I thought my first bucket heater broke, turns out it needed a deep clean with the bucket out. Still rockin.
My sai continues to sit in a drawer somewhere. I recently bought a dtv5 and that has sat idle while I procrastinate about getting AF loaded on a new mod. I think both these units are quality, but an erig set up is so much easier for me to grab and use without issues. No hassles of resistances and mod settings and creating a 510 jenga setup with a separate bubbler. A lot of people enjoy the fine tuning of the mod experience, I have yet to captivated. Perhaps it's like cars. Some prefer a manual transmission to have greater control of the ride, while others just want to put it in Drive and go. Right now a dtv5 coil in a Core erig is my main driver, but for me it's more about the simplicity and convenience of the erig set up. Sai parts, and many other Crossing tech parts, have been hard to come by lately. I believe HVT has recently started restocking parts.After owning this damn thing for 3-4 years, I finally have a decent functioning setup with it again. My history with this atomizer goes way back to the prehistoric era, where we just had kanthal or SS wrapped around quartz/ceramic (or miracle coils if you felt like wasting wax). And honestly, I kinda hated the damn thing back then. But then the donuts dropped, and finally I had a decently functional setup for the first time. Unfortunately, that mod occasionally shared the sai with a 65W ecig tank, and after forgetting to switch profiles once I had the hit of my life on the sai where I popped the donut coil.
Ah well. By that time, the titanium bucket had dropped, as well as the og poseidon, so I decided to take the plunge and upgrade to the bucket setup. I forget whether the TAF tops weren't an option yet or if I just cheaped out thinking I'd never use them, but in either event, I ended up with a bucket and bubbler and was pretty content for awhile. Unfortunately, the bubbler eventually broke, and I switched to using flower mainly instead for awhile...
Eventually though, I dug my arctic fox mod and sai out of the closet and started messing with it again. While I was getting decent hits every once in awhile, I was having major stability issues with the temp control (the thing would get up to temp then suddenly spike in resistance until I repressed the button, then repeat), and I've been having to just hold a 18mm glass adapter for a whip over the bucket as a sort of top airflow mouthpiece (works surprisingly well if you don't mind the jet engine draw), so it was just generally a fussy pain to use.
Well, today, I summoned the courage (or maybe just got annoyed enough?) to take apart the firing pin, after seeing a post on reddit with someone else having a similar TC glitch with their DTv5 and people recommending they rebuild. And sure enough, when I removed the firing pin from the coil, I found the insulator had burned slightly on one part where one of the leads was making contact. I moved that lead to a different spot away from the burn and went ahead and reinstalled everything, and once the sai was on my mod it suddenly read a lower resistance than I've ever seen (previously cold would read around .85 ohm or so, now reading .72). I went ahead and switched over to the premade profile I'd found that previously just yielded glitched results, and found it was actually working properly!
While I'm still having to deal with the fussy glass stem setup for now, I'll hopefully be able to pick up a TAF cap and some new o-rings to start using again. I'll also be on the lookout for a replacement for the poseidon (since it looks like the bubbler hvt sells only fits the sequoia, and I don't really want a hydrotube).
Anyone have any recs for decent bubblers that fit the sai? And what's the consensus on quartz v titanium bucket coils? Are there aftermarket coils for this thing people prefer now? Basically, catch up a sai owner that froze in time 3 years ago
True that. Man, those old twisted coils were such a pain. If they were shipping some large claptons that actually filled the ceramic trough I would've probably been somewhat content, but the tiny coils they were actually using would often end up just splattering as much of a load on the sides as it would actually vaporize. And the miracle coils seemed to only be good at the miracle of making your concentrate vanish. I think those allegedly required a big load like .15-.25g to function properly but I feel like even when I added more they still put out next to no vapor.
Work your way up 28w should hit nice ,I use my Sai plus at 35w and pulse the button
I think they say 25W to give you a cutoff point where you're unlikely to break the coil. Using temperature control, wattages all the way up to 40W can be used pretty safely, but you can't continuously fire when you get that high.
On my Voopoo Drag I use the TI coil/bucket combo in wattage mode, because I can’t be arsed to download the firmware update for TCR. I set it around 32 watts, it produces huge vapor when pulsing, and so far the coil seems fine…I’ve been using it at this level for months.
humboldtvapetech.com
I do not have a sic cup but you mentioned pins and the pin on my Sai+ atomizer decided to remove itself and is stuck in the box mod...I got it out and put it back in the atomizer after cleaning all the reclaim out of every thing but the Atomizer will not work /connect to the box..any idea on a fix or just buy a new one ?Anyone else happen to notice that SiC coils are listed for the Sai on HVT now?
Top Airflow SiC Cup & Heater
Top Airflow SiC Bucket and heater for TAF Diffuser. These buckets are made of durable Silicone Carbide, for great hits and easy cleaning. For best results use in TC-Ni, 420 to 450 degrees F, and 28 to 35W. Heater is included! Will also work with Poseidon Bubbler.
Really curious how well these perform. They also have a listing for the flat heater without a cup so you can add your own quartz/SiC dish, but I don't see the SiC dish listed alone on the site anywhere.
I've gotta admit, the main thing holding me back is my past experiences with coils. I'd hate to drop $50 on one of these only to have to rebuild the 510 pin multiple times just to try to get it to work right. The coil I've had those issues with though was much older (~2018 I think?) so those issues may have been fixed over time.
EDIT: Now that I'm thinking about it, the move might be to get 1 quartz and 1 SiC coil at the same time, since it sounds like the heater is identical in both. Then, if your sic base gives you a ton of issues, just swap the bucket with the quartz base. Gives you a nice backup for heater inconsistency without having to spend SiC money twice.
I had a similar problem with the sequoia. In my case the spring in the pin failed, the shop I bought from knew about this issue and just sent me a replacement pin and it's been fine since
So, I wrote up this whole big fancy explanation of how to reassemble coils, only to then reread your post and realize that more than likely you're talking about the pin on the atomizer base itself... lol. I'll go ahead and leave my other writeup here for anyone dealing with broken Sai coils, but apologies if this doesn't actually help fix your issue. For the pin I think you're talking about, first make sure the insulator got reinstalled properly. Not sure if the Sai+ has the same setup as the sai TAF, but on the sai I own that ring is formed kinda weird and takes a bit of messing with to properly get back into position. Also, be wary of overtightening coils, as this can sometimes cause issues with the 510 connector in the coil itself. Once the coil is snug, it's pretty much good as far as tightening goes, I wouldn't be trying to crank it down until it no longer moves. Test another tank on the mod too just to ensure that it's not the mod having issues. I would also experiment with reinstalling the coil to the Sai base both on and off the atomizer to see if that makes a difference.
). I figured if I break this poseidon the WPA adapter will provide a nice backup, and the carb cap that comes with it will be nice to use on the poseidon too. I absolutely can't wait to get back into hot loading; Nothing really compares to dropping a nice dab into a 15-20 second preheated bucket.). I don't have experience with DNA mods though, maybe one of those already has this functionality baked-in somehow. It shouldn't be a hard functionality to implement, since from a software side you would just need to be able to write a new value to the target temp variable mid-puff and force the power output down by some percentage to make sure the temp starts going down immediately. It looks like the main reason it wasn't ever implemented in AF was lack of utility.
Bought one of these SIC buckets way back in March 2021 when they were briefly available on HVT for $59, jumped on it with all the vape ban talk at the time. Still haven’t used it, I should probably dig it out and give it a try.Anyone else happen to notice that SiC coils are listed for the Sai on HVT now?
Top Airflow SiC Cup & Heater
Top Airflow SiC Bucket and heater for TAF Diffuser. These buckets are made of durable Silicone Carbide, for great hits and easy cleaning. For best results use in TC-Ni, 420 to 450 degrees F, and 28 to 35W. Heater is included! Will also work with Poseidon Bubbler.
Really curious how well these perform. They also have a listing for the flat heater without a cup so you can add your own quartz/SiC dish, but I don't see the SiC dish listed alone on the site anywhere.
I've gotta admit, the main thing holding me back is my past experiences with coils. I'd hate to drop $50 on one of these only to have to rebuild the 510 pin multiple times just to try to get it to work right. The coil I've had those issues with though was much older (~2018 I think?) so those issues may have been fixed over time.
EDIT: Now that I'm thinking about it, the move might be to get 1 quartz and 1 SiC coil at the same time, since it sounds like the heater is identical in both. Then, if your sic base gives you a ton of issues, just swap the bucket with the quartz base. Gives you a nice backup for heater inconsistency without having to spend SiC money twice.
From what I understand, in theory it should be the best sai coil. SiC has really good flavor, right there alongside/better than quartz, but it's both insanely durable and pretty thermally conductive so it heats fast. Basically mixes the best mechanical properties of Titanium with the flavor of Quartz.
What should I keep in mind for the best performance? As far as I can tell it looks like a 25mm would be the best size, but I'm not sure how far the airflow nozzle should ideally come down. Would spinners be worth messing with, or does the small bucket diameter of the sai make it really only suited for directional caps? Should I be looking for a tip that would end up stopping just above the bucket, go slightly inside, or stay pretty far away?
If I’m understanding what it is you’re looking for:Bad news: VPS had an inventory issue, so the WPA won't be coming after all :/ while I was definitely planning on getting a lot more mileage out of the poseidon, it's definitely disappointing that I won't have the wpa around as a backup, especially since I can't find it listed on any other retailer's site.
If anyone happens to have a link for another US seller carrying the WPA (the bottomless banger style one, not the glass mouthpiece tip), please send it my way. I'd think that type of hose adapter should be available generically somewhere too, but I'm not really sure what to search for to find it. From what I understand it's just a 19mm ID glass tube with a 3/8 hose adapter on the side.
I'm also now in the market for a bubble cap for the poseidon
Basically, if you've used a few carb caps with your Sai, let me know which ones worked best for you. I have no experience messing with bubble caps (in a standard rig or with an erig like this) so any and all advice is appreciated
Those BBs will definitely do the job I'm after, especially with the setup @Clapped_r6 mentioned, pairing a J-hook with it (and I wouldn't have to be concerned with splashback!). What would ideally be absolutely perfect is one of those BBs with the 90 deg bend upside down so that you could mount a nectar collector bubbler to it. All the BBs I've found online look like they have that air inlet positioned further towards the top, so if you flipped the banger upside down the inlet would end up right next to the o-rings (or worst case, right on the o-rings) which I'd rather avoid.If I’m understanding what it is you’re looking for:
I'm sure the variety between dry piece and bubbler will still be nice.
I put the 510mod BB with the 14 facing up, and attach an upside down jhook. Fragile and science experiment looking, but flavor town. I got tired of scorching rosin on my Core so this is my dedicated rosin rig.Those BBs will definitely do the job I'm after, especially with the setup @Clapped_r6
But honestly, thinking about just how hard a j-hook dry rig would rip... I'll just pick up one of the bangers from DHgate and start looking for a hook
EDIT: looking at pairing something like this banger with this hook for a killer dry setup. I'll see if OGB can bend the top one extra time so the mouthpiece tip comes at a more flat angle. Honestly, I should've just went with this setup instead of the poseidon
Which coil are you using? Keep in mind with any of the bucket coils there will be a pretty steep warm-up time (for Titanium around 4-5 seconds, for quartz even longer), so after you press the button down wait a few seconds before actually drawing. Try to avoid drawing too hard as well, as this can splash the concentrate over to the sides and prevent it from being heated properly.
Hehe, sounds like a pretty beautiful experimental setup, although I'm looking for something that would be a lot more vertical than horizontal, so unfortunately sherlock J-hooks wouldn't work too well :/ I'm most likely gonna end up going with that OGB hook I linked above, since that'll really fulfil the sort of "dry poseidon" form factor I'm going for.
I'm with you on this. I'm still trying to play around and haven't gotten anything good yet for just wattage mode. I was seeing if there was an artic fox profile or something similar I could use? I got DNA75, HCigar if that helps.
