Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/CC/FW7/OAB
PXL-20211003-001237734.jpg


Need to get it dialed in, this ZV2 runs hot, the resistance here came set at 0.45 for the Z profile, I was running 0.41 on my red panda espeon and it was still hot lol this bowl I had a hit at 380, another at 364, another 348, blackened by then and for me personally I want to avoid that! This mod and base setup however, well it is indeed pretty nice...:nod::D Thanks again @FearAndLawyering! :bowdown: :cool:
 

CanikUser19

Trenchtown Rock
PXL-20211003-001237734.jpg


NeedI to get it dialed in, this ZV2 runs hot, the resistance here came set at 0.45 for the Z profile, I was running 0.41 on my red panda espeon and it was still hot lol this bowl I had a hit at 380, another at 364, another 348, blackened by then and for me personally I want to avoid that! This mod and base setup however, well it is indeed pretty nice...:nod::D Thanks again @FearAndLawyering! :bowdown: :cool:
I’m not opposed to this set up by any means. In fact I’m very intrigued. Is the main advantage the desktop/handsfree type experience? Or am I missing other advantages?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/CC/FW7/OAB
I’m not opposed to this set up by any means. In fact I’m very intrigued. Is the main advantage the desktop/handsfree type experience? Or am I missing other advantages?

Oh, well for me not that, though that could be one! I like to use mine upside down, so I don't have to worry about any crumbs falling, and I am usually using through a J hook or water, so this is much more comfortable to hold and ergonomic form factor with whatever glass piece... Yeah it makes everything more stable and compact, shorter, he does offer different bases for different mods I believe, though these are what he has available selling right now!
 

FearAndLawyering

Well-Known Member
ergonomics is the main thing. i find it to be much nicer to use, almost like a cup of coffee. there’s an air gap between the heater and the mod/batteries. it is shorter and wider so i feel less worried about the mod falling over/breakage. a splinter on a mod with a cooling stem is very tall and narrow.

I like to hold the stem and spin the base/mod as i hit it, get more even extraction. it is more balanced for using upside down with a wpa.

summarize: easier to use, and extend the durability of your mod/splinter

you will need to relock cold ohms when switching splinters
 
Last edited:

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
Some of those were repairs for people / werent mine to sell (if you look closely you can see some of the regular splinters with replacement 22 or 26 glass poking out). Some of those are already spoken for - Z's are long gone. I'll probably kit the other regular splinters out.

I do have extra paired mods+bases though. Im moving in a different direction though as I sell through inventory. Bought a bunch of woodworking and metalworking tools lol.

Sneak peak:

What's up with the heater internals in that first pic? They look like they've been sitting in hard water, or is it just the lighting?
 
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FearAndLawyering

Well-Known Member
What's up with the heater internals in that first pic? They look like they've been sitting in hard water, or is it just the lighting?
white dust on the glass? these are a work in progress shot (pre grinding the inside for the oven screens) and before cleaning (it’s dust from cutting)
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/CC/FW7/OAB
PXL-20211003-194054990.jpg


Oh yeah, got it dialed in now I think, locked my resistance to .419Ω and watts limit to 50w, 380F through a hook then 440F through water (check the cheap glass thread for more photos and details on this nice new heady aquatic rig I got from china), working well with autofire for around 15 second hits... Finally this ZV2 can really shine!
 

mchilty

Member
What TCR are you running with with these latest settings?

PXL-20211003-194054990.jpg


Oh yeah, got it dialed in now I think, locked my resistance to .419Ω and watts limit to 50w, 380F through a hook then 440F through water (check the cheap glass thread for more photos and details on this nice new heady aquatic rig I got from china), working well with autofire for around 15 second hits... Finally this ZV2 can really shine!
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/CC/FW7/OAB
PSA
Screenshot-20211014-112547.png
 

Notacaveman

Well-Known Member
Could never get temperature regulation to work well with my splinter z, the temp always dropped so much on the inhale so the mod was just always running 50w to the heater and it would get too hot and eventually combust, couldn't figure out how to fix it so I've just been using wattage on a clunky double 21700 mod, (squid industries tac-21) for the battery life, still been really loving it.

Anyway i was on vapefiend a couple of days ago looking at stems and saw they had 2 bubinga splinter z's and a few black splinters for sale, must've been dead stock, impulse purchased a splinter z and wismec Rx gen 3 dual against my girlfriend's better judgement, flashed arctic fox the other day and just been using recommended settings, (I think TCR 130, locked cold resistance and max wattage at 55), and I've been blown away by the performance, it holds temperature really well and allows for monster hits, enjoying it more than the p80.

When I screw a splinter onto the mod the resistance seems to constantly adjust, is this normal? Happens with both splinters, when they're both cold, it will vary from .37 to .42 randomly, I'm guessing this is common and a non-issue if the resistance is locked?

Also, if the mentioned TCR settings are too aggressive for the other splinter and make it combust, would it make sense to reduce the resistance value or the TCR value untill performance seems about right? Been playing around but can't seem to get it to hold temp.

I am obsessed with these convection portables lol, probably a good thing they are hard to get and there's not many lol, it's an expensive hobby.
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Could never get temperature regulation to work well with my splinter z, the temp always dropped so much on the inhale so the mod was just always running 50w to the heater and it would get too hot and eventually combust, couldn't figure out how to fix it so I've just been using wattage on a clunky double 21700 mod, (squid industries tac-21) for the battery life, still been really loving it.

Anyway i was on vapefiend a couple of days ago looking at stems and saw they had 2 bubinga splinter z's and a few black splinters for sale, must've been dead stock, impulse purchased a splinter z and wismec Rx gen 3 dual against my girlfriend's better judgement, flashed arctic fox the other day and just been using recommended settings, (I think TCR 130, locked cold resistance and max wattage at 55), and I've been blown away by the performance, it holds temperature really well and allows for monster hits, enjoying it more than the p80.

When I screw a splinter onto the mod the resistance seems to constantly adjust, is this normal? Happens with both splinters, when they're both cold, it will vary from .37 to .42 randomly, I'm guessing this is common and a non-issue if the resistance is locked?

Also, if the mentioned TCR settings are too aggressive for the other splinter and make it combust, would it make sense to reduce the resistance value or the TCR value untill performance seems about right? Been playing around but can't seem to get it to hold temp.

I am obsessed with these convection portables lol, probably a good thing they are hard to get and there's not many lol, it's an expensive hobby.
Try the iHeat 510 way. you may like it. because the Z heater looks like the iHeat's heater, it worthes a shot.
TCR=290, 45W, Locked resistance with a value that is like 0.065~ less than your cold resistance. T=350F~
Please update here if it worked!
 

Cosmiccommie

New Member
Could never get temperature regulation to work well with my splinter z, the temp always dropped so much on the inhale so the mod was just always running 50w to the heater and it would get too hot and eventually combust, couldn't figure out how to fix it so I've just been using wattage on a clunky double 21700 mod, (squid industries tac-21) for the battery life, still been really loving it.

Anyway i was on vapefiend a couple of days ago looking at stems and saw they had 2 bubinga splinter z's and a few black splinters for sale, must've been dead stock, impulse purchased a splinter z and wismec Rx gen 3 dual against my girlfriend's better judgement, flashed arctic fox the other day and just been using recommended settings, (I think TCR 130, locked cold resistance and max wattage at 55), and I've been blown away by the performance, it holds temperature really well and allows for monster hits, enjoying it more than the p80.

When I screw a splinter onto the mod the resistance seems to constantly adjust, is this normal? Happens with both splinters, when they're both cold, it will vary from .37 to .42 randomly, I'm guessing this is common and a non-issue if the resistance is locked?

Also, if the mentioned TCR settings are too aggressive for the other splinter and make it combust, would it make sense to reduce the resistance value or the TCR value untill performance seems about right? Been playing around but can't seem to get it to hold temp.

I am obsessed with these convection portables lol, probably a good thing they are hard to get and there's not many lol, it's an expensive hobby.
Yo man - try to loosen slightly, then re-tighten the screw on the bottom of the splinter.

It's normal for the resistance to slowly drop as you break them in, in my experience. But it maybe shouldn't be jumping all over like that.

Idk if that'll help or not but I hope it does.
 

Notacaveman

Well-Known Member
Try the iHeat 510 way. you may like it. because the Z heater looks like the iHeat's heater, it worthes a shot.
TCR=290, 45W, Locked resistance with a value that is like 0.065~ less than your cold resistance. T=350F~
Please update here if it worked!
I just copied that exactly and it seems to work for both splinters quite well, thank you for the suggestion!
Yo man - try to loosen slightly, then re-tighten the screw on the bottom of the splinter.

It's normal for the resistance to slowly drop as you break them in, in my experience. But it maybe shouldn't be jumping all over like that.

Idk if that'll help or not but I hope it does.
I will try that and see if anything changes thanks.
 

CanikUser19

Trenchtown Rock
I just copied that exactly and it seems to work for both splinters quite well, thank you for the suggestion!

I will try that and see if anything changes thanks.
Idk man, I was caught up trying to understand all of the science behind the settings when I got my Splinters. Has always been some back and forth on locked vs. unlocked resistances in AF/RP in this thread. Trying to understand the science was negatively impacting my enjoyment of the vapes. Last December I took up @bossman offer of using his settings for his Splinters. I installed those and stuck with his suggestion to leave resistance unlocked. I have not had to mess with any settings in all this time since doing so, and my Splinters happily chug along every time I pick them up.

Also, each one of my Splinters has it’s own dedicated RP mod, so there’s no constant screwing them on and off mods. I vape in the low temps, staying between 340-400 chasing flavor. I’ve never combusted and ABV is almost always spot on, sometimes gets a little more cooked in the middle depending on how I’m drawing at the time, but I only notice as that’s when the basket is spent and I’m dumping it out.
 

StringTheorista

Well-Known Member
Hello, FCers. New to this thread, been around FC on dynavap and Neo threads for a while.

I just came into a splinter from a friend, and I’m wondering whether anyone has used the DDave metal stem (stainless or titanium). I’m intrigued, but also wonder if it’s a good fit, and if it gets too hot
Thanks
 

NimChimpsky

Well-Known Member
Hello, FCers. New to this thread, been around FC on dynavap and Neo threads for a while.

I just came into a splinter from a friend, and I’m wondering whether anyone has used the DDave metal stem (stainless or titanium). I’m intrigued, but also wonder if it’s a good fit, and if it gets too hot
Thanks
Yea its okay, not my favorite, but its indestructible, easily takes rimless screens cause the joint isn't tapered inside and the Rogue dyna condersor fits perfectly. I too prefer my wood stems.
 
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