Well, it's funny how many little projects one can find to do when you're down with an injury.
Today was no exception, so I took on a little project to resolve something that's been bugging me since I obtained my first Pax:
The Weighted Base Mod!!
I've seen that Ploom offers a weighted base...if you want to go spend ~$40 for another base and a 12v car charger. Not me, not a chance....
see my previous external battery mod tutorial earlier in this thread for more info on that (
this also explains the arch-like cutout in my base cover which you'll see in these images, to allow for a barrel connector, yours won't have this cutout unless
you've performed my battery mod).
It irked me that the base that comes with the unit is unweighted. It's very lightweight and slides around easily, particularly on a glass tabletop, etc. So I set out to resolve this issue. Sure, there are probably dozens of ways to accomplish this, but I wanted to make sure that my project:
- Uses things I had on hand
- Is completely reversible
- Looks decent and clean
- Provides even weight
- Provides enough weight
Well, that list narrows down the options considerably, but fortunately, I was able to meet all of those items on the list, so on with the modification tutorial!
Materials Used:
- 8 hex nuts (measured with a caliper, 4.6mm high by 10.6mm wide), the thread pitch is irrelevant here
- Quake Putty (this stuff is awesome to have on hand. Comes in a small envelope and is used to attach valuable items on shelves, etc, and is completely reversible, leaves no stains, etc. It's cheap, and unless you're building a museum, an envelope will probably last you a lifetime of small projects)
- Black Tape (I really hate using black tape for it's intended purpose and prefer solder and shrink tubing, but for this project it is perfect. Don't worry, we're not soldering or doing anything with wires!)
- A toothpick or 2, and a small flat blade screwdriver. (We will use these tools to clean up excess putty and for a bit of shaping)
Time to accomplish: 30 - 45 leisurely minutes start to finish
References:
- The top of the unit will be called
the cover
- The bottom part of the unit that separates from the cover will be called
the insert
1. Take apart the base. You can do this by turning the base over and sticking a thumbnail or other slim object in the seam where the top cover meets the bottom insert. There is no glue/adhesives/etc holding any of these parts together, they "snap" together.
I started at the barrel socket, stuck my thumbnail in there to separate the seam, and gently lifted up on the insert to lift it past the "snap" point. Holding that in place so it didn't return to a "snapped" position, I then did the opposite side in the same fashion, releasing the front side of the insert, and now carefully lifting it out of what is the top cover (the part you set your Pax on).
I then carefully popped out the green board from the insert by gently lifting at the barrel connector. It will come out, and you will have 3 pieces, shown below (never mind the hex nut for now,obviously not there on yours...yet
:
2. Using your Quake Putty, take 2 of the hex nuts, stack them, and roll up a little "snake" of putty that will fit down the hole, push it through, and using your fingers on both sides, squeeze the putty in there tightly. You want it to fill the threads tightly. Don't worry about excess at the moment, you will see that it's easily cleaned up with no mess.
Take your 2 hex nuts with the putty and make sure that one side has some putty on it to adhere the stack to the cover. You can clean up the hole facing you at anytime. Push them into place as shown in the image below. Don't use a giant glob to adhere it, just a thin coating is fine. Use the correct orientation to make it clean and stable with a flat side of the 2-nut-stack against the long side of the cover, as shown below (the flash washed out the detail of the hole, shown better in later pics):
3. Repeat Step 2, so you have (2) 2-nut-stacks side by side. Now take another small "snake" of putty and force it down into the triangle spaces along the sides of the cover where the "nut stacks" meet the sides. Push enough to fill the gaps tightly, and clean up the excess, as shown below:
4. Pack the 2 triangular spaces which are facing the insert with the putty as shown below. What you're going for here is to create a flat face, so bring the putty out to the edges just to the "points" of the nut stacks (sorry, the image is pretty blurry here, but you get the idea) NOTE where I didn't pack putty in to make a "perfect rectangle", I left those spaces to keep the end result clean, as you'll see in following pics:
5. Clean up any excess at this point. If you haven't yet, use the toothpicks and tiny flat screwdriver to clean up any excess. The above image doesn't show it very well, but you want nice clean lines, as best as you can get. Quake Putty cleans up really easy which you'll see...like a soft smooth rubber cement without all the sticky. Again, above image looks crappy, but the edges are flat and the excess is cleaned up.
6. Now take a strip of black tape, cut it to length (too much is better at this point, don't cut it too short!), and place it over the nut stacks as shown below, lining up the corner and edges.
Make the cut shown as well. Line it up with the flat edge and cut to the depth shown:
7. Fold the black tape over the nut stacks and firmly smooth it into place. Here you can clearly see the shape of it all, how the edge is flat and square and clean. The tape folds almost to the bottom, but not quite. Not a problem, don't worry about this.
8. Now cut the length of black tape to fit as shown. Fold the edges down, then around the corner to make a nice clean install. You can use the flatblade to press it into place and make nice clean edges.
9. We are now going to add weight to the other side to even things out. Using a SINGLE nut, press the Quake Putty into the nuts to fill them and then arrange the nuts and press into place as I've shown in the image below.
In this image, you will note there are two small "stops" against the back wall of the insert where I've placed the 3 nuts. These two "stops" are what hold the green circuit board in place, so be sure yours are below this, as mine are, when you place them in there:
10. Secure the 4th nut into place as shown. This image shows the proper placement of the 4th nut, but after I've replaced the green circuit board. I recommend you put this nut in place, THEN place the green circuit board back in place. You'll note that placement is very important, as are the size of these nuts (measurements given at beginning of tutorial). There are a few places where there are tight clearances, so be deliberate and take your time. This image was snapped before I snugged the 4th nut tightly up to the wall:
11. You can now snap the insert into the cover, and you are finished! Notice how the base still lays perfectly flat, and is perfectly weighted! Makes a HUGE difference in the stability of the base, and over the next 24 hours+ the Quake Putty will harden into place even further (though it's usable immediately)
Also note how the right angle barrel plug just clears that corner at the stress relief point. This is why we don't make a "perfect rectangle" out of that area, we need that corner "cut" to allow the barrel plug to attach correctly.:
Another very verbose tutorial, I know, but I wanted to give plenty of details, as the devil is always in the details!!
I'm very happy with the way this turned out, and it feels like a very high quality item now, FAR more stable than it was without the weights (which is why Ploom likely offers a weighted base...for a bunch of extra money).
You'll note that the unit is very balanced, with 4 "weights" on each side of the unit. Also note that the barrel arch is still 100% clear through to the socket so you can continue to use this base with
my external battery charge mod tutorial.
The cost for this mod is negligible, and even if you don't have the stuff laying around, you can purchase it all for a few bucks tops, spend a few minutes of your spare time, save yourself ~$40 and make your base really stable in the process.
Here's a link to the Quake Putty I used, called "Quake Hold!", it's $4 on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA
Most importantly is, that if for some reason you decide you don't like it, etc, it is 100% REVERSIBLE! There will be no trace if you choose to remove the mod (for what reason I can't imagine, but I felt it was a much better option that glues/epoxies/etc).
All in all I'm really very happy with the way it turned out, and I hope you found this to be helpful and useful.
Peace and kind energy brothers and sisters!
G