The Lotus Vaporizer

[green13]

You do know the MFLB has an adapter for the bong right?

Yes and thanks for mentioning it. I was going to buy it but my local shop didn't have it in stock so they put together a ground glass adapter with tubing from what looked like a vapor brothers whip. Only charged me $5 and it worked great. Doesn't have the nice wooden piece but it works. It's not too cumbersome but I like the idea of the lotus because there no attachment/tube hanging off the water pipe. It's more self contained and simple and I like that is uses a torch lighter. Anyway, it's another option that looks like it would be fun to use and pass around. But I love my mflb with and without the water pipe

 

[basement farmer]

Crisis in Lotusland. Off to give my two plates a good look. Back in a few....

OK, I'm back. Pretty sure I don"t have cracks. My first cap has some divots in the inner triangle but nothing going thru as far as I can tell.

I've used it fairly heavily, so am a little surprised by that little bit of good fortune. I swear I won't be devastated when my time comes. I'll be happy to buck up and buy a new, improved HD plate.

In the mean time, I'll be happy to use it.

I have a shit-load of back-up options should tragedy strike.

 

[cybrguy]

I have a shit-load of back-up options should tragedy strike.

Heh heh heh

 

[VaporsVaporizer]

I've got a small indent and lately i hear popping when my flame its the top. Is that the start ?

 

[Delta3DStudios]

I've got a small indent and lately i hear popping when my flame its the top. Is that the start ?

Could be - does it pop every time you apply heat to a cool plate? I didn't see my crack for over a week. I only noticed it once I closely examined the blackened spots (the crack was hiding in a crud spot).

Since replacing my plate with a spare (dented) plate, I have only heard it pop once - that could have been settling from first installation. Note I've vaped both reclaim soaked cotton (higher heat), and flowers many times since the new plate, with not a sound from the plate since that one pop.

I wonder if the problem is caused by not giving the plate enough room to expand and contract in the rapid heating of the plate.

I've got some new glass coming from the sunshinestore this week (will be delivered within 7 days of ordering!) Can't WAIT to try them out (Turbine AC and Vortex Mouthpiece). Those plus my Claisen, I should be able to make a bunch of various combinations with the glass I currently have. Can't wait to show some milking videos of my crazy glass contraptions

 

[Fenton Mewley]

So, I was getting all hype on ordering an ash catcher and a whip for the lotus when I decided to take a closer look at my plate.. I took a good look and saw nothing. But, I was not satisfied so I took the plate off and held it up to a light. Sure enough I have a few small holes at the typical spots we are seeing, must be why my bowls always scorched dark brown on one side. I was a little bummed, but decided to install the new plate I just ordered.

My plate replacement kit was also bent (only a little) and only included two screws.. I'm not really happy with the performance I'm getting out of it now and I'm seriously questioning the durability of the plates. If max successfully redesigns the plates, I'll be interested in giving it another shot. I think I'm gonna focus on my HI and get some accessories for it and see if it can't take over as my daily driver.

Sorry to add more bad news to the thread, I was so hyped about the lotus, I'm bummed to learn that I've been sucking in butane for quite a while now. No more lighters for me for a while.

IIRC, this plate epidemic is rather new. Just sounds like a bad batch, IMO. My old plate lasted 5 months, though I didn't look into the light with it, I was well satisfied with its performance. I only had to switch it out because I was an idiot.

Your dark spots are most likely due to technique and how well you spread the flame over the center. I tend to hit the SW corner most of the time. I've spun the plate in all directions, but that spot is the hottest, and I attribute that to my hand motion.

should the inner flame point or the outer flame point kiss the surface of the plate center when heating/drawing through the LOTUS? How much preheating? Stuff like that for we (us?) new users with current versions of the LOTUS.

That's the beauty of the Lotus, you can do either inner flame all the time, outer flame all the time, inner flame for 5 second preheat then outer flame or pretend the flame is a hungry chicken and the feed is on the plate after your preheat.

I do all of those. I like to switch it up and play with my Lotus.

The technique I teach to noobies:

Inner flame (deep blue) circling the middle (DO NOT TORCH THE GROOVES!) for 5 seconds (Al stem) or 6 seconds (WPA), then start inhaling while still keeping the exact motion, stop flame, inhale for 2 more seconds (Al stem) then hold and exhale.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

My technique has evolved a bit. I like my torch substantially longer than recommended. I too preheat my lotus with the inner flame touching (kissing?) the plate for 4-5 seconds. I then start to pull until vapor forms. Once vapor forms, I start to pull back on my torch letting only the 'shadow flame' kiss the plate, sometimes not even kiss, depending on how long I want to Milk the Louts.

 

[VaporsVaporizer]

Could be - does it pop every time you apply heat to a cool plate? I didn't see my crack for over a week. I only noticed it once I closely examined the blackened spots (the crack was hiding in a crud spot).

Since replacing my plate with a spare (dented) plate, I have only heard it pop once - that could have been settling from first installation. Note I've vaped both reclaim soaked cotton (higher heat), and flowers many times since the new plate, with not a sound from the plate since that one pop.

I wonder if the problem is caused by not giving the plate enough room to expand and contract in the rapid heating of the plate.

Yes and it pops at other times too. I've got a spare plate if it should crack , but that was bought at the same time, so it would be from the same production run.

 

[Gray Area]

BTW I admit the picture from vapodudule maybe don't show the "real" colour and light. I can see something on another picture from him, but nothing to do in size with mine. Again maybe it is wrong photo setting

I suspect thisight be the case. I inspected my plate today, using the flashlight of an iPhone to help my old eyes see better.

All of a sudden, as soon as the light hit the plate, all of the discolouration seemed to vanish, and the plate looked almost new. No cracks in mine btw.

My technique has evolved a bit. I like my torch substantially longer than recommended. I too preheat my lotus with the inner flame touching (kissing?) the plate for 4-5 seconds. I then start to pull until vapor forms. Once vapor forms, I start to pull back on my torch letting only the 'shadow flame' kiss the plate, sometimes not even kiss, depending on how long I want to Milk the Louts.

This is pretty much my technique too (with maybe a little less preheating than you). Works good for me.

I'm loving my Lotus too. Over the past week or two I've been pretty much using this little beauty exclusively. Maybe used my solo half a dozen times.

 

[Snappo]

Has anyone asked Maxx what his diagnosis of the problem is? If anyone should have a good idea it would be Maxx I would imagine.

 

[FlyingLow]

He has followed this thread and communicated from the beginning, I have no doubt he will post up when he know what was the cause of failure and when he has a solution for all of his customers.

 

[Snappo]

He has followed this thread and communicated from the beginning, I have no doubt he will post up when he know what was the cause of failure and when he has a solution for all of his customers.

I know! Maxx is excellent! I'm just so curious and this has been a mystery. If I can avoid the cracks from happening to my beloved Lotus, I'd like to know how.

 

[VapeNStone]

I doubt you can really avoid it. If you want big banging hits your plate is going to flex and the flexing is probably what is causing the cracks. Flexing a lot from the heat then someone who draws fast cools it down really fast as well. It is bound to happen IMHO I think the plate just needs to be a hair thicker.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Has anyone asked Maxx what his diagnosis of the problem is? If anyone should have a good idea it would be Maxx I would imagine.

As @Fenton Mewley pointed out - this only seems to be a recent issue. I'm wondering if it isn't a bad batch of plates. Maybe this batch of nickle plates is a few microns thinner than previous batches, causing structural integrity issues. Maybe ordering a new batch of plates from the OEM would help, but there may be no guarantee those will be as thick as the other plates which were working just fine.

I doubt any manufacturer would make a premature statement on the problem. As stated, I have an email from Steve at MT indicating they recognize the problem, and are currently working on a new design.

I think we'll hear some sort of official statement once the results of the testing is complete.

Note, In MT's response email about the cracked plate, Steve stated he would prefer I use my spare (bent) plate until they redesign the hot plate, and they would send me the new and improved design. I told him I wasn't comfortable with my bent plate and I wanted a spare.

That was two days ago, still no response.

 

[rekrab]

just got and ashcatcher for my jhook. and hoooolyyy has it changed my lotus game. big hits. bubbly hits. milky hits. tasty hits whatever man

 

[Vapodudule]

Hey there @Bvapst and all others happy lotus drivers

The hit just above of @Unisonruss is IMO the optimal hit once the device is warm from previous uses. The blue flame is far away and go up as soon as magic happens.

To bring data about images and lotus science :
-colored areas inside of bottom cap unit metal parts under the plate: there were too, i am positive. i bet it is torch radiation . So i wiped it out with ethanol. dunno if the photos were made before or after though!
-charred ring below plate: unavoidable by design. the worst charred cap were 8 months old or so with various uses, the other were younger. SOlution: just let the cap cool down a bit when you smell the wood in the hits and prevent flame to touch part.
-deformation of cap plate: unavoidable by design even without any scratching. cycles of temperature bring expansion of materials so deformation. The way you apply heat brings micro and macro deformations. Cap have to be screwed to make the seal. Some component of these deformations remains time after time (plasticity). What about fatigue consequences on a material resutlating cycles of deformation: cracks!!!!

As a conclusion My 2c piece of advice:
-Hit the plate minimizing the heat on the plate. Touching plate with blue tip should be only for the first warming of the device
-Never ever make it glow red
-Let it rest to cool down after one or two bowls (max)
-stop as soon as you smell wood

 

[Snappo]

As @Fenton Mewley pointed out - this only seems to be a recent issue. I'm wondering if it isn't a bad batch of plates. Maybe this batch of nickle plates is a few microns thinner than previous batches, causing structural integrity issues. Maybe ordering a new batch of plates from the OEM would help, but there may be no guarantee those will be as thick as the other plates which were working just fine.

I doubt any manufacturer would make a premature statement on the problem. As stated, I have an email from Steve at MT indicating they recognize the problem, and are currently working on a new design.

I think we'll hear some sort of official statement once the results of the testing is complete.

Note, In MT's response email about the cracked plate, Steve stated he would prefer I use my spare (bent) plate until they redesign the hot plate, and they would send me the new and improved design. I told him I wasn't comfortable with my bent plate and I wanted a spare.

That was two days ago, still no response.

Outstanding! I should have gone back a bit and read your post s more carefully. Will definitely order a newly designed plate as soon as it's available. ..just in case. Thanks for clarifying the matter!

 

[jambandphan03]

Yeah, at this point I think it would be a good idea to relax, sit back and let Max have a chance to work this out, as he is currently working on it. Testing takes a bit of time. In fact my plate was getting heavily used, and at first a bit abused, when I didn't understand where the flame should be focused, and it took over 6 months to show first signs of damage (pin holes). I don't know what time frame this will take, but we do need to give this issue a little breathing room so it can have time to get worked out.

 

[David and Michael]

I suppose current instructions from Max might be useful. For example, should the inner flame point or the outer flame point kiss the surface of the plate center when heating/drawing through the LOTUS? How much preheating? Stuff like that for we (us?) new users with current versions of the LOTUS.

Basic Instructions:
1) Adjust the lighter inner blue flame to a 1/2”- 5/8” length. This is the distance between the points of the Lotus flower on the vapor cap.
2) Preheat the plate for 2-4 seconds before inhaling. The tip of the inner flame should just touch the center of the plate.
3) Inhale much slower than you would with a traditional pipe. A full breath should take till the count of 10.
4) Make a small circle with the flame on the plate, about 3/16" diameter.
5) Pull the flame back slightly if you get a red spot on the plate. You want the plate to be on the verge of a glow.
This is a starting point. Everyone has a different technique. The most important thing is flame length. The second most important thing is flame length.

 

[grokit]

Hey there @Bvapst and all others happy lotus drivers

-Never ever make it glow red

Don't the instructions pretty much say to make a red glow in the center, then back the flame off and draw?

nvm @Max Jitter beat me too it

 

[Vapodudule]

@grokit I maintain plate glowing red have consequences for inner material (grain changes and macro defaults by the time) and should be avoided. imo rule n°5 does not contradict this statement.

Once the device is warmed up i found you do not even have to touch the plate with flame.

 

[grokit]

Okay my takeaway is no leaning on the glow if I want to avoid cracks/pinholes.

 

[cityslang]

Just opened my spare plate and it is bent? It was in a box so can't have been transit plus I only got 2 replacement screws?

 

[Baked55]

I received my replacement plate today and it was packaged really well, had no bends or anything. Tho it did also only come with 2 screws.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Just opened my spare plate and it is bent? It was in a box so can't have been transit plus I only got 2 replacement screws?

Lol, I really thought my spare cap got dented when I had it on my shelf for 3 weeks, but reading all these recent reports of dented spares makes me doubt that it was ever my fault. Still amazed that they used bubble wrap on such a fragile part.

Funny, mine only had 2 spare screws as well, I thought it was a fluke.....