ReeferChiefer
Well-Known Member
From my understanding, it helps create a vortex effect. I'm just not sure how much of a significant effect this has as far as capping goes. Seems to me it's virtually the same thing as far as results, not function.
next generation e-nails?
- Thread starter bassplayer
- Start date
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Not quite.
I gave the skinny on this from the guy who designed them a few pages back. Basically, the straight hole is gonna provide quicker vaporization for smaller dabs so long as the carb hole is placed so that it is above where the dab has been placed on the dish. For those who finger carb the carb hole on their cap, the straight hole is better IIRC!
However, the angled hole gives the vortex effect which will be better for larger dabs giving similar function regardless of the placement of cap. I would add that with wicking surfaces (quartz and sapphire halo), one should probably go for the angled hole regardless, since the dab is gonna spread around (exception is if you prefer to finger carb the hole, then the straight hole should be better for your purposes
).
KittensTasteYummy
Member
Not quite.
I gave the skinny on this from the guy who designed them a few pages back. Basically, the straight hole is gonna provide quicker vaporization for smaller dabs so long as the carb hole is placed so that it is above where the dab has been placed on the dish. For those who finger carb the carb hole on their cap, the straight hole is better IIRC!
However, the angled hole gives the vortex effect which will be better for larger dabs giving similar function regardless of the placement of cap. I would add that with wicking surfaces (quartz and sapphire halo), one should probably go for the angled hole regardless, since the dab is gonna spread around (exception is if you prefer to finger carb the hole, then the straight hole should be better for your purposes
Thanks, guess I will see if I can cancel my order, or have D-Nail back order it until angled versions are available again. I might have missed it, but I wish D-Nail specified this on their product page!
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
ReeferChiefer
Well-Known Member
I agree function will be different, however I have a hard time believing it makes a significant difference to the point where it's worth worrying over.Not quite.
I gave the skinny on this from the guy who designed them a few pages back. Basically, the straight hole is gonna provide quicker vaporization for smaller dabs so long as the carb hole is placed so that it is above where the dab has been placed on the dish. For those who finger carb the carb hole on their cap, the straight hole is better IIRC!
However, the angled hole gives the vortex effect which will be better for larger dabs giving similar function regardless of the placement of cap. I would add that with wicking surfaces (quartz and sapphire halo), one should probably go for the angled hole regardless, since the dab is gonna spread around (exception is if you prefer to finger carb the hole, then the straight hole should be better for your purposes
KittensTasteYummy
Member
Glad to help
I take it you like bigger dabs or have a quartz halo?
I take bigger dabs from time to time (when I wake up in a ton of pain or am nauseous and have very little time to deal with several small dabs). I only have the SiC at the moment but I'm planning on getting a Sapphire insert at some point.
MileHighLife
Blower of glass, grower of grass
D-Nail will take care of you if you decide you want an angled hole cap.
KittensTasteYummy
Member
I'm sure! They have already been awesome!
I would have avoided many of my problems if the various enail/dnail companies didn't have to try and be secret about everything or mainly market to ignorant people. For those of us who have taken the time to learn, or have similar professional knowledge, this trend of only publishing vague details and specifics is quite frustrating!
KittensTasteYummy
Member
Yeah, they shipped same day as order. I'm going to have to decide to either send back and wait on angled or just keep.
fatty_tattoos
CBD Addict
Problem:
You try this dude? got my dish, sapphire and carb cap (angled hole, nice HE finish) all form him and it was at my doorstep 2 days after ordering. Gave me a fatty discount too, hit em up
Possible solution:
You try this dude? got my dish, sapphire and carb cap (angled hole, nice HE finish) all form him and it was at my doorstep 2 days after ordering. Gave me a fatty discount too, hit em up
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Hi all,
Had some news from the good folks at D-nail.
In their own words and without beating around the bush:
"We are happy to exchange a "Straight Hole" cap (if thoroughly cleaned well) for the "Angle Hole" cap absolutely Free of Charge. All we ask is that the individual pay First Class Shipping (estimated $2.50) to get the "Straight Hole" cap back to us."
For contact details head over to their website at www.d-nail.com
Hope this helps you especially @KittensTasteYummy and everyone else!
Had some news from the good folks at D-nail.
In their own words and without beating around the bush:
"We are happy to exchange a "Straight Hole" cap (if thoroughly cleaned well) for the "Angle Hole" cap absolutely Free of Charge. All we ask is that the individual pay First Class Shipping (estimated $2.50) to get the "Straight Hole" cap back to us."
For contact details head over to their website at www.d-nail.com
Hope this helps you especially @KittensTasteYummy and everyone else!
OK, I got my next order from CCA in to get to the bottom of the carb cap situation. The New Storm cell cap DOES have interchangeable dab tips that can either screw onto the back of the tool Or it can go on the cap side for a "cap and dab" method. It now locks onto both the 16mm and 20mm version. It still has the 2 angled carb holes for really great dish clearing. This cap just gets better and better!
I also tried the Honey Hole cap that also comes with a few interchangeable tips that go on the cap side. This thing is a really cool idea. The draw is a little restrictive but I actually like it better for small dabs. it really clouded the bong up when capped. The handle is shorter but thicker and feels nice in the hand. It does get VERY hot if you leave it on the hot nail of course so either take it off in between hits or put a little silicone sleeve over the end. I spoke to Josh about maybe adding this to the setup so we don't burn our fingers if we decide to leave the cap on the nail for an hour which I do a lot lol. I'll post some more pics later.
If anyone has any particular questions about any of these or the Liger V2.0 or Zeus nails let me know. I have been running 2 enails at a time to play with these! Running a 16mm with quartz and a 20mm with SiC head to Head here!
I also tried the Honey Hole cap that also comes with a few interchangeable tips that go on the cap side. This thing is a really cool idea. The draw is a little restrictive but I actually like it better for small dabs. it really clouded the bong up when capped. The handle is shorter but thicker and feels nice in the hand. It does get VERY hot if you leave it on the hot nail of course so either take it off in between hits or put a little silicone sleeve over the end. I spoke to Josh about maybe adding this to the setup so we don't burn our fingers if we decide to leave the cap on the nail for an hour which I do a lot lol. I'll post some more pics later.
If anyone has any particular questions about any of these or the Liger V2.0 or Zeus nails let me know. I have been running 2 enails at a time to play with these! Running a 16mm with quartz and a 20mm with SiC head to Head here!
ReeferChiefer
Well-Known Member
I have a question about the "cap and dab" method. How long does it take for the oil to start vaporizing after letting it sit on the nail? Or really, overall, would you prefer that method over just dabbing it yourself and then capping? I'm struggling on whether or not to get this dabber or just use what I already have. I am looking forward to finally having a cap that fits perfectly for once, but not sure if it's worth the money. Thanks.OK, I got my next order from CCA in to get to the bottom of the carb cap situation. The New Storm cell cap DOES have interchangeable dab tips that can either screw onto the back of the tool Or it can go on the cap side for a "cap and dab" method. It now locks onto both the 16mm and 20mm version. It still has the 2 angled carb holes for really great dish clearing. This cap just gets better and better!
I also tried the Honey Hole cap that also comes with a few interchangeable tips that go on the cap side. This thing is a really cool idea. The draw is a little restrictive but I actually like it better for small dabs. it really clouded the bong up when capped. The handle is shorter but thicker and feels nice in the hand. It does get VERY hot if you leave it on the hot nail of course so either take it off in between hits or put a little silicone sleeve over the end. I spoke to Josh about maybe adding this to the setup so we don't burn our fingers if we decide to leave the cap on the nail for an hour which I do a lot lol. I'll post some more pics later.
If anyone has any particular questions about any of these or the Liger V2.0 or Zeus nails let me know. I have been running 2 enails at a time to play with these! Running a 16mm with quartz and a 20mm with SiC head to Head here!
Also, got any videos you could share?
My preferred method totally depends on the concentrate I am using. I get a big variety, right now I have a really soft wax, some clear, and some of the purest rock hard shatter I have ever had. The shatter is so stable I just snap a small shard off and drop it in by hand lately, no tool needed. The wax and clear I do prefer using the tool under the cap "cap and dab", the soft concentrates drop quickly from the tip or I just touch the side and slide it over.
If I use it with hard shatter I like to get a small dab and just have it hanging by a thread on the end of the dab tool when doing the cap and dab method. Otherwise you could really just touch the side wall to dab it and then cap it by sliding it over. Otherwise you are pretty much guessing when it will drop if your concentrate is extremely hard like some of mine. If you do just cap it and wait for it to drop you won't lose anything if you hit it a second later, it's already capped.
If I had to choose one of the other I would stick with the Storm Cell cap but the Honey hole is a really cool idea and may be my go-to on my smaller rig with the 16mm Liger. The tips that come with the storm cell are really great and make it totally worth the upgrade! I'm using the Split fork and the cookie cutter the most so far!! I'll post a few more pics tonight and try to get a video showing how the cap works for you.
BoogerMan
Well-Known Member
I finally got around to writing up a few things. Got my HighFive e-nail in! I love the graphic! I got pillars of creation and it is some very clever artwork! The red plane PID isn't very attractive IMO. The Omron obviously looks way better but is also more expensive. I wish I could change the red on the HighFive PID to white or blue or green. Oh well, it's not the end of the world
Anyways, the 710 whip ceramic nails do not fit with the Gimido or HighFive e-nail flat coils from my experience. I have both the 710 ceramic nails with and without the slit (I believe the newest design is the one with the slit), and both seem to be the exact same size. Unless 710 whip changed the design since early 2015 (when in purchased these nails IIRC), I think the threads right under the dish are just too large to fit through for most flat coils. Neither nails fit either flat coil I have. Here are some pics. The Gimido center hole is slightly smaller than the HighFive.
Gimido coil on top, HighFive on bottom.
Gimido coil
HighFive coil
My Gimido e-nail has the Omron LCD PID and the HighFive has the standard cheap red PID.
I still need to make some rosin and dab to see temp drop difference, but so far I was able to compare heat up times.
I set both e-nails to 680F. The Gimido steadily increased to 680F and it never went over 680F. The HighFive increased at a quicker rate and went to about 700F (the Gimido was at about 600F at this time). The HighFive then dropped down to 680F at about the same time the Gimido reached 680F.
So heat up time is about the same. Obviously the Omron PID is much more accurate since it did not overshoot the set temp. I'm sure the Omron will have less temp drop during hits, but honestly, if you don't glob, I think the cheap standard PIDs work very well
Also, one last note, the Omron PID sits at 680F and never fluctuates when not in use (okay maybe I shouldn't say never because I have seen it drop down to 679F before - probably from an air draft - but anyways it basically always sits at the set temp). However the HighFive fluctuates between 678-682F. Just helps show the accuracy of the Omron PID once again.
EDIT:
Made some rosin. Took small dabs on each nail. Maybe 0.02g size dabs. Both dropped down to 675F. I'm guessing this temp drop is more from the 70F cold carb cab and not the dab since temp only starts to drop after I cap the nail.
In conclusion, cheap e-nails seem to work just as fine for me as more expensive e-nails.
Hope this helps
EDIT 2:
I realized Quartz doesn't hold its heat as well as SiC so comparing the Quartz halo on the Gimido to the SiC on the HighFive isn't very accurate. I bet if I swap the 2 I would get an even more stable Gimido and a less stable HighFive.
Anyways, the 710 whip ceramic nails do not fit with the Gimido or HighFive e-nail flat coils from my experience. I have both the 710 ceramic nails with and without the slit (I believe the newest design is the one with the slit), and both seem to be the exact same size. Unless 710 whip changed the design since early 2015 (when in purchased these nails IIRC), I think the threads right under the dish are just too large to fit through for most flat coils. Neither nails fit either flat coil I have. Here are some pics. The Gimido center hole is slightly smaller than the HighFive.
Gimido coil on top, HighFive on bottom.
Gimido coil
HighFive coil
My Gimido e-nail has the Omron LCD PID and the HighFive has the standard cheap red PID.
I still need to make some rosin and dab to see temp drop difference, but so far I was able to compare heat up times.
I set both e-nails to 680F. The Gimido steadily increased to 680F and it never went over 680F. The HighFive increased at a quicker rate and went to about 700F (the Gimido was at about 600F at this time). The HighFive then dropped down to 680F at about the same time the Gimido reached 680F.
So heat up time is about the same. Obviously the Omron PID is much more accurate since it did not overshoot the set temp. I'm sure the Omron will have less temp drop during hits, but honestly, if you don't glob, I think the cheap standard PIDs work very well
Also, one last note, the Omron PID sits at 680F and never fluctuates when not in use (okay maybe I shouldn't say never because I have seen it drop down to 679F before - probably from an air draft - but anyways it basically always sits at the set temp). However the HighFive fluctuates between 678-682F. Just helps show the accuracy of the Omron PID once again.
EDIT:
Made some rosin. Took small dabs on each nail. Maybe 0.02g size dabs. Both dropped down to 675F. I'm guessing this temp drop is more from the 70F cold carb cab and not the dab since temp only starts to drop after I cap the nail.
In conclusion, cheap e-nails seem to work just as fine for me as more expensive e-nails.
Hope this helps
EDIT 2:
I realized Quartz doesn't hold its heat as well as SiC so comparing the Quartz halo on the Gimido to the SiC on the HighFive isn't very accurate. I bet if I swap the 2 I would get an even more stable Gimido and a less stable HighFive.
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fatty_tattoos
CBD Addict
Duuuuude. It's awful, I feel your pain.
Just got back from CO and my slimline arrived while I was gone. Obviously I was super stoked and immediately cleaned the ti and set up errythang. Noticed a super awful smell as it was heating up-not from the coil as I had heated it previously to 950 to burn off anything that we on there before I put it on the new base/Quartz halo. Thinking cleaning it would help rid the smell, I turned the nail up to 950 for 20 min. Turned it back down to 650 and the smell returned. Cleaned again @ 950 for 40 additional and turned back down to 650. Smell was gone but the locking nut that attaches the halo to the slim was a scary looking gold-never seen anything oxidize gold before... But thought hey, this is my first d-nail maybe the ti is diff so thought since the smell was gone I figured I was clear to dab away. Tried a small one, tasted like ish. Tried bigger, still awful. Turned down temps-same strangely metallic/shoe
Polish-esque flavor......really hoping I'm doing something stupid and someone can help.
BoogerMan
Well-Known Member
Gold/Brown is one of the first colors Ti changes to, so you are all good there
http://www.valhallaarms.com/wyvern/titanium/anodizing.htm
I have been using the slim line for a little while now and I don't notice a weird smell or taste at all. Maybe I'm used to it? Even if I smell right by the metal, I don't notice any strange smell. My drop downs stay wayyyy cooler compared to the old larger bases too so I am actually liking the slim line quite a bit. I think they look sexier too
Maybe the new batches are different than the batch I got?
KittensTasteYummy
Member
I just commented on this in the SiC thread. I absolutely, 100% agree! I've cleaned everything multi x's but am still getting a burnt rubber or burning tire smell that's so strong it's all you can smell in the room!
Update: I emailed D-Nail concerning this issue. I pointed out that I wasn't the only person with this problem (I shared the info from here with them) and that it doesn't seem to be affecting people with older SlimSeries bases, only new ones.
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KittensTasteYummy
Member
This is what's causing me to debate my next actions as I'm thinking the same thing.
D-Nail already shipped the straight carb version but just told me that as long as I absolutely do not use it, they would pay return shipping to provide me with the angled version if that's what I want (no word yet on current backorder timeframe though). If I don't have to wait a long time to get it, that's great news!
On the other hand, assuming they still plan to release the Ceramic version of their carb cap in the near future, I would be buying that immediately! In that case keeping the incorrect straight angled Ti carb for a bit isn't really a big deal and won't be worth the hassle of returning/swapping to the angled version.
rolln_j
Well-Known Member
@KittensTasteYummy @fatty_tattoos
sucks to hear that others are having the same shit smell issue with the slimline - but at the same time I at least feel vindicated
I stopped using mine and went back to the 1.3 nail - no bad smell whatsoever
i sent d-nail a long email re: all my issues with the slim line - they made a bunch of excuses and basically told me to kick rocks
so Ill be kicking them rocks over to other companies from here out
sucks to hear that others are having the same shit smell issue with the slimline - but at the same time I at least feel vindicated
I stopped using mine and went back to the 1.3 nail - no bad smell whatsoever
i sent d-nail a long email re: all my issues with the slim line - they made a bunch of excuses and basically told me to kick rocks
so Ill be kicking them rocks over to other companies from here out
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
I've owned 2 slim series bases for ages (one old, one new, different batches) and never had this reportedly pervasive issue being described above? I am not saying you guys are lying of course.
Only time I ever had a weird burning rubber smell was a trail of unboiled oil that had sat on the nail trailing for way too long back when I was using my infiniti with sapphire insert and had not dialled in the temp (way too low temp to fully boil!). Smelt exactly like burning rubber. Degradation byproducts smell hideous after earl has sat nucleating and partially boiling on a hot but not quite hot enough surface for too long! Same thing happens when you way overpurge a solvent extract, disgusting tastes will be had!
I will say that if I get some residue onto the ti locking nut (only when I'm so vaked that my dabber hand is too wobbly to aim into the generously oversized dish lol) and don't notice and clean it, a nasty burning smell like you guys describe will eventually waft off until I clean it thoroughly. I wonder if this may have happened in some of the cases being reported? Still, this is not necessarily the case!
Either way, I really love the slim series bases I've used; keeps heat off glass to the point that I don't do dropdowns anymore. The slim series bases I have may or may not have been sequential production runs, there were a couple of months between my orders.
The infiniti was conducting heat onto glass wayyy too much by comparison and I've not used one since! I hope we can get to the bottom of what you guys are describing though!
Only time I ever had a weird burning rubber smell was a trail of unboiled oil that had sat on the nail trailing for way too long back when I was using my infiniti with sapphire insert and had not dialled in the temp (way too low temp to fully boil!). Smelt exactly like burning rubber. Degradation byproducts smell hideous after earl has sat nucleating and partially boiling on a hot but not quite hot enough surface for too long! Same thing happens when you way overpurge a solvent extract, disgusting tastes will be had!
I will say that if I get some residue onto the ti locking nut (only when I'm so vaked that my dabber hand is too wobbly to aim into the generously oversized dish lol) and don't notice and clean it, a nasty burning smell like you guys describe will eventually waft off until I clean it thoroughly. I wonder if this may have happened in some of the cases being reported? Still, this is not necessarily the case!
Either way, I really love the slim series bases I've used; keeps heat off glass to the point that I don't do dropdowns anymore. The slim series bases I have may or may not have been sequential production runs, there were a couple of months between my orders.
The infiniti was conducting heat onto glass wayyy too much by comparison and I've not used one since! I hope we can get to the bottom of what you guys are describing though!
KittensTasteYummy
Member
@rolln_j
You are not giving me much confidence that this is going to be resolved. I hope that very soon, enough other people like you and I will have contacted and complained to D-Nail, forcing them to fix the issue.
@herbivore21
I cleaned everything thoroughly (including the Ti locking nut) and still the problem persists. I hope a simple solution like this turns out to be the cause and that there is an easy fix, but I've not found one so far. Otherwise, I enjoy the Slim Series and have no other complaints.
You are not giving me much confidence that this is going to be resolved. I hope that very soon, enough other people like you and I will have contacted and complained to D-Nail, forcing them to fix the issue.
@herbivore21
I cleaned everything thoroughly (including the Ti locking nut) and still the problem persists. I hope a simple solution like this turns out to be the cause and that there is an easy fix, but I've not found one so far. Otherwise, I enjoy the Slim Series and have no other complaints.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
have you tried to take your coil out of the equation and torch dab a few times? Is this only with heater coils? Coils can stink to a vile extent just from the oils on our hands getting onto them and cooking off while heating.
Wait you were saying you were torching only IIRC?
If you were torching a thoroughly cleaned nail (oh I should check did you torch the heatsink inner tube hard as hell and scrub inside to get any solid carbon residue out?) I do think it seems likely that something is up with a certain number of bases?
ReggieB
Well-Known Member
@BoogerMan from what you've said it seems to me that it doesn't really matter much what material the nail is, just the size of the dab and the ability of the coil to provide enough heat, with that in mind, how quickly did each coil recover to pre-dab temps? What wattage is each coil?
BoogerMan
Well-Known Member
I think the material would matter though because if one holds its heat better than the other then wouldn't there be less temp drop which would also allow for the coil to not have to work as hard/fast to get back up to temp?
Recover to pre-dab temps? Not sure what you mean here. Do you mean recover from post-dab temp drops?
The Gimido is 100w and the HighFive is 120w
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