Gear Slug .33 Rosin Forge

[GreenHopper]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-4-in-Drill-Press-Vise-424DPV/206726970

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXNFDLY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1ZEWTXP2XG4SY&psc=1

spent the last few hours researching, this will be my setup. All that's left is the countdown till everything arrives

Looks like you are all set and good to go.

 

[Cl4ud3]

Most of this has been hit and miss for me, I didn't know enough about torches. One thing to look at though, which I didn't, is if your torch works at any angle as some only like being upright. Found this out today while trying to find a comfortable position for the torch.

 

[FlyingLow]

Here is all you need to know about torches- BUY A FUCKING BIG SHOT from BLAZER. Done.

It is economical and the last torch you will ever buy. It will also save a ton on butane as well... My big shot can make a quartz nail glow in 10-11 seconds (wait for it to cool!). How long does a chef torch take? I burned through so much butane when using a lesser torch.

My igniter on this thing never misses a click. Dare I say it is perfection... I even saw Action using one on the Untitled Show last night

 

[GreenHopper]

Here is all you need to know about torches- BUY A FUCKING BIG SHOT from BLAZER. Done.

It is economical and the last torch you will ever buy. It will also save a ton on butane as well... My big shot can make a quartz nail glow in 10-11 seconds (wait for it to cool!). How long does a chef torch take? I burned through so much butane when using a lesser torch.

My igniter on this thing never misses a click. Dare I say it is perfection... I even saw Action using one on the Untitled Show last night

In the UK that's a £70 torch.

 

[Cl4ud3]

In the UK that's a £70 torch.

Exactly and when you add conversion rate that's twice the price you pay in America. I did look at one but at that price not a chance, especially as I only need it for heating the slug. They call it rip off britain for a reason.

 

[FlyingLow]

eek! I think I paid $45 USD.

I understand, I do kinda look at it like an investment in any other good tool.
How much does a chef's torch cost on your side of the pond?
Is butane also crazy prices?

 

[Square4Life]

Didn't even think to check FC for a Slug thread...DOH!

Got a culinary torch going to try first although that Blazer looks pretty nice. Pretty excited to give this thing a whirl when it gets in!

 

[FlyingLow]

Blazer is gold for nails, I really have more experimenting to do. Tried squishing glue and I either need to back off of full heat on the big shot, or shorten the 1:15 timer....

also at full heat, one needs to be mindful of the angle the torch hits the slug. My hand wandered a moment and the reflection off the slug angled just slightly onto and burnt some of the parchment.

there is a small learning curve, but there is improvement. Even with a blow out.

 

[Cl4ud3]

eek! I think I paid $45 USD.

I understand, I do kinda look at it like an investment in any other good tool.
How much does a chef's torch cost on your side of the pond?
Is butane also crazy prices?

Chefs torches you can get for like 10-20$ here, so that is a big difference to the blazer at around $100. I do agree with you about investing in good tools, buying cheap is often a false economy but in this case at $100 it's way too much.
I don't think fuel is cheaper than with you but I could be wrong, if it's like your petrol prices you guys pay very little compared to us.
I got 8 cans of cheap butane/propane for my torch burner for $12. Clean butane would be more expensive but for this application wasn't needed.

I had a slight burning of the parchment on my first run, nothing major and all for science!

 

[Doktor Dub]

So a friend made me a nice backplate which i will have hopefully this evening, then more testing this weekend.

I wonder if it wouldn t be a good idea to include some sort of backplate with every order, probably this could prevent "blow outs"?

 

[Cl4ud3]

So a vertical vice worked better for me, different strain of flower again and the oil was a darker colour from the start of production, maybe a little too much heat but much better results.

So thing's I've noticed so far. .

Cheap vices are not a worthwhile investment but if I was to go again I would look at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-BENCH-...P-WORK-TABLE-WORKSHOP-200MM-WIDE/361235401395 for the larger plate and the guides for the jaws to follow. Not sure if it would be suitable but probably better than the ones we picked.

With these cheap vices you must put the slug in the middle where the jaw screw pushes, off to the side will cause seepage.

Back plate should be smooth or you can get tearing of the paper like I had here.

More testing needs to be done but I think I've proved it works for me, just need the perfect kit for maximum results.

Instead of parchment I'm starting to wonder if we could use something like https://nogoononstick.com/buy-nogoo/#!/The-NoGoo®-Goo-Dish/p/26609243/category=5498207 instead. Thoughts ?

 

[Grifo]

some one needs to use a mesh screen in between the slug and the parchment paper

 

[GreenHopper]

some one needs to use a mesh screen in between the slug and the parchment paper

Haha I was thinking exactly the same thing today. Great minds! Was going to try my slug tonight but I busted myself up during a workout so I'm stuck on my back.

I got my hex keys though but still need to clean up my vice, it arrived covered in grease.

Let's see how I feel tomorrow.

I have some mesh to play with.

 

[FlyingLow]

My hex stripped the bolt holding my plate, so I am stuck with jagged pointed inwards towards the clamp.

I have some friends in high places, and was provided some heat shield from an aircraft turbine to use as my backplates.

I think the 4.5" vise is the perfect size. Any bigger I think is kinda overkill and there can be a substantial step up in cost at 6" and larger... those tend to be used in commercial applications.



QUESTION:
How long do you all wait between presses. My slug is too hot to handle


edit- I fucking love my Big Shot but I need to pull back my recommendation with the Slug.33 (perhaps a better fit for the Slug 2). Needs research, but I think I am loosing some flavor profile at even the lowest temp setting.

 

[Square4Life]

I got my Deuce in and have done two presses (well, three but I'll explain) so far and been fairly pleased.

Using an old vice similar to the ones used in the @Nattybushdoctor videos, just probably older than me. What is cool is that the backing plates are large enough for even the Deuce, granted I still use a big ass old coin for the smoothness and so if it does bust through, it'll be on the coin.

So, I tried the presses with a culinary torch that has quite a large/broad flame, even on the lowest setting. The first go round I wiped everything down with alcohol and then torched it all and let it sit until my excitement couldn't contain my fingers from grabbing the hot metal any longer and starting to stuff it. All went as expected although I was getting some oil out the shaft way before even a minute of heating up. I assumed it was because the slug was already still somewhat hot from the cleaning and therefore that is why.

The second go, it was much later, the slug was completely cool...by 40-45 seconds into the heating, I've got oil coming out the shaft end. What I did, is stop heating once I saw this and kept tightening down and then once it was completely tightened and as I could tell the rosin was starting to slow down (within just a few seconds), I then started to add a bit more heat.

I believe my torch is just a bit too much for this scenario. I also have to angle it just right so it doesn't get my parchment paper. It's just too much of a broad flame. Got a Dremel torch that has a very precise yet strong pencil-flame. Going to use this one on my next go round.

I DID my third press on some I had already pressed to see how the dremel would perform for 1:30-1:45 (I have a Deuce so the heatup time is going to be longer, how much longer is what I am still trying to figure out) and got very little rosin, which kind of made me feel good since that makes me think it is getting a full extraction, for the most part.

Yield was around 15% for each one and it's not near as amazing looking beginning product as what I see some of you guys post.

It's hard for me not to just continue loading as I want to keep doing it lol

@FlyingLow , yeah the cool-down time is something I am curious about as well. It gets hot and stays quite hot for some time lol. I try to clean it up while still hot and my fork doesn't fit the deuce, since the shaft is bigger (that's what she said), so trying to get it apart while still hot is quite the task. I'm hoping a bigger fork will be made for the larger one sometime in the future, not a big deal though.

EDITED FOR WORDING..

 

[The Beagle]

GAS IS FAST! We were thinking of induction?? but stainless steel doesn't work with induction. It is so damn hard to improve on it. But we keep trying.

This!
I have tried to press some rosin for personal use with an hair straightener and an Irwing grip but I've never been happy with the equipment I had and the quality of my rosin has been everywhere from terrible to excellent without being able to reproduce the good results.
Being a butane vape fan I really like the idea of replicating the same concept to the extraction process and I also read you ship overseas, I may order one to see how it works...

 

[Nattybushdoctor]

I got my Deuce in and have done two presses (well, three but I'll explain) so far and been fairly pleased.

Using an old vice similar to the ones used in the @Nattybushdoctor videos, just probably older than me. What is cool is that the backing plates are large enough for even the Deuce, granted I still use a big ass old coin for the smoothness and so if it does bust through, it'll be on the coin.

So, I tried the presses with a culinary torch that has quite a large/broad flame, even on the lowest setting. The first go round I wiped everything down with alcohol and then torched it all and let it sit until my excitement couldn't contain my fingers from grabbing the hot metal any longer and starting to stuff it. All went as expected although I was getting some oil out the shaft way before even a minute of heating up. I assumed it was because the slug was already still somewhat hot from the cleaning and therefore that is why.

The second go, it was much later, the slug was completely cool...by 40-45 seconds into the heating, I've got oil coming out the shaft end. What I did, is stop heating once I saw this and kept tightening down and then once it was completely tightened and as I could tell the rosin was starting to slow down (within just a few seconds), I then started to add a bit more heat.

I believe my torch is just a bit too much for this scenario. I also have to angle it just right so it doesn't get my parchment paper. It's just too much of a broad flame. Got a Dremel torch that has a very precise yet strong pencil-flame. Going to use this one on my next go round.

I DID my third press on some I had already pressed to see how the dremel would perform for 1:30-1:45 (I have a Deuce so the heatup time is going to be longer, how much longer is what I am still trying to figure out) and got very little rosin, which kind of made me feel good since that makes me think it is getting a full extraction, for the most part.

Yield was around 15% for each one and it's not near as amazing looking beginning product as what I see some of you guys post.

It's hard for me not to just continue loading as I want to keep doing it lol

@FlyingLow , yeah the cool-down time is something I am curious about as well. It gets hot and stays quite hot for some time lol. I try to clean it up while still hot and my fork doesn't fit the deuce, since the shaft is bigger (that's what she said), so trying to get it apart while still hot is quite the task. I'm hoping a bigger fork will be made for the larger one sometime in the future, not a big deal though.

EDITED FOR WORDING..

 

[Nattybushdoctor]

I will usually let mine cool down for 10 minutes or so then I will clean it with a paper towel. It will still be quite hot at this point so you have to be quick. Or you could let it cool down or cool it down immediately, then clean it with alcohol.
THE FORK does not need to go around the shaft to do its job. Even with the .33 the spacer must be pried up FIRST, before you can insert it around the shaft. With your Deuce being of larger size, the spacer is easy to get a good grip on, so we felt that prying up the spacer with the fork would be satisfactory. TIP: If you find yourself faced with a COLD Slug that needs to be cleaned and the plunger is locked in like cement, take your torch and heat it up for a little bit, then the plunger will pull right out with ease.
Backing Plates, we will be offering those on our website very soon along with other Slug.33 products.
Check us out at slug33.com .

 

[Square4Life]

I will usually let mine cool down for 10 minutes or so then I will clean it with a paper towel. It will still be quite hot at this point so you have to be quick. Or you could let it cool down or cool it down immediately, then clean it with alcohol.
THE FORK does not need to go around the shaft to do its job. Even with the .33 the spacer must be pried up FIRST, before you can insert it around the shaft. With your Deuce being of larger size, the spacer is easy to get a good grip on, so we felt that prying up the spacer with the fork would be satisfactory. TIP: If you find yourself faced with a COLD Slug that needs to be cleaned and the plunger is locked in like cement, take your torch and heat it up for a little bit, then the plunger will pull right out with ease.
Backing Plates, we will be offering those on our website very soon along with other Slug.33 products.
Check us out at slug33.com .

Makes sense on the fork.

On the backing plates, are they being made with a right angle (or thick enough) that they will stand on their own? That's the only complaint I have with using a coin is having to hold it all there until it gets tightened. A plate that stood on its own would be awesome. Thanks!

 

[Nattybushdoctor]

I know what you mean! Im very sorry about that, that is why I use a large coin and I epoxied it to the jaw of the vise. yes, they will stand on their own they will be made specifically for the 4 inch drill press vise. Its an issue I know. We are getting there thank you for your patience.
RJ

 

[Nattybushdoctor]

UPDATE! Seepage from rear of Slug? This is not much of an issue with .33 owners although it can happen it doesn't very often. It seems to be more of an issue with the DEUCE.
Believe me, I hate it! I would like to see ZERO seepage from the rear if ya know what i mean! BUT, GOOD NEWS! I just recently discovered that if we compress the flower material as much as possible approx. 3/4 of the way or until it becomes too tight to turn the vise. THEN heat for desired time. (approx. 1:20 seconds for me) Turn off heat and then finish compression. It works pretty good, so far it has greatly reduced this problem almost to the point where its not an issue. This may be a better and more efficient way to use our Slugs?
Thanks
RJ

 

[Square4Life]

NICE! I'll definitely give this a shot on my next press...(stop enticing me haha)

Thanks for looking into this.

 

[Planck]

I hate it! I would like to see ZERO seepage from the rear if ya know what i mean!

Perhaps a reamed hole and tighter fitting shaft?

 

[Square4Life]

Perhaps a reamed hole and tighter fitting shaft?

Not sure if you have one but as far as the tighter shaft...I'm not sure the tolerances could be too much tighter than what they are now, imo.

I'm faiy certain my leakage came from the bigger torch, the squish was also runnier than what I see in videos when it first started the drop-down.

We'll see upon my next attempt with the new method and Dremel torch.

 

[Nattybushdoctor]

yea, tolerances are pretty tight already, too tight and it becomes a pain in the butt to load. Especially those super frosty gummy cultivars. The hole starts to get gummed up as your loading it.
Leakage from the back, is also a tell sign to stop heating soon, if not immediately. Compressing your flower material as much as possible before any heating is done works really well at minimizing seepage and makes it easier to operate not having to constantly turn the vise. I also believe by leaving the spacer against the forge while heating will work as a heat sink witch may also help.??