The Mighty by Storz & Bickel

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
Oh, yes that o-ring. It is a valid concern. As I mentioned, mine was dried out and cracked easily, I don't think I would do this job if I didn't have a new one to pop in.
Very sorry I did not measure it! A good estimate might be had by measuring the visible bowl diameter and than guess based on photos.
@JCat, have you any experience or suggestions on the ring? (The seal between the chamber proper and the tan color housing.)


Unless you are a 'power user', like 8+bowls a day, you probably won't "need" more than one spare c/u, and even that is mostly for convenience.
There are several nice tips that can make cleaning easier. One is that you don't need to completely remove o-rings or screen from c/u before iso cleaning.

I think my vote would be for one c/u and either a w&t kit or screens and o-rings a la carte.
I happen to like dosing caps and suggest you have at least a small set to try out. The 8-cap caddy is a clever design - the lid is a capsule filling funnel.

To never use Mighty with a proper water piece would be a real shame. I disagree that avoiding wpa's is the consensus. Adding a whip in line to the water tool simply adds length to the vapor path and lets more vapor condense before it reaches the user. Using a whip alone (no water) can be nice.

I've had Mighty/Crafty for about 6 years and have not chipped the body where the wpa mounts. Exercise care, knowing that it is a 'weaker area'. (breaks like this are covered by the 2 yr warranty)

Safest wpa to protect Mighty is the Delta3d v3, and you don't need 2 sizes, it is sized for both 14 and 18 mm glass joint. In design (and in practice) the silicone is just pliable enough to bend and break free from the joint before cracking the joint. Wpa itself is all silicone (but for the screen)
(Delta currently has an interesting "mystery sale" going on, a box full of assorted Mighty items at less than 1/2 price.) I happen to like his stands (color choices!).

Mighty has held a place in our rotation from the moment it (Crafty) arrived, even as lots of other vapes have nosed their way into use. Great choice for a gift to self!

Small loads no problem, just add top screen or maybe a oils pad on top of material to hold it steady (not swirl around) in the chamber.
Thanks man, I would never vape so much using the mighty.
I decided to chase after a TinyMight instead.
Thanks all for assisting.
 

jbm

Well-Known Member
Although I've yet to try the Delta 3d WPA it's the only one I would use with its "softer" construction.
I use the Delta 3D WPA and would recommend that over the glass model. It’s softer and won’t damage the slots on the cooling unit. There are those who have an issue with the use of silicone, so if that includes you, you should go with the glass and just try to be careful with it.
 

Moses Baca

Colorado State Reformatory #8755
I love my Mighty, it's a proven warrior and fits my needs perfectly. Best of luck with the TM, it's the hot ticket right now for sure and lots of folks seem to love it. I prefer to stick with products that have proven themselves over time vs jumping on the latest bandwagon.
 

RustyOldNail

Well-Known Member
Considering a Simrell stem plus vortex for my Mighty or Crafty

people who use a Simrell vortex what size are preferences short or xl?
I was already using the LONG Simrell stem with a titanium dynavap, so I swap that back and forth, works good in adding extra cooling, and I like playing with the carb hole while inhaling, it would be a little harder on the smaller stem. I would never bother with the short stem when using it with a dynavap, my IH can get the shaft pretty warm, so I appreciate the extra length. I never liked the standard DV “M” stems for various reasons, including how short they feel to me, another reason besides cooling that I bought the long stem Simrell in the first place.

BUT: If one could justify buying TWO Simrells, one for a dynavap, and one for the Mighty, you could avoid the switching back and forth. If I specifically bought ONE just for the Mighty, in that one case, it would be the SHORT one, just a better look perhaps. Functionally they are supposed to have the same length vortex inside, so probably close to the same cooling effect.

Good luck, and don’t forget to order the crazy expensive adapter.
 

shopdognyc

Well-Known Member
Its one of those things supporting my VAS. Thought the long one is unnecessarily long for the Mighty. The adapter is nuts at $20, but if I don't do it I'll always wonder.

I don't have huge hands but don't have small hands. The regular or short sized Dynavaps feel like miniatures for me, but I am using an IH most of the time. Spinning the small guy is not too bad once you get used to the flame being right by your finger.

Thanks for sharing.
 
shopdognyc,

RustyOldNail

Well-Known Member
Its one of those things supporting my VAS. Thought the long one is unnecessarily long for the Mighty. The adapter is nuts at $20, but if I don't do it I'll always wonder.

I don't have huge hands but don't have small hands. The regular or short sized Dynavaps feel like miniatures for me, but I am using an IH most of the time. Spinning the small guy is not too bad once you get used to the flame being right by your finger.

Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, the long one is not needed on the Mighty, but the long one is more versatile in my opinion, and I already owned the long one, but wouldn’t like using the shorter one as a DV stem.

With flat rate shipping, the tiny little adapter cost me $29.00, enough plastic to fill up a thimble, and a few orings. Would have been nice after buying a $200 stem, if it were included, or at the least, a link to the 3D printer file. And on that topic, DON’T use 99% ISO on the 3D printed adapter, you will get black residue on the QTip. I emailed Austin about this, as I tested 99% ISO on my Delta3DStudios Mighty loading trays, with NO problem. I told him he should consider using the better 3D material on future releases, not sure he will.

I always buy 99% ISO, as I can dilute it with water myself.
 

shopdognyc

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the long one is not needed on the Mighty, but the long one is more versatile in my opinion, and I already owned the long one, but wouldn’t like using the shorter one as a DV stem.

With flat rate shipping, the tiny little adapter cost me $29.00, enough plastic to fill up a thimble, and a few orings. Would have been nice after buying a $200 stem, if it were included, or at the least, a link to the 3D printer file. And on that topic, DON’T use 99% ISO on the 3D printed adapter, you will get black residue on the QTip. I emailed Austin about this, as I tested 99% ISO on my Delta3DStudios Mighty loading trays, with NO problem. I told him he should consider using the better 3D material on future releases, not sure he will.

I always buy 99% ISO, as I can dilute it with water myself.
Thanks. What do you use to clean the adapter?
 
shopdognyc,

Green Kiwi

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the long one is not needed on the Mighty, but the long one is more versatile in my opinion, and I already owned the long one, but wouldn’t like using the shorter one as a DV stem.

With flat rate shipping, the tiny little adapter cost me $29.00, enough plastic to fill up a thimble, and a few orings. Would have been nice after buying a $200 stem, if it were included, or at the least, a link to the 3D printer file. And on that topic, DON’T use 99% ISO on the 3D printed adapter, you will get black residue on the QTip. I emailed Austin about this, as I tested 99% ISO on my Delta3DStudios Mighty loading trays, with NO problem. I told him he should consider using the better 3D material on future releases, not sure he will.

I always buy 99% ISO, as I can dilute it with water myself.
:hmm:, we are all different clearly, as I use 99% iso all the time to clean my delta adaptors.(I have 5 of them and 3 of them are now over 2 years old and constant in use.)
I just put the filthy one in a jar with 99% iso, shake it a bit, I put in an effort to remember to remove from the jar after 10 minutes.the jar get's nice brown colour and makes good reclaim.
I have in the past forgotten once an adaptor in the jar........it came out next day:completly wrinkled ,like a old raisin. lol. I grew that one away including the iso, I figured it would have leached into the iso.:suspicious:.
we ll got our own ways of doing things, what matters is the end result:"getting high as a kite on the mighty!"
 
Green Kiwi,

RustyOldNail

Well-Known Member
:hmm:, we are all different clearly, as I use 99% iso all the time to clean my delta adaptors.(I have 5 of them and 3 of them are now over 2 years old and constant in use.)
I just put the filthy one in a jar with 99% iso, shake it a bit, I put in an effort to remember to remove from the jar after 10 minutes.the jar get's nice brown colour and makes good reclaim.
I have in the past forgotten once an adaptor in the jar........it came out next day:completly wrinkled ,like a old raisin. lol. I grew that one away including the iso, I figured it would have leached into the iso.:suspicious:.
we ll got our own ways of doing things, what matters is the end result:"getting high as a kite on the mighty!"
Try taking a QTip with 99% ISO, and just scrub the inside, if your QTip is not black, then it was made with the proper 3D plastic. I would never soak my Simrell Mighty adapter, after my own experience.
 
RustyOldNail,

Green Kiwi

Well-Known Member
Try taking a QTip with 99% ISO, and just scrub the inside, if your QTip is not black, then it was made with the proper 3D plastic. I would never soak my Simrell Mighty adapter, after my own experience.
Tried it straight away, as I was curious.:no, no black on Q tip😅.
maybe the Simrell(what is that by the way?)adaptor is indeed made of a different compound.
But the fact that my q tip didn't get black on it , explains why i was wondering.
They clearly are from a slightly different compound, and or batch.mine are old.
I love delta3studios products😍.
 
Green Kiwi,

RustyOldNail

Well-Known Member
Tried it straight away, as I was curious.:no, no black on Q tip😅.
maybe the Simrell(what is that by the way?)adaptor is indeed made of a different compound.
But the fact that my q tip didn't get black on it , explains why i was wondering.
They clearly are from a slightly different compound, and or batch.mine are old.
I love delta3studios products😍.
We were discussing the Simrell to Mighty adapter here:


Not Delta3D products, as I thought I wrote, NO issues with that 3D material.
 
RustyOldNail,

WirtDog

Well-Known Member
Have a recent model Mighty advertised with the boost mode? Not clear on how to get it to work? Is the temp display ever supposed to show 420F? I have had this unit for 2.5 years and my only complaint aside from slow heat-up is the inability to heat to 420-430F to get better extraction. Realize why the design decisions were made and the unit does a beautiful job but it falls short in this area. Any owners have any feelings on this?
 
WirtDog,

invertedisdead

Defenders Of Glass
Have a recent model Mighty advertised with the boost mode? Not clear on how to get it to work? Is the temp display ever supposed to show 420F? I have had this unit for 2.5 years and my only complaint aside from slow heat-up is the inability to heat to 420-430F to get better extraction. Realize why the design decisions were made and the unit does a beautiful job but it falls short in this area. Any owners have any feelings on this?
The Mighty maxes out at 410F, though the display will occasionally creep past that. Boost mode is activated by a double click of the power button in succession, but you need to be lower than max temperature for it to work. It's designed so that you can be at 375 for example, and then boost to 410 without needing to touch the temperature arrows. This feature is more useful on the Crafty since it doesn't have a display screen.
 

mitchgo61

I go where the thrills are
After five plus years of Mighty use, and three Mightys (all still in use), I had a whole new experience....my newest CU simply would not come apart. (I suppose I waited too long to clean it, perhaps, and that epoxy-like resin that this baby collects froze that fucker HARD.) Tried getting it hot again, leaving it in ISO (which reminds me...why cannot I not find ISO anywhere anymore?? :doh:) for a half hour....that sucker would just not come apart. I finally gave up and tossed it.

So the lesson for me is don't wait three weeks between cleanings, especially since I use it so damned much.

Of course I immediately decided to buy a couple spare CUs and found, like ISO, I couldn't locate any in stock outside of an overpriced ebay seller....and then VOILA I checked puffitup and they had it in stock. After applying the usual PUFFEDUP discount code I got two CUs for 33 bucks. Great price.

Lesson number two: Puffitup rules, as always. :nod:
 

RustyOldNail

Well-Known Member
After five plus years of Mighty use, and three Mightys (all still in use), I had a whole new experience....my newest CU simply would not come apart. (I suppose I waited too long to clean it, perhaps, and that epoxy-like resin that this baby collects froze that fucker HARD.) Tried getting it hot again, leaving it in ISO (which reminds me...why cannot I not find ISO anywhere anymore?? :doh:) for a half hour....that sucker would just not come apart. I finally gave up and tossed it.

So the lesson for me is don't wait three weeks between cleanings, especially since I use it so damned much.

Of course I immediately decided to buy a couple spare CUs and found, like ISO, I couldn't locate any in stock outside of an overpriced ebay seller....and then VOILA I checked puffitup and they had it in stock. After applying the usual PUFFEDUP discount code I got two CUs for 33 bucks. Great price.

Lesson number two: Puffitup rules, as always. :nod:
Sounds like a job for an ultrasonic cleaner.
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
After five plus years of Mighty use, and three Mightys (all still in use), I had a whole new experience....my newest CU simply would not come apart. (I suppose I waited too long to clean it, perhaps, and that epoxy-like resin that this baby collects froze that fucker HARD.) Tried getting it hot again, leaving it in ISO (which reminds me...why cannot I not find ISO anywhere anymore?? :doh:) for a half hour....that sucker would just not come apart. I finally gave up and tossed it.

So the lesson for me is don't wait three weeks between cleanings, especially since I use it so damned much.

Of course I immediately decided to buy a couple spare CUs and found, like ISO, I couldn't locate any in stock outside of an overpriced ebay seller....and then VOILA I checked puffitup and they had it in stock. After applying the usual PUFFEDUP discount code I got two CUs for 33 bucks. Great price.

Lesson number two: Puffitup rules, as always. :nod:
I've had good luck finding iso in my local hardware stores like Ace. Usually only by the gallon and only 99%, but they've been $30 which is cheap even before Covid times.

While I've waited too long and found myself fighting it like you did this time, never to the point that I couldn't heat it up and push it out from the top. It must have been really dirty!
 
MonkeyTime,
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mitchgo61

I go where the thrills are
I've had good luck finding iso in my local hardware stores like Ace. Usually only by the gallon and only 99%, but they've been $30 which is cheap even before Covid times.

While I've waited too long and found myself fighting it like you did this time, never to the point that I couldn't heat it up and push it out from the top. It must have been really dirty!
Good tip. I’ll check the hw stores. Yeah I’ve never had an issue before and usually go a few weeks between cleanings since I use capsules.
 

daoist

Well-Known Member
I was extracting at low temperature on the mighty (177 celsius). i vaped at this temp until no visible vape.
l use this temp for day-time non lethargic head high.

now i wanted to toast some abv before going to sleep. at 210 celsius almost nothing came out. not even worth half a hit.

So does the mighty give an almost full extraction at low temperatures? which is just plain vapor-voodoo if that is the case.
And if so, how come i still get the energetic high.
 
daoist,

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
I was extracting at low temperature on the mighty (177 celsius). i vaped at this temp until no visible vape.
l use this temp for day-time non lethargic head high.

now i wanted to toast some abv before going to sleep. at 210 celsius almost nothing came out. not even worth half a hit.

So does the mighty give an almost full extraction at low temperatures? which is just plain vapor-voodoo if that is the case.
And if so, how come i still get the energetic high.
No I would think its the convection oven cooking the weed after you suit it off.
 
SquirrelMaster,

darbarikanada

Well-Known Member
I was extracting at low temperature on the mighty (177 celsius). i vaped at this temp until no visible vape.
l use this temp for day-time non lethargic head high.

now i wanted to toast some abv before going to sleep. at 210 celsius almost nothing came out. not even worth half a hit.

So does the mighty give an almost full extraction at low temperatures? which is just plain vapor-voodoo if that is the case.
And if so, how come i still get the energetic high.
I have a mighty, have found that some strains/grinds are done by 180ºC; it usually seems to happen with finer grinds (like from a pre-roll) or older, drier weed.
 

justcametomind

IT'S TIME!
I was extracting at low temperature on the mighty (177 celsius). i vaped at this temp until no visible vape.
l use this temp for day-time non lethargic head high.

now i wanted to toast some abv before going to sleep. at 210 celsius almost nothing came out. not even worth half a hit.

So does the mighty give an almost full extraction at low temperatures? which is just plain vapor-voodoo if that is the case.
And if so, how come i still get the energetic high.
Did you take your partially vaped bud out of the oven after vaping at 177°C? Next time do so, if you get some hits that way, it was the conduction happening in the oven that vaped your bud this time around.
 
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