Zak McKracken
Well-Known Member
30 Euro game changer...Awesome,made me buy a new vapcap!Any news when Dynavap's version will be out?
The Chinese SJK Induction Heater and The VapCap
- Thread starter Hackerman
- Start date
-dab8-
Dyna-saur
@Hackerman i would LOVE detailed instructions on how to fix the sensor you described. I figured others might be interested so I’d pose it here, but if not, DM would be fine. Thanks in advance!
Mono Loco
Well-Known Member
Well, because I can't decide on which IH to buy, I went with this affordable SKJ as a interim solution! Unfortunately, even though I opted for the 110v variant on the sellers drop-down menu, I received one labeled as 220v. I contacted the seller and was told that a 110v unit would be sent out as soon as more came in stock. BUT ... I wonder if I can use this 220v one or not?
I presume that if a unit, any electrical appliance, were designed to operate at 110v and it were fed 220v, it would "fry" ... poof, smoke, stinky, etc. But if a device was designed for 220v and fed 110v, I, with my lack of electrical knowledge, am inclined to believe that there might be little risk of frying, or danger, in general, but that the device simply wouldn't operate up to its potential. With that mindset, I tried it. I simply stuck a screwdriver in the chamber and it did get pretty hot after a few seconds. That was the extent of my basic test - it "worked" ... at least in basic principle. Still, I am not at ease with using it for an actual session. I envision something not being able to get fully powered and therefore having some touch-n-go arching taking place ... something that can be unstable and such. So, to use, or not to use, the 220v unit with our USA 110v mains ... what say ye? Perhaps there's a simply modification, like a swap of a single component on the PCB, that can modify and convert the unit. (????)
I presume that if a unit, any electrical appliance, were designed to operate at 110v and it were fed 220v, it would "fry" ... poof, smoke, stinky, etc. But if a device was designed for 220v and fed 110v, I, with my lack of electrical knowledge, am inclined to believe that there might be little risk of frying, or danger, in general, but that the device simply wouldn't operate up to its potential. With that mindset, I tried it. I simply stuck a screwdriver in the chamber and it did get pretty hot after a few seconds. That was the extent of my basic test - it "worked" ... at least in basic principle. Still, I am not at ease with using it for an actual session. I envision something not being able to get fully powered and therefore having some touch-n-go arching taking place ... something that can be unstable and such. So, to use, or not to use, the 220v unit with our USA 110v mains ... what say ye? Perhaps there's a simply modification, like a swap of a single component on the PCB, that can modify and convert the unit. (????)
Gray Area
Well-Known Member
You could get a 220v to 110v inverter... you'd plug the IH into it, and it into the wall. It'll convert the voltage safely.
I have one that works the other way round so I can use my 110v nano plugged into a 220v uk wall socket
Although it might cost you more than the IH
djboby
Member
There is no Need for inverters It will work perfectlyYou could get a 220v to 110v inverter... you'd plug the IH into it, and it into the wall. It'll convert the voltage safely.
I have one that works the other way round so I can use my 110v nano plugged into a 220v uk wall socket
Although it might cost you more than the IH
Just connected to mains
Hackerman
User
@-dab8-
No problem pal. It's a pretty easy process. I am going from memory so if I miss something please feel free to ask.
Remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the unit and separate the halves. Be careful because there are wires connecting the top and bottom halves. Look at the pictures on the first page of this thread to see what to expect when you take it apart.
Now, locate the potentiometer. It is the light blue, rectangular shaped component with the small screw on the top. It is located near the center of the board next to the orange relay. Next to the poorly soldered chip that was obviously an afterthought. If you can't find it, let me know. From looking at the pictures, it's the only thing on the board with an adjustment screw.
Now, plug in the heater (be careful) and stick the VapCap in the opening. Next, turn the screw about 1/2 turn either direction to see if the heater clicks on. From there on, adjustment should be pretty clear.
Let me know if you run into problems and I'll provide more details.
No problem pal. It's a pretty easy process. I am going from memory so if I miss something please feel free to ask.
Remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the unit and separate the halves. Be careful because there are wires connecting the top and bottom halves. Look at the pictures on the first page of this thread to see what to expect when you take it apart.
Now, locate the potentiometer. It is the light blue, rectangular shaped component with the small screw on the top. It is located near the center of the board next to the orange relay. Next to the poorly soldered chip that was obviously an afterthought. If you can't find it, let me know. From looking at the pictures, it's the only thing on the board with an adjustment screw.
Now, plug in the heater (be careful) and stick the VapCap in the opening. Next, turn the screw about 1/2 turn either direction to see if the heater clicks on. From there on, adjustment should be pretty clear.
Let me know if you run into problems and I'll provide more details.
-dab8-
Dyna-saur
Will definitely give this a try, thank you!
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
CRAZY MONKEY,
Higher than a kite during the dazes of BEN FRANKLIN!
BLING or FUNCTION
FACT or FAITH
RICH or POOR
SEEK KNOWLEDGE
STAY IGNORANT
CANNABIS or MILK
Why is CANNABIS Prohibited In parts of the PALE BLUE DOT?
STUPIDITY
SORRY I Was TRIPING (FLASH BACK)!
Where was I?
The INDUCTION LIGHTER?
One day maybe VAPCAP will offer one?
I tried some? (Too small 4 a cap?)
I guess you need 2 create one 4 one?
CIGARETTES R the FOCUS?
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Mono Loco
Well-Known Member
Hmmm ... well, my trial sort of confirmed this, but Hackerman's post #272 of "First thing..... look on the bottom and make sure the sticker says 110v. If it says 220v you are SOL." confuses me as it seems so contradictory. Electricity is basic stuff, I know ... but I guess I just don't have the right mix of left-brain/right brain to understand it - it scares me (and having a pacemaker makes me need to be cautious ... if I get zapped and die, my wife would KILL me!).
rouxdy
Well-Known Member
djboby
Member
I had two 220V labeled SJK induction heaters that I studied and repaired. I posted on the forum even the schema. In fact, they are made for 110V. Those that are labeled with 220V are actually those 110V to which some components have been changed. At 220V they have a limited operating time after which they start to break down the components in turn. Therefore, those labeled with 220V can be used without any problem at 110V. There is no risk and the operation is perfect in the parameters. No change is required. Good luck!
Mono Loco
Well-Known Member
Thank you, Sir!
Thank you for sharing all this interesting, informative stuff with us. In your photos, I noticed the resistor at position R4 (is that a resistor? LOL) is blue with different color bands than the one shown in Hackerman's photos - his is white with gold bands. Is yours the OEM part, or did you change that component, too? The colors denote specific values, right? What are those values and how might the difference between the two different ones affect the operation of the unit?I bought the transistors (SPP11N80C3) from a local store but can also be found on ebay or on other sites. I also replaced the C2-22nF capacitor. Unfortunately I did not find it at 2000V so I put one at 1600V. It was necessary to replace the diodes D1-D4 with a rectifier bridge because two of the diodes were burned. Now everything is okay and the heater works perfectly. I am trying to replace the microcontroller because the original is incorrectly programmed.
edit: Uh-oh ... I was naughty and apparently posted back-to-back. I'm such an amateur - sorry 'bout dat!!!!
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djboby
Member
I didn't change that resistor. The resistor in the Hackeman picture are the same, 100 ohm. It use a different notation. Only the tolerance vary but is not important.
In Hackerman's picture the resistor is 100ohm with 5% tolerance (4 color bands - Brown Black Brown Gold). In my picture is 100ohm with 1% tolerance (5 color bands - Brown Black Black Black Brown).
Zak McKracken
Well-Known Member
is this the same at amazon ? ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0114AD8TO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_BtqqCbT5ZMFZS )
how it work , how long it take to heat up the vapcap and it does a good job doing it ? , thanks
Zak McKracken
Well-Known Member
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I quit using the VAPCAP due to being inside mostly?
Do you think one day they will offer a INDUCTION ligther?
I like the small one hitter micro style of the VAPCAP but it is hard to use where flames are not allowed?
The INDUCTION unit you posted maybe the answer to my problem?
started@52
Well-Known Member
Search: PSM Portside Mini, Fluxer, and induction heaters for a portable rechargeable unit.
rouxdy
Well-Known Member
I own three of these. One I bought new, and two I bought used from the classifieds section here...
I've had to adjust the activation sensor on two of the units but other than that they work great. They do look a bit clinical... that's why I bought the extras... I'm going to break them down and install it in a cigar box.
I also have a Flux Deluxe and it's a good piece of portable kit. I'd love to see something like it that didn't require you to push the Vapcap down on to a switch.
I've had to adjust the activation sensor on two of the units but other than that they work great. They do look a bit clinical... that's why I bought the extras... I'm going to break them down and install it in a cigar box.
I also have a Flux Deluxe and it's a good piece of portable kit. I'd love to see something like it that didn't require you to push the Vapcap down on to a switch.
Hackerman
User
I also agree that the tactile switch is a weak point of all the portable designs. I love the proximity switch on these units.
I also like the way this unit heats the VapCap better than any of the large coil units. I had all 3 of Pipe's models and 2 I made myself and none of them provided the suburb flavor that I get out of these SJK heaters. They are a little slower and colder so it heats up a little more thoroughly or something. All I know is, the taste is way better on these.
I also like the way this unit heats the VapCap better than any of the large coil units. I had all 3 of Pipe's models and 2 I made myself and none of them provided the suburb flavor that I get out of these SJK heaters. They are a little slower and colder so it heats up a little more thoroughly or something. All I know is, the taste is way better on these.
I bought the insert from ddavemods that fits in this IH. It’s a great add on but I had to modify mine. The piece comes with a honeycomb style bottom with small holes for the heat to travel through. This took about 4-5 or even more heat cycles from the SJK to get the click going.
I decided to break open the bottom so it’s completely open. Basically just holds my Dynavap for me perfectly. Now my Dynavap clicks about two or three seconds into the second heat cycle. Loving this IH so far. Just wish it didn’t click during the heating cycle. Makes it kinda hard to hear the Dynavap click if it occurs at the same time. Anyway to disable this on the IH?
I decided to break open the bottom so it’s completely open. Basically just holds my Dynavap for me perfectly. Now my Dynavap clicks about two or three seconds into the second heat cycle. Loving this IH so far. Just wish it didn’t click during the heating cycle. Makes it kinda hard to hear the Dynavap click if it occurs at the same time. Anyway to disable this on the IH?
I have a 4mm slice of a wine bottle cork in the bottom of mine to keep the Cap off the plastic bottom of the oven and my Vapcap always clicks before the IH times out unless it is freezing cold. (both of my SLK's are/were like this)
Maybe you could try not inserting the cap as far into the IH will help speed up the Vapcap click.
Is it possible with the SJK Induction Heater to make the Vapcap click in one pass and to heat it even more if necessary, and this silently? Or does the Vapcap have to be removed in between, so the heater doesn't turn off? Does a fan make noise in the background all the time?
Ricardo
Well-Known Member
Some people have modded theirs but I need two full cycles (2 x 5 clicks) when heating from cold, then one cycle for the second & third tokes.
I think you're always going to have the "tick-tock" and the cooling fan.
This is my experience