The Eighteen Millimeter Killer by Good Vibes Boro

Perfect_Speed4069

I am the beetle in a box that only you can see
Bit confused, pretty sure you only heat the sides on the EMK, no?

Wasn't the other heating technique mentioned for the Submarine device, which is like a sticky brick where you need to inhale with the flame in the intake?
It's me getting confused. I read the stuff about balls being for diffusion not for heating, and because I wasnt aware of any balls with the Sub, thought it referred to the EMK. Ignore me. - sorry
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I've been doing it wrong all this time: I've been heating the EMK from the sides, bathing the whole device in flame until it shines, and assuming the balls are acting like battery (like the many TRWW TEDs) - rather than as a direct draw device.
No, I think with the EMK you'd soak the whole cap or at least the top half. Are you referring to also soaking the stem? I was talking about the heat intake for the Submarine. You could soak that one, too, I suppose but the glass is thinner, etc, and I think you'd still have to heat direct as well.
My method works and I've been very pleased with the results, although I've no doubt I'm using a lot more butane to achieve this. I wonder if I'm putting the device under unnecessary stress as a result of this total, sustained heating?
Those stems are pretty thick boro, I'd think they would be fine.
Any thoughts?
That's encouraging, I also rotate whilst heating the sides of the ball section. Feels like there's some different possible approaches to this which reminds me of the discussions surrounding the "correct" way to heat a Camouflet Convector. Some come in from the sides, and others come in from the top. Interesting.
Sorry, I was confusing. I meant the Submarine.
Bit confused, pretty sure you only heat the sides on the EMK, no?

Wasn't the other heating technique mentioned for the Submarine device, which is like a sticky brick where you need to inhale with the flame in the intake?
Yes. Sorry for the confusion!
 

Perfect_Speed4069

I am the beetle in a box that only you can see
No, I think with the EMK you'd soak the whole cap or at least the top half. Are you referring to also soaking the stem? I was talking about the heat intake for the Submarine. You could soak that one, too, I suppose but the glass is thinner, etc, and I think you'd still have to heat direct as well.

Those stems are pretty thick boro, I'd think they would be fine.


Sorry, I was confusing. I meant the Submarine.

Yes. Sorry for the confusion!
Shall we all agree to delete the last few posts? I appear to have shattered sense until a thousand shards and rearranged them into a confusing kaleidoscope. This was a great thread up until then.

( Irony being I wasn't even baked at the time.)
 

dimmusp

Well-Known Member
Perfect_Speed4069 did a good explanation here thank you! There is 2 stem options for the 18mm Killer that I sell which are ones that use metal capsules and ones that use basket screens to hold the bud. All you need for a complete 18mm Killer set is the 18mm Killer cap which comes with a metal clip and one of the 2 stem options that I mentioned above. I keep the stems and 18mm Killer caps listed separately so people can build their own kits. Sorry for the confusion!
Is there a compatible stem with a glass screen, so that you can have an all-glass air and vapor path?
 
dimmusp,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Is there a compatible stem with a glass screen, so that you can have an all-glass air and vapor path?

Yes, the WPA from lamart would work, I also have an old one from 420 EDC that also had glass honeycomb screen, but I'm not sure if they make them anymore? I really prefer to use a screen though for better extraction, but I have not really tried yet using a chunkier grind with no screen in anything yet... GVB has the pinch male stems, you could probably load chunky enough or a whole nug on the spikes instead of having them hold the steel mesh screen...
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
you inspired me to try. Hand tore some nugs in my capsule stem, using the pinch to hold the nugs. I had to mess around to get the timing right, but I declare much success :leaf:

Oh yeah I don't have the capsule stems, load would be a little further from the heater than I think? I'm talking about the full regular stems, that have pinches in the male joint to hold a flat screen instead of using rimmed baskets at the tip, plenty of options!

Edit to Add: however there appear to be no more killers available for sale and none on the way currently so not a new option now
 
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El Duderino

The Dude abides.
@GoodVibesBoro was so kind to sell me his personal EMK, since they were sold out in the shop. I also bought a stem/WPA that can be used with both capsules and a screen.

So far, I've only tried the capsule and heated the EMK for 24 seconds with the Big Shot and then vaped it immediately without waiting. The capsule can be cleared in one hit, and I don't think reheating is worth it. The vapor is very dense, milky, and flavorful, and it's cooled perfectly by the marbles in the WPA and the water piece.

I experimented a bit with longer heat-up times, up to 30 seconds, but then the AVB was very close to combustion and the flavor wasn't as good. I think the 24 seconds that GVB recommends is pretty spot on.




I'm looking forward to more experiments! :science:
 
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Perfect_Speed4069

I am the beetle in a box that only you can see
Thankyou @invertedisdead and @Shit Snacks. I've tried boiling water, regular washing up liquid, and some UK foaming glass cleaner (that you've never heard of, from a now defunct hardware chain) that rescued many previous pieces with hard to reach deposits/marks. I'll take your advice, but at £40/$50 a litre, Simple Green isn't a cheap option, is it?
 

tinctorus

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Thankyou @invertedisdead and @Shit Snacks. I've tried boiling water, regular washing up liquid, and some UK foaming glass cleaner (that you've never heard of, from a now defunct hardware chain) that rescued many previous pieces with hard to reach deposits/marks. I'll take your advice, but at £40/$50 a litre, Simple Green isn't a cheap option, is it?
I just used a torch and a TON of heat
Mine were all dirty from dropping dabs they the top holes and having the reclaim sit in there
 

Octavia

No thoughts, head empty
Thankyou @invertedisdead and @Shit Snacks. I've tried boiling water, regular washing up liquid, and some UK foaming glass cleaner (that you've never heard of, from a now defunct hardware chain) that rescued many previous pieces with hard to reach deposits/marks. I'll take your advice, but at £40/$50 a litre, Simple Green isn't a cheap option, is it?
Wow where is it £40 per litre? Looked on their UK site and the concentrate was listed at £17.50/L which is still a lot more than the US ($11/gal at a hardware store), but not as much of a daylight robbery.
 

Cheebsy

Microbe minion
Thankyou @invertedisdead and @Shit Snacks. I've tried boiling water, regular washing up liquid, and some UK foaming glass cleaner (that you've never heard of, from a now defunct hardware chain) that rescued many previous pieces with hard to reach deposits/marks. I'll take your advice, but at £40/$50 a litre, Simple Green isn't a cheap option, is it?
You can get it much cheaper if you go direct to the UK distributor.


Edit @Octavia just beat me to it lol.
 

Perfect_Speed4069

I am the beetle in a box that only you can see
You can get it much cheaper if you go direct to the UK distributor.


Edit @Octavia just beat me to it lol.
Thankyou both. The very expensive spray was on AMZN (I forget we can post links here sometimes). I now see they have a huge roster of products and buying direct is a good shout. ~£20/l feels a lot more palatable.
 
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