Gear Slug .33 Rosin Forge

[ClearBlueLou]

I was thinking these nugs were screened to hell at the factory, not that they never had any...I’m sure a loupe would show me stuff, but with a fifteen year old pair of glasses and swarms of floaters in my eyes, and two surgeries, I don’t know if I could see what it showed me. By the end of the day I can hardly read, even on my Pad.

I give up on the green stuff here, there’s no visible tint in the oil. Maybe it’s my eyes, maybe I just said it wrong in the first place, maybe it’s the shitty light in here. I never thought you were recommending washing it with solvent. That was meant to be a duh remark. I brought it up to support my statement that I’ve seen extract with chlorophyll before, when I used to wash with solvent. I’ve seen you hold forth on the value of whole rosin as compared to “cleaned-up” rosin, and I agree completely. Bottom line is, it’s mine and I’m keeping it, chlorophyll or no.

When the day comes, I’ll grow better bud than this (and I won’t water-cure), but this isn’t bad at ALL. The plant itself seems thick with resin...@ a C for a Z, it’s much better than good enough! Too bad I’ve forged my way through a half z of this already. I do still have that other stuff, tho

 

[-dab8-]

I also have noticed that the better the material the better the yield
The drier the bud the better too.

If it is not fully closed at end of heating this is okay, do not rush it, just slowly turn till at end

Only if the slug slips back on centre pin do you need to quickly crank to prevent the blowouts....then crank tight and watch the goo

Two questions:

1. You say you have had better experience with drier bud? I thought the opposite would be true. If the bud is too dry, it can absorb some of the rosin. If the bud has some water in it, as you compress there is even less place for it to go. Is this completely inaccurate?

2. Can you explain what you mean when you say “only if the slug slips back on the center pin do you need to quickly crank to prevent blowouts?”

 

[VmosDef]

Finally got my Deuce and man was this effective, especially being my first press. That rosin tasted so sweet with higher notes snd it got me real lit.

I am super satisfied with this product, amazing purchase, No doubt.

Things I would've done differently would be to tone down my heat time. I timed a 1min 45sec run with my Blazer gt8000 and i think it was a little too hot. Regardless I think I got proper yields. Also, I used 2grs of flower, next time I think I can use a 1.8 or even maybe a 1.6 because I noticed some blowout on the edges of the disc.

Also I needed a bigger parchment paper. That shit was oooooozing out was too quickly. Also my next press ill try doing it on a 45 degree instead just horizontal. Youll notice that i had to slide a an extra piece under to catch the overflow. Caught it just in time.

I pressed with only the silicone from Nattys seal kit. I didn't use the copper washer because I wanted to create more of a depression in the flower disc to squeeze more rosin out. No rosin came out the plunger side so it worked. I think I'll go time pressing without the washer and use the silicone seal only. Anyways enjoy the pics

 

[Ramahs]

^ That looks lovely!

What kind of paper are you using?

 

[ClearBlueLou]

I know what you mean: there’s a point right at the end where the piston/pin/plunger is pushing the pressed herb out to form the puck...the Slug body itself lifts up a bit, and THIS is the point of maximum slowness, where you squeeze all the goo out and finish the press by closing the the vise (bringing it down until the Slug is back flat again).

 

[steama]

Last evening I had two black seep disks completely disintegrate in back to back runs. Normal nothing special about the runs at all...same everything. I lifted the deuce out of the vice and noticed the black seep disk was completely crumbled.

Hell, I was under the impression they would last for fucking ever./s
It is weird though two crumbled at nearly the exact same time.
________________________________

Thanks @VmosDef for the suggestion of removing the cooper colored back washer.
Doing this on my next run to see how it works out. Nice run indeed -- beautiful.

 

[ClearBlueLou]

Had no idea those were consumables (could be used up if cared for).
What’s your cleanup routine?

There is silicone and there is silicone. I suspect you’re the first to have found the lifespan of that iteration It may require a different material, or this may be it, and our extras are now replacements. Mine are white, and I’m guessing 15mm dia. and under 2mm thick.

How many loads have used the seep kit, and how regularly do you switch discs? Can you post a pic of what’s left of the discs?

Last evening I had two black seep disks completely disintegrate in back to back runs. Normal nothing special about the runs at all...same everything. I lifted the deuce out of the vice and noticed the black seep disk was completely crumbled.

Hell, I was under the impression they would last for fucking ever./s
It is weird though two crumbled at nearly the exact same time.
________________________________

Thanks @VmosDef for the suggestion of removing the cooper colored back washer.
Doing this on my next run to see how it works out. Nice run indeed -- beautiful.

I was watching that same thought unfold in my own head...but I figured we’d be using up the discs noticeably, doing it that way. I have fresh unused discs I’ll sacrifice for science, and I can find another eighth. Pix are a problem. Image sites want to own and use in perpetuity images I upload with neither restrictions nor restraint. Anybody know how to get around this? Or am I breaking a rule, by asking such a question?

 

[steama]

Two questions:

1. You say you have had better experience with drier bud? I thought the opposite would be true. If the bud is too dry, it can absorb some of the rosin. If the bud has some water in it, as you compress there is even less place for it to go. Is this completely inaccurate?

2. Can you explain what you mean when you say “only if the slug slips back on the center pin do you need to quickly crank to prevent blowouts?”

1. I agree drier herb works better but the term drier is hard to quantify for people. I have found that if enough moisture is left in the bud that when you squish it between your fingers, it feels relatively soft instead of hard and crumbly you are good go.
   
   
2. At the end of your run, when the slug slips back on the center pin, crank down quick to close the gap, and then slowly press the rosin out. The rosin flows 'after' the slug pulls back on the pin and the gap is closed. Then the rosin flows. What he describes is exactly what I also do.

Had no idea those were consumables (could be used up if cared for).
What’s your cleanup routine?

I don't bother cleaning the seep disks, just wipe clean a bit with finger tips. You need to understand that I have used these disks since I first got my deuces. Maybe I need to feel lucky they lasted so long.

 

[Mozy]

I was thinking of getting a juicebox but it takes em too long to make an 240v version so I'm back @ the slug.33

Since getting a nice bench vice is hard where im from without spending some dough I was thinking of this one. https://www.gereedschapcentrum.nl/silverline-292674-tafelboormachine-bankschroef-100mm.html
It has a 100mm opening, would that be enough for the gram forge?

Also I have a Blazer Big Buddy, anyone else knows the timing on this behemoth of a burner.

 

[Nattybushdoctor]

I was thinking of getting a juicebox but it takes em too long to make an 240v version so I'm back @ the slug.33

Since getting a nice bench vice is hard where im from without spending some dough I was thinking of this one. https://www.gereedschapcentrum.nl/silverline-292674-tafelboormachine-bankschroef-100mm.html
It has a 100mm opening, would that be enough for the gram forge?

Also I have a Blazer Big Buddy, anyone else knows the timing on this behemoth of a burner.

That vise looks just fine. You will want a backing plate to run with it. You could order ours or use your imagination. Turn your flame on the Blazer down to a medium low, and you should be fine. You will want to keep your heat time around 1:00 to 1:15 Max would be optimal. You may need to turn the flame size up to keep you within that timeline. Thank you in advance!

 

[steama]

I was thinking of getting a juicebox but it takes em too long to make an 240v version so I'm back @ the slug.33

Since getting a nice bench vice is hard where im from without spending some dough I was thinking of this one. https://www.gereedschapcentrum.nl/silverline-292674-tafelboormachine-bankschroef-100mm.html
It has a 100mm opening, would that be enough for the gram forge?

Also I have a Blazer Big Buddy, anyone else knows the timing on this behemoth of a burner.

The big buddy was too much torch for me. I used the big buddy and it worked on the lowest flame but still a bit much.

If possible go with the recommended whip-it ion lite torch. Starting out it can make a huge difference in how fast you are successful. This was my experience.

 

[Nattybushdoctor]

True. Thank you Steama!

 

[Mozy]

The big buddy was too much torch for me. I used the big buddy and it worked on the lowest flame but still a bit much.

If possible go with the recommended whip-it ion lite torch. Starting out it can make a huge difference in how fast you are successful. This was my experience.

not spending money on another torch. Gonna use my big buddy. Maybe lowest and more distance? did the flame at any point touch the forge?

 

[steama]

not spending money on another torch. Gonna use my big buddy. Maybe lowest and more distance? did the flame at any point touch the forge?

I think you can make almost any butane torch with enough power work with the slug33. You can change your run routine to accommodate a larger or smaller torch.

I was just comparing all my torch flames yesterday and the blazer big buddy has a lot of power. You will need to use the big buddy on low or medium low or about 85% towards the low end. Remember right after you refill the flame will we even larger for about a minute.

I would say that if you are going with the big buddy just keep an eye on the color of your rosin. If the rosin is too dark reduce the heating time or flame size. Your idea of more distance could also help if needed.

The good thing about heating with a powerful torch when learning it can be helpful. Not enough heat seems to be a common problem when starting out. As @Nattybushdoctor recommends set the blazer big buddy to medium low and you should be golden.

You will make yield increasing adjustment as you learn.

Go here and watch how to videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzuCF3cVxav67LEIneV8tjA

 

[-dab8-]

So some of you say to go extra slow when the slug body pulls away from the vise momentarily, some say to go extra fast till you close the gap to prevent blowouts.

Which is it???

 

[Mozy]

That vise look just fine. You will want a backing plate to run with it. You could order ours or use your imagination. Turn your flame on the Blazer down to a medium low, and you should be fine. You will want to keep your heat time around 1:00 to 1:15 Max would be optimal. You may need to turn size up some to keep you within that timeline. Thank you in advance!

Is 100mm enough for your backplate and a gram forge?

So some of you say to go extra slow when the slug body pulls away from the vise momentarily, some say to go extra fast till you close the gap to prevent blowouts.

Which is it???

I guess wich ever works for you?

 

[ClearBlueLou]

Distance definitely matters, it was the core of my stumbling to now. I follow @Gonzo_Dabs’ example of setting the gas right in the middle, and let the innermost blue part of the flame touch the slug, then hold it steady.

 

[Mozy]

Distance definitely matters, it was the core of my stumbling to now. I follow @Gonzo_Dabs’ example of setting the gas right in the middle, and let the innermost blue part of the flame touch the slug, then hold it steady.

I use that part of the flame on my elev8r too. 22-28 seconds and it's golden. How long do you do your forge?

 

[steama]

Did a run without the seep kit's cooper colored washer using only the silicone disk. Well, for me, the copper washer is going right back on. I had a pretty good decline in yield from when I use the entire seep kit.

I don't understand why yet but the stock seep kit with the washer works much better.

 

[ClearBlueLou]

@BornAgainSteama

there’s a point right at the end where the piston/pin/plunger is pushing the pressed herb out to form the puck...the Slug body itself lifts up a bit, and THIS is the point of maximum slowness, where you squeeze all the goo out and finish the press by closing the the vise (bringing it down until the Slug is back flat again).

So you’d say I Did NOT know what you meant on this part?

 

[Nattybushdoctor]

So some of you say to go extra slow when the slug body pulls away from the vise momentarily, some say to go extra fast till you close the gap to prevent blowouts.

Which is it???

That will depend on a couple things, if you are at max 2.2 grams then I would say best to go slow to allow the flower to compress into the area. If you are running closer to the 2 gram or slightly under then it maybe possible to compress quickly.

 

[steama]

That will depend on a couple things, if you are at max 2.2 grams then I would say best to go slow to allow the flower to compress into the area. If you are running closer to the 2 gram or slightly under then it maybe possible to compress quickly.

thanks, helpful info natty!

 

[ClearBlueLou]

I use that part of the flame on my elev8r too. 22-28 seconds and it's golden. How long do you do your forge?

Well, mine’s larger than most (he said).
Think a cylinder 4x5 cm, high and wide.

[i am SO keeping my mouth shut right this second]

So far, heating time target is 4 minutes, two in each side, and yes, that’s a substantial hunk of steel! And perfect, for what it’s perfect for...

@BornAgainSteama, how long have you had your seep kit, how many squeezes have you done?

 

[steama]

Well, mine’s larger than most (he said).
Think a cylinder 4x5 cm, high and wide.

[i am SO keeping my mouth shut right this second]

So far, heating time target is 4 minutes, two in each side, and yes, that’s a substantial hunk of steel! And perfect, for what it’s perfect for...

I think you may be the most brave on this thread learning with the fat mac is impressive in my book.

@BornAgainSteama, how long have your seep kit, how many squeezes have you done?

A shit load...I would have to count the pucks but they were worked to death I think. I have been using the seep disks equal amounts so I guess the silicone material finally died. Very weird the way it happened.



When I am ready for the fat mac I am going to PM you for pointers.

 

[ClearBlueLou]

More than a hundred, may I pry?
(X times 5)-1 is the breaking point

As I say, I have a (4, really) brand-new disc(s) and I’m willing to gain data with it (well, with one, at least) It has seen no use so far. I also have a disc that has one press on it. Examination shows some discoloration, the disc being discernibly darker overall than the others without direct illumination, and there are color marks that seem to have been left by the herb during its compression.

After application of an alcohol pad, it is noticeable if I put this one with the others.

I’ll pile up pics until I can solve my issue.