Basic Instructions:
1) Adjust the lighter inner blue flame to a 1/2”- 5/8” length. This is the distance between the points of the Lotus flower on the vapor cap.
2) Preheat the plate for 2-4 seconds before inhaling. The tip of the inner flame should just touch the center of the plate.
3) Inhale much slower than you would with a traditional pipe. A full breath should take till the count of 10.
4) Make a small circle with the flame on the plate, about 3/16" diameter.
5) Pull the flame back slightly if you get a red spot on the plate. You want the plate to be on the verge of a glow.
This is a starting point. Everyone has a different technique. The most important thing is flame length. The second most important thing is flame length.
My current hot plate looks like 2 points of the inner triangle are developing the start of cracks, the metal puckers a little there.
Was there perhaps a change in tooling for the plates? @Max Jitter
Don't know that we will ever know the whole answer, just throwing out an idea
one more time : to cook with a torch a material even if it is pure nickel have macro consequences/defaults such as plastic deformation so cracks will appear in time and the simplicity of lotus is brought by having a replacable piece: the plate. Great design @Max Jitter , many evolutions but metallurgy is well known now and there is always a limit in reality.
Did anyone else noticed the pattern of deformation the center of a total new plate? You can see a triangle forming on the central point representing the bondage of the plate and the screws. with multiple uses, hte pattern disappear.
My hypothesis for above-normal cracks/defaults apparition could be the dissymetry of the touching of the 3 screws.
It could be the variance in tolerance on screws holes on the plates that brings once the plate deforms
may be make them bigger or make it ovale on 1mm(long axis on a radius) to permit the plate to deform freely could save some pressure point up there.
If changing a plate I would suggest tightening each screw a bit at a time and not each one all the way in one go. Should help it out with flexing and stress.
Here's a thought if the screws are not tight enough the plate may flex too much there could be a just right not too tight or too loose sweet spot?
There's no reason the plate should need to be changed monthly.
Moreover, I'd be concerned about the necessity to replace the plate often. The screws strip extremely easy (nature of the material, not much that can be done aside from going bigger), and they are threaded into the wood base. Repeated replacement of the plate will cause the holes to strip eventually. It's only a question of how many times before you strip a hole and can't get a tight enough seal for proper performance.
I think if the plate needs to be replaced that frequently, they should have installed threaded inserts into each hole (wood screw outside, threaded opening to use with machine screws).
But who knows, maybe it was a bad batch of plates and MT got nervous enough to tweak the design.
Yes, never tighten 1 screw fully! Also, I would say don't tighten too tight - you want to give the nickle a little "give", and you don't want to risk stripping the wood!
There is hope for a long lasting hot plate.
This is with 100 heat cycles.
Maybe there's a lesson here about fighting stress??
Please, another email.Oooo - pretty! Nice work on an improved design! I was expecting another month before I saw any updates on the plate from you!
Do I need to send another email? Or was my email last week with pictures sufficient?
Ask again after the replacement plate cracks.@Max Jitter I just ordered a replacement plate kit, and it's been shipped as of the 12th. What are the odds of swapping out for the newest plate? Haven't arrived in the mail yet, but I'm assuming it's the old one?