Discontinued The Firefly Vaporizer

[Mynameismud]

Any vape where your herb is deposited in a bowl/stem that you connect to the vape, will be officially considered convection by FC, should such a definition/division ever be required for any future forum setup. Since you can mate the stem/herb to the heat, take a quick hit, then immeditately remove the stem, that process would be convection. If you let the loaded stem sit in the vape, some conduction will occur, but since that's avoidable, it's a convection design as far as FC is concerned.

Enough on the Solo. This is the Firefly thread.

Sorry i just have one question about this, i sold my solo a year or so ago, but i was always under the impression its conduction. If you put the stem in but not all the way, so its not touching the bottom metal plate, does it still produce good vapor? Theres basically zero airflow without the pvhes stems so how would it be convection?

Personally i think its better to call it a hybrid vaporizer to not mislead anyone...

 

[realz]

First of all apology my mistake, I have too many adapters plugged in. Mine says 9 volts too. But let me check what it reads on a meter and on a scope without a load.

Sometimes a power supply will provide an unfiltered DC with enough AC element to confuse a circuit yet on an averaging meter you don't see it.

If I were you I would focus on one thing only: find some way to get the original adapter connected to the mains. Solder some bare thick wire to the flat pins, whatever it takes. Because running it with the original supply is the only way to be sure where the problem lies. On the physical adapter they are worth very little and you can usually take plyers or cutters to it and break off whatever is blocking.

It took me some time to come back here and sorry...i haven't read the last five pages...i just wanted to give you an update on my situation. I got a replacement battery from the shop i bought the FF from. This one came charged as well and once again the FF worked just fine until i tried to charge it. I got the same symptoms as last time...for five seconds the FF starts to blink blue until i get a constant green LED. Someone on here asked if i turned it off before trying to charge it. Yes i definitely did. I tested and found out that this whole thing with blinking blue and then going to steady green also happens if you remove the battery completely and plug it in.
So i went to a local electronics expert and he took some time to have a look at the details. He checked the battery and it still has ~7V in it. Which means it is empty but apparently working. He told me that it is an intelligent battery with the modul in charge of the charging process built inside. Therefore it is not possible to use third party equipment to charge it. He also checked the performance of the AC adapter (original) which was working perfectly. He told me that its specifications show that it should work just fine in german sockets.
His conclusion was that there is something wrong with the FF unit itself.
That brings me to the question did anybody here experience problems to charge their battery with the firefly unit?

 

[mitchgo61]

Speaking of getting back to the FF...here's a nice piece from College News, whoever that is. They get a few facts wrong (jeez, can't you even report the LED colors correctly?) but a very nice little review regardless.

http://www.collegenews.com/article/...st_luxurious_portable_vaporizer_on_the_market

 

[max]

Sorry i just have one question about this, i sold my solo a year or so ago, but i was always under the impression its conduction. If you put the stem in but not all the way, so its not touching the bottom metal plate, does it still produce good vapor? Theres basically zero airflow without the pvhes stems so how would it be convection?

Personally i think its better to call it a hybrid vaporizer to not mislead anyone...

A vape that's primarily conduction heats by getting the herb in contact with a hot surface. The best example is the old BC Vaporizer design, which is like sprinkling your herb on a hot plate, covering with glass to contain vapor, and then sucking the vapor out. If you can load a stem/whip/bowl with herb and apply it to your heat source, and immediately get a hit, then immediately remove the herb, there's no time for any significant conduction to take place. The fact that the vaporizing process may be improved by allowing some conduction doesn't change the intent of the design. As for calling it a hybrid design, you could do that, but under that definition, a whole bunch of vape models would be labeled that way, including all whip models.

 

[pakalolo]

Enough on the Solo. This is the Firefly thread.

Sorry i just have one question about this, i sold my solo a year or so ago...

 

[1_gr8_underdog]

I had a question regaurding charging. Which I guess I could wait till I have my unit in hand, but I'm curious now.
Does the main power switch have to be in the on position to charge like in the 1st DV & N02?
I have made it to page 36 so far! Arrrgh My eyes lol.

 

[Mynameismud]

@realz i had an issue but it was the charger. No lights when i plugged it in. Tried the charger from my first FF i gave to a buddy and it worked so i just bought a new charger...

Probably doesnt help you, though cause yours sounds like a faulty unit. Contact FF and see?

 

[EveryDayAmnesiac]

I had a question regaurding charging. Which I guess I could wait till I have my unit in hand, but I'm curious now.
Does the main power switch have to be in the on position to charge like in the 1st DV & N02?
I have made it to page 36 so far! Arrrgh My eyes lol.

Nope.

 

[Stu]

By shaken, do you mean giving it a few taps on the side to mix up the herb a bit? That's what I've naturally come to do once I started using the FF. Seems to work well. Tapping/shaking the unit has no known problem-causing effects I assume?

I just give it a decent rap against my palm and you can see the herb get tossed around in the chamber. This won't work if you overpack, however. I have had no problems as of yet using this technique (knocks on wood). YMMV.

 

[fernand]

thats a lot of work for a $269 vaporizer. if the design of the heating system were good, you wouldn't have to stir the herb because it would cook evenly.

That's a valid point or two. You have to decide if it's worth the little adjustments in your routine. I see it as one of the top vapes at the moment, unquestionably tops on taste, but it might not be for everyone. No question that the Solo's heater is a more mature design, it's impressive how evenly it browns stuff. But I just dabbed on a SS pad in the Solo and it feeds ya a very hot toke, where the Firefly gives lovely cool vapor.

 

[tufftitty]

Ok so I opened my FF to clean it out, IT WAS PRETTY DIRTY. Easy as fuck to take apart. I cleaned it up with just a SLIGHTLY damp qtip. Cleaned ceramic with 91% on qtip, saw coil wasn't perfect (it was BARELY off, I should've have bothered with it) and I moved it ever so gently. Put it back together, used it for two days no prob, next day it doesn't heat at all. Light blinks showing that it's supposed to be heating when button held down. So I open it back up, and the coil was broke ever so slightly. Not sure it was because I moved it. But I do suspect that is the reason. So guys, don't fuck with it....I called FF the said send it back, they said they would replace with whole new unit in retail box. They were out of grey so I got silver. Got here fast. Battery lid was faulty, wouldn't stay on. And rocked from side to side. So i live chat and they tried to send me a whole new unit. I talked them into just sending new lid, she overnighted it and THATS WAS ALL IT WAS. So phew,

One more thing at first I didn't like the silver, for one it shows it's imperfections more than the grey. That's a definite, but now I like it better. shit looks crazzzzzy classy. Def the classiest of the 3,

 

[fogbank]

Isn't that strange, that it should be so sensitive to the exact position of the coil? The coil can get THAT much hotter at a different nudge?

I'm not convinced that is the case. I don't believe I affected a significant change in the coil's position when I manipulated it. I was "chicken" and barely moved it at all.

I believe the closer you move the coil to the ceramic plate on top, the hotter your oven will get. Mine was a bit cool, so I simply adjusted the coil angle slightly so it just grazed the ceramic. Works great now.

I'm not sure it's the coil position that's making the difference. Of all the components in there the coil seems hardest to move, but seems to be the most randomly placed (just kind of sitting there in the ceramic encasement).

However both of the white ceramic(?) components, the metal plate, the o-rings, and the glass bowl can all move pretty freely before the top plate is tightened. They can "line up" differently depending on how they are positioned before re-assembly. True there are notches in the top ceramic plate, but there is still a lot of play on the various components.

One indication of this is the slightly smaller gap between the glass bowl and the metal plate when I reassembled my silver unit.

For all 3 combustion events that I experienced, the burning seemed to start in the center of the bowl, like a stream of super-heated air suddenly came up through the little ceramic "core" in the bottom retaining ring, through the holes in the metal plate, and into the glass bowl (PURE SPECULATION).

I just have a hunch that my unit worked better after re-assembly because the components were lined up correctly.

I have now done several sessions without combusting, still with shorter button presses than before. It feels like it may be "back to its old self" now. I'm just pretty paranoid of combustion - I don't want to "reset the clock" waiting for the combustion smell to fade from my Firefly

 

[mitchgo61]

Ok so I opened my FF to clean it out, IT WAS PRETTY DIRTY. Easy as fuck to take apart. I cleaned it up with just a SLIGHTLY damp qtip. Cleaned ceramic with 91% on qtip, saw coil wasn't perfect (it was BARELY off, I should've have bothered with it) and I moved it ever so gently. Put it back together, used it for two days no prob, next day it doesn't heat at all. Light blinks showing that it's supposed to be heating when button held down. So I open it back up, and the coil was broke ever so slightly. Not sure it was because I moved it. But I do suspect that is the reason. So guys, don't fuck with it...

Given my propensity to screw things up, if I tried to move the coil I not only would break it, I would set the house across the street on fire. Interesting that some folks report various levels of debris inside when they take the FF apart...I would have thought that O ring at the bottom of the glass bowl would keep most material inside the bowl. (I notice that if you gently brush under the bowl bottom edge, you can remove abv and you can feel the bristles hit the edge of the o ring...but I'm sure you could displace it if you applied too much pressure.)

I'm not sure it's the coil position that's making the difference. Of all the components in there the coil seems hardest to move, but seems to be the most randomly placed (just kind of sitting there in the ceramic encasement).
I just have a hunch that my unit worked better after re-assembly because the components were lined up correctly.
I have now done several sessions without combusting, still with shorter button presses than before. It feels like it may be "back to its old self" now. I'm just pretty paranoid of combustion - I don't want to "reset the clock" waiting for the combustion smell to fade from my Firefly

Interesting analysis. I've wondered about the little notches in the various ceramic components, and if they had to be aligned a certain way to re-assemble it. Sounds like there are any number of alignment variations. If that alignment is critical, it's easy to screw it up. (Full circle for me.)

 

[WildChild]

I'm not convinced that is the case. I don't believe I affected a significant change in the coil's position when I manipulated it. I was "chicken" and barely moved it at all.



I'm not sure it's the coil position that's making the difference. Of all the components in there the coil seems hardest to move, but seems to be the most randomly placed (just kind of sitting there in the ceramic encasement).

However both of the white ceramic(?) components, the metal plate, the o-rings, and the glass bowl can all move pretty freely before the top plate is tightened. They can "line up" differently depending on how they are positioned before re-assembly. True there are notches in the top ceramic plate, but there is still a lot of play on the various components.

One indication of this is the slightly smaller gap between the glass bowl and the metal plate when I reassembled my silver unit.

For all 3 combustion events that I experienced, the burning seemed to start in the center of the bowl, like a stream of super-heated air suddenly came up through the little ceramic "core" in the bottom retaining ring, through the holes in the metal plate, and into the glass bowl (PURE SPECULATION).

I just have a hunch that my unit worked better after re-assembly because the components were lined up correctly.

I have now done several sessions without combusting, still with shorter button presses than before. It feels like it may be "back to its old self" now. I'm just pretty paranoid of combustion - I don't want to "reset the clock" waiting for the combustion smell to fade from my Firefly

Well, I have to respectfully disagree...I believe coil position is most certainly a significant factor.

However, lining up the ceramic parts properly seemed to improve the airflow.

Again, just my belief. I'm no engineer.

EDIT: Yes! Don't mess with your coil if you have any doubts about how to manipulate it.

 

[pakalolo]

Ok so I opened my FF to clean it out, IT WAS PRETTY DIRTY. Easy as fuck to take apart. I cleaned it up with just a SLIGHTLY damp qtip. Cleaned ceramic with 91% on qtip, saw coil wasn't perfect (it was BARELY off, I should've have bothered with it) and I moved it ever so gently. Put it back together, used it for two days no prob, next day it doesn't heat at all. Light blinks showing that it's supposed to be heating when button held down. So I open it back up, and the coil was broke ever so slightly. Not sure it was because I moved it. But I do suspect that is the reason. So guys, don't fuck with it....I called FF the said send it back, they said they would replace with whole new unit in retail box. They were out of grey so I got silver. Got here fast. Battery lid was faulty, wouldn't stay on. And rocked from side to side. So i live chat and they tried to send me a whole new unit. I talked them into just sending new lid, she overnighted it and THATS WAS ALL IT WAS. So phew,

One more thing at first I didn't like the silver, for one it shows it's imperfections more than the grey. That's a definite, but now I like it better. shit looks crazzzzzy classy. Def the classiest of the 3,

To be clear, they knew you'd taken it apart and moved the coil? If so, that is Magic-Flight quality customer service, and that is the highest compliment I can give.

 

[tufftitty]

First of all, when I said slightly damp qtip I meant with water. There was material everywhere. Inside, and directly on and underneath the coil (in the ceramic frame like thing), the big open area where the mesh vents are, was coated in dark brown dust. Both sides of the glass bowl pieces has gunk all on em

And of course I didn't tell them that shit, that's like talking to the police. It's a no no haha

I was careful to put a brand new screen before I sent back, to cover for the inside being clean-ish.

 

[fogbank]

Well, I have to respectfully disagree...I believe coil position is most certainly a significant factor.

However, lining up the ceramic parts properly seemed to improve the airflow.

Again, just my belief. I'm no engineer.

EDIT: Yes! Don't mess with your coil if you have any doubts about how to manipulate it.

Well you may be right, and perhaps I'm incorrectly conflating my combustion experience with the operating temperatures of the unit. It is possible that the coil position does affect temperature, but my combustion events were caused by misalignment of the components and not the temperature of the coil.

I also suspect the second screen I put in the unit. The combustion started when I put the new screen in, and I have not combusted since I replaced that new screen. I did remove it, clean it, and re-insert it between combustion events #2 and #3, so I don't think the problem was debris or the position of the screen. I suspect misalignment of the metal plate or the o-ring around the screen caused my combustion events. I suspect they became misaligned when I changed the screen.

Much like my suspicions regarding the main cause of combustion for the T1, I don't believe that the load is actually being brought up to combustion temperatures by the hot air. I suspect that small particles of material are coming in contact with something that is VERY HOT (coil?), which results in an ember that can travel, during the users draw, into the load, sparking further combustion.

 

[WildChild]

Well you may be right, and perhaps I'm incorrectly conflating my combustion experience with the operating temperatures of the unit. It is possible that the coil position does affect temperature, but my combustion events were caused by misalignment of the components and not the temperature of the coil.

I also suspect the second screen I put in the unit. The combustion started when I put the new screen in, and I have not combusted since I replaced that new screen. I did remove it, clean it, and re-insert it between combustion events #2 and #3, so I don't think the problem was debris or the position of the screen. I suspect misalignment of the metal plate or the o-ring around the screen caused my combustion events. I suspect they became misaligned when I changed the screen.

Much like my suspicions regarding the main cause of combustion for the T1, I don't believe that the load is actually being brought up to combustion temperatures by the hot air. I suspect that small particles of material are coming in contact with something that is VERY HOT (coil?), which results in an ember that can travel, during the users draw, into the load, sparking further combustion.

That all makes a lot of sense. Appreciate that information.

My theory was that because I moved the coil closer to the ceramic top plate, the whole assembly got hotter via closer contact to the heat source...kind of like moving closer to a campfire...

I may be WAY off in thinking it's that simple?

 

[mitchgo61]

First of all, when I said slightly damp qtip I meant with water. There was material everywhere. Inside, and directly on and underneath the coil (in the ceramic frame like thing), the big open area where the mesh vents are, was coated in dark brown dust. Both sides of the glass bowl pieces has gunk all on em.

Wow. Sounds like your o-ring was seriously deficient. That much debris shouldn't have gotten inside.

 

[tufftitty]

Wow. Sounds like your o-ring was seriously deficient. That much debris shouldn't have gotten inside.

So listen to this, the new, I just noticed that the screen seemed smaller? I checked it against the ones I had and it's the same size? Bigger bowl? So I took it out and I noticed that I can see the oring more in one area than another previously it was tucked away a lot more ??? Think I need to open it up and check the ring AND NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE while I'm in there

 

[pakalolo]

And of course I didn't tell them that shit, that's like talking to the police. It's a no no haha

I was careful to put a brand new screen before I sent back, to cover for the inside being clean-ish.

Well that's disappointing. What's that word for violating a warranty, breaking the product, then making a warranty claim?

 

[1_gr8_underdog]

Made it to page 51. I ordered a second battery, ext. charger, and a car charger. So I should have everything I need for extended use. I will finish reading the rest of the thread over the weekend. But as for tonight, I'm finished. In a fair amount of pain, can't sleep. So I'm off to medicate and dream of my new FF. Thanks everybody for the good read.

 

[vapin baby boomer]

Thank you all. A week ago I decided to purchase a new vaporizer. Previous experience included a MFLB and a cheap pen clone that usually combusted. After years of Marlboros, harsh pipes and even smoking tars and residue during dry times, I have a fairy mild case of COPD. The firefly is fantastic. The coolness of the vapor is incredible. Only used it twice so far and after reading this entire thread, did not have much trouble "getting it". For those expecting thick clouds that give you a kick in your lungs, this might not be the unit for you. If you are a non-tobacco smoker or somebody who has sensitive lungs, you will love this thing. Usually I don't know if I get a hit on it because it's almost "refrigerated", but then I proceed to blow out a very nice cloud and get very medicated. Would still be trying to figure it out if not for you guys. Thanks again and props to the Firefly company for having their act together.

 

[mitchgo61]

Thank you all. A week ago I decided to purchase a new vaporizer. Previous experience included a MFLB and a cheap pen clone that usually combusted. After years of Marlboros, harsh pipes and even smoking tars and residue during dry times, I have a fairy mild case of COPD. The firefly is fantastic. The coolness of the vapor is incredible. Only used it twice so far and after reading this entire thread, did not have much trouble "getting it". For those expecting thick clouds that give you a kick in your lungs, this might not be the unit for you. If you are a non-tobacco smoker or somebody who has sensitive lungs, you will love this thing. Usually I don't know if I get a hit on it because it's almost "refrigerated", but then I proceed to blow out a very nice cloud and get very medicated. Would still be trying to figure it out if not for you guys. Thanks again and props to the Firefly company for having their act together.

Welcome to the FF Club! Glad it's working for you. You can get thick, lung-bursting clouds if you try (not suggesting it's the best way to vape, just that the FF is more than capable of producing that kind of vapor). It requires a bit more button-holding, and making sure you are pulling fast enough to hit the resistance point. As you refine your technique you'll find that you have a wide variety of options with the FF.

 

[vapin baby boomer]

Welcome to the FF Club! Glad it's working for you. You can get thick, lung-bursting clouds if you try (not suggesting it's the best way to vape, just that the FF is more than capable of producing that kind of vapor). It requires a bit more button-holding, and making sure you are pulling fast enough to hit the resistance point. As you refine your technique you'll find that you have a wide variety of options with the FF.

Thanks Mitch. I've been following your story from the very beginning. Now that you have had all three colors, which do you like the best and do you think there is a substantial difference in the way all three have performed? What will you do if the red one also combusts? Does anybody have the AC adapter and can that be used as a plugin while your vaping if your battery is out? I have found that an air duster is a great first step when cleaning.