The Chinese SJK Induction Heater and The VapCap

@felon167inc Yep, that definitely sounds like the relay. Exact same symptoms as mine.

I wonder what your seller would say of you closed your email with.... and it overheated and started a fire in my house. The fire marshals are determining if your Dental Heater was the cause of the fire.

Albeit, we are not using it 'in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations". That ALWAYS got me out of trouble when I was a manufacturer. LOL

Here are the relays I bought.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-5pcs-HK4100F-DC5V-SHG-JRC-21F-DC-5V-Volt-Power-Relay-HUIKE-Relay/371848972016?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

To find the relays elsewhere, search "HK4100F-DC5V-SHG".

These are the same ones as the original. It is possible there was a bad batch and replacing it with the same will be fine. The other possibility is that the relay is over-tasked and will fail again. If that's the case, a stronger replacement may be required. I will find out as I have 3 (2 with replaced relays) and my fan almost never stops. I chain smoke pot and this thing almost never stops running.

@-dab8- Did you try holding the VapCap right next to the wall like I suggested? If it works like that, it's a very simple fix to make it right. I have one doing what you described right now. Let me know if that is the case. I'll post how to fix it.

Also, I believe I have solved the mystery of the wisp of vapor that escapes sometimes.

I had one cap that was really loose. In fact, so loose, that it kept slipping off the tip when I inserted it into the heater. At least, I THOUGHT is was slipping off. It was not.

I set the induction heater up on blocks so my VapCap was inserted with the cap pointing UP. Not straight up but about 45 to 70 degrees. I was totally surprised when I inserted the VapCap into the induction heater and the cap immediately jumped off the tip???? What the fuck??? I did this experiment over and over and have come to a conclusion....

The induction heater must generate some kind of force that causes a build up of pressure under the cap. Perhaps in the weed, itself. I'll have to try it empty. I have not tried that yet (just thought of it as I was typing). I searched to find some reference to induction heating creating pressure but I couldn't find anything.

Over and over I would put the VC into the heater and watch the cap slowly push off.

It's not jumping off from the click.

It starts as soon as you put it in the heater and slowly pushes the cap off. If I press the cap against the back of the top hat and reseal the cap and then pull it away again, it slowly pushes right off again.

At first, I thought it was creating a magnetic field that was pushing the stainless cap off the Ti tip. And, that may still be the case. However, I am going with the 'pressure' theory for now because it also explains the little wisp of vapor that we have seen.

I'll do some more testing and see what I can come up with.
 

-dab8-

Dyna-saur
@-dab8- Did you try holding the VapCap right next to the wall like I suggested? If it works like that, it's a very simple fix to make it right. I have one doing what you described right now. Let me know if that is the case. I'll post how to fix it.

Also, I believe I have solved the mystery of the wisp of vapor that escapes sometimes.

I had one cap that was really loose. In fact, so loose, that it kept slipping off the tip when I inserted it into the heater. At least, I THOUGHT is was slipping off. It was not.

I set the induction heater up on blocks so my VapCap was inserted with the cap pointing UP. Not straight up but about 45 to 70 degrees. I was totally surprised when I inserted the VapCap into the induction heater and the cap immediately jumped off the tip???? What the fuck??? I did this experiment over and over and have come to a conclusion....

The induction heater must generate some kind of force that causes a build up of pressure under the cap. Perhaps in the weed, itself. I'll have to try it empty. I have not tried that yet (just thought of it as I was typing). I searched to find some reference to induction heating creating pressure but I couldn't find anything.

Over and over I would put the VC into the heater and watch the cap slowly push off.

It's not jumping off from the click.

It starts as soon as you put it in the heater and slowly pushes the cap off. If I press the cap against the back of the top hat and reseal the cap and then pull it away again, it slowly pushes right off again.

At first, I thought it was creating a magnetic field that was pushing the stainless cap off the Ti tip. And, that may still be the case. However, I am going with the 'pressure' theory for now because it also explains the little wisp of vapor that we have seen.

I'll do some more testing and see what I can come up with.
Haven’t had a chance yet, I’ll definitely give it a shot Friday. Glad to know there is a fix for it. I’m thinking you have to be correct, because why else would the metal pen cap near the top keep it working?

And that’s wild about the pressure in the caps. Actually super excited to hear we aren’t sucking in o-ring fumes.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@felon167inc Yep, that definitely sounds like the relay. Exact same symptoms as mine.

I wonder what your seller would say of you closed your email with.... and it overheated and started a fire in my house. The fire marshals are determining if your Dental Heater was the cause of the fire.

Albeit, we are not using it 'in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations". That ALWAYS got me out of trouble when I was a manufacturer. LOL

Here are the relays I bought.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-5pcs-HK4100F-DC5V-SHG-JRC-21F-DC-5V-Volt-Power-Relay-HUIKE-Relay/371848972016?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

To find the relays elsewhere, search "HK4100F-DC5V-SHG".

These are the same ones as the original. It is possible there was a bad batch and replacing it with the same will be fine. The other possibility is that the relay is over-tasked and will fail again. If that's the case, a stronger replacement may be required. I will find out as I have 3 (2 with replaced relays) and my fan almost never stops. I chain smoke pot and this thing almost never stops running.

Let us try to pinpoint the issue the relays are facing ...

1 ) The relays .What exactly do they control each one of them ?

2 ) What type are they ,pin-out wise . DPST ? ,DPDT ? or SPDT ?

For the contacts to weld together -thus the relay gets " stuck " on NO ( Normally Open ) position -
there are two basic causes :

a ) Either there's a very high current spike / surge .A fast discharging
(= > no resistor in series ) large cap can do that .
Or a large coil of some sort ( i.e from a motor or a transformer ) giving high kickback
inductive current ( => protection diodes are missing ).
So ,either a large capacitive or a large inductive load can weld together
a relay's contacts.That's the most probable case.

b ) Or ,if the load is " resistive " ,
then it involves a high input current for a prolonged period of time .
That also means that the device is most probably driven out of specs
(and that any overload protection is missing ) thus
excessive current ( more than the relays rated )
is causing the contacts to weld together.

That case can cause a fire ,actually.
But I really doubt it that this is the case.
 

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
I wonder how much different this IH is to the SJK, it is about twice the price;
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130W-De...318958&hash=item1ca63e6c44:g:~yAAAOSwQqdavJ7Z
s-l64.jpg

s-l64.jpg

It comes with a removeable power cable and an Allen key, I wonder what for?
 

-dab8-

Dyna-saur
@Hackerman got to play with the induction heater a bit more today.

It seems to care less about being held near any of the sides, and more to be activated when something is near the rim of the entrance.

Does that fall into the realm of might be fixed by the tutorial you mentioned or is my unit just crazy?
 
@Hackerman got to play with the induction heater a bit more today.

It seems to care less about being held near any of the sides, and more to be activated when something is near the rim of the entrance.

Does that fall into the realm of might be fixed by the tutorial you mentioned or is my unit just crazy?

Absolutely....

Check out the very first post in this thread. Look at the first picture and notice how there are actually 2 coils inside. The first one, closer to the rim, is shiny brass colored. The second one is about 3 or 4 times as thick and it more white in color.

The first coil is the sensor and the second one is the heater.

So, yes, it makes sense the outer edge would activate it.

In that same set of pictures, you'll see a blue rectangular shaped component with a small screw on the top, located near the smd proximity chip on the circuit board. That is the adjustable pot that controls the proximity sensor (I think LOL).

I have a unit that won't activate unless I touch the side wall so I will be testing this to make sure it works.

UNPLUG THE UNIT... TURN THE POWER SWITCH ON AND THEN OFF. Hopefully, this will discharge that giant capacitor. Be VERY careful around that cap.

Remove the 4 screws and separate the cover (be careful, there are wires connecting).

With the unit situated, with the base flat and the top on it's side, you should be able to plug it in and operate it.

Plug it in, turn it on.

Insert the VapCap directly into the center of the tophat and SLOWLY turn the screw on the pot, one way or the other about 1/2 turn.

When the unit turns on, you hit the sweet spot. Test it a few times to make sure it's sweet and reassemble as required.

Whenever this unit is open... WATCH THAT CAPACITOR. Don'r touch the exposed contacts.

I will give this a try today or tomorrow and let you know how it works.
 
I will go back through the thread and find your link....
I am considering buying another unit with the refund, but maybe I should just fix this one and put the $ to something else...

EDIT: I just got a pair of relays sent through so for now will fix this

Will put the saved $$ into a PS MINI or possibly the double price unit @LesPlenty found above...

I own 3 of the SJK and a Pipe's Jarhead. Can never have too many induction heaters. Probably should have at least one for each VapCap. You don't want your VapCaps getting jealous of each other. LOL

Hey guys, has anyone put an OG in the IH?

What does OG mean?
 

Ricardo

Well-Known Member
Thanks. While I'm here, does anyone think we're actually combusting a little bit in the IH? I never get that orange flash that sometimes happens using a torch, or that disgusting ashtray toke, but sometimes the ABV is very dark :huh:
 
Don't heat it as long.

Or, move the VC in more or out more of the hole.

No offense to VC but I NEVER respect the click. I know when my load is ready. I am pretty good about the click on the first hit from a cold cap. However, after that, I seldom get a cool-down click. I am pretty much a chain smoker so the cool down very seldom actually happens.

And, keep in mind, the further IN the VC is placed, the longer it will take to click. If you want a slightly lighter colored end, just don't place it so far into the hole. The end of the cap (with the clicker) will heat up faster and the click will come sooner.

Just like using a lighter.... there is a touch to the induction heaters.
 

Ricardo

Well-Known Member
Maybe only hit it 8 times instead of 10.:tup: You do go quite a bit further than the click, don`t you.
I always used to go One Mississippi, two Mississippi, three STOP when using a torch but my counting doesn't coincide with the IH's clicks and I sometimes lose track. Also, when I lace the weed with kief it does need a bit longer (and sometimes stir it up). Living on the edge, eh?
Oh, and I do keep that 7.5mm Cork in the top-hat :tup:
 
Ricardo,
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You can DEFINITELY combust in one of these IH's.

Sometimes, I'll stick it in the hole and then get involved in something I am reading on the screen and I forget it's in the heater. LOL It will burn like a cigarette. LOL
 

Ricardo

Well-Known Member
Right, but it's more charring the load than burning it, don't you think? I've never seen real smoke and never tasted Ash. Just wondering where the line is.
PS Months back I gave my weed guy an "M for a friend" . The other day he was round for "a cup of tea" and he tried some of his own product in the NonaVong, heated in the Chinese IH, filtered through the 'Lil Chinese Bubbler and boy, was he impressed. This is a guy who has been around weed all his life, but joints, bongs, combustion (I suspect he combusts in the M - I also think my reduced chamber size is very little for a guy with his tolerance) but he was genuinely impressed by the flavour, the clean vapor and how easy it is on his lungs. Just I got a real kick out of showing a veteran toker something new :)
 

vapcat

Active Member
Hey guys, something to add to the mystery of the wispy vapor during heat up:
I was thinking ‘I don’t want to waste this goodness so I should try toke it up’, I inhaled while it was heating up and realised that the vapor isn’t affected, so it’s not seeping from the inside but coming from the outside somewhere. I read the theory in an earlier post about it being the o-ring, maybe... need to look or smell closer. My other theory is that it is goodness stuck to the outside of the cap or between the fins that’s vaporising. But of kief or sticky residue on your fingers gets to the cap and then vapes away...
 

vapcat

Active Member
If it’s material inside the cap then the vapor shouldn’t flow out when I toke while heating, I should be drawing it inside and to my lungs... but that’s not the case. when I’m toking and trying to draw the vapor in, it still just wisps away regardless of how hard i suck. So I’m pretty sure it’s on the outside of the cap and outside of the suction that I’m creating. Just had a couple more caps (so this is even hard to articulate) but I did keep a closer eye on the o-rings... I don’t think it’s coming from that. Really hope not anyway hehe
 

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
when I’m toking and trying to draw the vapor in, it still just wisps away regardless of how hard i suck
I get you, articulated well. :tup:
I use a 7.5mm cork to stop the Vapcap inserting too far into the IH, the O-rings on mine are outside the IH when heating and I get the whisp`s on first heat up so doubt it is the O-rings degrading.
The mystery continues, fun isn`t it, chasing Casper!
Edit; The only time it whisps is when a filled vapcap is in it, never whisps vapor when heating a knife etc.
 
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