Storing concentrate long term

vap999

Well-Known Member
EVERY silicone container leeches, all of them, or perhaps more precisely, Ive NEVER once in my decade plus search seen one that hasn't. Doesn't matter the brand, doesn't matter the cure claims, doesn't matter if the surface is smooth or rough. Short term like a car ride or a few hours, ok, but id never use silicone for any type of long term or even medium term storage.

All 'silicone' polymers essentially contain ≥30% (as I recall; this is likely low, if anything) silicone 'oil' (non- and partially reacted/polymerized starting molecules). The inherent oil content is what lubricates silicone allowing it to be so flexible. In industries where toxicity is a concern, silicone polymers are mostly only used where there flexibility and transparency are needed (thus, lots of tubing). Even in critical biopharmaceutical and chemical uses, high-end silicone polymer use results in release of some leachates and silicone particulates/globules (but mostly into liquids its in contact with). But with all the silicones, from the single molecules (oil) to solid polymers accepted as very inert and non-toxic (compared to many other plastics), the amounts are not a concern.

So I would presume:
1) All silicone polymers inherently leach (release components into water/solvents) more than most other plastics. With using tubing used for inhalation, only exposed to air flow, this is not a concern. Alsos some concentrate components could leach, diffuse into the silicone polymer.
2) Using silicone containers will result in some leaching/release of liquid-phase silicones into the concentrates. The more solid the concentrates are, the less the concern.

But keep this in context, such as just touching silicone polymer, with its oily phase making it tacky, much like touching shatter (with it tacky too), and you have much more contamination.

I would only use silicone to hold concentrates if the unique flexibilty, ability to be frozen and not get brittle, etc. of silicone polymers is desired or needed. If anything might be considered the best, the most inert and non-leaching, also very strong polymer, its PTFE/Teflon (with PFA nearly as ideal). These polymers are in many respects the opposite of silicones, such as being slippery vs. sticky/tacky; and should be seriously considered for concentrates. However, these polymers are expensive, not cheap like silicone.
 
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If you’re actually concerned about degradation at the 1 week mark in a room temp environment, you are either a mass spectrometer, or your storage area isn’t actually room temp (most of the world calls room temp about 60F to 75F, some places even up close to 85F).
 
ragnorokk,

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
If you’re actually concerned about degradation at the 1 week mark in a room temp environment, you are either a mass spectrometer, or your storage area isn’t actually room temp (most of the world calls room temp about 60F to 75F, some places even up close to 85F).

The majority of the essential oils will be gone after a week at ambient temperature.
 

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
If you’re actually concerned about degradation at the 1 week mark in a room temp environment, you are either a mass spectrometer, or your storage area isn’t actually room temp (most of the world calls room temp about 60F to 75F, some places even up close to 85F).


Not true at all.

High grade live rosins and water hashes are very susceptible to room temps and oxygen. You can a actually see the change visually as some of the terpenes start to evaporate and the concentrate starts to budder up some over the course of a few days.

If you're dealing with shatter or something without many terpenes, agreed, you won't really see a difference.
 

shredder

Well-Known Member
All 'silicone' polymers essentially contain ≥30% (as I recall; this is likely low, if anything) silicone 'oil' (non- and partially reacted/polymerized starting molecules). The inherent oil content is what lubricates silicone allowing it to be so flexible. In industries where toxicity is a concern, silicone polymers are mostly only used where there flexibility and transparency are needed (thus, lots of tubing). Even in critical biopharmaceutical and chemical uses, high-end silicone polymer use results in release of some leachates and silicone particulates/globules (but mostly into liquids its in contact with). But with all the silicones, from the single molecules (oil) to solid polymers accepted as very inert and non-toxic (compared to many other plastics), the amounts are not a concern.

So I would presume:
1) All silicone polymers inherently leach (release components into water/solvents) more than most other plastics. With using tubing used for inhalation, only exposed to air flow, this is not a concern. Alsos some concentrate components could leach, diffuse into the silicone polymer.
2) Using silicone containers will result in some leaching/release of liquid-phase silicones into the concentrates. The more solid the concentrates are, the less the concern.

But keep this in context, such as just touching silicone polymer, with its oily phase making it tacky, much like touching shatter (with it tacky too), and you have much more contamination.

I would only use silicone to hold concentrates if the unique flexibilty, ability to be frozen and not get brittle, etc. of silicone polymers is desired or needed. If anything might be considered the best, the most inert and non-leaching, also very strong polymer, its PTFE/Teflon (with PFA nearly as ideal). These polymers are in many respects the opposite of silicones, such as being slippery vs. sticky/tacky; and should be seriously considered for concentrates. However, these polymers are expensive, not cheap like silicone.

Do you have any links for this info? Not doubting, just looking for factual information.

Google didn't show me much other than the "twist test" to look for fillers in silicone products with the implication that 100% silicone is better than silicone with fillers.

Food grade silicone is said to be inert except for extream conditions in the links I found.
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
Explain how jar tech works.
@Roth you too.

A jar full of something has a small surface area compared to the amount in the jar. A small amount in the jar has a comparatively large surface area, or spread out on parchment for instance, is way more likely to lose moisture.

Also, its my understanding that jar tech usually has a lid on it preventing evaporation and preserving terpenes.
 
Not true at all.

High grade live rosins and water hashes are very susceptible to room temps and oxygen. You can a actually see the change visually as some of the terpenes start to evaporate and the concentrate starts to budder up some over the course of a few days.

If you're dealing with shatter or something without many terpenes, agreed, you won't really see a difference.
Some things can be more harmed by heat or by oxygen than others, no doubt. I truly hadn’t even thought of the hash stuff; microplaned or melted bubble, naturally greasy cultivars, there’s certainly possibility for quick degradation, or at least a consistency change.

I think the 3 factors you mentioned all work hand in hand, and some products are more susceptible to certain factors. I also think that some containers that people are using just aren’t that great. Lots are oversized for their payload and many I’ve used didn’t seem to make a good seal. Proper air tight containers make a big difference just like cooler temps can.
 
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Sick Vape

Solar Dabs
I only get to "store", pretty short time, a gram or so. I reuse a glass container with plastic lid I bought some terped CBD in.
I did not like the plastic lid and the carton/alu inside, so I removed the inside of the lid and lined it with some PTFE foil.
Should be pretty terpene resistant and probably would work for larger containers too.

Otherwise it is just common sense i think. Lower temps slow the degradation. Less oxygen and light too.
 

ensabbahnur

Hash Vacuum
Upgraded Cvault for concentrate storage, the EVault,

https://freshstor.com/product-category/evault/

I knew it was just a matter of time before they made something like this. The only difference I can see is they metal type and the lack of Boveda slot. Im curious as to why they felt they had to change the metal for concentrates beyond, and Im paraphrasing the website here...."because thats whats scientists use" Im also curious as to anyone thats used regular cvaults for concentrates and if they have had any issues or tips. I wonder how they'd hold up to scrapes from ti dabbers?
 

Vape_Or_Die420

Well-Known Member
I don't know about silicone getting in your materials but F silicone because your materials will end up in the silicone. ALL silicone leeches, ALL OF IT, yep.....even that kind by that brand, LEECH! I used to be ALL ABOUT silicone and literally laughed at people using glass......I was an idiot. I took the pepsi challenge and never used silicone for storage again.


For storing pretty much anything a good rule is

Cold + glass + dark
What was the Pepsi challenge?
 
Vape_Or_Die420,

FlyingLow

Team NO SLEEP!
I don't understand the difference?
Is the metal treated with a slick-like coating?
 
FlyingLow,

ensabbahnur

Hash Vacuum
What was the Pepsi challenge?

Just actually testing it out myself with my own material and my own eyes.

Bought a sampling of pretty much every different little silicone container for dabs I could find on the market, no BS over 40 types including the expensive ones and the ones that claim "blah blah blah level of cure" and "blah blah blah level of medical/food grade", put a few dabs worth of moderatly terpy, nondry material in and put them in a box in my closet, checked about a month later and every single one of them, ALL, had absorbed some of the material and many had soaked up the whole amount and "sweated" it to the outside of the container where you could obviously feel something was wrong, like you had rolled the container in your material. If you've ever gone to grab a silicone and its tacky on the outside, it might be drinking your terps!

Then I noticed this has never yet once ever happened with pretty much any material (dabs, food, bolts, water, legos, gypsy tears) that i put in a virtuous glass container.

I used to view silicone as the way to go because it was so versatile and you don't waste material on the container like what can happen with glass sometimes but if you choose the right size container for the job and have the right dabber/tool, these become non issues, as small glass jars are VERY strong and there are plenty of good paddle face tools that can clear the inside curves perfectly.

Never looked back.

I don't understand the difference?
Is the metal treated with a slick-like coating?

Nope, just the type of steel. Once I have a moment I'm going to compare the 2 types and see. You wouldn't want any coating to be a contamination possibility.
 

Sick Vape

Solar Dabs
Nope, just the type of steel. Once I have a moment I'm going to compare the 2 types and see. You wouldn't want any coating to be a contamination possibility.
Great product especially if indestructible is important and for big sizes.

I drew the same conclusion as you after one of my silicone containers got sticky on the outside and the other changed color and got harder in the bottom half. But mine were not specially treated iirc and just 2.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel_soap
Has anybody found a smell/taste difference with stainless steel?
You might not want to store any garlic smelling strains in stainless steel maybe. :D (Not GMO ready)
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
I drew the same conclusion as you after one of my silicone containers got sticky on the outside and the other changed color and got harder in the bottom half. But mine were not specially treated iirc and just 2.

I had the same experience of a sticky silicon container, soaking up terps and remaining sticky ever more.

Just a big no to that shit.
 

CANtalk

Well-Known Member
Interesting topic and I appreciate all the feedback. I'll add mine.

I've been storing 3 grams of concentrates for a year now in a cold storage fridge in the basement (near freezing), all shielded product. I'm a microdoser so it's just taking forever to use it. The live resin is glass stored and the shatter is stored on wax paper in medium strength zip-lock style plastic bags. The shatter is collected together and stored in an additional large heavy duty consumer grade freezer spec zip-lock bag. So far so good here :nod:... though note I haven't tried a number of the newer fresh terpy concentrate options (like sauce, diamonds, badder, rosin, live rosin, etc.) and I'm not a high volume user :2c:.

I have watched the live resin gram I own get a little dryer over the year (visually), but it isn't much visually and still vapes strongly and potently...

Keep the feedback coming.

:peace: :leaf:
 
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Interesting topic and I appreciate all the feedback. I'll add mine.

I've been storing 3 grams of concentrates for a year now in a cold storage fridge in the basement (near freezing), all shielded product. I'm a microdoser so it's just taking forever to use it. The live resin is glass stored and the shatter is stored on wax paper in medium strength zip-lock style plastic bags. The shatter is collected together and stored in an additional large heavy duty consumer grade freezer spec zip-lock bag. So far so good here :nod:... though note I haven't tried a number of the newer fresh terpy concentrate options (like sauce, diamonds, badder, rosin, live rosin, etc.) and I'm not a high volume user :2c:.

I have watched the live resin gram I own get a little dryer over the year (visually), but it isn't much visually and still vapes strongly and potently...

Keep the feedback coming.

:peace: :leaf:
Can I ask more about the glass jar? Is it a plastic top? Does it have a cardboard “gasket” glued in it?
 

CANtalk

Well-Known Member
Can I ask more about the glass jar? Is it a plastic top? Does it have a cardboard “gasket” glued in it?
No, it's the original supplied packaging, a small low-headspace glass container with a hard silicon tight seal lid. The product does not touch the silicon and the silicon seals the lid.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Received my LARGE CVault today. Measurements are exactly as described on the manufacturers website:

https://freshstor.com/shop/large-cvault/

Many older Amazon reviews detail sizing issues, as well as some dents. I’m shocked mine is damage free, and all 3 clips are tight, considering it was shipped with plastic around the bowl, tossed inside a very THIN bubble wrap “Amazon” bag. If you order a steel ball from Amazon, it will come double box wrapped!

This is the 304SS version I bought for flower, this large size looks like it will easily hold an ounce. I would have preferred the 316SS version, but I believe they start at a bigger size, and the large is perfect for my needs.

Is it worth $38 delivered? Material wise, NO. But if in use it keeps the not cheap flower fresh, then YES.

Can’t test for smell leaking, waiting on content delivery. :( But since it has a lid liner like a Mason jar screw lid and the other type of jar with liner and single hinge latch (sorry forgot the name), I believe it should be air tight. Most of this performance would be based on how well the latches hold down an even lid. The two types of jars would probably work just as well, though not light proof and breakable. I use them as well. I also noticed you can get the Mason “Ball” jars that have a lid with a connection that you can connect either a manual suction pump, or to a compatible bag sealers suction. I’m not ready to go that way yet, but it seems like another great, inexpensive solution along the others recommended in this thread.

The lid compartment that holds the Boveda packs, In the large, the (2) 8 gram packs that came with it fit perfectly and don’t have to be folded over for the lid to close as the little paper manual illustrates, I assume folding the packets are necessary for the medium size and down?

BTW: I ordered some of the oxygen absorbing packs, but quickly canceled them once I read that they are NOT individually wrapped, so unless you have an oxygen free place to store them, they will be active and doing their job, but all at once. Solution many post, is to vacuum seal the ones you don’t use. Someday I’m going to breakdown and get a nice vacuum sealer, they seem to have more use then many of my current appliances.

Well good luck on your choices, and STAY FRESH!
 
RustyOldNail,
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