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Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

Bad Dog

Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
thank you oh great an powerful splinter whisperer @bossman if I fall love with the splinter I'm sure I'll upgrade my mod at some point if for no other reason than I think Red Panda sounds cool:dog: hope this rabbit hole isn't too deep I don't want to fall into wonderland:razz: for now the rim c looks like a good option for me, being a micro doser one battery will probably take me trough a day depending on how much temp stepping I do, plus if I'm using it exclusively and swapping a cell is no prob.
 

FearAndLawyering

Well-Known Member
> it starts to sag and become less responsive

this is a perfect way of putting it. it’s more noticeable the further you try to push on combustion. eventually the power drops to a point it starts to seesaw back and forth, overcompensating… your power steering goes out and then start oversteering.

many nights i’ve gaslight myself about the performance of a device and it was just the batteries being like 5-10% lower than they needed to be. this will become even more noticeable as the batteries wear. i think about 1 year is a good benchmark for replacing them if you value your sanity lol
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
thank you oh great an powerful splinter whisperer @bossman if I fall love with the splinter I'm sure I'll upgrade my mod at some point if for no other reason than I think Red Panda sounds cool:dog: hope this rabbit hole isn't too deep I don't want to fall into wonderland:razz: for now the rim c looks like a good option for me, being a micro doser one battery will probably take me trough a day depending on how much temp stepping I do, plus if I'm using it exclusively and swapping a cell is no prob.
Pm me your email address when you get the Rim C and I'll send you an Arctic Fox config file for the Splinter :tup:
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
@Bad Dog, one of the recommendations that hasn't come up lately, for a new rbt (unregulated) owner, is to go with straight wattage mode at first, using a standard stem (not a cooling thing). Old school, the way Ryan intended and blah, blah, blah. It gives you a great feel for what the vape is capable of. You may even scorch a bowl or two, but that's part of the learning curve. I think it may also help to focus just on this vape for a week or two and not bounce around your 'arsenal'.

Or dive right into the deep end.
It took me months to want to fuck with a box mod settings, and yes, I do use Red Panda, tcr mode now, but I was quite intimidated at first.
The AF and RP at least let you make settings on a PC with a human-size screen and more sensible interface. I'd be nowhere without that. I really still dislike the tiny buttons and millions of options on box mods.

My little Splinter V1+ (a V2 but in V1 wood, clear glass) has been serving well for years now, lately quite a bit, subbing in for the Bowle that is in for service. I use a Wismec Ravage 230 with Red Panda.

*Aside*
Using AF or RP there is a toggle/setting to set and lock "PID". Someone long ago recommended this and gave me a value to use, and I did set that. The performance graphs in the NT Toolbox/Performance Manager interface leveled right off to very calm-looking graphs (the graphic output is real-time, very cool); some values spike off the charts when PID is not locked.

True confessions, Idk what PID is, but I do like the performance, and my Splinter has been so dialed in that all I ever really set is on/off and sometimes temp. Even my wife likes it now...but the only instruction she knows is to "push and hold the button"!

I guess this PID thing is very analogous to the debate about whether or not to lock resistance?
It is a relief that I no longer really wonder about these things, having stumbled onto a profile that works for me. I'm the blind squirrel who found the nut!
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
PXL-20220511-003355530.jpg


Well I whipped out my purpleheart Z on the bronze RX DNA250 for the first time in unfortunately maybe over a year?:whoa: I had left the three paired Samsung 30Q inside it, as was always the plan, since it is a three pair and I have two bay chargers, after the initial charge, to just keep them in the mod and charge that way, forgetting how long it had been! So they are actually working fine, it is just that the screen on the mod has been drained, so it is very dim now, only when pressing the fire button it becomes a bit brighter so you can see it... Lucky that at least! Need to be more careful, and get a case for the triple pair if the downtime is going to be that long for the future (to catch up, this had been my least favorite Z, for some reason just didn't seem like as good a build as my other previous custom canary, although I also know PH wood can have more imparted flavors potentially although it is hardly in the air path here so I would blame the build since each one is a little unique anyway but also the mod is big and heavy as well) However I do really like the look of it, the purpleheart wood with the bronze mod, very nice superficial style, right? And the mod itself is extremely ergonomic actually, since it is larger than two battery mods which are a little small in the hand, unfortunately it is so much heavier though and that kind of ruins it lol

Anyway it is still working well, it could be that it is a little too tamed down on this mod with these settings, I never really tried it on another mod with wattage or anything so maybe it needs more of a proper burn in still...? (it had been heavily used at high temps though, anyway I might have done wattage burn in originally I don't remember even it's been so long) So the vapor quality is not the best when dry, but I was using it through one of my newer small water pieces at high temp and small bowls with 19/19 WPA in the sea turtle orb and GooRoo 3piece bubbler, sort of visible above, and watching the vapor fill that way it was quite effective actually! Not sure I could ever sell it, not sure it will see heavy regular rotation use though so I should still store the batteries outside probably to preserve the mod life...

In my testing, I took out my ZV1 on purple ravage red panda, to compare and this one was always a little more tamed as well (compared to my ZV2) which was also a nice experience through the small sea turtle orb and GooRoo 3piece bubbler, using the same weed same setup etc, the purpleheart may actually have the superior vape for quality after all lol hard to tell between them and the blackwood ZV2 (that one is now set up with arctic fox predator on a fearandlawyering base which seems to be the best for it, balanced tamely and beastly now, whereas before it was harder to control on the red panda mods) honestly... So this inspired me to finally get the original canary wood Z on red panda ravage to see what top vapor quality temp control would be like finally since it had been living on wattage surmyevic RXgen3D (where it was even used for convection dabs and generally high level through water quick hits) :freak:

PXL-20220522-200928148.jpg

Well it only confirms that it is the best after all! Smooth setup, coincidentally it was already locked to the right cold resistance, providing accurate temp control out of the gate and beautiful appearance...:luv:

PXL-20220522-203749709.jpg

I love canary wood (this was actually my first) a lot for the rainbows of pinks and reds that are inside the golden yellows of the grain (occasionally you can even see some blues) and was going to move it to a purple G3D before getting on the red panda ravage train, scoring the purple I loved too, the ZV1 had been on it until now, it belongs to this canary wood Z! :D

PXL-20220522-204542998.jpg

So this was a bowl of lemon cake, through the medium 508Phineas stem in a lovely matching purple glass (I have a shorty in the clearer pink glass that is great with milaana) that I started at 340f for a light starter hit as is typical with these, then another at 350 with some more vapor, one at 360 as you saw in the photo about that was great, thick and tasty without darkening the herb, I took another at 360 before jumping to 380 for two and then 390 then 400 with one hit at each (checking the load after each hit and reinserting so the stem was getting turned)... Tasted toasted, but didn't look too dark, so I dumped it on the table, carefully in a line, I could tell by looking at it and feeling it there was more to go, so I sucked it back up into the stem like a straw, in the reverse order I dumped it (if you can do this, it is the best way to stir imo) I then added a little bit of fresh green on top since there was room in the basket and I like to get a little more flavor as I finish a bowl this way... Turned it up to 420 for 3 more hits and dumped after the 4th as it tasted gnarly and done by my goal line! Reminded me why this is a great setup, all around really great session, and I forgot to mention yesterday I did do a couple hits through the GooRoo 3piece at high temp when I first put it on the new mod, so it still works great through water too! I will be working this canary ravage Z back into the regular rotation... :nod::brow::cool:
 
Last edited:

eideal852

Well-Known Member
PXL-20220511-003355530.jpg


Well I whipped out my purpleheart Z on the bronze RX DNA250 for the first time in unfortunately maybe over a year?:whoa: I had left the three paired Samsung 30Q inside it, as was always the plan, since it is a three pair and I have two bay chargers, after the initial charge, to just keep them in the mod and charge that way, forgetting how long it had been! So they are actually working fine, it is just that the screen on the mod has been drained, so it is very dim now, only when pressing the fire button it becomes a bit brighter so you can see it... Lucky that at least! Need to be more careful, and get a case for the triple pair if the downtime is going to be that long for the future (to catch up, this had been my least favorite Z, for some reason just didn't seem like as good a build as my other previous custom canary, although I also know PH wood can have more imparted flavors potentially although it is hardly in the air path here so I would blame the build since each one is a little unique anyway but also the mod is big and heavy as well) However I do really like the look of it, the purpleheart wood with the bronze mod, very nice superficial style, right? And the mod itself is extremely ergonomic actually, since it is larger than two battery mods which are a little small in the hand, unfortunately it is so much heavier though and that kind of ruins it lol

Anyway it is still working well, it could be that it is a little too tamed down on this mod with these settings, I never really tried it on another mod with wattage or anything so maybe it needs more of a proper burn in still...? (it had been heavily used at high temps though, anyway I might have done wattage burn in originally I don't remember even it's been so long) So the vapor quality is not the best when dry, but I was using it through one of my newer small water pieces at high temp and small bowls with 19/19 WPA in the sea turtle orb and GooRoo 3piece bubbler, sort of visible above, and watching the vapor fill that way it was quite effective actually! Not sure I could ever sell it, not sure it will see heavy regular rotation use though so I should still store the batteries outside probably to preserve the mod life...

In my testing, I took out my ZV1 on purple ravage red panda, to compare and this one was always a little more tamed as well (compared to my ZV2) which was also a nice experience through the small sea turtle orb and GooRoo 3piece bubbler, using the same weed same setup etc, the purpleheart may actually have the superior vape for quality after all lol hard to tell between them and the blackwood ZV2 (that one is now set up with arctic fox predator on a fearandlawyering base which seems to be the best for it, balanced tamely and beastly now, whereas before it was harder to control on the red panda mods) honestly... So this inspired me to finally get the original canary wood Z on red panda ravage to see what top vapor quality temp control would be like finally since it had been living on wattage surmyevic RXgen3D (where it was even used for convection dabs and generally high level through water quick hits) :freak:

PXL-20220522-200928148.jpg

Well it only confirms that it is the best after all! Smooth setup, coincidentally it was already locked to the right cold resistance, providing accurate temp control out of the gate and beautiful appearance...:luv:

PXL-20220522-203749709.jpg

I love canary wood (this was actually my first) a lot for the rainbows of pinks and reds that are inside the golden yellows of the grain (occasionally you can even see some blues) and was going to move it to a purple G3D before getting on the red panda ravage train, scoring the purple I loved too, the ZV1 had been on it until now, it belongs to this canary wood Z! :D

PXL-20220522-204542998.jpg

So this was a bowl of lemon cake, through the medium 508Phineas stem in a lovely matching purple glass (I have a shorty in the clearer pink glass that is great with milaana) that I started at 340f for a light starter hit as is typical with these, then another at 350 with some more vapor, one at 360 as you saw in the photo about that was great, thick and tasty without darkening the herb, I took another at 360 before jumping to 380 for two and then 390 then 400 with one hit at each (checking the load after each hit and reinserting so the stem was getting turned)... Tasted toasted, but didn't look too dark, so I dumped it on the table, carefully in a line, I could tell by looking at it and feeling it there was more to go, so I sucked it back up into the stem like a straw, in the reverse order I dumped it (if you can do this, it is the best way to stir imo) I then added a little bit of fresh green on top since there was room in the basket and I like to get a little more flavor as I finish a bowl this way... Turned it up to 420 for 3 more hits and dumped after the 4th as it tasted gnarly and done by my goal line! Reminded me why this is a great setup, all around really great session, and I forgot to mention yesterday I did do a couple hits through the GooRoo 3piece at high temp when I first put it on the new mod, so it still works great through water too! I will be working this canary ravage Z back into the regular rotation... :nod::brow::cool:
no details?
:rofl:
 
scusa ma dove puoi comprare uno Splinter Z V2? Lo cerco da mesi ma almeno in Europa non lo trovo disponibile magari anche in qualche mercatino?. grazie a chi mi risponderà. Ho una Fenix e una Tera ma...
 
Sidvicius,

Franco

is (most likely) vaping
grazie mille a tutti cercavo qualcosa che avesse un attacco 510 da usare ai box, il tinymight invece viene fornito con la batteria corretta? Lo studio un momento
This is also a good choice to pair with a mod box. Not really in the Splinter league, but a good choice nonetheless

ETA: totally forgot!! Look for Cosmic Extractor, they are made by @FearAndLawyering
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
My order arrived from Good Vibes Boro on Instagram (aka iPodMike on Reddit) with plenty of RBT compatible glass (joints cut down to 19/19 so they can safely fit all of my gear perfectly since there is a lot of variance in the female glass across my collection) and an awesome glass scoop and poke tool (photo posted in the BCG thread) Such beautiful high quality work :nod: :haw: :luv::bowdown:

This opaque white spiked bent cooling stem is so gorgeous and unique, it has stripes of caribbean blue, acid yellow, and bubblegum pink, that are laid on top adding texture:
PXL-20220619-225754612.jpg


This 18-18 WPA is easily the nicest one I have now, the handle is karmeline with purple lollipop swirl and has great texture:
PXL-20220620-222318717.jpg


And the main event, caribbean blue beaded jayhook, with matching 18-14 WPA (had him try making the handle out of stacked beads and he killed it) since the hook is 14mm female... He gave the mouthpiece a slight narrow taper that is pretty perfect as well:
PXL-20220620-222237747.jpg


He has even more options for RBT stems, I think these are pretty must have accessories actually, and different from Phineas too, I ordered on 420 so expect like a 2-month wait for him to get to your name on the list? You don't pay until everything in your order is ready though... very highly recommended!:cool:
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
wtf is this candy ? how much it cost? :o

Haha yeah, saltwater taffy style! :drool::brow:

This was one he made for fun playing around, so I don't know if that made it cheaper, also it was 20% off for 420, so I think you can expect like $50 retail for a stem like this, although it may be more if you also want these stripes of color added...

He has some options, for ordering these and other styles, made to order through O'Connell Woodworks, there are more limited choices in those drop-down menus, but if you write in the comments and then talk to him, you can probably have it customized however you like... And that can help give you a sense of the pricing too?

But I highly recommend just reaching out to him on IG, to get the most accurate pricing and options, for exactly what you want! :tup:
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
Still using the V2 most days. Oftentimes my TCR does not work so I've been using it at a high wattage similar to the Milaana. It works much better in TCR but I find it tedious. It works plenty well in wattage, I use the stock stem for feedback.
i go back and forth.
sometimes i feel tcr with a long heat soak is best
and other times i think a higher wattage nice quick hit is best

think they both offer something nice
 

FearAndLawyering

Well-Known Member
TCR, with high wattage :D i know ryan always cautioned against higher wattage but i think thats because of customer support/warranty issues. sure the best drivers of the best cars use manual, but imagine if automatic transmissions didnt exist. with TCR consider wattage the acceleration and temp/resistance/TCR form the top speed.

I'd caution against heat soaking these. I think their strength lies in generating a lot of heat quickly and not building it up in the unit. for repairing and removing the glass, I use hot air - the glue breaks down with heat. a high % of splinter units seem to fail and have the glass fall out - its the heat soak imo.

proper TCR, generate a lot of heat, pull it fast off the unit... key to a longer functioning device. my 2c
 

davap84

Well-Known Member
I'd caution against heat soaking these. I think their strength lies in generating a lot of heat quickly and not building it up in the unit. for repairing and removing the glass, I use hot air - the glue breaks down with heat. a high % of splinter units seem to fail and have the glass fall out - its the heat soak imo.
Hot hair like this ?
21.fd.9f.H1BoschHeissluftfoehn10091510.JPG

How du you use it ? From the top ? At wich temp, please ?
 
davap84,

FearAndLawyering

Well-Known Member
I use something called an SMD hot air rework station, but they work very similar. its adjustable temp and airflow. I think its set to 1/3 air flow and 600 degrees. Just be sure to move it around a lot and to pull on the glass occasionally so it only gets as hot as it needs to. wrap the wooden body with a microfiber cloth or towel to insulate against unnecessary heat on the outside
 

davap84

Well-Known Member
Many-many thanks (towell is a great tip).

600° is F (i'm in UE) ?

An for gluing, i don't have find the medical grade glue. I saw that some fellows have used JB Weld, with one mounth curing. Is it okay ? Is there an alternative easily available ?
 
davap84,

FearAndLawyering

Well-Known Member
yeah i think it’s in F

i dunno i wouldn’t use anything that isn’t specifically medical grade personally. the one canik linked is a popular alternative
 
FearAndLawyering,
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davap84

Well-Known Member
Many thanks. But with shipping cost to France, it's 111$. Quite huge for me (and many). Thx again.
yeah i think it’s in F

i dunno i wouldn’t use anything that isn’t specifically medical grade personally. the one canik linked is a popular alternative
The medical grade is hard to find here.
There is this ref, but i will need to find a nozzle or a gun. Quite expensive, too.

The 2 vents in wood are below the gluing zone. I imagine that air intake aren't in contact with the glue. It could be safe with JB Weld. Or not ?

Thanks for your help. I may need to think about it again.
An amazing opportunity for a procrastinator like me.:brow:
 
davap84,
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