Stink wont stay away?!

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Wierd, iso usually does it for me. Even cleared the smell when I vaped valerian root once and that makes your bong smell like you've been vaping unwashed ass! šŸ˜‚
I have a jar that still smells of Valerian after being empty and washed 4 years ago. Definitely a funky odour!
 
MoltenTiger,

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Get some rubber stopper plugs, fill the piece with water. and drop in an NaDCC tablet (the Milton tabs used to clean baby bottles and such). Leave it overnight, thoroughly rinse it, and then do the iso and salt shake, before one last rinse.

Also, consider using a few drops of alcohol-free Cranberry extract (not juice) in your glass water pieces, and shaking them up for a full inner coating. It will help prevent the vapor from sticking to the glass (the stuff that stays cloudy even after a hot water rinse), so that you only need to give a full hot water rinse, to get the piece shiny, again. I still use iso every few days, for sterility purposes, but a thorough salt and iso treatment is more like a once a week thing.
 

kadjo

Well-Known Member
Powdered Brewery Wash?
This is a brewery kettle cleaner intended to clean parts of the Kettle that are hard to reach. Works great on glass and SS. I use it for everything super gentle and effective.

(Obligatory final hot water rinse & shake works here too.)

Check Amazon.
 
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iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
Whenever I combust I add a few drops of essential oil like peppermint or eucalyptus when I'm cleaning. Destroys any stank real quick trade-off is you'll be left with a hint of whatever oil you choose.
I was thinking of doing this as a last measure I just didnt wanna get stuck in that loop of I had a mouse problem so I got cats now I have a dog problem so I'm going to go round up some bears lol...
Another thing Iā€™ve used is mustard, yes plain ole yellow mustard (or mustard powder). Add a spoonful of mustard or mustard powder, add hot water, shake and rinse. Let soak if necessary.

So why is it so good at dispelling odors? There is vinegar present in most mustard condiments and mustard seed itself is known as a rubefacient, or a substance that causes the skin to redden because it creates heat. Perhaps those factors in combination with the pungent, powerful, and volatile compounds in mustard seeds themselves helps get rid of stinky stuff.
I am a a fan of mustard does the mustard taste stick?

Update on my status. I've cleaned all my glass to no success. I have one piece soaking in simple green and another in vinegar. 1 lbs Pbw and a gallon of medical grade iso and 2 new glass pieces are on their way home oh and a couple new sets of cleaning plugs.

EverythingsHazy said:
Get some rubber stopper plugs, fill the piece with water. and drop in an NaDCC tablet (the Milton tabs used to clean baby bottles and such). Leave it overnight, thoroughly rinse it, and then do the iso and salt shake, before one last rinse.

Also, consider using a few drops of alcohol-free Cranberry extract (not juice) in your glass water pieces, and shaking them up for a full inner coating. It will help prevent the vapor from sticking to the glass (the stuff that stays cloudy even after a hot water rinse), so that you only need to give a full hot water rinse, to get the piece shiny, again. I still use iso every few days, for sterility purposes, but a thorough salt and iso treatment is more like a once a week thing.
I did buy plugs. I will look into baby tabs. Do you taste the cranberry extract?
 
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invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
I was thinking he was talking about washing or soaking in acetone?

Borosilicate glass is one of those most resilient materials around regarding acid and alkali solutions, that's why it's still number one in biological and life science research and lab testing applications. Acetone is just nail polish remover, if it was that caustic it wouldnt come in a cheap plastic bottle.
 

strech

Well-Known Member
I don't think too many folks are cleaning their bongs with hydrofluoric acid.
New glass is bright and sparkling, easy to see through and easy to clean and keep clean. Contrary to popular belief, the surface of the glass is not completely smooth. It has what glass manufacturers call 'lattice' or 'honeycomb' patterns. Under a microscope glass reveals a rougher surface made of peaks and potholes. Organic and inorganic contaminants fill these potholes and react chemically with the glass, firmly bonding to its surface. As a result, glass easily becomes stained and discolored, difficult to see through and difficult to clean and keep clean. The surface of the glass also possesses hydrophilic properties and is over time subjected to a corrosion process that will make its surface rougher and therefore its damage greater, in some cases irreversibly. (reference)

This has great implications on the property owner and any other users of glass, increased costs and efforts in maintenance, renovation or replacement, and in all cases a reduction in the expected performance.

Just as metal rusts, glass is subjected to a corrosion process caused by reactions between the glass surface and gases in the atmosphere. It is commonly associated with moisture or vapor attack through condensation, or reaction with an alkaline solution.

Glass is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts and holds moisture. All glass has a molecular layer of moisture on the surface. When this layer increases because of humidity or rainfall, it can obscure visibility and create a risk to comfort or safety. But most of all, it participates greatly to the destruction of the surface of the glass.

There are two distinct stages to the corrosion process, occurring together or separately. The first stage is aqueous corrosion, caused by moisture. It is referred to as ion exchange or alkali extraction (leaching). An ion exchange occurs between sodium ions from the glass and hydrogen ions from the corrosion solution. The remaining components of the glass are not altered, but the effective surface area in contact with the solution is increased. This increase in surface area leads to extraction or leaching of the alkali ions from the glass, leaving a silica-rich layer on the surface. As silica (SiO2) concentration in the glass goes down, surface area increases through dissolution of the glass surface. The pH of the solution in contact with the glass will greatly affect the corrosion process. A rapid pH increase will cause a rapid breakdown of the glass surface.

There are two types of aqueous corrosion, static and dynamic. Static aqueous corrosion is caused by an entrapment of moisture on the surface of the glass. In dynamic aqueous corrosion, the corrosion solution is replenished due to condensation run-off. Even a single droplet of moisture on unprotected glass can produce sufficient damage to be visible in good lighting.

The second stage of corrosion is a process of destruction of the leached surface layers of glass. Glass is resistant to most acids but is highly susceptible to attack by alkaline materials, especially a concentration of OH- ions giving a pH greater than 9.0. The result is an attack of the network forming silica-oxygen (Si-O) bonds, leading to dissolution of the glass surface.

Alkaline cleaning products are readily available and widely used, sometimes indiscriminately, in surface maintenance. Damage to the glass can also be caused by improper and abrasive cleaning methods.

 

Cheebsy

Microbe minion
From the linked page

Only a few chemicals aggressively attack glass -- hydrofluoric acid, concentrated phosphoric acid (when hot, or when it contains fluorides), hot concentrated alkali solutions and superheated water. Hydrofluoric acid is the most powerful of this group; it attacks any type of silicate glass. Other acids attack only slightly; the degree of attack can be measured in laboratory tests but such corrosion is rarely significant in service for acids other than hydrofluoric and phosphoric.
 

iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
Yes, I agree.


I still believe the OP issue is either their mind or they have not cleaned the glass all the way.
Man I've tried so hard. My mind maybe be exaggerating but my wife notices it and it never fully leaves and after a day of use it is pretty pungent. I have cleaners coming so hopefully that will give a deeper clean. If I am still having issues and I am at a loss still to ensure I'm not tricking myself or that I'm just not doing well enough I will send ya a glass piece with a prepaid label for return if you would want to check it out. I've been vaping for awhile and using glass even longer and never any issues.

Edit- oh yeah good post on glass corrosion.
 

FlyingLow

Team NO SLEEP!
Thanks Stretch, lots to take in!

I have a gem of a Jerome Baker camper, Pre-Op, that is in need of restoration. Glass is in good condition but stained in spite of being kept clean. ISO and salt prove less than effective. What is the secret to getting that sparkle clear glass back?

If any of you have tricks up your sleeve, please share!
 

strech

Well-Known Member
Once you use it you start the soiling all over again. I wash my stuff at least every 3 days usually more. I personally find myself in a coughing fit once my glass gets to a certain point. My wife can hit the same bong and water for months without issue. Hell if it wasn't for me I don't think her glass would ever been clean.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
and it never fully leaves and after a day of use it is pretty pungent

This is the part that confuses me, as even my friends that smoke bongs get them shiny clean again; and you mention it gets worse after vaping:

I believe you have a Flowerpot? Any heavy hitter like that will make swamp water on demand, the smaller the pipe the faster it occurs. A lot of people on this forum donā€™t like to talk about the combustion that occurs to cannabis at vaporization temperatures. There are over 400 chemicals in cannabis, some of them combust at nominal vaping temperatures, well before the entire plant ā€œcatches on fire.ā€ You can smell/taste this.

The easiest way to demonstrate this is with a VROD, a rosin press, and two water pipes. Vaping the exact same strain, in flower AND oil form, from the same material, with the same vaporizer was one of the most useful learning experiences Iā€™ve had while vaping. The water pipe that handled the dry herb will always stink when compared side by side to the pipe that only saw concentrate, as those degraded plant compounds leach into the water.


Thanks Stretch, lots to take in!

I have a gem of a Jerome Baker camper, Pre-Op, that is in need of restoration. Glass is in good condition but stained in spite of being kept clean. ISO and salt prove less than effective. What is the secret to getting that sparkle clear glass back?

If any of you have tricks up your sleeve, please share!

If you donā€™t use distilled water in your tubes Iā€™d start with a vinegar soak to pull hard water deposits.
 

strech

Well-Known Member
I have not found anything the 90% iso and some salt hasn't cleaned up. I have been know to soak overnight really soiled glass in a tupperware make sure to have enough iso to cover the entire piece and put a lid on it. No need to let it all evaporate.

Vinegar has done great job of cleaning my jars for canning.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Hard water / calcium deposits are no joke, I fixed a Keurig machine for someone that stooped working just from hard water. I should take a TDS reading of my tap water cause itā€™s gotta be through the roof, I posted a pic in my vape thread recently of my main rig while on my phone, and when I looked at it later on my laptop my tube looked like when dog shit turns white šŸ˜‚ . I used to be a distilled water patriarch but Iā€™ve been changing the water multiple times a day in my flower setup with tap water (Relatable to this thread cause the water stinks) and my cheap-assedness was causing heavy hard water stains. Realistically if I donā€™t use distilled water I eventually HAVE to use vinegar so it probably breaks even cost wise to just use distilled from the get-go.
 

Kins

Well-Known Member
Borosilicate glass is one of those most resilient materials around regarding acid and alkali solutions, that's why it's still number one in biological and life science research and lab testing applications. Acetone is just nail polish remover, if it was that caustic it wouldnt come in a cheap plastic bottle.

How do we know his pieces were made of Borosilicate?
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
How do we know his pieces were made of Borosilicate?

Thatā€™s a fair question - but soda-lime glass is still quite resilient against chemical attack. Most mason jars and food storage containers are soda-lime glass. The biggest difference between the silica based glasses such as soda-lime, borosilicate, and quartz comes from how they handle thermal shock, or thermal expansion. With quartz being the purest, and most resilient.
 
invertedisdead,
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