The Mighty by Storz & Bickel

daoist

Well-Known Member
it was white widow and buddha haze. both pretty much done at 180. on higher temp maybe some scraps come out but not a lot.
 

vapviking

Old and In the Way
it was white widow and buddha haze. both pretty much done at 180. on higher temp maybe some scraps come out but not a lot.
And if you vaped those 2 at highest temp, from the start?]
I'm going to suggest that, (with Mighty) if you want to vape some at lower temp in daytime and higher in the evening, then use a smaller load, in other words, finish what you start on a given 'session'.

I have a couple of convection vapes (Splinter, Hopper io, VLeaf Go, and each can be stopped mid-bowl and resumed at will. Conduction vapes, not so much. Yes, people do it, but it is far from optimal use of yer bud or your vape.
 

shopdognyc

Well-Known Member
I don’t think so. I smoke during the day at 160. I’ll come home and cook at 180 then at 210 I still get a ton of clouds
 
shopdognyc,

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
Right agree, but not looking to her high during the day. I just finish it off. The get around I could pop out the dosing capsules in between use.
Ah I get you. I love the dosing caps, that's all I use in my Mighty. They're just so damn convenient and my oven stays nice and clean.
 
SquirrelMaster,
  • Like
Reactions: shopdognyc

daoist

Well-Known Member
i use dosing cap to. but i only use the bottom parts and not the lid. i put the meshscreen from my bong adapter on top of the microdose tincan bowl so the herb is trapped from all sides. i put 0.1gram in there and hits me well for at least 2 hours.

i guess i never really had the priviledge of true microdosing before. i really like it though.

not sure if my microdosing method affects the abv color or vape amount.
 

ETNAMAKER

Member
I would like to update you about the project I have already started talking about.

I have made this prototype in solid mahogany wood, CNC carved, hand finished with mineral oil and Carnauba wax. Everything fit inside properly and works like a charm. With regard to heat dissipation it seems to be fine but I have not used any tools to verify it, despite this I have been using it for a few weeks now and I am quite satisfied. The shell was designed to stand up on its own , some minor adjustments are yet to come but I hope to make some of them in different woods soon.
Currently it is just a fun project, I don't know what path it will take, first of all I would like to evaluate if this solution presents any critical issues, perhaps having it tested by some interested friend. Hopefully I'd be happy to produce some pieces. I thank everyone and I invite you to let me know what you think, even critical opinions are welcome!




 

simplywonderful

Well-Known Member
I think it have to do with moistore also, some really dried bud gave me few hits. Usually if you remove the cap and save it for later its not worth it, barely could see the cloud and feel the taste. On the top of it after minute of turning the device off with cu mounted and cap there, it starts to get hotter and stink, residual heat, which cooks it even more

I would like to update you about the project I have already started talking about.

I have made this prototype in solid mahogany wood, CNC carved, hand finished with mineral oil and Carnauba wax. Everything fit inside properly and works like a charm. With regard to heat dissipation it seems to be fine but I have not used any tools to verify it, despite this I have been using it for a few weeks now and I am quite satisfied. The shell was designed to stand up on its own , some minor adjustments are yet to come but I hope to make some of them in different woods soon.
Currently it is just a fun project, I don't know what path it will take, first of all I would like to evaluate if this solution presents any critical issues, perhaps having it tested by some interested friend. Hopefully I'd be happy to produce some pieces. I thank everyone and I invite you to let me know what you think, even critical opinions are welcome!




Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn that loooks really exceptional ! so it is a case or replacement of the housing ? SB should made this long time ago and sell it for 500
 

simplywonderful

Well-Known Member
I think it have to do with moistore also, some really dried bud gave me few hits. Usually if you remove the cap and save it for later its not worth it, barely could see the cloud and feel the taste. On the top of it after minute of turning the device off with cu mounted and cap there, it starts to get hotter and stink, residual heat, which cooks it even more


Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn that loooks really exceptional ! so it is a case or replacement of the housing ? SB should made this long time ago and sell it for 500
btw forgot to ask, its clearly the housing when I see the pictures on bigger monitor rather on the phone :D Im wondering how did you calculated the exact measurement and if you would be willing to share the files for cnc? It looks absolutely flawless, really nice choice of wood, no more CU ribs cracks :D I love wood, do you think the heat from the mighty might get the wood working, or the mineral oils + Carnauba wax will help to conserve it? apologies for double post, wanted to edit but missed that time window
i dont like the metal on my throat. the screen gives me smoother hits
I used to do this with fine screens too, the smaller ones, but they no longer care them in pipe store around here. I think it gives you smoother less restricted fuller hits. Well 2 hours is great, I wasted few mighty units on a redgie bud ,which was the only thing I was able to get in this shithole, got you a buzz for 15-30minutes lol. I could say it was waste of the batteries and the unit but M can turn even redgie to something that at least affects you :D I tried CBDs recently from US and they were amazing, never smelled terps like that before. Little redgie and bit of cbd did wonders to those effects ! :D
 
Last edited:

vapviking

Old and In the Way
I would like to update you about the project I have already started talking about.

I have made this prototype in solid mahogany wood, CNC carved, hand finished with mineral oil and Carnauba wax. Everything fit inside properly and works like a charm. With regard to heat dissipation it seems to be fine but I have not used any tools to verify it, despite this I have been using it for a few weeks now and I am quite satisfied. The shell was designed to stand up on its own , some minor adjustments are yet to come but I hope to make some of them in different woods soon.
Currently it is just a fun project, I don't know what path it will take, first of all I would like to evaluate if this solution presents any critical issues, perhaps having it tested by some interested friend. Hopefully I'd be happy to produce some pieces. I thank everyone and I invite you to let me know what you think, even critical opinions are welcome!




I have some positive and some negative comments. (hey, you asked!)
Some of these are repetition of comments I made when you first showed us 'the project'.

In the Plus column;
It is beautiful. A splendid and welcome change from the black peet, no question.
It is a marvelous accomplishment and tons of work plus a lot of time with the digitizing, etc, etc, and the refining not to mention the hand work to make it a fine-looking piece.

In the Minus column;
I offer my serious doubts about wood being a good material for this. I was an independent woodworker for some years before having an 18 year stint running a woodworking shop and selling hard- and soft woods.

There are two areas I question in particular.

First the area around the bowl where the c/u engages. If this wood version mimics the og design, then it is likely even weaker there than the peet is. We call it short grain, and pieces will chip out of there with very little stress applied. I would love to see that area treated differently; reinforced with a metal plate there, perhaps? idk, will think more on this.

Second has to do with the two screws that hold the halves together. My suggestion is to use threaded inserts (usually metal tube threaded on inside and threaded or barbed on outer surface). Allows for use of machine screws rather than wood screws.

A general comment on the design is my encouragement to stay with the idea, keep refining or re-imagining. Look (think) outside the S&B box. Why does this exact shape need to be the shape of a vape? The Mighty's design is predicated on the material, peet. When wood is the material, different starting parameters apply.
Look at any other wooden vape today - none uses a case that is thin and brittle, all are a 'brick' or a 'log' or some such attractive name. RBT has an small open-source program (as in, 'here's the guts of a vape, do what you want in making the case') and makers are coming up with some crazy stuff.

And one last thought, consider losing the cooling unit altogether. Glass stem anyone?

All in all, I applaud your effort! Keep going, keep thinking about 'better' and not about being 'just like Mighty'.
 

ETNAMAKER

Member
I think it have to do with moistore also, some really dried bud gave me few hits. Usually if you remove the cap and save it for later its not worth it, barely could see the cloud and feel the taste. On the top of it after minute of turning the device off with cu mounted and cap there, it starts to get hotter and stink, residual heat, which cooks it even more


Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn that loooks really exceptional ! so it is a case or replacement of the housing ? SB should made this long time ago and sell it for 500
btw forgot to ask, its clearly the housing when I see the pictures on bigger monitor rather on the phone :D Im wondering how did you calculated the exact measurement and if you would be willing to share the files for cnc? It looks absolutely flawless, really nice choice of wood, no more CU ribs cracks :D I love wood, do you think the heat from the mighty might get the wood working, or the mineral oils + Carnauba wax will help to conserve it? apologies for double post, wanted to edit but missed that time window
First of all...thanks! Receiving positive feedback is always pleasant, I spend lot of time on it and I really hope to get the result I want.
To choose the finish I was inspired by similar products such as cutting boards and pipes, I wanted something that would help me protect the wood from humidity and dirt. Carnauba wax has a high melting point which could be useful in order to last longer. Both mineral oil and wax should be food grade. I start taking all first measurement with a Vernier caliper, it was not that easy but little by little I was able to fix it. Here is a photo of my "mistakes"



I would also like to answer about the possibility of sharing the model. This project has cost me a lot of work and will probably require more. The realization is not very difficult if you start from the right model but this represents 95% of the work. I have received dozens of requests regarding the possibility of buying the wooden housing, I am a beginner in this job but I hope to turn this passion into something profitable especially because in this way I will be able to afford better equipment and increasingly challenging creations. I wanted to be super honest, I hope you understand my point. Thank you again for the compliments :)


I have some positive and some negative comments. (hey, you asked!)
Some of these are repetition of comments I made when you first showed us 'the project'.

In the Plus column;
It is beautiful. A splendid and welcome change from the black peet, no question.
It is a marvelous accomplishment and tons of work plus a lot of time with the digitizing, etc, etc, and the refining not to mention the hand work to make it a fine-looking piece.

In the Minus column;
I offer my serious doubts about wood being a good material for this. I was an independent woodworker for some years before having an 18 year stint running a woodworking shop and selling hard- and soft woods.

There are two areas I question in particular.

First the area around the bowl where the c/u engages. If this wood version mimics the og design, then it is likely even weaker there than the peet is. We call it short grain, and pieces will chip out of there with very little stress applied. I would love to see that area treated differently; reinforced with a metal plate there, perhaps? idk, will think more on this.

Second has to do with the two screws that hold the halves together. My suggestion is to use threaded inserts (usually metal tube threaded on inside and threaded or barbed on outer surface). Allows for use of machine screws rather than wood screws.

A general comment on the design is my encouragement to stay with the idea, keep refining or re-imagining. Look (think) outside the S&B box. Why does this exact shape need to be the shape of a vape? The Mighty's design is predicated on the material, peet. When wood is the material, different starting parameters apply.
Look at any other wooden vape today - none uses a case that is thin and brittle, all are a 'brick' or a 'log' or some such attractive name. RBT has an small open-source program (as in, 'here's the guts of a vape, do what you want in making the case') and makers are coming up with some crazy stuff.

And one last thought, consider losing the cooling unit altogether. Glass stem anyone?

All in all, I applaud your effort! Keep going, keep thinking about 'better' and not about being 'just like Mighty'.
I want to thank you so much for your comment. Receiving a criticism from a qualified person like you is certainly of great value, it usually pays to have such an opinion. In addition, receiving compliments on aesthetics from those who have certainly seen and produced many things is very gratifying.

But now let's talk about what interests me most, which is the possible problems. I find all the observations you have made valid, even I have often thought about them and these are my current conclusions.

Drastically changing the design would expose me to the possibility of drastic errors. As I spent time studying the Mighty I could understand a lot of the design choices they made. Revolutionizing the design of the product would be as beautiful as it is complicated especially for me who are alone and beginners. In addition, it is not said that what is good for me may also be good for other owners of this device who may be very fond of the original design. Precisely for this reason I decided to try to improve the original model trying not to disturb the balance between wanting to reinforce the weak parts and avoiding that the addition of material can turn into a thermal bridge, thus ensuring that the heat you pass too easily from the heating chamber to the electronics. I have made some changes to the parts that have broken in my old case, if I understand the point that you are concerned about the plastic has not broken there but to the thin wing to which it was anchored. For this reason I made it thicker, to evaluate the effectiveness of the changes and the performance on the wood I thought it might be interesting to block the vaporizer and hang some weight on the cooling unit until it breaks the wooden housing in order to find out how much it resists, how and where it breaks down reached excessive weight. Could it be a good idea?
Despite everything there are still a few things especially inside that need to be readjusted to the change of material exactly as you pointed out to me, my intention was to have a similar base to the original starting on which to work considering that the wood is a difficult material on which I will never stop learning, anisotropic par excellence without two truly identical pieces of it. Using more plastic costs, for me leaving more wood means saving time so I have every interest in making it as reinforced as possible in the future. I am very intrigued by the possibility of using metal and I would very much like to have a CNC that also allows me to work the piece vertically, currently it would be too complicated, two sides are already enough!
As for the attachment of the two screws, these do not grip directly on the wood but on the PCB which in turn is supported by four screws directly on the wood. I considered putting inserts on the four screws but this would take more space on the PCB than there is. So I'll just try to make them as resistant as possible by reminding anyone who would one day use the case that it was not designed to be taken apart and reassembled dozens of times. In any case, it will always remain an artisanal product that I will probably be able to sell exclusively for aesthetic use. Using it or not will be a personal choice that can only be made if fully aware of the risks but my greatest interest remains that of making it a "working" product.
What really obsesses me is finding a good way to secure the top, currently I have absolutely nothing foreseen so it can tend to open up a bit like it often does with the original after it takes a hit. Any idea about it?



I want to apologize for the poor English poem but I hope I have answered all the questions and not bored you too much :)
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
First of all...thanks! Receiving positive feedback is always pleasant, I spend lot of time on it and I really hope to get the result I want.
To choose the finish I was inspired by similar products such as cutting boards and pipes, I wanted something that would help me protect the wood from humidity and dirt. Carnauba wax has a high melting point which could be useful in order to last longer. Both mineral oil and wax should be food grade. I start taking all first measurement with a Vernier caliper, it was not that easy but little by little I was able to fix it. Here is a photo of my "mistakes"



I would also like to answer about the possibility of sharing the model. This project has cost me a lot of work and will probably require more. The realization is not very difficult if you start from the right model but this represents 95% of the work. I have received dozens of requests regarding the possibility of buying the wooden housing, I am a beginner in this job but I hope to turn this passion into something profitable especially because in this way I will be able to afford better equipment and increasingly challenging creations. I wanted to be super honest, I hope you understand my point. Thank you again for the compliments :)




I want to thank you so much for your comment. Receiving a criticism from a qualified person like you is certainly of great value, it usually pays to have such an opinion. In addition, receiving compliments on aesthetics from those who have certainly seen and produced many things is very gratifying.

But now let's talk about what interests me most, which is the possible problems. I find all the observations you have made valid, even I have often thought about them and these are my current conclusions.

Drastically changing the design would expose me to the possibility of drastic errors. As I spent time studying the Mighty I could understand a lot of the design choices they made. Revolutionizing the design of the product would be as beautiful as it is complicated especially for me who are alone and beginners. In addition, it is not said that what is good for me may also be good for other owners of this device who may be very fond of the original design. Precisely for this reason I decided to try to improve the original model trying not to disturb the balance between wanting to reinforce the weak parts and avoiding that the addition of material can turn into a thermal bridge, thus ensuring that the heat you pass too easily from the heating chamber to the electronics. I have made some changes to the parts that have broken in my old case, if I understand the point that you are concerned about the plastic has not broken there but to the thin wing to which it was anchored. For this reason I made it thicker, to evaluate the effectiveness of the changes and the performance on the wood I thought it might be interesting to block the vaporizer and hang some weight on the cooling unit until it breaks the wooden housing in order to find out how much it resists, how and where it breaks down reached excessive weight. Could it be a good idea?
Despite everything there are still a few things especially inside that need to be readjusted to the change of material exactly as you pointed out to me, my intention was to have a similar base to the original starting on which to work considering that the wood is a difficult material on which I will never stop learning, anisotropic par excellence without two truly identical pieces of it. Using more plastic costs, for me leaving more wood means saving time so I have every interest in making it as reinforced as possible in the future. I am very intrigued by the possibility of using metal and I would very much like to have a CNC that also allows me to work the piece vertically, currently it would be too complicated, two sides are already enough!
As for the attachment of the two screws, these do not grip directly on the wood but on the PCB which in turn is supported by four screws directly on the wood. I considered putting inserts on the four screws but this would take more space on the PCB than there is. So I'll just try to make them as resistant as possible by reminding anyone who would one day use the case that it was not designed to be taken apart and reassembled dozens of times. In any case, it will always remain an artisanal product that I will probably be able to sell exclusively for aesthetic use. Using it or not will be a personal choice that can only be made if fully aware of the risks but my greatest interest remains that of making it a "working" product.
What really obsesses me is finding a good way to secure the top, currently I have absolutely nothing foreseen so it can tend to open up a bit like it often does with the original after it takes a hit. Any idea about it?



I want to apologize for the poor English poem but I hope I have answered all the questions and not bored you too much :)
Take my money!
 

Putricio

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone. I’ve been a member for a while (5 years) but I don’t post much. I hope everyone is doing well and keeping safe. I need some advice. I vape flower once a week (don’t judge), and that’s it. I try to keep everything in moderation. I have a Dynavap and the Apollo induction heater, both of which I like very much. Now I’m thinking of picking up the Mighty to use as a weekly vape also. Do you guys think the Mighty is too much of a vape for someone who only partakes once weekly? I’d appreciate any advice you all can offer. Thank you in advance for your responses.
 

shopdognyc

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone. I’ve been a member for a while (5 years) but I don’t post much. I hope everyone is doing well and keeping safe. I need some advice. I vape flower once a week (don’t judge), and that’s it. I try to keep everything in moderation. I have a Dynavap and the Apollo induction heater, both of which I like very much. Now I’m thinking of picking up the Mighty to use as a weekly vape also. Do you guys think the Mighty is too much of a vape for someone who only partakes once weekly? I’d appreciate any advice you all can offer. Thank you in advance for your responses.
I started with a Pax2 with no knowledge and took the sale from a smoke shop. I used for a while, but found it a nuisance having to pack often. Years later coffee shop dude I got to know showed me his Crafty. I got my Mighty and going mostly from combusting with paper and a bowl, didn't appreciate.

Now I know a bit more, I think the Mighty is a nice tool to have. You can play with the temperature with the controls. With that said, there are a lot of other devices that are lower in cost, like Arizer Solo ii. I do not own this, but seems to have a lot of positive support. This would come at almost half the cost of the Mighty.

Out of all of my devices though, I go for my Dynavap and Sticky Brick.

My Mighty and Crafty+ are important to me. I do also have the Davinci IQ2, which I like the flavor, but does heat up a lot. If you are just occasional, that could be an option to.
 

darbarikanada

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone. I’ve been a member for a while (5 years) but I don’t post much. I hope everyone is doing well and keeping safe. I need some advice. I vape flower once a week (don’t judge), and that’s it. I try to keep everything in moderation. I have a Dynavap and the Apollo induction heater, both of which I like very much. Now I’m thinking of picking up the Mighty to use as a weekly vape also. Do you guys think the Mighty is too much of a vape for someone who only partakes once weekly? I’d appreciate any advice you all can offer. Thank you in advance for your responses.
I also vape ~1x/week, mostly flower. I have a dynavap (but no induction heater), which I bought after owning a mighty for a while. I got the dynavap because people recommended it for hash, which I thought was a weak area for the mighty. I've since figured out how to vape hash (all kinds: bubble, hard, 'finger') in the mighty, and it actually works great. I never use the dynavap anymore, absolutely prefer the mighty: cooler vapor, easier to use, more discreet in public (no torches). the control is amazing; you can get vapor that's so cool you can barely tell you've taken a hit or crank it up and get ginormous clouds.

the 2 most well-known online vaporizer reviewers ('420 vape zone, and 'vape critic', who's since quit doing reviews) both ranked it in their top 1 or 2 vaporizers. a lot of people feel it's too pricey, but after 4+ years of owning it, it's my favorite by far; I could easily live with it as my only vape for many more years. the only reason to stay away from it besides price is if you want an 'on demand' vape, i.e. want to take a hit or 2 at a time, put it down, come back later for more. (if that's your preference, the current buzz is all about the tinymight.)
 

simplywonderful

Well-Known Member
I also vape ~1x/week, mostly flower. I have a dynavap (but no induction heater), which I bought after owning a mighty for a while. I got the dynavap because people recommended it for hash, which I thought was a weak area for the mighty. I've since figured out how to vape hash (all kinds: bubble, hard, 'finger') in the mighty, and it actually works great. I never use the dynavap anymore, absolutely prefer the mighty: cooler vapor, easier to use, more discreet in public (no torches). the control is amazing; you can get vapor that's so cool you can barely tell you've taken a hit or crank it up and get ginormous clouds.

the 2 most well-known online vaporizer reviewers ('420 vape zone, and 'vape critic', who's since quit doing reviews) both ranked it in their top 1 or 2 vaporizers. a lot of people feel it's too pricey, but after 4+ years of owning it, it's my favorite by far; I could easily live with it as my only vape for many more years. the only reason to stay away from it besides price is if you want an 'on demand' vape, i.e. want to take a hit or 2 at a time, put it down, come back later for more. (if that's your preference, the current buzz is all about the tinymight.)
Interested about your technique, I bet it was mentioned here more than dozen of times but I promise you I will memorize this trick this time :) !
First of all...thanks! Receiving positive feedback is always pleasant, I spend lot of time on it and I really hope to get the result I want.
To choose the finish I was inspired by similar products such as cutting boards and pipes, I wanted something that would help me protect the wood from humidity and dirt. Carnauba wax has a high melting point which could be useful in order to last longer. Both mineral oil and wax should be food grade. I start taking all first measurement with a Vernier caliper, it was not that easy but little by little I was able to fix it. Here is a photo of my "mistakes"



I would also like to answer about the possibility of sharing the model. This project has cost me a lot of work and will probably require more. The realization is not very difficult if you start from the right model but this represents 95% of the work. I have received dozens of requests regarding the possibility of buying the wooden housing, I am a beginner in this job but I hope to turn this passion into something profitable especially because in this way I will be able to afford better equipment and increasingly challenging creations. I wanted to be super honest, I hope you understand my point. Thank you again for the compliments :)




I want to thank you so much for your comment. Receiving a criticism from a qualified person like you is certainly of great value, it usually pays to have such an opinion. In addition, receiving compliments on aesthetics from those who have certainly seen and produced many things is very gratifying.

But now let's talk about what interests me most, which is the possible problems. I find all the observations you have made valid, even I have often thought about them and these are my current conclusions.

Drastically changing the design would expose me to the possibility of drastic errors. As I spent time studying the Mighty I could understand a lot of the design choices they made. Revolutionizing the design of the product would be as beautiful as it is complicated especially for me who are alone and beginners. In addition, it is not said that what is good for me may also be good for other owners of this device who may be very fond of the original design. Precisely for this reason I decided to try to improve the original model trying not to disturb the balance between wanting to reinforce the weak parts and avoiding that the addition of material can turn into a thermal bridge, thus ensuring that the heat you pass too easily from the heating chamber to the electronics. I have made some changes to the parts that have broken in my old case, if I understand the point that you are concerned about the plastic has not broken there but to the thin wing to which it was anchored. For this reason I made it thicker, to evaluate the effectiveness of the changes and the performance on the wood I thought it might be interesting to block the vaporizer and hang some weight on the cooling unit until it breaks the wooden housing in order to find out how much it resists, how and where it breaks down reached excessive weight. Could it be a good idea?
Despite everything there are still a few things especially inside that need to be readjusted to the change of material exactly as you pointed out to me, my intention was to have a similar base to the original starting on which to work considering that the wood is a difficult material on which I will never stop learning, anisotropic par excellence without two truly identical pieces of it. Using more plastic costs, for me leaving more wood means saving time so I have every interest in making it as reinforced as possible in the future. I am very intrigued by the possibility of using metal and I would very much like to have a CNC that also allows me to work the piece vertically, currently it would be too complicated, two sides are already enough!
As for the attachment of the two screws, these do not grip directly on the wood but on the PCB which in turn is supported by four screws directly on the wood. I considered putting inserts on the four screws but this would take more space on the PCB than there is. So I'll just try to make them as resistant as possible by reminding anyone who would one day use the case that it was not designed to be taken apart and reassembled dozens of times. In any case, it will always remain an artisanal product that I will probably be able to sell exclusively for aesthetic use. Using it or not will be a personal choice that can only be made if fully aware of the risks but my greatest interest remains that of making it a "working" product.
What really obsesses me is finding a good way to secure the top, currently I have absolutely nothing foreseen so it can tend to open up a bit like it often does with the original after it takes a hit. Any idea about it?



I want to apologize for the poor English poem but I hope I have answered all the questions and not bored you too much :)
great idea to do the strenght test, maybe with those that were unsuccesful attempts?
Great idea, Im absolutely positive that you should do this as service if you love wood and have passion for woodwork go for it. Im wondering if you are in US or in EU , I know that many people would like to purchase something like that, just to fix /upgrade but maybe shipping would make it overpriced, maybe its not a case, not sure how much it weights, but thats a damn good question to ask, does it makes the mighty much heavier? About trying to make the top piece stick, better said that it loosen up, maybe some kind of different CU mount would be great as legend Vapviking suggested. Some metal clever mechanism would be amazing ( something to the extend of swiss watch wheels and pieces :lol::rofl: But back to EU shipping, I got this idea, if you could license the model and sell it as one time use only would you do it ? Or would you spread and look for a partner in EU?
I really like how Vapviking suggested to think more openly about designs and shapes, maybe SB will then hire you and buy the design from you and made a new official ULTIMATE :):brow::2c:
 

darbarikanada

Well-Known Member
Interested about your technique, I bet it was mentioned here more than dozen of times but I promise you I will memorize this trick this time :) !
no problem. bubble hash is easy: just put ~ 0.05g under the liquid pad, start @ ~170ºC. hard hash is trickier: you have to cut a really thin slice, chop that to little bits, then put it under the liquid pad. you'll probably need higher temps for hard hash.

the mighty is very efficient with hash; it's not unusual to get 15+ hits from 0.05g. if you don't finish the load, the ABV will be gummy, hard to clean. to avoid that, just 'cook' it at 210ºC for a couple minutes at the end to make sure it's past the gummy phase. hope that helps!
 

vapviking

Old and In the Way
no problem. bubble hash is easy: just put ~ 0.05g under the liquid pad, start @ ~170ºC. hard hash is trickier: you have to cut a really thin slice, chop that to little bits, then put it under the liquid pad. you'll probably need higher temps for hard hash.

the mighty is very efficient with hash; it's not unusual to get 15+ hits from 0.05g. if you don't finish the load, the ABV will be gummy, hard to clean. to avoid that, just 'cook' it at 210ºC for a couple minutes at the end to make sure it's past the gummy phase. hope that helps!
Not that I have any hash to try this with, but maybe with some wax? I've only tried putting wax on top of pad; turns out I have other preferred methods for wax, but...

Does the hash tend to liquify and wick up into the pad?
It doesn't go down and gunk the screen (or beyond)?
 

darbarikanada

Well-Known Member
Not that I have any hash to try this with, but maybe with some wax? I've only tried putting wax on top of pad; turns out I have other preferred methods for wax, but...

Does the hash tend to liquify and wick up into the pad?
It doesn't go down and gunk the screen (or beyond)?
I'm not sure I'd risk putting wax under the pad, but - fortunately - that doesn't seem to be necessary - it works great on top (IME).

the problem I've encountered putting hard hash on top of the pad is that it doesn't seem to get as hot as it does under it, resulting in incomplete vaporization - it ends up kind of gummy, hard to get out of the pad. bubble hash on top of the pad works pretty well, but still seems to work a bit better under the pad.

I don't think I'd say that hash 'liquifies' (like wax); the closest it seems to get is that gummy state which (IMHO) just means either that it's not yet spent or that you need to cook it at max temp for a bit to make cleaning easier (you can tell it's done cooking when there's no more smell - this can even be done with the CU off).
 
Top Bottom