Bazinga
Well-Known Member
Box mods use special batteries called 18650 (catchy, right?). I recommend these (on sale right now):
https://liionwholesale.com/collecti...top-wholesale-discount?variant=15414707093598
Or these...
https://www.illumn.com/18650-sony-us18650vtc5a-2600mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html
Shipping for these kinds of batteries is always on the high side but the nature of on demand vapes is such that you need high drain batteries and I've used both of those with great results (just ordered five more HG2 cells actually).
The accessory I recommend is the long and short XL8R stems, probably the grey ones because I think the glass might be a bit thicker judging by the ones I've bought this year. You might get four batteries and pick up a charger for the extra two but I've charged cells right in the rxg3d often and it works fine.
Wattage sends a fixed amount of power to the mesh heater in the Splinter. TC monitors the temperature and sends more power to the heater based on how you're hitting it. It's honestly kinda glorious because wattage and TC have different personalities that are equally rewarding and fun to use. With wattage it's more like here comes the hit and if I draw slowly it's gonna get massive eventually as the heat builds, potentially with a hot spot in the center of the bowl.
TC is less brute force, more refined and ideal for stretching out the flavor hits. With a properly configured rxg3d you can get big fluffy clouds and then remove the stem to see surprisingly light and even avb as you go. Wattage is typically more of a rapid extraction and more high temp, stony effects. Trying lower wattage or a higher TC temp undercuts that generalization and is also very rewarding to try.
At first I always recommend folks get into wattage with their new Splinter because it works really well and is a shorter path to big clouds since the heat builds up the longer you hit.
It's worth mentioning that on demand convection devices like the Splinter reward long, slow to medium speed draws. Imagine hitting something with the draw resistance of your Mighty for ten to fifteen seconds. That's where the most impressive Splinter hits come from.
There's more combustion risk in wattage but everyone knows the healthy range for a given Splinter so if you get a V2 just start around 32 to 36W and monitor the warmth of the vapor during your draw and you'll have no issues.
I included a pic in my previous post of the settings I use for my V2. They'll be different for a ZV2 since the heater is bigger and uses more power.
Finally, the rxg3d supports Arctic Fox and myevic firmware so you can effectively put a new operating system on your mod that has handy settings and a more useful display with the kinds of numbers you'll want to see. I recommend crossing that bridge later once you're comfortable using the Splinter and rxg3d combo in wattage. Once you have TC figured out you can hand it to your wife with the temp at the right place and she'll just hold the fire button when she hits it like she does in wattage.
Bossman - Fantastic explanation. May I assume that TC stands for temperature control? I'm on the Rasta.... website now - they do offer a Splinter V2 without the Z, but your recommendation is what I'm am going to purchase. Thanks for your patience in answering my questions.