Fuck world peace, never gonna happen(Currently listening to Orwell's 1984). But some of us aren't at war.
We have covered wood density, somewhat. But wood density isn't the only factor as I mentioned. Very dense woods like Pink Ivory and Ebony (and dense Myrtlewood) will lower the delivered temperature, by a little. The lower R-Value of these dense woods allow heat to be transmitted more quickly to the outside, you might call it a heat sink effect. But it only lowers the temperature by a few (2-3 F) degrees (IME).
Pammy uses a Pink Ivory unit and a East Indian Rosewood unit on 12 Volts all the time. I prefer Cherry or Walnut because they run a few degrees warmer. The warmer temperatures in the Cherry and Walnut are not harsh or smoke-like. Matter of fact, I will only 'smoke' when obligated to by custom (a few times a year at most), never out of preference.
So even with denser woods (Myrtlewood prototypes and exotics) the PD heat exchanger performs well, but wasn't exactly what I was after for a commercial product.
That brings up the other factor that I mentioned earlier, the Heat Exchanger. From the start I could see that the simple geometry of the Aromazap heat exchanger could be improved and modern materials could be used. Never gonna say the A-zap design doesn't work, it does, we enjoyed one for a couple of years. But, I saw room for improvement.
I have mentioned 'delivered heat' a couple of times. The Aromazap/Myrtlezap uses the same value resistor and same input Voltage as the Purple-Days Diffuser. Therefor it can be assumed the two heat sinks are getting the same BTU (heat) input*.
BTUs transfered into to the air-stream is the difference. Simple geometry of the Aromazap heat exchanger vs. Complex geometry of the Purple-Days heat exchanger.
The 'at rest' temperatures of the heat exchangers (minus any variation produced by insulation, etc.) are going to be pretty equal. That heat has to be transferred to the air-stream. How better to transfer heat than with fins? Look at any car radiator, or heat sink on a computer or stereo or other device intended to give up heat to air. Fins!
And 5 separate heat sinks. And tighter vapor path. And smaller/fewer intakes for turbulence. All contribute to a greater heat transfer rate. Delivered Temperature over the length of the draw was the goal and the result.
Increasing Voltage will increase input BTU and raise the temperature of the heat sink, but increased temperature was not what I was after. I was after increased temperature delivery.
*The Aromazap design uses a LED and associated circuitry. I believe this has a zero, or near zero, effect on the differences of the units.