Stink wont stay away?!

iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
This is the part that confuses me, as even my friends that smoke bongs get them shiny clean again; and you mention it gets worse after vaping:

I believe you have a Flowerpot? Any heavy hitter like that will make swamp water on demand, the smaller the pipe the faster it occurs. A lot of people on this forum don’t like to talk about the combustion that occurs to cannabis at vaporization temperatures. There are over 400 chemicals in cannabis, some of them combust at nominal vaping temperatures, well before the entire plant “catches on fire.” You can smell/taste this.

The easiest way to demonstrate this is with a VROD, a rosin press, and two water pipes. Vaping the exact same strain, in flower AND oil form, from the same material, with the same vaporizer was one of the most useful learning experiences I’ve had while vaping. The water pipe that handled the dry herb will always stink when compared side by side to the pipe that only saw concentrate, as those degraded plant compounds leach into the water.




If you don’t use distilled water in your tubes I’d start with a vinegar soak to pull hard water deposits.
Yeah it honestly smells like the globs and dirty plant material. Yeah the FP gets things dirty that's why I clean my glass every day every other day. Sometimes I change water out mid day because it gets that sludgy white hue almost makes it look like it's full of saliva.
My glass is all boro to the best of my knowledge.
 

nopapers_justvapors

Active Member
Once you use it you start the soiling all over again. I wash my stuff at least every 3 days usually more. I personally find myself in a coughing fit once my glass gets to a certain point. My wife can hit the same bong and water for months without issue. Hell if it wasn't for me I don't think her glass would ever been clean.
You hit a bong with your wife? Man that's awesome, mine just drinks wine 😁
 

Kins

Well-Known Member
I love piece water. The idea is to use it instead of water and it catches a ton of nasty stuff and breaks down and repels the resin. You just use it for a few days and it will collect all the nasty stuff. That way you don't have to clean your bong so often. You can just dump out the piece water and rinse it with hot water and it'll come completely clean. Not that that solves your problem now, but it might help you out in the future.
 

iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
I love piece water. The idea is to use it instead of water and it catches a ton of nasty stuff and breaks down and repels the resin. You just use it for a few days and it will collect all the nasty stuff. That way you don't have to clean your bong so often. You can just dump out the piece water and rinse it with hot water and it'll come completely clean. Not that that solves your problem now, but it might help you out in the future.
Yeah I saw them on IG and saved a post from then to go back n look at it.
 
iDRINKBLEACH,

Kins

Well-Known Member
I usually use filtered water from my Brita. Not sure if that helps keep things cleaner than with distilled water. Might get more Piece water. Now that I read this thread I'm thinking of another reason to keep using piece water. I just ran out of it too. Have to wait now though as I purchased myself some new "pot toys" for Black Friday.
 
Kins,

howie105

Well-Known Member
So all my glass have a smell, almost like vapor glob stink (globs that accumulate while vaping) and I cannot get the smell out and shortly after cleaning and using it comes back quickly. It's almost like my glass is stained with the smell/taste. I wash every day at most 2 days with 2-3 pieces of glass in rotation. So they never get filthy. I use iso or everclear and salt. Last night I tried mixing lemon juice in with it to see if it gave any better effects, yet it failed. I was going to do another iso wash on all my glass and try to run through the dishwasher to see if the steam n heat would help. I'm at a loss guys. I already ordered two glass pieces to use until I get this figured out...
I have a silly question, what type of glass piece are you using? After I broke my last recycler I never replaced it because it was such a pain in the butt to keep clean.
 
howie105,

bizwaxzion

Enigmatic Cannabist
I have not found anything the 90% iso and some salt hasn't cleaned up.
I use only distilled water in my rigs, but I have one piece that has some clouding inside the perc (FOL perc from CCG) that nothing has been able to remove (ISO/Salt, Simple Green Concentrate, Dark Crystal, Vinegar, Acetone, hot water). It was not there when new and took a while to develop. Would love to get it totally clean again. This is a part that stays totally under the water line and the cloudiness is only inside the round part of the pec - the stem/tube coming into the piece is fine.
 
bizwaxzion,

iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
I have a silly question, what type of glass piece are you using? After I broke my last recycler I never replaced it because it was such a pain in the butt to keep clean.
Currently the main problem ones are FC-UFO, a dhgate sake bottle, and a tattoo glass banger hanger there is a couple more that are getting there but not as bad as these. All of which are super easy to clean.
 
iDRINKBLEACH,

BrianTL

Westchester, NY
I love piece water. The idea is to use it instead of water and it catches a ton of nasty stuff and breaks down and repels the resin. You just use it for a few days and it will collect all the nasty stuff. That way you don't have to clean your bong so often. You can just dump out the piece water and rinse it with hot water and it'll come completely clean. Not that that solves your problem now, but it might help you out in the future.

I used this when I was combusting, strictly used it for idk, at least 6 months (hope it goes without saying, I did change it... not the same water for 6 months lol)

I'm a believer for combustion, not sure its entirely worth it for vaping. BUT I have a decent amount leftover from combusting, and I've really slowed down water pipe usage since picking up vaping, just haven't really felt the desire, mostly out of laziness probably but whatever.

Maybe I start to make more of an effort to get back into my bubbler. I've used it a few times with vapes and its always fun, but a process.

Really just came here to say the piece water works pretty good lol. Other than that I've never had an issue with ISO and salt to keep the stink away. Sorry I cant help more!
 

bizwaxzion

Enigmatic Cannabist
I usually use filtered water from my Brita. Not sure if that helps keep things cleaner than with distilled water.
For what it's worth, I find that the Brita doesn't remove much in the way of disolved solids. My tap water has an EC of 0.625 and when run through the Brita has an EC of 0.575. This translates to a TDS PPM of around 300 (very hard water) - so perhaps your source water is not too bad? If you are on muni water, you should be able to get the yearly water report and that should at least tell you what the TDS PPM range is.
 

strech

Well-Known Member
I use only distilled water in my rigs, but I have one piece that has some clouding inside the perc (FOL perc from CCG) that nothing has been able to remove (ISO/Salt, Simple Green Concentrate, Dark Crystal, Vinegar, Acetone, hot water). It was not there when new and took a while to develop. Would love to get it totally clean again. This is a part that stays totally under the water line and the cloudiness is only inside the round part of the pec - the stem/tube coming into the piece is fine.
As much as it sucks some time you really need that physical wipe. Snake a pipe cleaner or other small flexible poke of your choice.

Have you tried mixing baking soda and vinegar into a paste? Let it sit in the soiled area for 15-20 minutes. Then triple rinse.
 

iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
As much as it sucks some time you really need that physical wipe. Snake a pipe cleaner or other small flexible poke of your choice.

Have you tried mixing baking soda and vinegar into a paste? Let it sit in the soiled area for 15-20 minutes. Then triple rinse.
Yeah I got one of those it's a little black brush on a 2 foot bendy wire. I just tried paste instead I ended up doing a vinegar baking soda soak after exploding foam every where. If this doesnt work I will do paste I see where my error was lol. I have another that's been soaking in simple green I will empty both soon and report back.
 

howie105

Well-Known Member
Yeah I got one of those it's a little black brush on a 2 foot bendy wire. I just tried paste instead I ended up doing a vinegar baking soda soak after exploding foam every where. If this doesnt work I will do paste I see where my error was lol. I have another that's been soaking in simple green I will empty both soon and report back.
I just finished my first ever try with Simple Green and it cleaned fairly well (including the SS screen and silicone collar) at a 1 to 1 concentration. My only question is how long will it take for the smell to disappear? Like a fool I experimented on the WPA that I wanted to use tonight so I couldn't let it air out on its own. In the end I did three ISO soaks and scrubs to get the smell down to a acceptable level. I really want to hear your observations on using Simple Green.
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
I was thinking of doing this as a last measure I just didnt wanna get stuck in that loop of I had a mouse problem so I got cats now I have a dog problem so I'm going to go round up some bears lol...

I am a a fan of mustard does the mustard taste stick?

Update on my status. I've cleaned all my glass to no success. I have one piece soaking in simple green and another in vinegar. 1 lbs Pbw and a gallon of medical grade iso and 2 new glass pieces are on their way home oh and a couple new sets of cleaning plugs.


I did buy plugs. I will look into baby tabs. Do you taste the cranberry extract?
Just check "Milton tabs" on Amazon or Google. They should be NaDCC, which is safe for use with baby products. I had to deal with a piece of red material (assuming it was a piece of fungus), which wouldnt die or go away with even bleach, and an overnight soak in NaDCC bleached it white, and I'm pretty sure that it then came out with the iso and salt wash.

New glass is bright and sparkling, easy to see through and easy to clean and keep clean. Contrary to popular belief, the surface of the glass is not completely smooth. It has what glass manufacturers call 'lattice' or 'honeycomb' patterns. Under a microscope glass reveals a rougher surface made of peaks and potholes. Organic and inorganic contaminants fill these potholes and react chemically with the glass, firmly bonding to its surface. As a result, glass easily becomes stained and discolored, difficult to see through and difficult to clean and keep clean. The surface of the glass also possesses hydrophilic properties and is over time subjected to a corrosion process that will make its surface rougher and therefore its damage greater, in some cases irreversibly. (reference)

This has great implications on the property owner and any other users of glass, increased costs and efforts in maintenance, renovation or replacement, and in all cases a reduction in the expected performance.

Just as metal rusts, glass is subjected to a corrosion process caused by reactions between the glass surface and gases in the atmosphere. It is commonly associated with moisture or vapor attack through condensation, or reaction with an alkaline solution.

Glass is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts and holds moisture. All glass has a molecular layer of moisture on the surface. When this layer increases because of humidity or rainfall, it can obscure visibility and create a risk to comfort or safety. But most of all, it participates greatly to the destruction of the surface of the glass.

There are two distinct stages to the corrosion process, occurring together or separately. The first stage is aqueous corrosion, caused by moisture. It is referred to as ion exchange or alkali extraction (leaching). An ion exchange occurs between sodium ions from the glass and hydrogen ions from the corrosion solution. The remaining components of the glass are not altered, but the effective surface area in contact with the solution is increased. This increase in surface area leads to extraction or leaching of the alkali ions from the glass, leaving a silica-rich layer on the surface. As silica (SiO2) concentration in the glass goes down, surface area increases through dissolution of the glass surface. The pH of the solution in contact with the glass will greatly affect the corrosion process. A rapid pH increase will cause a rapid breakdown of the glass surface.

There are two types of aqueous corrosion, static and dynamic. Static aqueous corrosion is caused by an entrapment of moisture on the surface of the glass. In dynamic aqueous corrosion, the corrosion solution is replenished due to condensation run-off. Even a single droplet of moisture on unprotected glass can produce sufficient damage to be visible in good lighting.

The second stage of corrosion is a process of destruction of the leached surface layers of glass. Glass is resistant to most acids but is highly susceptible to attack by alkaline materials, especially a concentration of OH- ions giving a pH greater than 9.0. The result is an attack of the network forming silica-oxygen (Si-O) bonds, leading to dissolution of the glass surface.

Alkaline cleaning products are readily available and widely used, sometimes indiscriminately, in surface maintenance. Damage to the glass can also be caused by improper and abrasive cleaning methods.

Very interesting. I had no idea about that.

Any ideas about ISO and salt, or NaDCC?
 
EverythingsHazy,
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Kins

Well-Known Member
New glass is bright and sparkling, easy to see through and easy to clean and keep clean. Contrary to popular belief, the surface of the glass is not completely smooth. It has what glass manufacturers call 'lattice' or 'honeycomb' patterns. Under a microscope glass reveals a rougher surface made of peaks and potholes. Organic and inorganic contaminants fill these potholes and react chemically with the glass, firmly bonding to its surface. As a result, glass easily becomes stained and discolored, difficult to see through and difficult to clean and keep clean. The surface of the glass also possesses hydrophilic properties and is over time subjected to a corrosion process that will make its surface rougher and therefore its damage greater, in some cases irreversibly. (reference)

This has great implications on the property owner and any other users of glass, increased costs and efforts in maintenance, renovation or replacement, and in all cases a reduction in the expected performance.

Just as metal rusts, glass is subjected to a corrosion process caused by reactions between the glass surface and gases in the atmosphere. It is commonly associated with moisture or vapor attack through condensation, or reaction with an alkaline solution.

Glass is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts and holds moisture. All glass has a molecular layer of moisture on the surface. When this layer increases because of humidity or rainfall, it can obscure visibility and create a risk to comfort or safety. But most of all, it participates greatly to the destruction of the surface of the glass.

There are two distinct stages to the corrosion process, occurring together or separately. The first stage is aqueous corrosion, caused by moisture. It is referred to as ion exchange or alkali extraction (leaching). An ion exchange occurs between sodium ions from the glass and hydrogen ions from the corrosion solution. The remaining components of the glass are not altered, but the effective surface area in contact with the solution is increased. This increase in surface area leads to extraction or leaching of the alkali ions from the glass, leaving a silica-rich layer on the surface. As silica (SiO2) concentration in the glass goes down, surface area increases through dissolution of the glass surface. The pH of the solution in contact with the glass will greatly affect the corrosion process. A rapid pH increase will cause a rapid breakdown of the glass surface.

There are two types of aqueous corrosion, static and dynamic. Static aqueous corrosion is caused by an entrapment of moisture on the surface of the glass. In dynamic aqueous corrosion, the corrosion solution is replenished due to condensation run-off. Even a single droplet of moisture on unprotected glass can produce sufficient damage to be visible in good lighting.

The second stage of corrosion is a process of destruction of the leached surface layers of glass. Glass is resistant to most acids but is highly susceptible to attack by alkaline materials, especially a concentration of OH- ions giving a pH greater than 9.0. The result is an attack of the network forming silica-oxygen (Si-O) bonds, leading to dissolution of the glass surface.

Alkaline cleaning products are readily available and widely used, sometimes indiscriminately, in surface maintenance. Damage to the glass can also be caused by improper and abrasive cleaning methods.


Very strange reference you used...
 

iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
I just finished my first ever try with Simple Green and it cleaned fairly well (including the SS screen and silicone collar) at a 1 to 1 concentration. My only question is how long will it take for the smell to disappear? Like a fool I experimented on the WPA that I wanted to use tonight so I couldn't let it air out on its own. In the end I did three ISO soaks and scrubs to get the smell down to a acceptable level. I really want to hear your observations on using Simple Green.
Mine was okay. I could not detect any smell until I buried my nose and even then on a scale to 1-10 it was at 1, vinegar and baking soda did well for a quick soak. The difference I think was the vinegar was removing the smell instead simple green seemed more like it was masking it. Tonight I'm going to try baking soda, vinegar, and simple green. I will report back tonight I forgot to check to see how and if the smell was returning.

Edit--- the wife seemed like she could smell it more than me after cleaning.
 
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howie105

Well-Known Member
Mine was okay. I could not detect any smell until I buried my nose and even then on a scale to 1-10 it was at 1, vinegar and baking soda did well for a quick soak. The difference I think was the vinegar was removing the smell instead simple green seemed more like it was masking it. Tonight I'm going to try baking soda, vinegar, and simple green. I will report back tonight I forgot to check to see how and if the smell was returning.

Edit--- the wife seemed like she could smell it more than me after cleaning.
Thanks for the info, I will try vinegar next.
 

iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
Thanks for the info, I will try vinegar next.
You going through the same as me? Do you think adding cranberry extract would help lubricate the resin to remove? I will probably add some to the mix. Pbw and new cleaning plugs will be at my house monday.
 
iDRINKBLEACH,
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howie105

Well-Known Member
You going through the same as me? Do you think adding cranberry extract would help lubricate the resin to remove? I will probably add some to the mix. Pbw and new cleaning plugs will be at my house monday.
I never tried cranberry extract or PBW, to this point my solution for really stubborn pot gunk on glass was acetone but I ran out. It worked well as a overnight soak and scrub, when used in a well ventilated area followed by a water flush. Out of an abundance of caution I kept the acetone away from all the silicone bits but many folks say that it is not necessary. One last thing, acetone and its fumes are really flammable.
 

iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
I never tried cranberry extract or PBW, to this point my solution for really stubborn pot gunk on glass was acetone but I ran out. It worked well as a overnight soak and scrub, when used in a well ventilated area followed by a water flush. Out of an abundance of caution I kept the acetone away from all the silicone bits but many folks say that it is not necessary. One last thing, acetone and its fumes are really flammable.
I'll give it a go n check it out. My wife got me a couple fire extinguishers when I brought home a toaster oven haha so at least I have those
 
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iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
Any updates on the stink?
Stink is manageable with what I did, it did return but not as fast and as pungent. I didnt empty and air dry my pieces that gave been soaking in a mixture of vinegar, baking soda, and simple green after doing a alcohol and salt rinse. I'm wondering since vinegar seemed to help if I have hard water if the left over residue that's left behind is trapping the smell of an old rig.
I got my new glass so I can really put some work in on my favorite pieces that are the stinkiest.
 
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iDRINKBLEACH

knowing is half the power - Gi-JOE
Accessory Maker
Update. The smell/taste is gone. I mean you can smell it's been used but it's not a stink per say. Huge difference and it isnt coming right back. The smell/taste of simple green lingers for a bit I also might have put to much. Vinegar, baking soda, simple green soak and soak after alcohol wash. Came out looking new and shiny. PBW is still coming monday. I didnt clean one so I can try pbw and see how it does.
 

Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
You can mess about or you can simply soak in acetone for an hour or two, followed by hot water rinse. This will completely remove 100% of anything that has a smell and in the rare chance that something is still stuck to the glass, it will be non- resinous and can be removed with salt and alcohol and ( carefuly) shaking.
You can collect the acetone in an HDPE bottle and reuse it for cleaning many times.
 
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