Fesob_31: That doesn't look like it would fit into the musa vape, the coils should be in the ceter, not above the screws, thats's where thew space for the coil is, when you put that wood back, it's going to smush/bend the coils down and short them. You should do something like my spiral that i posted, but just be very careful and mindful of the limited space there is for the coil, i know i have problems with it sometimes. The coil should not be touching anything at all when you put the wood cver back on it. Also I don't see how the current would even flow thought there, it doesn't seem to be connected right from one side to the other, it just seems the coils are just conncted to the same junction. So when you put on a battery it would tell you there is no atomizer.
And to anyone else who would get inspired by my modding tutorial below - you REALLY have to know what you are doing and acknowledge that you are doing it at your own risk and that making a coil for musa is really hard and tricky, you really have to know ohw electricity works and have some good handyman skills. You could break your vape, and you would then bother musa with support and blame it on me that i inspired you...
It might look easty at first glance, but making your own coil for musa is extremely hard to design and do, you have to think of many things to make it right, be careful that it doesn't touch anything, doesn't short itself etc, and basically probably perfectly copy my design. My own coil mod took me hours and days to get it right. And I broke mthose 2 black base o-ring doing all these iteration from wrear and tear of disassembling it so many times.
Here I'm reposting my custom SS coil DNA mod tutorial, so that it comes with all these warning that i worte above:
If you want the smoothest safest best performance you should power your Musa 510 with a DNA mod, and create a special Musa TCR curve. That will give you great temp control for your Musa 510. It's not precise or accurate (because of the musa simplicity and because of the hacky way that TCR is designed), but it's dependable. You can set your desired temperature between 200-315. It's not the real temperature, but if you tune it correctly than 200 will be just not hot enough to vape it, 250 would be like low temp vaping, 300 would be like hightemp vaping. You press the button, wait 1 sec, start inhaling, release the button about 3-5 seconds before you stop inhaling, and you get a good hit. And it will never acidentally combust, unless you set up the TCR curve or ohms wrong.
You will need to make your own stainless stell coil, because the default coil is nicrome which doesn't support TC.
These are some examples of my TCR curves, so you can get the idea how to do it. It's for stainless steel coils. The curves are increasigly more hot. They are tuned for my coil so you will have to figurew out how high you make the step yourself. For example Musa0 material is the coldest, Musa3 is the hottest, that means that for example Musa0's 300°C setting would target a colder temp than Musa3's 300°C setting.
Also if you like my DNA theme design with that cute face mode that you can see on my previous post up there, you can download it
here.
The battery mod in that photo is Lost Vape Thelema Solo 100W DNA with wooden style, I think that is the best match for Musa in both aesthetics and practicality.
Here are the pictures of my journey, my earrly coils as I've iterated the design and coil materials, I'm currecnlty using that final double twisted coil., and man that one is REEEEALY hard to avoid all of the shorts and gets it crammed into that little space, it really has to be percfectly centered or it will touch something:
And here is a picture of my TCR curves, again, you will have tou make and fine tune youw curves based on your material and resistance and coil design, it could be very different from mine, but if it's SS, it shoul look similar, just at a different level on the right side:
And here it is fully assembled on top of my Thelema in its full glory:
