The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
So do you guys have pretty control on temps and equivalences, or is it : More power, Less power ..
I've seen @natural farmer that with TCR @ 200, you find that temp displayed is pretty close to real one.

What do I need to order ? :ninja:
Will my Evic VTC mini have enough 'Cojones' to drive the Eraser ? :goon:
I don't think there are exact temps... I still am not sure of how is this working exactly but what I have figured out so far are these:
Sometimes the resistance of the coil is going up and sometimes down. It might have to do with dirty 510 threads or air moisture or air temperature. I try to lock it at lower values but some times lock doesn't work and I have to lock it again. When the resistance goes up the coil glows at lower temps with the TCR fixed (if I remember correctly).
Same happens with TCR. With a locked resistance when the TCR goes up the coil glows at lower set temps. So with a TCR of 145 and my coil at 0.56Ω the coil will barely glow at 300°+. If I set the TCR at 200 the coil will barely glow at about 230°+. TCR affects stepping of set temperature if I have understood correctly. Higher TCR = narrower temp stepping.
I am pretty sure @Pipes can explain it better. He tried to explain it to me a few times but the small language barrier and the fact that I am trying to reduce my brain rythms these last few years don't help with grabbing everything. I usually play between 20-30° these days with my shitty street weed...
And the way the Project brings out the flavour makes this shit stink more. I prefer to use my VC with these flowers.. It blunts the taste a little. :p
 

rabblerouser

Combustion Fucker
I'm pretty happy with the cuboid, it is smaller and about the same weight as my sigelei fuchai 200w I carry as my regular e-cig boxmod. Still, I hit the nicotine e-cig all day long, so I need the dual battery. I think with my lower power needs for a portable, I am thinking about either the evic vtwo mini, or less likely the eleaf pico. No need for all-day battery when i don't use a portable all-day
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
I'm pretty happy with the cuboid, it is smaller and about the same weight as my sigelei fuchai 200w I carry as my regular e-cig boxmod. Still, I hit the nicotine e-cig all day long, so I need the dual battery. I think with my lower power needs for a portable, I am thinking about either the evic vtwo mini, or less likely the eleaf pico. No need for all-day battery when i don't use a portable all-day

Yeah, Im really liking the cuboid a lot (not that I know any other mods). I swore off battery vapes after my experience with the GH and a few others, but the eraser is rock solid performance so far.

Sometimes the resistance of the coil is going up and sometimes down. It might have to do with dirty 510 threads or air moisture or air temperature. I try to lock it at lower values but some times lock doesn't work and I have to lock it again. When the resistance goes up the coil glows at lower temps with the TCR fixed (if I remember correctly).
Same happens with TCR. With a locked resistance when the TCR goes up the coil glows at lower set temps. So with a TCR of 145 and my coil at 0.56Ω the coil will barely glow at 300°+. If I set the TCR at 200 the coil will barely glow at about 230°+.

Interesting. I get no glow at all at 230c. The resistance on my coil kept changing wildly before it snapped, im sure theres other culprits too tho, but it also kept losing the lock on the ohms. Since I rebuilt the coil its been rock solid. Have you updated the firmware at all, just out of interest.
 
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natural farmer

Well-Known Member
Interesting. I get no glow at all at 230c. The resistance on my coil kept changing wildly before it snapped, im sure theres other culprits too tho, but it also kept losing the lock on the ohms. Since I rebuilt the coil its been rock solid. Have you updated the firmware at all, just out of interest.
I updated the firmware a couple weeks ago.
My coil had a surge in ohms last week or so and went up to 0.80Ω with varied readings during the day. I didn't do anything that could cause such readings. Then I cleaned the threads a little and it went down at about 0.65Ω. Then again on its own it came down to 0.54-0.55 and I was locked at 0.54 for some days until it lost the lock for the first time and now I manage to lock only at .56. So I don't know what is going on exactly. Time will probably tell! :lol:

I get glow at 230° C when TCR is at 200 and coil at .56Ω, very faint one, seeing it in the dark.

Another think I am noticing with my modded Air stem is that if I am drawing hard set temps are much higher than actual ones but if I draw comfortably the temps tend to be much more realistic (TCR 155/0.56Ω). Last session, with medium draw speed, comfortable pulling, I vaped at 210-225° C and finished the load at 230° and a pretty dark ABV. Pretty point on I think but can't be 100% of course. :)
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I updated the firmware a couple weeks ago.
The last shot of your display shows to last official firmware. Did you try the "myevic" firmware?
Main features that effect our needs are:

-ohms lock works better.
-manual ohms calibration in 1/100 of an ohm resolution.
-option to turn off ohms checking
-time out can go to 15 seconds instead of 10 seconds.

Other "myevic" options best left alone until you get the hang of the menus and what they do. There is many different options to play with.
BTW, I found the initial preheat glow can be controlled by the watts setting which is like the ceiling setting. Holding the temp really doesn't take that much power. However, I like a certain amount of preheat as gets things going quicker. Anyway, point being, we have complete control. A rare thing but also pulls out the safety net of being able to easily combust or starting a camp fire. Or.. self destruct the coil....

:science:
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
The last shot of your display shows to last official firmware. Did you try the "myevic" firmware?
Main features that effect our needs are:

-ohms lock works better.
-manual ohms calibration in 1/100 of an ohm resolution.
-option to turn off ohms checking
-time out can go to 15 seconds instead of 10 seconds.

Other "myevic" options best left alone until you get the hang of the menus and what they do. There is many different options to play with.
BTW, I found the initial preheat glow can be controlled by the watts setting which is like the ceiling setting. Holding the temp really doesn't take that much power. However, I like a certain amount of preheat as gets things going quicker. Anyway, point being, we have complete control. A rare thing but also pulls out the safety net of being able to easily combust or starting a camp fire. Or.. self destruct the coil....

:science:


Also, 1 degree temp stepping.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
My coil had a surge in ohms last week or so and went up to 0.80Ω with varied readings during the day. I didn't do anything that could cause such readings. Then I cleaned the threads a little and it went down at about 0.65Ω. Then again on its own it came down to 0.54-0.55 and I was locked at 0.54 for some days until it lost the lock for the first time and now I manage to lock only at .56. So I don't know what is going on exactly. Time will probably tell!

I think your coil is loose and you experience variable contact resistance. My eraser had this issue when new. For some reason it wasn't screwed tight anymore, maybe a combination of transport and usage.

Use a pair of pliers to hold the top nut and gently screw the bottom screw, but not too much as you could damage the white insulator. Your cold resistance value should be rock-solid.
 
KeroZen,
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natural farmer

Well-Known Member
I think your coil is loose and you experience variable contact resistance. My eraser had this issue when new. For some reason it wasn't screwed tight anymore, maybe a combination of transport and usage.

Use a pair of pliers to hold the top nut and gently screw the bottom screw, but not too much as you could damage the white insulator. Your cold resistance value should be rock-solid.

till i got the 5mm socket driver i was unable to tight right the coil , i suggest getting one.

Although it looks tight I am gonna get a driver and nose pliers and try to screw tighter... Thanks for the suggestion guys! This next load is to you! :cheers:
 

ander

Well-Known Member
The heart, the TC box, it's an easy step... but collecting the ingredients for the... oven? is quite tough. Some links are dead, Aliexpress delivers in 40 days if all goes well, and I've found difficult to find many simple pieces (bolts, washers, the screw...) with equal characteristics in my local stores...
Is this the way to go? where is my VapCap shit!!!
 
ander,
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Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I started using Amazon for the nuts, bolts and washers. Still comes from China I think, but seems faster than Ali. Around 3 weeks..?
 
Pipes,

ander

Well-Known Member
Thanks Pipes, and thanks for sharing the project! I'll go further with the research. But if the keyword is China, maybe one of my friends can help me find a shorter way out...
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
The heart, the TC box, it's an easy step... but collecting the ingredients for the... oven? is quite tough. Some links are dead, Aliexpress delivers in 40 days if all goes well, and I've found difficult to find many simple pieces (bolts, washers, the screw...) with equal characteristics in my local stores...
Is this the way to go? where is my VapCap shit!!!

I didnt even bother looking. I love tinkering and now I've taken the eraser apart and put it back together, I love the thing even more, and know I'll be able to fix it really easily... but building it myself initially? Nah :)

All Hail Pipes :)

Although it looks tight I am gonna get a driver and nose pliers and try to screw tighter... Thanks for the suggestion guys! This next load is to you! :cheers:

When I opened mine up after the coil snapped, I realised one part had melted slightly on my initial first heat up that caused all the damage. It also became clear that the screw was way looser than it should have been, adding to the fucked up readings. I've stopped twisting the stem when its attached to the atomizer as I found this moved the whole unit but kept the screw or something held in place, loosening the whole thing.

Basically, I'm kinda glad it burnt out and feel like I understand completely how the atomizer works now after having to rebuild it, yet another reason why Im a big fan of this project. The sheer simplicity of it shows even more how utterly ridiculous all the over design of electric vapes has been over the last few years. I'm so glad the tech and the community has come full circle so things like this and dynavap exist.

I dont need a fucking phone app! I dont need enclosed, secret hardware. I just some fucking heat, weed and a mouthpiece :) Something that just bloody works and that I can fix! :)
 
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Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Thanks Pipes, and thanks for sharing the project! I'll go further with the research. But if the keyword is China, maybe one of my friends can help me find a shorter way out...
I too, really dislike ordering from China because of world economics. However, can't beat the pricing and I'm a cheap ass. Our government makes it hard because of shipping charges whereas the China government subsidizes product exporting shipping costs. Which is the reason for all the free shipping. IMHO. other countries need to wake up to this problem.

The reason the screw loosens up is due to overheating. The nylon insulating gasket will crush under prolonged high heat thus loosening the connection. Under normal use the nut and bolt doesn't get hot enough to damage the nylon bushing. This happens while the user is going through the initial setup of the mod. As mentioned, knowing how the unit is put together helps in understanding. Just heating and letting it run without any airflow is the culprit. Air flow moves the heat away from the insulator.

Still open to change if anyone can find a alternative insulating bushing. I've looked and looked. Alumina or similar would be ideal but can only find at outrages prices. Need M3 (3mm) size.

:science:
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
The reason the screw loosens up is due to overheating. The nylon insulating gasket will crush under prolonged high heat thus loosening the connection. Under normal use the nut and bolt doesn't get hot enough to damage the nylon bushing. This happens while the user is going through the initial setup of the mod. As mentioned, knowing how the unit is put together helps in understanding. Just heating and letting it run without any airflow is the culprit. Air flow moves the heat away from the insulator.

This certainly makes it less likely I had a bad boxmod, as i think it was my very first heating that caused all the damage.

Although, the cuboid did die very quickly. I know more about batteries now and the two I borrowed off a friend before my own arrived I now wouldnt touch with a barge pole :) He hasnt looked after them at all :)
 

fluffhead

Recovering Idealist
I have a cuboid ordered but I am now looking for the right batteries while trying to keep my battery costs down. Are green Samsung 25r a good choice for batteries for this application?

Also, have any Canadians successfully ordered batteries from fasttech.com recently? I tried to order 4xvtc4 but I had no shipping options available to me. Other good battery choices from fasttech.com?
 
fluffhead,

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
I have a cuboid ordered but I am now looking for the right batteries while trying to keep my battery costs down. Are green Samsung 25r a good choice for batteries for this application?

Also, have any Canadians successfully ordered batteries from fasttech.com recently? I tried to order 4xvtc4 but I had no shipping options available to me. Other good battery choices from fasttech.com?

Someone a few pages back said 25r's were good. I went with it. Seems to be working fine. Cant help with the rest Im afraid!

EDIT: Further experiment findings!

220c seems to be my sweet spot for flower. It leaves everything an even mid light brown, much lighter than I'm used to, but taking the temp up 2 degrees at a time, 224 darkens the load but theres no more actual vapor and all that seems to happen is the taste turns.

God damn, this is accurate vaping! :) Anything over 225 is me risking combustion based on draw speed. 222 and below is pure taste right up until vapour production stops.
 
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Hippie Dickie

The Herbal Cube
Manufacturer
I started using Amazon for the nuts, bolts and washers. Still comes from China I think, but seems faster than Ali. Around 3 weeks..?

i used to get pieces and parts from smallparts.com - fast access to small quantities of everything a designer/inventor needs .... they got absorbed by Amazon.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
The sheer simplicity of it shows even more how utterly ridiculous all the over design of electric vapes has been over the last few years. I'm so glad the tech and the community has come full circle so things like this and dynavap exist.

Heh! Don't forget that some serious engineering went into designing the box mod you use. The heater is simple, like in most vapes in fact, but the rest around it is far from the early mechanical mods.
 
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