Wait, what METHANOL?!?
Methyl Alcohol?
Isn't that a no-no?
This is the first thin I have seen Methanol mentioned.
@herbivore21
I have had RSO made with methanol. As long as you purge correctly there is no danger. It is available locally as race gas. Cheap and pure.
Sorry to cause so much commotion about winterizing with Methanol! Yes, it is very dangerous and can be very harmful like
@t-dub and
@herbivore21 stated.
Yup, basically with effective and exhaustive purge it is no issue at all like was said above
The reason I am still scared by this idea is the fact that seriously 80%+ of the people I've known to make oils do not purge completely, generally still slick on your mats with no chance of scraping up with a tool. This with methanol would be ugly stuff!
I can't see the pictures for some reason (new device) but if there are any bubbles left (seriously, none! Don't take chances with methanol!) in that winterized product, I would NOT dab that! Do not risk safety for the chance that these might be co2 bubbles with methanol in the equation!
I really do not mean to rag on anyone's oil, like I say, I can't even see it - but I say this just in case. We gotta look after one another around these parts!
Thanks for your concern
@herbivore21!
Now, I will say that I am no scientist and no expert when it comes to making cannabis oil, but I have done a lot of research and I have had quite a bit of practice over the last 2 years.
I take all necessary safety precautions when using butane and methanol (masks, gloves, goggles, longs sleeves, blast outside, etc).
The Methanol I use is from Dudadiesel and is very pure from my understanding:
http://www.dudadiesel.com/msds/methanol.pdf
http://www.dudadiesel.com/msds/methanolCOA.pdf
The reason I use Methanol to winterize is because I read on skunkpharmresearch that Methanol is more polar than Isopropyl/Ethanol (Everclear)/acetone etc, so it actually does a better job of removing the non-polar plant waxes. It also leaves you with an end product that is a very stable glasslike shatter, which I prefer (I like the shatter consistency because I can handle it with my hands without it sticking to me, even when its 81F in my house).
http://skunkpharmresearch.com/getting-the-green-and-waxes-out-afterwards/comment-page-2/#comments
From the comments posted by Skunkpharmresearch in the above link:
"
Isopropyl isn’t as polar as ethanol or methanol, but it will remove some of the non polar plant waxes. Ethanol would be better and methanol would do the best job.
IPA is the least effective, ethanol next, and methanol most.
Polarity is a scale of least to most polar, as opposed to polar or non polar, but a dielectric constant of 15 is accepted as the breaking point, with Isopropyl only a 19.9. As a point of reference, ethanol has a DC of 24, methanol 32.7 and water 80.
"
Some basic facts:
Methanol has a boiling point of about 64.7C (148.5F) at 760mmHg (normal atmospheric pressure).
It has a heat of vaporization of 35.3 kJ/mol, so in a vacuum chamber pulled to 28.5mmHg, Methanol has a boiling point of -5C (23F).
I have actually tested this by putting a small amount of Methanol into a glass dish and putting it in the vacuum chamber at 78F and pulled to 28.5mmHg. That shit starts to boil up like crazy!
Methanol actually has a lower boiling point than Ethanol/Everclear (78.4C / 173F) and Isopropyl (82.6C / 180.7F), so Methanol is actually easier to purge compared to these other polar solvents that most people use!
After straining out the fats and lipids I let the Methanol solution evaporate outside at 70-90F (Arizona is already hot haha) for around 6-12 hours. This gets rid of the majority of the liquid which leaves me with a very sappy solution (something you would definitely not want to dab
)
I then put the sappy solution into my vacuum chamber pulled to 28.5mmHg with a 6cfm pump (I can't get it to 29.5mmHg because of the elevation in AZ. It would be pulling to 29.5mmHg if I was closer to sea level). The chamber is constantly heated between 105-110F using a reptile tank desert climate heat pad. I measure the bottom of the inside of the chamber with a K-type thermocouple sensor connected to a digital thermometer.
You are probably wrong if you think your chamber is actually the same temperature as the heating pad. If your chamber is larger and thicker, the temperature of the actual chamber is most likely much lower than the heating pad, like mine is. Or if your chamber is smaller and thinner, it could be much hotter than the heating pad. My old chamber would get up to 130F on this heating pad because it was a lot smaller and the metal was a lot thinner.
Based off Skunkpharmresearch, methanol bubbles act similar to butane bubbles:
"The methanol bubbles are larger and randomly sized. Then they are gone, and only fine more or less equally sized fizzy C02 bubbles remain, the methanol is adequately purged."
So I purge for about 72-120 hours depending on the amount of oil I am winterizing.
This 3-5 day purge involves flipping the oil a minimum of 6 times (I flip about every 8-12 hours).
At this point there are no more large or medium or even small bubbles. Sometimes, if I purge long enough (for 4-5 days like I did on this 5g slab of oil I just dewaxed) I will see many tiny bubbles of the same size appear (like you can see in the pic of the slab in my previous post). These are just CO2 bubbles because I have started the decarboxylation process from purging at 105-110 for so long. Like
@herbivore21 said, Methanol is nasty stuff, so I would rather start decarbing my oil a little and even sacrifice some of the terpenes, just to make sure there is no Methanol left in it. Even though the oil sometimes starts the decarb process, it still has a bunch of flavor and turns out pretty damn good if I say so myself
@herbivore21 @t-dub does it sound like I am getting all of the Methanol out?