanks
 
E0x,

u bwade wunner

Well-Known Member
I went out to my shed and I can't seem to find that rda you are looking at.its not in my old tin of ecig stuff
I found lots of other stuff inc. the nimbus rda but it's much wider than the project deck so You may be onto something.it could work out for You.

i will have a better look in daylight.
 
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I think that's a good analogy, yes! After using this and the Bulli for a few months I'm sold. My bulli is the most efficient, best functioning vaporizer I have, or at least equal to the nano. I can pull very big clouds with the UFO and never scorch, (unless I choose to by increasing temp). Taste is excellent and it's truly on demand. Battery life is very good, and every stem from Epic and the air/solo have worked. It takes some time to tinker with settings and getting it just right, but once you find it, they work fantastically!

I hope you are doing well my friend, our paths haven't crossed lately.
For me I like vaporizing makes me feel great!

I hope all is well for you...................

I have a new invention I'll PM you.

Don't want to be a Hi-jacker?

Truth is I'm a Hippy Surfer (real one)!
 
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I went out to my shed and I can't seem to find that rda you are looking at.its not in my old tin of ecig stuff
I found lots of other stuff inc. the nimbus rda but it's much wider than the project deck so You may be onto something.it could work out for You.

i will have a better look in daylight.

I have that (no name $2.50l RDA, its garbage.

I think its funny trying to "replace the project deck" when the project is the deck. These are steps backward.
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Got my project today alongside milaana and some new 18650's

Christmas bitches!!!

It reads at 0.50 and I had it on 40w and 490°f and combusted first try...lol

At least I know it works!
Working all too well..? LOL
What TC Mod box do you have and TCR setting? If an EVic unit, the information in this thread will get you going pretty much right away.
Seems instinct for first timers to overshoot the target until they get some TC mod box experience under their belt.
A learning curve which let's one know how easy it is to over do it with this pup.
Important to keep in mind, while experimenting, let it cool if changing TCR numbers and testing. Seems to confuse the box and results might not be the same once starting from cold. This is more important when making significant number changes. Once it's set though, you can pretty much forget about the TCR changing. It just works when you want it to.
Early Christmas indeed.
 

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
Working all too well..? LOL
What TC Mod box do you have and TCR setting? If an EVic unit, the information in this thread will get you going pretty much right away.
Seems instinct for first timers to overshoot the target until they get some TC mod box experience under their belt.
A learning curve which let's one know how easy it is to over do it with this pup.
Important to keep in mind, while experimenting, let it cool if changing TCR numbers and testing. Seems to confuse the box and results might not be the same once starting from cold. This is more important when making significant number changes. Once it's set though, you can pretty much forget about the TCR changing. It just works when you want it to.
Early Christmas indeed.
I have a generally unknown box around this thread...a segelei 75w tc.

I know I need to get an evic, but that's next week's adventure.

It only has one tcr setting to my knowledge so there is probably a whole different level of fine tuning specific to this device.

But I really like the build quality and once I get it down I'm sure it will serve it's purpose...my inexpensive. But effective work vape!
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Actually, I have that mod as well. The two side covers come off for battery replacement correct?
I honestly never even gave it a shot. Did not like the weight and feel of it. Heavy mother and think it only supports Ni coils.
Which would work with a Ti coil.
So I'd recommend not using with the SS coil. It will over heat every time as the Ni TCR is like 4X that of what we want.
Dangerous to even play some.
 

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
That's good to know! I have been using it with ss wire (and unless I drop the watts the oil tastes burnt) for a while since TI has been hard to find locally ...but maybe I should shelve the project until I get the proper gear?

That makes sense though, because it NEVER goes out of temp mode unless I tell it to, regardless of which type of metal i use for coils?
 
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PPN

Volute of Vapor
Yes I think it's imperative to get the proper gear!

I'm still waiting for my Sony high drains batteries to start a proper testing....the Samsung I already own are not high drain and not designed to drive the Evic mini...but they was working rather well except the "weak battery" alert, the short autonomy and the explosion risk if overheated (even if I think the Evic get some protection features to avoid this issue, I don't want to kill the battery).
 

E0x

Well-Known Member
the driver socket help a lot for install the new coils i recommend get one before any attempt of change the coil
 
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PPN

Volute of Vapor
Ok, i received my Sony batteries today!

I'm actually experimenting and after 4 flowers stems i decided to move to kief cause I got a hot spot everytime I was trying to get thicker clouds. kief bowls make me stoner than I thought and I'll try to be short...sorry.

With flowers (and with kief too) my main complain is the taste, I'm able to get decent/big clouds in 6-8s (similar to the clouds I get on my nano at 6, cloudy but not thick) but even with shorter draws and whispier clouds I'm not able to get this floral taste a full convection unit offers. There is a hot spot, I think it is the cause of the bad taste and even with stirring after each hit.

I think the wood finish is yet giving some taste (even with another glass bowl)...maybe i only need to use it more.

So i tried another bowl to get the load not so near...it was too far and there was no clouds before +10s hit.

I tried to place a glass screen to act as a tool to disperse the heat, the problem was it stolen heat!

Maybe i only need to lower the temperature, isn't it?

I'm pretty sure I will be able to drive it and hope I'll improve the taste.

ps: ...and I'm not able to get a fully extracted abv without to get the feeling I'm in combustion territory...

Any help would amazing, thanks

Edit!!!: After a lot of sessions i'm able to improve the taste, i used differents sort of bowls (provided stem, e-nano stems&GonG, Dabstorm glass mp and lotus WPA) and at the end I got the better extraction/taste/clouds using the Lotus WPA.
Provided stem place the load too close of the heater (and still taste as wood finish).
All glass bowls stole the heat.
Lotus wpa is far enough, offers differents load sizing and is not breakable!

Double edit: Suddenly my Evic stopped to heat and tell me "atomizer low" (ohms is 0.00) what happens?
 
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dilvish

in hypno-vision
at the end I got the better extraction/taste/clouds using the Lotus WPA.
this is my experience also. i'm not sure why, but all the best bowls i've done through the project were with the lotus wpa.
 
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Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Wow, where to start. A clue to something amiss is the time it's taking for vapor production. 8 seconds and 10 seconds are too long. What wattage were you using? Almost sounds like the power is low while your compensating with temperature. This would cause it to get very hot overall when contently trying to get that cloud. Generally my findings have been that the heat and vapor happen fast enough that the unit's bulk in the base doesn't get all that hot. In fact not that hot at all. That being said, I have never tested in a party environment where back to back to back might take a toll.
This leads to your second edit where doesn't sound good. First, remove from mod and make sure the reading comes back as no atomizer attached. Then screw back in to double check the atomizer just didn't need a new resistance read.
Once narrowed down to the Project, check it for obvious shorts including the screen being pushed through. We went through this a couple pages back. Check the insulators. If overheated for any length of time you may very well find the post insulator crushed from getting soft with the heat. From there changing it out is the only solution.
Check it out and report back.
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Killed a few half-stems throughout the day. Just take a few rips, set it down, come back for the rest later. Proving itself nicely in the middle of game sessions where I get pretty short breaks in between matches.

I'm finding that the metal and wooden stem is fine, I have a piece of thin silicone around it and it resides in the straight tube bong mostly at home (as an aside, I put nearly everything through water... :mental: ..... :science:) and it's working great dry as well. I dropped my TCR to 127 and 487F and it seems a little gentler maybe? Or maybe just because I'm using half-packed stems and the hotspot isn't as intense now but it was a recent change and more testing is needed.

I think most of the problems are finding the draw tempo and how the mods act and how the air is heated by the coil, and then the air is heating the herb slowly up to vaporizing temperature. It's visualized a lot easier through water which I think was the key in my case to really starting to figure it out.

I just did a stem like 10 minutes ago and I can't really feel my body anymore :whoa: sorry if it doesn't make sense!
 

PPN

Volute of Vapor
Wow, where to start. A clue to something amiss is the time it's taking for vapor production. 8 seconds and 10 seconds are too long. What wattage were you using? Almost sounds like the power is low while your compensating with temperature. This would cause it to get very hot overall when contently trying to get that cloud. Generally my findings have been that the heat and vapor happen fast enough that the unit's bulk in the base doesn't get all that hot. In fact not that hot at all. That being said, I have never tested in a party environment where back to back to back might take a toll.
This leads to your second edit where doesn't sound good. First, remove from mod and make sure the reading comes back as no atomizer attached. Then screw back in to double check the atomizer just didn't need a new resistance read.
Once narrowed down to the Project, check it for obvious shorts including the screen being pushed through. We went through this a couple pages back. Check the insulators. If overheated for any length of time you may very well find the post insulator crushed from getting soft with the heat. From there changing it out is the only solution.
Check it out and report back.
Ok, about my "atomiser low" issue, I only remove the atty and screw back and it was working again! (I didn't look at the insulators or short).

Taste improved but it is far of some high end convection vaporizers and clouds are not the bigger....although I expect better results soon!

I get vapor in 2-3s with your stem but it seems to take 4-5s with the Lotus wpa+orbiter to start to milk.
 

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
If you are going to be in party mode or doing multiple back to back sessions you honestly need at least a dual battery mod. Evic is a good device but there is only so much a single battery can handle lol. Heat is a real life thing lol

Does anyone here have cloud elb or extreme q screens? I think if you stuff this in an 18mm adapter and get it to fit in the wood that it should work well.

@Pipes think I could purchase one or two of your wood pieces you use for the project?

I'm playing with some glass pieces that I think will fit perfect
 

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
I think if you change the o ring from the wood to a smaller size you can fit 18mm joints. This way the project can be more in line with desktop vapes using glass joints and connectors.

if the wood holds the glass piece completely around i think it can hold the heat perfect enough to be very efficient.
 
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PPN

Volute of Vapor
I'm afraid the batteries I bought from Gearbest are not the better, they might be a 4 pack of Sony VTC4, the wrap doesn't mention that and after a bit of discharge(still 70% charged) the Evic mention "weak battery".

And even if the performances are better when fully charged (in comparison with the other battery I tested which was not high drain) they are very similar after 2-3 stems.

I like to use it with my Lotus wpa but clouds comes faster with the provided stem, although I get issues to get a fully vaped abv too...

Still in test...

Edit: My initial testing phase with the Projects didn't reach my expectations, I'm under the impression I can combust or get hot spot without the ability to vape efficiently the load, the Lotus wpa is better to avoid hot spot but it took to me a very long time and a lot of stirs to vape a tiny bowl...a bit awkward.
I can't compare it to my Nano for the moment cause it take more time to produces vapor and vapor decrease quickly since the hot spot is "consumed" and taste is worst (except maybe for the 2-3 first hits using the wpa).
I'm actually using only the Pipes settings, which modifications can I do to avoid this hot spot and to vape the load quickly and evenly?
What happens if I increase or decrease the TCR?
 
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PPN,

E0x

Well-Known Member
i buy this batteries with my vtc mini
http://amzn.com/B00LL43I5S

i only get weak battery when the battery is in more or less 25% of charge , using a watt of 55 , if i use more watt i get the weak battery sooner.
 
E0x,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Ok, about my "atomiser low" issue, I only remove the atty and screw back and it was working again! (I didn't look at the insulators or short).
Perfect. I have to stop assuming the worst scenario. I've had the odd bad reading as well and no idea why. Frickin computers.

@Pipes think I could purchase one or two of your wood pieces you use for the project?

I'm playing with some glass pieces that I think will fit perfect

Your asking about likely the most time consuming part of the process. At this point I'm somewhat behind on the Project waiting list and to be fair, I have to pass on making extra parts. Once and if I get all caught up, I may re-consider. Also, to make one or two pieces, is a good endeavor for the user to get into. Instead of doweling, you'd be surprised what you might find around the house to use for the basic starting point. Wooden skipping rope handle, wooden mop or broom pole, kids toy parts ect ect. Some of which will already have a hole which is already centered up for you. In fact the first unit I made, which was for my Bulli creation to act as a heat shield/retention, was made from an old ice fishing pole handle.

I'm afraid the batteries I bought from Gearbest are not the better, they might be a 4 pack of Sony VTC4, the wrap doesn't mention that and after a bit of discharge(still 70% charged) the Evic mention "weak battery".

I'm actually using only the Pipes settings, which modifications can I do to avoid this hot spot and to vape the load quickly and evenly?
What happens if I increase or decrease the TCR?

The printing on the VTC4 batteries is very faint but should be there. Try lowering the watts a little. 50-60 watts might clear the low battery, if not, maybe you did get some bad or fake batteries. Hope this not to be the case.

The setting of 145 is a working good for me and seems to work well for the new user. Lowering the TCR, coefficient reference for the device, will expand the expected ohms while the unit is heating up. Going too low and the mod will think it's getting to temp when it's still actually just warm. OTOH, raising the TCR will make the mod think it's no where near the temperature when in fact it's just a blazing. This is one of the dangers in playing with such a powerful device, Treat 145 as the max and if you can get away with lowering, it's perfectly safe. Raising the number is going into risky territory.


Never tried the Lotus WPA on it. Sounds intriguing. Going to have to give it a go. :science:
 
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
"This is Major Tom to Ground Control (...) I'm floating in a most peculiar way"

I received the Project and can already tell I'm much satisfyed. Excellent my good man @Pipes! It bloody works, to say the least!

It's close to be very good, spare three points we should try to improve in the future. I finished my second test bowl, initial report follows. This is not a review, and as it is a community project or at least meant to be, it would feel a bit out of place. I mean it's not presented as a commercial product, even if in practice it is @Pipe's creation and to date he is the only maker. So for some reason it would feel awkward to me to review it like your average chinese mass produced vape.

Furthermore it's way too soon to make any definitive judgment, and I need to improve my technique. But right now, with the Project still warm sitting next to me on the desk, there are already a lot of things to say!

1) Shipping was fast (Europe), packaging a bit light but it wasn't crushed. Maybe you could consider adding an extra folded piece of cardboard but no big deal if you don't.

2) Fit and finish very nice, lean, efficient. I wish the stem would have a slightly tighter fit in the o-rings, as it wobbles a bit (at first I thought there was a minute air leak here but apprently not) Again no big deal especially when users will use their other stem(s) of choice.

3) The linseed oil smell is really strong and clearly overwhelmed the taste of my first couple of sessions. This is the first of my 3 negative points. But I know it should fade away and it's absolutely not comparable to smelling silicone and/or plastics (aka robot fart aka new car smell) like in nearly all vapes from PRC. It's natural but disturbing, and I understand why @PPN said it smelled like paint. I don't know how to improve that part, but did you consider making raw/untreated wooden parts? If someone could make compatible rare wood bodies that would be great!

4) Initial coil reading at 0.5 ohm, locked in. I'm using an evic VTC Mini with 3.03 firmware. I bought it from fasttech but took care of selecting the version with "authentic" in the product name. Came with a genuine security code that worked on joyetech website. Setting was easy.

5) TCR set to 145, first session started at 250°C/480°F. Loaded with 0.06g approx, a tad more than half my usual load size. Sucked in the stem, then tamped with the FM5 tool to make a nice flat puck covering the screen fully. Hit the trigger, got first hit in 2 seconds, the thing is fast and works. Taste covered by linseed but nice small hit (I was so afraid of combusting during this run that I was overly cautious)

6) Tried to rotate the stem after each hit but got a very focused hot spot nonetheless, starting to spoil the taste. Got quite good hits then decided to stir, made a mess... Raised temp to 275°C/530°F but bowl screen wasn't fully covered anymore (due to the spilling...) and it was wispy. ABV was light brown and more uniform than expected anyways.

7) Second session, loaded with 0.1g approx, tamped good, almost filling the stem. This time I started at 230°C/445°F and spent most of the session there, nailing down the technique and modulating the preheating/drawing/clearing times (at the end it was 1sec preheat, 4 to 5 seconds drawing with trigger on, then 3 to 5 seconds drawing with trigger off to clear, similar to how I use the Zion but with less preheat as this one has way less inertia, it's a tiny coil!) Hot spot was more manageable but still there. I stirred twice then retamped during the session then ended at 250°C/480°F. ABV looked properly extracted but session was shorter than a Zion session with the same load.

I'm positively impressed so far. So the two problems we should try to improve are the hotspot(s) and the teflon component. For the latter it's simple, we just need to crowdsource the search of a replacement part. I know most of you guys are fine with it but I'd rather have some less controversial material in there, even if it's prolly safe. Let's say, just for the peace of mind.

For the hotspot I'm sure load position, packing and other parameters enter into play, but we're down to the initial talks about turbulences, vortexes and what not, as well as coil geometry changes. I'm sure we'll find something.

Now for those who wondered: no, it's not comparable to the Zion, but it's not meant to be. Zion heater tech has a drawback: it takes a lot of space. This one is tiny and portable. I don't have a Milaana for now but I have the intuition that the Project has some pros and cons that balance well with the Milaana ones. As usual my advice would be: buy them both! :tup:

PS: it's a bit weird at first that the box enters protection mode so fast then only pulses about 4A for very short bursts. In the Zi/Mi it's full-on 40-60W continuous. But in the end it works so it could mean that this is way more efficient battery-wise.

PS2: I was testing a Samsung 25R cell that I have some doubts about (could be a fake or a B-grade as it came from BangGood and was a bit too cheap) so as a safety measure I set the Watts limiter to 40W on the evic.
 

PPN

Volute of Vapor
4) Initial coil reading at 0.5 ohm, locked in. I'm using an evic VTC Mini with 3.03 firmware. I bought it from fasttech but took care of selecting the version with "authentic" in the product name. Came with a genuine security code that worked on joyetech website. Setting was easy.
Where do you find the genuine security code and why do you need to go on Joyetecxh website?

I bought mine from Fastech too but I used a link from Pipes.

Still working to get the best performances but I'm still not getting Nano style hits, I'm able to avoid the hot spot but vapor is whispy. With the provided stem I add a screen to help to prevent hot spots.

edit:I set my power at 60W and I don't get the weak battery issue until they are +50% depleted.
 
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